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  2. To see the brim make sure you are in color scheme "line type" and make sure "helpers" checkbox is checked. As far as extrusion - this is a complicated issue and feeder issues can look like nozzle clogs - it's hard to tell the difference. Ask people about your printer on a forum for your particular printer (or on facebook, or reddit). For example Prusa printers have their own forum. Ultimaker printers have this forum.
  3. Vertical slots or horizontal slots? If they are horizontal slots you can play with the "horizontal expansion" parameter and set that to a negative value. Also make sure the slots are visible in cura preview before printing anything. If the slots are on the bottom layer this is the hardest layer to control to that precision. You will need to mess with the "initial layer horizontal expansion" and level the machine extremely carefully (to 0.02mm accuracy potentially which is very difficult). But it is possible to create 0.1mm slots. Showing us a picture of your model may help us understand better.
  4. Bonjour tout le monde, Pour la même personne à qui je dois réparer son UM2+, j'ai regardé son UM3 et je n'arrive pas à calibrer le plateau. Quand je fais le calibrage manuel, le milieu semble ok, mais dés que j'arrive à l'étape de droite puis gauche, la buse touche le plateau, sans rien avoir fait. J'ai serré à fond les vis. Quand je fais le calibrage automatique, je vois que le plateau force sur la deuxième buse (BB) au point à la faire rentrer vers la tête (heureusement qu'il y a un ressort dans le compartiment). Je ne comprends pas ce qu'il se passe. Et la machine m'indique l'erreur 22, quand je l'ai laissée faire. C'est déjà pas normal que je n'arrive pas calibrer manuellement ! Le plateau ne semble pas bombé, je ne comprends pas.
  5. When you already have cleaned your nozzle, but still have extrusion issues, then I guess there is something wrong with the feeder. Check if the filament is needed properly or if the gears in the feeder slips and don't push the filament forward. Another possibility is, that your filament is tangled on the spool and cannot be unwinded during printing. Which printer do you have? Regarding the brim, I have currently no idea, but it can help to upload the Cura project file here. Save it as project, then we have all the settings you use.
  6. Often these are only very small openings which are almost invisible to the naked eye.
  7. You have to design the slots bigger, maybe 0.4 or 0.5, you have to try it. The slots behave like holes in an object, they also become smaller when printing.
  8. Hi, I'm new to 3D printing and I'm struggling to complete some pretty basic jobs. I printed some sample holders (10 of them) in about 5 hours which went well yesterday. I did an overnight print for a pipette holder but it only got halfway through, the printer head was still moving but no plastic was being ejected. I aborted the print and went to clean the nozzle for any blockages using a cold pull method. I've tried to reprint the sample holders today after cleaning the nozzle but the plastic is not ejecting. Has anyone got any advice for this please? Bear in mind I'm new (and a little frustrated!) so advice needs to be idiot proof! Secondly, the sample holders have a brim around them which appeared yesterday on print preview mode in ultimaker cura but now that brim is not appearing around my models anymore. Whenever I change the brim settings it just seems to show a border around the build plate not my models. Any help would be greatly appreciated, these sample holders are important for an upcoming experiment. Thanks
  9. Thank's I thought that might be the case. Prints seem solid enough so I'll not be too concerned about it.
  10. Today
  11. L’ennui, c'est que si je tire trop fort, je risque d'arracher les fils de la sonde et je vais bien me faire chier pour la retirer ! Je ne vais quand même pas remplacer tout, à savoir le bloc en laiton, la résistance et la sonde, si ?
  12. It has nothing do to with CPE and can happen with all materials. Due to the printing process you cannot be 100% sure that you have a watertight object. You can use more perimeters, print slower and hotter to ensure you get a good layer bonding. But a very small area of i.e. under extrusion can be enough to be not watertight.
  13. Well, at least that lessens the chance that other people get scammed.
  14. I need help with making slots of 200 microns in a recangular block (10 X 5 or 10 X 10 mm2). i designed stuff with autodesk and started printing but the print that i got from machine has no slots on them. also i am using the material called ASA which is slightly differnet than ABS. I would be thankful any direction or help. Thank You, Siddharth
  15. I noticed that after soaking some CPE prints in water to remove PVA they are taking water into the infill. I only really noticed when I blew them off with compressed air. Is this normal?
