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  2. I don't have access to a SnapMaker A350, so I cannot help you with the values to use, but I can help you with the what to meassure. The X min value is the horizontal distance between the left side of the printhead and the tip of the nozzle. The Y min value is the horizontal distance between the front of the printhead and the tip of the nozzle. The X max value is the horizontal distance between the right side of the printhead and the tip of the nozzle. The Y max value is the horizontal distance between the rear of the printhead and the tip of the nozzle. The gantry height is the vertical distance between the buildplate and the bottom of the horizontal extrusion the head moves over when the nozzle touches the buildplate. Each of these 5 values is only used when you print in "one at a time" mode. If you don't use that mode, the values you enter here are not critical.
  3. "OpenGL 1.1" suggests that even though you may have tried to install a driver for your Radeon card, the one that is used by Windows is the "Microsoft VGA driver". This is the fallback driver that Windows uses if no driver is found to run a video card so it can at least display something. So either the driver you downloaded was not successfully installed, or something is preventing the driver from starting/running. Note that this affects the performance of your system greatly, because that touches the display is now done in software instead of using the hardware of the graphics card you have. Not just Cura, but everything including Explorer windows, your browser, etc.
  4. Today
  5. Sounds like you have bigger trouble with your system. What combination of AV/Firewall is installed at your system? Are you sure you have all updates for your Win10 (64bit?) installation too? Take a look at your device manager and check if the driver was updated (my guess is no) and wether you have in addition other device driver problems too. You can deactivate the firewall for installation. Usually this isn't necessary to do. Maybe disconnect your computer from internet/network before doing this. By the way I did my update two day's ago and don't had any issue. I don't use an external AV/Firewall since years as the build in one is good enough for me. Good luck
  6. question, are you putting it in a autoclave to cure? or what resins are you using? ive got a cousin who works in formula 1 and I know the processes in making car parts. ive seen a autoclave that a whole car can go into and a door that thicker than a bank vault..
  7. A note on another cause of electromagnetic interference--if your front fan cable gets pinched it can cause interference that makes your active leveling fail. Unplug the white and black fan cable and try running your active leveling again. If it works fine you need a new front fan.
  8. Im an IS Admin of 20+ years, but bran new to the world of 3d printing, developing etc. Unfortunately because of the time limitations placed upon me by my job and family, learning this has come VERY slowly. I have the monoprice MP Mini Select that I bought 2nd hand and printed 2 items and immediately jammed up the head. Last week my son and I assembled an ANET A8 that seems to be working awesome. But Im limited to printing what others have created n(not that that wouldn't keep me busy for a decade). But I know thwew is so much more.that I need to learn. For example I found a small 'laptop case' created by someone and posted on thingiverse.com, could work exactly for wha my next project needs. BUT I need to learn some basics, for example, I can estimate how big it is, but how can I determine that, for example the piece from the left corner to the center is 4inches long? Or if something is 6inches long but I need it 7 how do I do it? I thought that if I learned 'sketchup' it would be what i need, but now it looks like most of what I want to do is done in CURA and i cant find a book on CURA anywhere? any and all ideas appreciated. and dont be afraid to say "HEY its easier if you use XYZ instead of what youre using," Thankd J
  9. Yesterday
  10. steps/mm is changed permanently on the printer, not normally in the slicer. Ask someone else who had to change steps/mm for your particular printer - maybe on the "anycubic" message board (if there is such a thing). There is also a way to change it possibly through gcodes. If so then add the M500 gcode which saves settings for after power cycle. But typically you do it in the menu system on the printer.
  11. I'm trying to setup a custom machine for my SnapMaker A350. I haven't been able to figure out what values to use for "Printhead Settings", and haven't found any documentation on them.
  12. One of the best implementations ( now feature ) in CURA. On the subject, this infill provides the best strength and tensile distribution in tricky printed parts. Larger and denser ABS prints specifically benefit from Gyroid infill as the internal and external material tensions are evenly distributed helping to reduce the ABS distortion during cooling. And yes, Gyroids are phenomenal beauty edging towards organic patterns.
  13. Update: tried driver from December one newest from this month. No change. Even did the program that examines video card and recommends which driver, same as listed above. I shut OFF. Firewall thinking that’s why 2020 adrenaline (?) can’t see internet grrrr. NOPE. then I saw someplace on web vid card good for win7. I know I could do updates with the video card driver just prior to doing the windows 1909 update three days ago grrrr. And also when I do DXD IAG and it tells me which version of open GL I have it still says 1.1. Grrr.
  14. I've given up on the material station! When I went back to the "old" S5 set up, the PVA material loaded without any issues! I think the material station is a good concept, but not ready for the real world! On a side note. I primarily print PLA. What are my options for other support materials besides PVA?
  15. Woah! What the hell - it didn't even get close. I'm wondering if your z steps go messed up somehow or it thinks you have a smaller printer (an S3?)
