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  2. Stubborn BB Core Not coming clean

    Further bake-out for another 1.5 hours at 300c yielded more black carbonized bits, and finally a clean cold pull with the full shape of the nozzle. Planning to run a test print and see how it goes. I think for now the moral is that if your cold pull is clean but rough and not the exact shape of the nozzle, you may have some stubborn bits that are stuck to the nozzle wall that need to be burned off. Probably not a big deal on an AA nozzle but from my experience this has caused failed prints on PVA in a BB nozzle.
  3. Messy first layers - no retraction

    No I have not pursued it further and think Ultimaker should fix it in Cura ASAP. Should be an easy fix @mat89
  4. Grinding Noise during Travel on UM2+

    Hi mayo77, Yes you're right. This is belt offset sound. It may happen on each of the 4 pulleys for the X axis or each of the four pulleys for the Y axes! Here it will sound loudly when the slider holding the 6 mm shaft is approaching an offset pulley. If the shaft is in the middle it does not make much noise, but will when coming close to the pulley. Since your printer have this sound all the time, it may come from an offset of the short belts, either X or Y. Noise from here will be present all the time, if it is offset. Belts (all six) used for a long time will wear and make noise due to the wear (it climb on the teeth), maybe a belt change is to be performed? The pulley teeth will be black due to rubber remains in here. Just some suggestions. It all depend of the total printing hour for your printer, however I'm not that heavy user, so I do not have any max. hour for belt replacement. But overdue belts will make noise! Thanks. Good luck. Torgeir.
  5. Today
  6. Messy first layers - no retraction

    @hoegge & @AbeFM has anyone of you managed somehow to prevent those ugly lines in the first layer with some 'special' settings? Maybe someone could write or has already written a small plugin for this, I'm new to 3D printing and GCODE, but I think it should be that hard to create a small plugin for that.
  7. UM3 zwei Farb Druck Problem Hilfe benötigt

    Leider kann ich bei Cura nicht wirklich mitreden, aber A) würde ich keine 130 Grad als Standby verwenden, sondern eher bei 200 Grad Drucktemperatur sowas um 175 Grad (da muß er sich ja massiv "gequält" haben, um das zähe PLA da raus zu "pressen") und b) welchen Befehl verwendest du bzw. Cura für das setzen der Temperatur? Hier gibt es ja 2. M104 setzt die Temperatur. M109 erlaubt es die weitere Abarbeitung der Gcodes, wenn die Temperatur erreicht und eingependelt ist. mit letzterem wird genau das vermieden. Dadurch dauert der Druck aber auch länger, aber bei so großen Temperaturdifferenzen macht das auch definitv mehr Sinn! Ich bin auch dran, daß ich die Temperatur des "kühleren" Filaments auf die Temperatur des "heißeren" setze, wenn es angewählt wird, und da gewartet wird, bis es eingependelt ist und dann gleich die Temperatur auf die eigentliche setze (über M104) und den druck starte. Dadurch ist das Filament anfangs zu heiß, kühlt aber im laufe des Layers langsam auf die eigentliche Drucktemperatur runter, aber "frißt" sich richtig in den darunterliegenden Layer rein. Damit habe ich in beide Richtungen nämlich perfekte Verbindung! Auf das Problem bin ich nämlich bei meinem ersten Testdruck - ein Pylon - gestoßen. Diesen habe ich mit Ultimaker PLA Gelb und Extrudr PLA weiß gedruckt. Das Extrudr PLA ist ja HDPLA - hält 120 Grad aus, aber braucht auch mehr Temperatur. Die Pylonen sahen toll aus, das weiße PLA hat auch Perfekt am Gelben PLA gehalten. Aber umgekehrt Gelb auf weiß war nur "gebebt". Konnte man so wieder wegdrücken. Da bin ich auf dieses Problem bei Dual das erste mal gestoßen. Ich weiß jetzt nicht, ob der M-Befehl da die Wurzel allen übels ist, aber es klingt für mich, als ob Cura bzw. du den schnelleren M104 verwendest und vermutlich keinen Abstreifturm, also direkt auf´s Modell... Gruß, Digibike
  8. not

