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  2. Hallo klingt speziell bis wissenschaftlich. Der erste Schritt, wäre eine Druckkopfreinigung. Denn die Rückstände im Druckkopf sind das Hauptproblem bei Materialwechseln. Der zweite, wäre ein neuer Printcore als Referenz. Ein legendäres "Benchy" usw. und ähnliches sehe ich nicht. Denn diese Modelle ziehlen auf Estetik und Materialprofile ab. Erfahrungsgemäß drucken ausgelutschten PrintCores sogar besser als neue wenn sie erstmal gereinigt sind. Theoretisch wäre ein Rohr/Zylinder mit einer 0,n Wandung interessant zu drucken. Denn die Abnutzung bei abrasiven Filamenten ist nicht exakt rund. (nur eine Idee) Viele Grüße Christian
  3. Hallo hatte das auch schon versucht. Das Ergebnis waren zwei Druckfiles auf USB für Core1 und für Core2. Tatsächlich macht er das dann. Mit dem Support war ich ebenso auf die Nase gefallen. Hatte dann jeweils (wie auch Smithy geschrieben hat) den anderen Druckkopf deaktiviert. So konnte ich sicher sein das er nicht doch irgendwo den anderen Extruder drin hat. Wobei mir das dann zu umständlich war deshalb druckte ich nur auf Core 1 und wechselte die Rollen entsprechend. Ein kleiner Trick ist. Man kann die Rollen kalt/manuell entladen. Einfach den Feeder aufmachen und Filament rausziehen. Mit kaltem Core funktioniert das auch besser weil dann das Filament keine Fäden zieht. So muss man das Filament jeweils nur noch "Laden". Mit Materialstation ist das anders. Weil er (Überraschung) mit der MS das Material nach jedem Druck automatisch komplett entlädt. Ich lege dann die entsprechende Rolle/Farbe zuvor ins Fach und starte den Druck. Wobei der zeitliche Aufwand derselbe ist. (Weil ich zu den Leuten gehöre, die erfahrungsgemäß beobachten wie er den Druck in der ersten Schicht beginnt. Das Dauert dann mit MS besonders lang). Viele Grüße Christian
  4. Today
  5. Hey all! I had the same problem with my Ender 3 (Silent board with Merlin 1.1.8 firmware). It's been printing flawless for more than a year until the latest releases of CURA. I tore down half the 3-D Printer to make sure it wasn't a mechanical issue. My solution to this problem is very simple. Just adjust the flowrate in your start G-code in the machine settings. M221 S(flowrate percent) My start G-code below: ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code M221 S95 ;Set flowrate to 95 percent G28 ; Home all axes G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X2 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X2.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X2.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ To check that it is working during a print, go into the Ender 3 "Tune" menu and scroll down to flow (The tune menu is only visible while printing).
  6. Put a "Pause at Height" (or two) in the Gcode file. Make the pauses below where you would anticipate the clog. It's a stupid workaround but it would allow the model to finish. I have been working on this same problem on my Creality machine for 2 weeks and haven't come up with a solution yet.
  7. Effectivement ça semble être l'alimentation qui flanche...
  8. I havent been at the office for a long time but yesterday I was in and had some time to fiddle with the printer. Ran diagnostics test of the bed sensor and it reported low performance. Found that both wires was broken, surprised that the test only reported low performance. Repaired them and diagnostics now looked good. However problem still persists. Tried to swap cores as suggested, core #2 still gets pushed hard into the plate preventing filament to be extruded. At least confirmed problem isnt the new core. Automatic levelling seems to be ok for both cores though. Doesnt push down core #2 much while levelling. I also realised that I have changed to a Build-Tak Flex plate shortly before using the new print core, might only have printed with core #1 until I installed the new. Suspecting core #2 "thinks" I'm still printing on glass plate level and ignoring data from levelling. Could that happen and is there anything I can check or try? I will remove the flexplate and try a print on bare glass again but that will be next week I hope. Open for other ideas to try and check.
