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  2. Hi Chris, welcome to the forum! Some possibilities: choose one of the other Tronxy printers and modify the machine settings where needed add it as a custom printer https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012370160-How-to-add-a-custom-printer-to-Ultimaker-Cura create a complete new set of definition files https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Adding-new-machine-profiles-to-Cura Good luck!
  3. Hi , no i didnt' find where i comes from .....and nobod from Ultimaker replied . ..
  4. There are some explanations about the "stacked profile system" on the developer-wiki: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Profiles-&-Settings The material settings are on the very bottom of the stack, so it's very likely that - in your example - the temperature is overridden by a profile with higher priority. The whole calculation depends on the chosen printer definition (and quality profile). Most of the non-Ultimaker profiles are contributed by the community (or more rarely by printer manufacturers). Which printer is it? Isn't there a reset icon visible like explained in the manual (6)? https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012028419-How-to-use-the-custom-print-settings-in-Ultimaker-Cura
  5. thank you! but I don't see any live video or photo! the display of the video already worked, but it is no longer displayed!
  6. Today
  7. hi, I am using ultimaker cura 4.6.2. I choose in the configuration panel a material. For example eSun PETG (printing temperature 245°, fan speed 40%) Whatever material I choose: In the print setting is always displayed 200°. Also every other value doesn't change. How get my wanted eSun PETG settings in the print settings?
  8. I was in exact the same situation, Building 3d printers, and found my "heaven" in S3D. I hated Cura, because there where so many things missing. But now, in the current status, (UM2, UM3, UM S5), with the current Cura, it works so good!!! For professional use, there is almost no tinkering, just plug and play. Yes S3D is surely better in some ways, but the package Cura + Ultimaker works almost flawlessly.
  9. @WesleyFreitas - sorry this is the english section of the forum. Portuguese only allowed over here: https://community.ultimaker.com/forum/129-other-languages/ So Cura is made by Ultimaker for free. sidewinder is a competitor. But if they create a profile (or if you do) and submit it to the cura team they will include it in a future release of Cura. Maybe ask the sidewinder people to do this for you?
  10. Olá, gostaria que tivesse perfil para a artillery sidewinder x1. [translation from portuguese: Hello, I wish you had a profile for the sidewinder x1 artillery.]
  11. Go to layer view and see where the nozzle head starts at on each layer
  12. Frustrating, I reported this bug back in March and supplied sample files and screen shots showing the good 4.4.1 version and the bad 4.5 version. All those attachments seem to have disappeared.
  13. Yesterday
  14. And where is this located. I'm using the latest cura 4.6. I see the scale menu when I click on the object but it says 100% The dimensions I see in the far left are what it should be in inches. Remember I'm new and this is my first project I've done not some preloaded test. So a explanation of how would help. Thanks
  15. Yes, it will print at that size. Cura is metric, so if you're not sure you converted it to metric or not that should be the first thing you check. Alternatively you can scale it within Cura.
  16. thank you guys i was going to ask the same question
  17. OK guys I'm new to 3D printing and I've made my first model. I used AutoCad 2007 to make my model. I exported it as a stl file and opened cura but when I open it, it's very small. Is it going to print it that size or did I do something wrong. I started in inches cause that's how I work but I think I converted it to mm What I see
  18. Sorry it took so long for me to respond but I have some answers to the questions you asked. The IT admin sent me info for a 24 hour period. The host printer sent 243.87 GB and received 10.26 GB, the other printers sent out 15.78, 15.26 and 7.36. One printer didn't send or receive any data in that 24 hour period. 1. The large amount of data in question gets sent from our host printer to (api.ultimaker.com) 2. The data seems to get sent out every 2 minutes and totals to the numbers I gave above.
  19. Ahh ja. Dann war es vielleicht einer der Stecker und du hattest Glück. Wünsche jedenfalls viel Erfolg mit dem Level-Sensor. Bis zum nächsten Umbau sozusagen 😉 Viele Grüße Christian
  20. Ne ein Smoother hat irgendwie kurz nicht funktioniert hab ihn jetzt an einen anderen Schrittmotor gehängt und jetzt klappts wieder. Hab zwar keinen Plan warum aber er geht wieder😆
  21. Hi gr5 I think you replied to the wrong thread
  22. My most common change is to disable acel and jerk, set all speeds to 40mm/sec, use skirt, set initial horiz expansion to -0.3. If I change materials or nozzle size I want those mods to carry over.
  23. Wieder vergessen. Stringing, kann auch bedeuten das der Retract/Einzug zu wenig ist.
  24. Hallo crusader, einfach machst du es dir nicht. Warum rennst du nicht einfach wie deine Kreuzritter Vorfahren mit einem Schwert durch den Wald?! (Stimmt, das darf man ja garnicht mehr 😔) Zu Bild 1. Das Teil ist zu Winzig für deine Druckdüse. Versuche dein Glück mit 0.25. Oder Skaliere es entsprechend größer. Bei Scalierung 200% geht es wieder. Auf Bild 2 sieht es so, also ob du zu weit entfernt bist von der Druckplatte während der ersten Schicht. Die Folge ist, dass der Druck nicht auf der Platte hält. Level die Platte so das diese Dichter an der Düse ist. Zu Bild 3. Die Fäden nennt mann "Stringing" Das passiert gerne wenn man entweder zu heiß druckt, oder das Bauteil zu wenig kühlt. Dort ist auch zu erkennen, dass die Druckplatte vermutlich zu heiß eingestellt ist. Der Untergrund und die Stützstrukturen sind ziemlich verbacken. Generell kann ich dir den Tipp geben, nur ein Teil auf einmal zu drucken, bis die Parameter stimmen. Mehrere Teile auf einer Platte ist dann sozusagen next Level. Das wird in Werbevideos gerne gemacht. Aber das nur möglich wenn alles passt. Bei dir und bei allen andern die einen 3D-Drucker kaufen, passt erst einmal nur wenig. Schau mal ein bisschen im Netz nach "Heattower". Das ist ein guter Weg um das Filament kennenzulernen und einzustellen. Irgendwann darfst du dich damit befassen. Wenn du das gleich kennenlernst, hast du später weniger Probleme. Welches Material ist das? Viel Glück Christian (Vom Namen her sozusagen Kollege 😉)
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