    Hi, what do you mean? What does happen? What doesn't work? Sadly the photos are too vague and one can not tell what is wrong with the print. Which printer do you use? Which filament do you use? Which slicer do you use? Is it Cura? If yes, which settings did you enable?
  9. not

    in this object it will always fill in and never print the correct things does anyone have any reccomendations for this thanks
  10. i have the same problem, the AA hard core has worked half hour and now give temp error and some times the printer don't recognize it and display slot empty the strange is that in the 3DSolex web page there in not a contact email !!!!!
  11. Stubborn BB Core Not coming clean

    This is a hot pull after sitting for another 30-45 minutes at 300 degrees. So I think the burn out is having an effect. Going to try another cold pull with the cleaner filament and see where things stand.
  12. 0.25 nozzle won't extrude Ultimaker 2+

    It is 0.25mm not inch (just trying to avoid confusion). In order to test if the nozzle is blocked, you could remove the bowden tube at the head, heat up the nozzle to 220C and push some filament by hand into the nozzle (from the top). Make sure to move the head to one of the four corners in order to not bend the smooth rods the head moves on when applying pressure. If nothing comes out, the your nozzle is clogged and you need to unclog it. Another reason could be that the nozzle does not heat up properly. The temperature sensor might got loose and report wrong temp values. Or it might be broken too.
  13. 0.25 nozzle won't extrude Ultimaker 2+

    The nozzle blocks and won't feed through any of the filament. Yes it has been set to 0.25in cura.
  14. PVA stringing and Burning

    I use the printdry to dehydrate filaments and recharge desiccant and I have one polybox per printer. This allows me to dry other filaments that may have gotten moisture while I printed. While that may seem odd that it would still absorb moisture, once it leaves the box/attached bowden tube, moisture will still get in there. There is no way to keep it fully out, but, it does help greatly. I can fit two spools up to at least 1Kg each. I also suggest getting color changing desiccant so you know when to change out. Keep in mind the bowden tube will add additional friction so you will have to play with your feeder tensions to make sure it has enough pull. I put my printers on table corner stands with open sides and a bottom shelf. The bottom shelf is where the polyboxes go. It feeds very naturally there too. This is a thread where I specifically detailed what I did with my setup and how I reduced the friction from polybox to printer. Took me a week to get it all sorted out.
  15. Stubborn BB Core Not coming clean

    I would see how this prints as it may not be fully able to get all of it. It is a bit odd though, but still see how it prints. I have not pushed my nozzles beyond 270°C though.
  16. I had a BB core that was clogging repeatedly so I took it out of service and just today started taking a deeper look. I have performed about 5 of the machine guided cleanings using PLA and cleaning filament, which produced gobs of yellow and black bits from both hot pulls and cold pulls. But in the end, I am now getting "clean" cold pulls however you can see from the images that there is still evidence of some sort of material that is caked on the cylindrical portion of the print head, and some very tiny bits in the cone shaped portion. My concern is that if I put the nozzle back into service in this condition my problems will continue since we know that perturbations in the flow of a BB core will cause issues with PVA extrusion and subsequent clogging. Beyond the repeated hot and cold pulls, I have also tried heating the empty nozzle (currently at 300 degrees (previously spent 30 minutes at 275 degrees) in hopes that I could convert these bits to carbon and be able to pull them out. So far after pushing about 1 meter of PLA and about 1 cleaning filament through repeated hot and cold pulls I have not been able to get any of these bits free, and each cold pull is similar to the shape shown in the attached images. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  17. Output print settings to text file?

