3D printing forums

I added a compatible Ultimaker S3/S5/S7 profile for PrusaSlicer On the PrusaSlicer profile settingsrepo: https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer-settings/tree/master/live/Ultimaker Implementation details: https://ansonliu.com/2024/04/ultimaker-s3-s5-s7-prusaslicer-profile/

Starting with Cura 5.0 the "QT Controls" dialog boxes, settings boxes, buttons, etc. that Cura uses went to a different QT version.  That Qidiprint plugin looks like it hasn't been updated in 4 years so the settings it tries to add aren't working and that causes an error. If you want to print via a network you would probably need to research whether OctoPrint is an option.  There is a Cura plugin but it also requires it's own hardware (usually a Raspberry PI board).    

The seam is a function of FDM printing.  There will be a point on the outer wall where the nozzle starts to extrude it.  The Nozzle travels around extruding the outer wall, and then ends right where it started.  Those starts and ends are what makes the seam visible.   There is an Inner-Wall seam, a Support seam, an Infill Seam, a Prime Tower seam, and a Support Interface seam.  Even an "Ooze Shield" would have a seam.  Only the Outer Wall seam is displayed because it's the only one visible on a finished print.  The preview would get kind of cluttered if they were all shown.        

Dont know why, other can see it..  hmmm   anyway, I followed advice from monroe7 and used a solder iron to melt the mess little-by-little until it was gone.  turns out the only thing the plastic was adhered to was the silicon membrane so it only took 15 minutes or so to clear it. Now I gotta remember how to put a new membrane in it  🙂  

I'll just post a quick update, maybe it's useful for someone in the future :).    The replacement parts just came in this week and I replaced the side panels. I initially also wanted to replace the top metal panel too, but the damage didn't seem to be too important for the structural integrity, so I decided to repair it instead.    Very important: The front glass door is basically only held in place by the side panels, if you remove one it can easily fall out (and break, that's an expensive part), so I highly suggest to hold it in place with some tape. It is hold in place a little by the magnets that hold the door shut, but I wouldn't rely on that when working on the station. Also if you have no experience with repairing or at least maintaining printers, I wouldn't recommend touching that thing.   To begin with, unload all materials from the station, disconnect it from power and remove the printer so you have the bare station in front of you. Place it somewhere you have some space to work and cover the area with a cardboard-sheet or something soft so nothing gets scratched.    Carefully lay the station on its side, so the left panel faces up (be careful, it's quite heavy as you may have noticed). The left panel is straight forward to replace, just unscrew all bolts and lift the panel off. It might come of a little hare since the back part has some tight fit. There are bolts in different lengths used, I did just mark directly on the panel with tape where which length was used.    I didn't take too many pictures with the left panel removed, because it wasn't that spectacular. The antenna of the NFC-reader is probably the most exiting thing:      The right panel is a little more tricky, since there's the end-stop and dampening for the front door attached. Also remember to have the door secured. The two bottom holes that aren't present on the left panel hold the door dampening:   To prevent everything from falling apart, remove all bolts that hold the right panel in place. Leave the bolts from the dampening assembly in place but loosen the screws a little (if you unscrew them completely by now the assembly will fall into the station and you'll have to rescue it.    Carefully lift the panel up but leave it roughly in place, you can spot what's going on under there:   The assembly should have around 2-3mm space so you can proceed.   You can then carefully (somehow everything has to be done carefully here :D), rotate the loose panel around the axis of the dampening arm until you can reach into the gap to hold the dampening assembly. If there's a resistance feelable you may have to loosen the bolts a little more. In theory you can completely remove the bold heading to the back without it falling apart but I didn't have a good feeling having it just flapping around on one bolt while moving the panel.    You can then remove the back-heading bolt, supporting the plastic piece with your hand and dislodge the metal arm so the panel becomes free.   The panel can then be removed and the dampening-assembly unscrewed to transplant it to the new panel. To reattach the panel just do the above steps in reverse.    Since the top panel was also damaged I had to do some additional steps (before reattaching the side panel): First removing the black top, it wasn't super-obvious to me first, there are two bolts on the top you have to unscrew, them the cover can be lifted upwards and be slided out the slots in the back to remove it (if you also have to do that, I'll remove the top before the side panel).   The damaged part on the top panel was a threaded stand-off (the front right one) that broke away. To access that area the plastic part that holds the LED lighting and the retention levers (or how these are called) that hold the spools in place had to be removed. It's pretty easy, you have to remove five screws, four directly hold the plastic assembly, the central one also holds the magnetic sensor that detects if the door was opened. When removing that part take care for the LED-lighting wiring, since it's hooked into the metal panel.   The "sealings" for the door do also have to be removed, they are just clipped in: (the picture is taken during reassembly) In case you forget that, they will just fall off (oops).   To repair the standoff, I quickly designed a small block (11x30x5mm) with a hole for an M3 treaded insert and printed it as a solid ABS part on my UM2 Go.  Looked like this when done and the insert molten in:    I did then straighten the bent metal part of the panel, roughed up the printed ABS-part and the metal and epoxyed the thing in place: (not sure why one of the pictures is upside down)   After fully dried:   After the epoxy fully dried, I reassembled everything back in place.   Next I moved on to removing the bottom panel to invenstigate the remaining internals I haven't inspected yet. I placed the fully assembled station upside down, be careful doing so, since the handle sticks slightly wider up than the top of the station (or probably just straight even, but I didn't want the station stand on that), so I placed it at the edge of my table. Before proceeding it's very important so secure the door, since we are manipulating both side panels that hold the door.  To remove the bottom panel, the bottom most bolts on both side panels have to be removed and for better accessibility the four bolts one row above have to be loosened a little so the panels can be slightly loosened to remove the bottom, it's held in place by slots in the back and these studs on the side.  Here are some pictures from the inside:   Since everything was in place, properly secured and intact I reattached the bottom. Here's how it looks with the new panels:    And the broken ones 🫠:    Lastly I assembled the printer-setup back together and it looks nice again now 😀: (the small bottom dresser fits so perfectly, it nearly appears to be an OEM part 😅)   Became a little long for a quick update but maybe it helps someone in the future or is at least interesting to someone 🙂