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  2. I have been using cura 3.4.1 for my dual extruder reprap machine and have been using the change tool gcode for moving the nozzles off the print why they heat up. The print works fine, but ten randomly, I will get a move that sends the print head crashing into either the X or Y or both endstops. This random crashes did not occur prior to the use of the tool change code and there are many tool changes thoughout the print. But somewhere during the print, could be hours into it, the heads will crash. Has anyone else experienced this and if so can you supply a solution? The tool change does nothing more than move the head to the X30 Y30 position, off the print, and waits until the nozzles change to the correct temperature. Thank you
  3. Today
  4. Julian2801

    Problems when printing vertical holes

    I also thought of that. But I checked it and everything is in a square.
  5. Julian2801

    Problems when printing vertical holes

    1) Yeah, you are right about the changing direction. I think the hole was in the x direction. That also fits with my observation that when I pluck the front x belt the frequency is about 310 Hertz ( I'm assuming that this means it is too tight?) 2) When I gently push the nozzle of the printhead in any direction it isn't moving. When I'm moving the whole printhead it is in sync with the stepper movement. 3) So after I eliminated the play on the axles it got a lot better. But still, there is a small imperfection. The imperfections are only on the layers where the hole starts and ends. I will wait if you can say that the front x belt is too tight and then try again. If the issue still is the same I can send you more pictures if you want.
  6. wraypa1

    Ultimaker S5 prints not square

    HI, Thanks for your message, yes, i do, indeed this has to fit into another item which is square and the effect is probably worse than the photo makes it look.
  7. foehnsturm

    Another take on ringing

    Well, at and least in theory, you could counteract against the ringing with smarter slicing. If you know the resonance frequency / wavelength, the slicer could alter the path in a way that e.g. at at corner it stops the moving axis like 0.1mm earlier to compensate for the belt stretch and then add this 0.1mm to the axis position again after half of the resonance wavelength to compensate the back swing / contraction of the belt.
  8. TimMueller

    Anycubic I3 Mega Druckhöhe Z Achse

    Also erst einmal vielen Dank tinkergnome ich habe folgendes geprüft: 1. Nach skalierung die angegebene z Position ( Bild 1 ) --> OK 2. Layeranzahl 125 ( Bild 2 ) --> OK Ich habe den ersten Layer auf 0,2 mm umgestellt und prüfe sobald der letzte Druck fertig ist. Sobald sich etwas geänder hat melde ich mich nochmals 🙂
  9. tinkergnome

    Anycubic I3 Mega Druckhöhe Z Achse

    Ein paar Ideen die Kantenlänge von "Part1" ist 50mm. Wenn Du in Cura skaliert hast, prüfe sicherheitshalber anschließend auch die Position (z=0) mit dem ersten Layer 0.3 und alle anderen Layer 0.2 lassen sich 25mm nicht exakt erreichen, es gibt auf jeden Fall eine Abweichung in halber Layer-Höhe - das wären aber nur 0.1mm. Wieviele Layer zeigt Cura an (125)? die Z-Höhe hängt auch davon ab, wie genau der Düsenabstand zur Plattform eingerichtet ist (bzw. beim 'Homing' vom Drucker wiedergefunden wird), und wenn die Plattform nicht perfekt eben ist (das ist sie nie...), gibt es auch eine Abweichung Mehrere kleine Abweichungen addieren sich möglichwerweise, 0,4mm sind allerdings ziemlich viel, um es nur darauf zu schieben. Da der Drucker ziemlich günstig ist, ist die mechanische Stabilität evtl. auch ein Thema. Wie gut lässt sich das Ergebnis reproduzieren (Stichwort: Wiederholgenauigkeit)? Was genau wird da kalibriert? Nach Anpassung der steps/mm für die Z-Achse sollte man eigentlich schon einen Unterschied feststellen können.
  10. smartavionics

    Introducing Ultimaker Cura 3.5 | Beta

    Please save the project from 3.5 and attach the .3mf file here (if you are able/willing to share that).
  11. phantom

    Introducing Ultimaker Cura 3.5 | Beta

    Well the problem has returned ! 3.5 slices ultra slow, and 3.4.1 still works very fast. Tried another model to slice: 3.4.1 5 seconds slicing 3.5 beta 15 seconds to slice Any ideas what's causing this ?
  12. foehnsturm

    Another take on ringing

    Here is what I found so far: The resonance (ringing) frequency of my UM3 is around 26 hz; corner bulging and ringing is affected by wall speed and jerk; you can mostly ignore acceleration, as (at least with usual settings) it happens in a different time scale. As commonly known, the bulging happens due to overpressure in the hotend. This will inevitably (pressure advance algotrithms could probably help here) build up when printing with more than very modest speed (like 20-30mm/s). "Slow" deceleration doesn't help to release the pressure, because our "slow" like 500mm/s2 or even 100mm/s2 is way too fast. Deceleration still happens in a timescale of less than 0.1 sec, which is one or two magnitudes too fast to show any helpful effect on the extrusion system. So, if you want to print with more than very low speed, you're like going downhill in a car with very weak breaks. If you want to go fast straight you have also to corner fast: I got the same perfect, almost bulging-free pre-cornering surface with standard 20/5 speed/jerk as with 50/30. With a speed-jerk difference above 20 the bulging starts, irrespective of acceleration (tried from 100 mm/s2 to 2000mm/s2). But fast direction changes will produce ringing after the corner. The printhead and the belts form kind of a resonating mass-spring system. The amount of "bad" energy stored there, again monstly depends on the speed difference between the two adjacent paths, which is defined by the jerk setting. However, there's is some positve effect (less stored ernergy) when decelerating very slowly but this is ruined by the increased bulging. Eventually the ringing may be reduced by some kind of hardware measures for low frequency damping. E.g. somehow decouple the belt vibrations from the printhead. Another approach, which could show some positive effect, is to measure the ringing frequency (print speed / distance between the ripples) and find a specific deceleration rate as explained in the Duet3D forum. Left (standard): wall speed 20/30mm, acceleration 500/1000, jerk 5/10 | 30 min Right: wall speed 40/50, acceleration 526/789, jerk 20/20 | 22 min
  13. TimMueller