    So much better phrased than my attempt......Thanks!!!
  18. Overextrusion with TPU95

    I was thinking prime tower also. If the nozzle leaks a bit hopefully not enough to fall into the print before you wipe that leakage off on the prime tower. Also you might want to print the tpu slower than normal such that the pressure in the nozzle is lower (hence hopefully less leaking) and you might want to increase your retraction a lot. Watch the tpu in the bowden. You want it to rest on the bottom of the bowden arch when retracted. You might need to go as high as 10mm or even higher for retraction distance if the tpu is bunching up a bit.
  19. 0.25 nozzle won't extrude Ultimaker 2+

    Is line width set to 0.25 (or smaller) in cura? What do you mean it won't work at all? Does it prime? Maybe something got into the nozzle - I'd do a cold pull. Are you familiar with cold pulls? Read up on these.
  20. print cooling fans

    The two side fans expect 12V each and they are wired in series so they they need 24V.
  21. Ultimaker 2+ Feeder noise

    It sounds exactly like my UM2+ does....seems normal
  22. UM3 zwei Farb Druck Problem Hilfe benötigt

    Hi Gerd, habe die Temperatur direkt am UM3 abgelesen und als das gelbe Filament mit dem Druck startete war er bei 130 Grad. Ich könnte natürlich sagen, das der UM3 den nicht genutzten Printcore auf 190 Grad vorhält, halte ich aber nicht für Zielführend, da wir circa 220 Tage im Jahr circa 20 Stunden drucken werden. Energie, Verschleiß etc. Mit Turm klappt es ja aber ja wohl auch nur, weil er die Temperatur hält. Bisserl Unlogisch das ganze, jedenfalls für mich. Ich drucke gerade mit Turm und schaue dann mal das fertige Teil an, Und vor allem den Wechsel. VG Michael
  23. Awesome! E3D tool change movement system with magnet. See how fast it prints with a lightweight extruder... looks like it was inspired by the Mark2 upgrade, just a speculation. They will be showing this stuff at MRRF that starts tomorrow. More info: https://3dprint.com/207521/e3d-tool-changing-3d-printer/
  24. Grinding Noise during Travel on UM2+

    @russlang you never did report back as promised :(... did you ever figure this irritating sound out my printer is making the same sound, but only on one axis...I think its grinding of the belts, stepper motor itself or the actual bearings (holding the rods) but, im not postive because as im sure you already know its pretty hard to pin point the location because it just sounds like its coming from "everywhere". The sound coming from your machine is exactly the same as mine, this is why im asking if you ever figured it out. Also I just ordered a stethoscope as i thought that was a great idea when you mentioned it, hopefully help pin point this. Also anyone else reading this , I promise I will come back and post my solution if i ever find one as well, as this is annoying to figure out. UPDATE: I found the issue. For me this sound ended up being the small belt connected to the stepper in the far right corner of my ultimaker. To check if this is your problem, loosen the set screw on that gear to that belt (alot) and move the head by hand (and do not let that belt move). After i noticed the sound was coming only from that belt, I worked the belt back and forth and got it "centered" again. Then i re tightened the set screw, all has been silent since.
  25. UM3 zwei Farb Druck Problem Hilfe benötigt

    Hallo, Also ich kenne das so das Cura die Inaktive Düse vorheizt bevor der eigentlichen Düsen wechsel ansteht, aber auf gar keinen Fall darf der Drucker bei 130C anfangen zu drucken. Hast du vielleicht bei den unzähligen Temperatur Einstellungen was falsch eingestellt. (evtl. muss erst alles einblenden) Das bezieht sich jetzt auf den UM2 (auf dual umgebaut) ich gehe davon aus das die Funktion jetzt nicht beim UM3 deaktiviert wurde. Wenn´st du nichts findest kannst du den gcode Teilen? Gruß
  26. Positioning the infill Pattern

    Yes, within one object you can position several infill meshes and each can have its own infill style/density, etc.
  27. PVA stringing and Burning

    So I will probably just go ahead and buy either the poly box or the printdry system. Do I need both or just one? Also is one better than the other or should I just go with the cheaper material. I think I may have some humidity issues, but I don't think its that bad. I lowered the print temp to 218 from 220 to see if that helps the burning. So far it looks good.
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