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  3. Hallo zusammen, hab den Dom gestern noch 2x gedruckt. Bei Dach 3 hatte ich bei einem der Drucke kleine Löcher drin, aber überschaubar. Ich denke generell mehr Schräge ----> weniger Gefahr für Löcher. Vielleicht kann man nur die kleinen Dächer auf der 3er Dachseite etwas schräger machen? beste Grüße und ein schönes Wochenende Euch, Ben
  4. When you don't print too much spools nothing happens, but if you plan to print it more often, then you should think about an upgrade to the Bondtech feeders. They have hardened gears.
  5. The bottom needs support...but that is supplied by the build plate. the 3D design is represented by a mesh of infinitely thin triangles that describe the surface of object. If you zoom into the mesh of the sphere, you will get to a point where rect triangle is a flat surface, or “face”. Associated with that triangle is a “normal” vector that is perpendicular to the face. But does that normal point outward or inward? Properly described (by convention) the normals point outward. Cura uses the normals for its display (the slicer doesn’t care and uses a different mechanism). If the face normals point downward by a steep angle, it colors red as a hint. If the sphere normals point inward, the ones on the top faces are pointing down...thus why Cura colors it red.
  6. Thx, I'll try reading it through.
  7. This may be related to the problem I reported in this thread here:
  8. Did you ever solve this? Since the prior firmware snafu, I had my active leveling to always which was fine. Tonight I thought to myself, oh the latest firmware fixed that, so I changed my autoleveling to either weekly or automatic, I forget which, and I had the "press too close to the plate" issue. I only noticed because I had heard weird sounds coming from my printers extruder for core 2, and then when I looked at the plate, I realized that it was too close so the filament wasnt getting pushed through. Thanks in advance! Bobby
  9. I ended up getting the S5 it should be here week after next, I feel like I am 6 again and its Christmas morning. (but I digress) at about 25:20 on this video an Expansion for the S5 is hinted at its over a year later anyone have a clue what it is? I want to print the Gyro orb showed in just about every dual extruder demo for a Ultimaker printer anyone that has printing it want to share the settings you used?
  10. Yes but you are going to tear your adhesion sheet very often anyway so it's not as wonderful as you might think. Also you can print on both sides of the glass if you want. If you use PVA glue I'm not sure that it makes a difference which side you print on. I've printed on both sides of the glass on 4 of my 7 UM printers (so far) because after a year or so I usually manage to chip the glass. It might make a difference but I haven't noticed.
  11. When you replaced the heater block did you replace the teflon part. That's the part that fails most often. Especially if you printed any ABS at all as it fails faster at higher temperatures. I sell them cheap in my store (full disclosure - I sell UM parts) but only to people in USA. thegr5store.com Definitely do the feeder test first as it's so easy and eliminates so many issues and narrows things down. It takes me all of 10 seconds to do as I've done it so many times now and I don't need a scale to do it anymore. Anyway here is a complete list of things that cause underextrusion on the UM2: One can quickly check the feeder (it takes seconds) so I would always do that first. The feeder on UM2+ and UM2 can push with 10 pounds (5kg) force easily so first thing is to lift that lever (if um2+, if um2 regular do move material) and insert filament so it is only part way into the bowden (e.g. half way). Then move the filament with "move material" command in menu so the feeder is energized and then pull down on the filament under the feeder. You should be able to pull with 5 to 10 pounds force without it slipping. Then have it move the material up while you pull down. 5 pounds force (2kg) is enough to make decent prints at moderate speeds listed below but you need 10 pounds (5kg) to print fast (e.g. 0.2mm layers and 60mm/sec) As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. Simpler cold pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg 😎 Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem. 21) Firmware settings - for example UM2+ firmware on UM2 or vice versa will cause 2X over extrusion or 2X underextrusion. Downgrading or changing firmware can mess up steps/mm and other settings - so if you updated firmware and then problems started then do a "reset to factory settigns" which corrects all the steps/mm values. 22) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3 and 8mm for S5). 23) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 24) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 25) Other feeder issues. You can test the feeder by putting the filament only part way down the bowden and with the feeder electrically turned on (or moving) pull very hard on the filament until it slips. You should be able to pull with about 5kg or 10 pounds of force before it slips. 4kg is acceptable. 2kg is a problem. If the stepper motor isn't engaged you can try going into the move menu. After a minute or so power is removed again from the feeder stepper.
  12. I can confirm that after slicing using v4.1 my PVA supports print as intended now. UMS5_Bontrager Blendr Light Cradle v1_0 - Cura4_1.gcode UMS5_Bontrager Blendr Light Cradle V1_0 - Cura4_2_1.gcode Printer: Ultimaker S5 Firmware v5.1.93.20190313 Spool 1: Ultimaker Black Tough PLA AA0.4 Spool 2: Ultimaker Natural PVA BB0.4
  13. Yesterday
  14. Sorry I didn't see your comment earlier. You can use 2*4*1.5 PI insulator and the original 2+ feeder with 2*6.35 tube with DXU. In the BOM I try to list a generic link where possible. Only when the parts are very rear, I specifies the Taobao seller. All the parts from the taobao seller are very good quality, you can absolutely by all possible parts from them. I have the same question as burdickjp. Why do you need to replace the original heat break with the all threaded one?