    Anycubic I3 Mega Druckhöhe Z Achse

    Hallo zusammen, ich habe seit längerem einen Anycubic I3 Mega und habe mich ein wenig mit Cura und den Einstellungen beschäftigt. Jetzt wollte ich die Genauigkeit des Druckers prüfen und stelle beim Druck eines Würfel 25x 25 fest, dass in der Z Achse 0,4 mm mehr sind als in den anderen. Ich kann mir aber nicht erklären woher das kommen soll. Ich habe keine Rattern beim Verfahren in Z und habe auch in der Positionierung keine Fehler feststellen können. Ich habe bereits auch mehrfach neu kalibriert, jedoch auch ohne Erfolg. Hat jemand eine Idee woher der Fehler kommen könnte? Ich habe mal die verwendeten Profileinstellungen angehängt und den Würfel auch. Danke Vorab für die Hilfe Tim Profileinstellungen.curaprofile Part1.stl
  14. ahoeben

    Setting up variants for a custom printer

    This is indeed not something that is possible with just configuration files. A Python plugin can detect changes to one variant, and then apply the same variant to the other extruders. That Python plugin would connect to each of the extruder stack containersChanged signal, and for each extruder stack check if the variant container equals the emitted container and if not it would change it.
  15. neotko

    Problems when printing vertical holes

    In my experience that effect always shows specially when the X/Y are out of square https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles
  16. boelle

    Tried 3.5.0 beta, a q from a noob

    i might have looked the wrong place but i could not find any settings that would leave heaters on
  17. boelle

    Tried 3.5.0 beta, a q from a noob

    i will give it a check in cura, been a long time since i used it last its more that i like to be in control of the start and end gcode so i know kind of can depend on how its created or at least i can know where thing come from
  18. peggyb

    Welke soorten filament?

    nee, helaas niet, had er ooit een nodig voor een reparatie. Maar je zou zelf een heated bed upgrade kunnen samenstellen uit losse onderdelen.
  19. tinkergnome

    merging 2 stl files one on top of the other

    Hi bman, your modeling software is usually the better tool to define the placement of both parts. Take sure that you export both models with the same origin (if the modeling software has options for that). There's no need to manually move them around in the slicer. In Cura you simply select all models then and use the "Merge models" function (right mouse click). Basically this function lines up all origins and the parts are placed exactly like they were exported (relatively to each other). Good luck!
  20. kahuna3d

    No/or wrong Monitor Tab info during print

    Deleted Cura and prefs/cache and reinstalled - same issue and some new eerie stuff 🙀 Fired up MatterControl and it printed the best adjustment knob I have ever seen without a glitch 😇 Cura was a bit funky from the get-go 😬 I can only summarized Cura 3.4.1 isn't savvy with Mac OS X 10.9.5 and CR-10 😐
  21. kmanstudios

    Disconnected Parts

    Which format did you convert from? If in 3DS MAX, use the STL check modifier to see if it is disconnected. Maya and Modo I am not familiar with. But, you can also put it through an online checking service to see if there are any issues with the model. That is usually what causes the effects you are seeing.
  22. Go to Settings in top bar of Cura, Click "printer", Go to "manage printers", Go to "machine settings", then click the "heated bed" box. In case you are wondering how I know this, I asked the same question about a year ago! Don't be afraid to ask questions, we all had to start somewhere and 3D printing can be overwhelming at times and the simplest things that seem monumental stumbling blocks to a beginner are easily addressed by those of us that have been where you are now and are willing to help.
  23. But are any of those a problem for your prusa? Maybe there is a slicer setting e.g. "uncheck to leave heaters on at end of print".
  24. gr5

    Problems when printing vertical holes

    1) Did you look at this portion of the print in layer view to see if it switches between clockwise and counterclockwise? 2) Check for play. Push on the nozzle (gently) towards left, right, front, back. It should not move. Push and twist the head until it starts moving. It should not move before the steppers start to move. If it does - this is called "backlash" or "play". There I gave you two things to do - please report back. 3) Maybe more photos of the issue above would help as well. It looks like what you care about is only on the left side of the hole - is this true? Can you photograph from a few more angles and look at the photos to see if the photos are showing the issue well?
  25. ichimo

    Disconnected Parts

    I got the model from here. https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/elven-shield-3d-3ds/791629
  26. How do you tell Cura 3.4.1 your printer has a heated build plate.
  27. Yesterday
  28. kmanstudios

    Disconnected Parts

    Where did you get the model? This looks like a non-manifold model.
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