  16. The more you know, the faster you would understand the motivations behind such a decision. Users are not able to disable active leveling because of the size of the build plate in the Ultimaker S5. On previous generations you could do it manually, but this was a more forgiving process due to the build plates being smaller. With the larger build volume users may want to print larger objects, which require even longer unattended operations. With the expanded material portfolio, users are now also able to use a larger variety of materials, which may require more delicate bed levelling too. So all this considered: It is crucial for your user experience that your bed is properly levelled and have good adhesion. The most reliable way to ensure good levelling is to have the Ultimaker S5 do it. Every time. That's one part of the printing process that we took more control over, to ensure reliability.
  17. et les feuilles d'adhésion Ultimakers? Moi j'utilise ça pour le PP et ça donne pas trop mal
  18. Utilisez une feuille de PEI ! Ca coute 20 boules et ça n'a rien à voir avec du scoth bleu ou de la glue ou de la laque 😄
  19. Fantastic work, top notch. Personally I can't see how this could be improved any further. You are the King! I read some about your fine motor issues, I wish you the best recovery possible and are looking forward to see more of your work!
  20. Thanks! And no, for the S5 it is not possible to turn off the leveling. So maybe I give it a try, I like the idea behind the switching system and I hate to apply, glue, Dimafix, Magigoo or whatever in the meantime.
  21. You're right (see this thread: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/23706-disable-automatic-active-bed-levelling-for-ultimaker-s5)... that's bad, how on earth did UM get the idea that such behaviour (just not offering customers this option) would be acceptable? The more you know, the less appealing UM printers look. Apart from the easy-swap cores, of course.
  22. This is unfortunatly not possible with the S5, as far as i know.
  23. Ca pourrait venir du firmware peut être? Quand tu dis UM2+ version 3.3.0 c'est ce qu'indique ta version sur la machine?
  24. Bonjour, Je n'ai jamais entendu ce genre de problèmes, est ce que tu as ça avec d'autres logiciels? ça pourrait venir de la carte graphique j'imagine?
  25. Hello, Si les cables sont endommagés c'est mieux de les remplacer je pense (tu peux éventuellement prendre le cablage complet pour la tête s'il y a un doute sur l'intégrité des cables. La sonde ça arrive souvent qu'elle soit bloquée, pareil si elle est endommagée on remplace Et pour le ventilateur ça devrait être minime niveau impact sur la qualité d'impression (à voir)
  26. The PPrint material you mention is quite interesting, so that material is approx. three times as stiff as the UM PP, if I interpret the data sheets correctly. Can't you just disable automatic leveling and use manual leveling?
  27. We have a Mark Two in our company, which is (apart from the extra fiber extruder in the Mark Two) mechanically identical to the Onyx One. It delivers very consistent and accurate results. Of course, it isn't perfect either, but the printed dimensions are always very close to those in the CAD file, holes for centering pins or screws also being very accurate out of the box (which they'd better be, since you have no control over the printing profile at all). Of course, MarkForged is in a comfortable position - they only have to deal with two materials, due to their closed system they can charge you quite some extra money for the filament, and they can control every single part of the printing process (apart from the user badly leveling the printer or improperly cleaning/glueing the build plate). On the other hand, Ultimaker can also control every part of the printing process. They make the printers, the software and the filament, so it should be possible to provide high-quality profiles that "just work" (instead of just being a starting point for tinkering). Back to Topic: One build plate "material" I really like is Anycubic's Ultrabase. I print PLA and PETG of various manufacturers with my i3 Mega, and I had close to zero adhesion issues while being able to just pick up the parts from the print plate with my hands after it had cooled to ambient temperature. Unfortunately, I am not aware of any possibility to buy such a plate seperately (it is glued to the heating elements), for example to replace the glass plate in an Ultimaker with this.
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