  16. I recently purchased Anycubic Predator D. After three print totaling around 100 hours, my Titan extruder started to skip. Nomatter how tight I would make it, it still skipped and thined out the filament ouput. I purchased a BodTech dual extruder upgrade kit for creality CR-10S. I have not been able to and do not know how to get into the Ultimaker Cura 4.41 gcodes to change the steps. I know I can do it in Simplify3D but not in Cura. Can anyone help me in this situation?
  17. Hello, I'm having the same issue in cura 4.4.1. Support is bing generated on top of my model. There really is no reason for this. Is this a new issue or was the patch delayed? (I'm using Cura's new Engineering Intent profile) Thanks, Barry
  18. Hi, Hello to all I am following an older tutorial for printing 3D models that " expose Gyroid infill ". The print ends up with completely visible and open gyroid. The tutorial was done on an early and " especial artistic " version of Slic3r PE. Slicers, including CURA add a ... cap or special wall to outermost faces of Gyroid infill to help the adhesion of them to the walls of the prints for strength and unification of the infill and walls. Well, those .. caps or special walls ruin the look of Gyroid infill if we want to present them for artistic effects. As I mentioned the Slic3r community posted a special branch of their favourite slicer " as artistic version ". See it here: ( fast forward to 11:57 ) This feature never turn to be official within Slic3r, Slic3r PE ( now Prusa Slicer ) and believe you me, I had asked and begged over there to no avail. But why I am asking this in Ultimaker-CURA !? Well, I was excited to see that CURA ( 4.4.1 Mac ) does this out of the box BUT, unfortunately the generated g-code is not what we see in the CURA's preview. The final 3D print has that ... cap or wall covering the outermost faces partially. Here are my settings: - Layer Height: 0.644 ( very large model on Delta printer ) - Wall Thickness : 0 ( zero ) - Bottom Layer: 1 ( to be able to lift it off the bed - didn't make any difference setting this to zero ) - Infill : 10% - Gyroid Am I missing something? If the preview of CURA is displaying the " actual gcode ", then why there are these caps ( half walls ) on the faces of the final print that where not displayed? Is there any way to remove those Gyroid caps? Please let me know if you need to see the actual image of gcode preview and final print with capped Gyroids
  19. donde puedo conseguir los plugins para solidwords en la versión 4.4.1
  20. Looks like, I have to contact my reseller Conrad Electronic in Germany.
  21. Watch your PVA as it is loading to see where it stops. I had same problem and found that a piece of PVA had broken off just before and inside the extruder. Likely this happened at the end of the print when material station was retracting filament. The new mostly full roll of UM PVA in material station for a few days was now very brittle, and would snap off when I tried to straighten the end by hand before re-inserting. I have my suspicions that the brittle PVA is due to being too dry, and this may be an issue in places where humidity is very low naturally in winter and may be made worse by the material station. No proof yet. I believe UM PVA that absorbs moisture gets soft and flexible, Not brittle. More drying may not be your solution if you too are having brittle PVA issues. Not yet sure what the best plan is to soften brittle PVA without going too far. I may have to leave my material station door open in Winter.
  22. Hi, I have checked the cables and plugged them out and back in again. Here are some pictures... No change... 😔 Link
  23. It would be nice if we can print this on the S5 without needing MJF or SLS printed parts. But I think we should be able to print this with those stronger filaments out there these days, don't you think? I would really love to see your fusion 360 files. I want to experiment with them and report back. Thanks in advance
  24. What's the error? Any more info?
  25. Is there any progress? We are also struggling with this issue. Sometime even prints sent by network do not appear in print list (although they are printed). Till then, maybe there is a workaround? Like sending a http-request to printer to stop whatever it is doing? The S5 is not very cheap and mainly sold to business users. It's annoying that you cannot stop the printer from the network/home in some cases. We think about buying an IP-socket (120$ and more) because the software of printer shows the bugs mentioned. This should not be workaround intended. It's not a secret that printers fail and often need to print for days. So there should be a reliable (!) solution for aborting a print on a 6500$ machine remotely. No matter whether the print was started via USB or network. Even with network printing, the jobs sometimes don't show up in Cura Connect. Please fix this! Thanks in advance 🙂
  26. Maybe I’m missing something obvious? i have the printer set to Ultimaker S5 and the model is a benchie. We select gyroid infill using Ultimaker Tough PLA. When we slice, we get an error with the profile? Brand new CURA install on a new machine Help. 🙂
  27. Hi I'm sure there is a way to force the filament through manually. The gotcha is that the firmware will not realize the material is loaded ( or it will treat it as an error). Either way you have a failure. Despite the filament being new, I'd try drying it out. I happen to like vacuum dryers, but there are lots of ways to get the job done. Without knowing just what's failing in the load, there isn't much else I can guess as being a fix ( feeder tension would be the next thing on the list ...). Bob
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