  15. I’ll have to check out those brands. The eSun is nice since it’s prime on Amazon. Yep, bought a hardened nozzle to go with it. Wasn’t aware about the feeder gears being damaged by it though.
  16. It seems as if the cura connect software is hosted on an embedded web server within the ultimaker firmware. Is there a way to not run it on the printer? If I have to re-start the "master" printer due to an error or crash, it seems to lose all sense of progress of the other printers, among other data. If I had it running in a VM on the same local network, it wouldn't matter which printer was on or off, and I could keep an external database, freeing resources from the actual printer CPU. Has this been requested / contemplated before? I've search a bit, but all I see are references to some sort of cloud service. I'm thinking more of a downloadable set of software, like Cura itself, that can then be installed on a standard nginx / apache setup and used to manage my printers independent of cloud hosting or connectivity. (I mean, if it runs on the printer itself, surely one could even put it on an RPi4 or some such if a VM or actual server was not available... You could even print the case...) Just a thought. Would be curious to know if I'm the only one looking for such a thing. Thanks!
  17. Hi, I was wondering if there is a plugin or possible tweak for me to see only the changes between one profile and another. Currently I have a proliferation of settings and I tweak many options using the expert view. However - I prefer to set up some base configs that are common and then modify only a few settings for a different profile. Currently I have to go through the entire list so I was wondering if there is a way to set up a parent profile that has the whole set of settings and then children in which I see only those that I tweaked for that child profile (e.g. PLA Vendor 1 (parent), PLA Vendor 1 - coarse (child 1 - maybe I only tweaked layer height. So all other settings are masked when I view the child so I know the ones I tweaked), PLA Vendor 1 - coarse no support (child 2 layer height+unchecked Generate support), etc) Any pointers on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bimal
  18. That's true, but there are also a lot of other brands which works fine too. I have good experiences with colorFabb, Filamentum, Innofil 3D. Be careful, carbon fiber filament is abrasive and will destroy your nozzle and feeder gears!
  19. Yeah, I just tried drying because that’s what the filament seller recommended. I’ll definitely check the coupler. I’ve replaced it on the UM2+ extended before, so no big deal. The eSun has a lot of good reviews on Amazon but there are a few reviews with similar issues regarding the stringing. I stuck to UM filament only because that’s what the reseller told me. I did end up getting a roll of carbon fiber nylon filament from 3DXTech that worked well. I only mentioned getting the UM filament because it’s normally pretty reliable.
  20. Thank you. No solution for Ryzen, but at least i know it isn't my hardware.
  21. The official website has good instructions: https://octoprint.org/download/
  22. I don't think you have to dry the spool, PLA is not very sensitive to humidity. Check your PTFE coupler, when the part is worn out, it presses on the filament and you normally see underextrusion. But I can well imagine that the retract won't work that well anymore. I don't know the eSun filament, but if it is a good quality filament, I see no reason to buy UM material. You can use any manufacturer. So even in your old company it wouldn't have been necessary to buy UM material because of the warranty.
  23. See https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5265.
  24. Ok probiere mal so, den Rest über Prozentsatzüberlappen kompensieren, wenn Wände und Däher nicht richtig haften. DOM_fixed.3mf
  25. Why does the bottom face need support? What are "normals"? How did they get reversed? I'm new to this stuff...
  26. Hi all, not sure how much experience everyone has here with this material but I’ve been having some issues with it lately. It’s been driving me crazy, I’m close to just buying some Ultimaker PLA or other brand. I recently picked up a used UM2+ after working with a UM2+ Extended at my previous job for a few years. There we used all Ultimaker brand filament to retain the warranty. This used one has a few upgrades on it, like PEI sheet, low friction spool holder, etc. supposedly the PTFE coupler had been replaced before I bought it. But I need to check it still. Anyway, the PLA+ was good at first. Printed well with the regular UM2+ profile. Then about halfway through the roll after a few months it started stringing badly. I did a few atomic pulls nozzle is clean. Then I baked the roll for a few hours to dry it out. Still strings regardless of retraction settings. Went up to 12mm retraction still lots of stringing. I tried lowering the temp from 220 to 210 but then it starts underextruding unless I slow down the speed. Even down to 205 (the min temp recommended by eSun) it still strings. So so I thought maybe it was an issue with that roll and bought a white roll of PLA+. Even right out of a sealed bag with desiccant, it strings with the standard profile. The only way to reduce it somewhat was to enable wipe and z-hop. The grey benchy on the left was when the roll was new. The right is current. The white benchy on the left was right after opening the roll. The right is after enabling wipe and z-hop. I’m going to try drying the white roll to see if that helps. Any other suggestions?
  27. also beim DOM alles gut!! Mit den 2 Schichten meinte ich nur bei den umliegenden Gebäuden...schade dass die 3D Drucker immer so lange brauchen für einen Druck sonst würde ich am liebsten die halbe Stadt drucken... 🙂 Das Modell oben hat die Maße 20x20cm.
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