  9. I think that you have two problems to solve. One is the build surface size and the other is a problem with the model. The actual printable area is determined by a couple of things. Within Cura, go to "Monitor / {your printer} / Manage Printers / Machine Settings" and check that the build plate size is correct for your machine. It should be a rectangle 350 x 350 and "Origin at Center" should NOT be checked. On the printer LCD check the Home Offsets. I don't know for sure but they should be something like X=-10 Y=-10 Z=0. The printer can have two zero positions. One is the absolute machine zero that Auto-Home uses, and the other is a relative zero that is the position of the head when it is at the Home Offset position. When a Gcode file is read, it uses the home offset position as zero. It calculates MaxX and MaxY by adding the numbers (350 and 350 in your case) to the home offset. That means that when you send the print head to X175 Y175 the nozzle should be dead nuts in the middle of the build surface. If it isn't you'll need to adjust the Home Offsets. Regarding the model, the gaps between the members of the array don't matter. Cura understands that they are gaps. Your individual model (that you have arrayed) is the problem. You can try to slice one model (single member of the array) just as a test. I believe even one model won't slice because of internal issues. If Cura 4.6 puts polka dots on the model or highlights particular faces of the model then Cura will refuse to slice because of problems in the STL file. I think there is a Mesh Fixer plugin for Cura in the Marketplace but I have never used it. Hopefully somebody else here can point you in a direction to check that model.
  10. Can you give some more details about your setup? Is the origin intended to be in the rear corner, or did you configure this in firmware? This could be something that can be fixed in firmware/stepper motor wiring.
  11. hi everyone, the home point in cura is by default in the left front corner when in my printer it is in the rear left corner...the consequence is that the prints are mirrored in the Y direction... i try to change the "home-point" position but i couldn't do it...is there a way to do it? Thanks
  12. I think I can understand now your remark 🙂 he seem's to be the king of copy/past except for the section "Donate to the plugin developer!" this part of the source code is definitly his own 🤣
  13. Moin Ich bin gerade aus der Elternzeit zurück und habe die Vermutung das meine Vertretung am Drucker sich beim Material vergriffen hat und satt normales Nylon Faserverstärktes gedruckt hat. (Lagerte beides in der selben Polybox) Jedenfalls hab ich das Gefühl das beim relativ neue Printcore des S5 die Düsendurchmesser nicht mehr stimmt. Die Druckqualität war einfach miserabel ein Zweiter etwas älterer war schon deutlich besser. Dies wollte ich jetzt zum Anlass nehmen die Druckqualität meiner Verschiedenen Printcores mit einem neuen zu vergleichen. Meine Frage ist jetzt, hat jemand ein Tipp wie ich das am besten vergleichen kann? Hat jemand eine schöne STL-Datei die sich zum Test des Printcores eignet? Es gibt ja die verschiedensten Testdateien, Stringing tower, Temp Tower etc. Vielleicht weis ja jemand eine Datei die sich dafür perfekt eignet. Edit: es geht mir darum die Abnutzung zu vergleichen und zu endscheiden ob und wann ich welche Entsorge.
  14. Yes, it would be so much easier if Ultimaker made all there official re-seller list all spare parts. Or even better, open their own after market webshop for spares.
  15. I would suggest try reducing the retraction distance in 0.5mm steps and see if (a) the holes go away because you had too much retraction or (b) you start to get stringing or blobs because you have not enough retraction. Obviously, you can test this on a small model rather than your big print.
  16. You can normally tell if it's air because you can actually hear little pops as the bubbles come out of the extruder.
  17. of course my model is 2 perimeters! so it is strange, I should see the hole in the internal perimeter and close to the starting point, instead the holes are in the external perimeter and far from the starting!
  18. ok, so what you suggest? try to speed up the retraction?
  19. Yes, but your model has no infill and you normally print infill before walls (so it says in your profile) so the air could possibly be expelled in the infill (when you use infill) and you would not notice the holes.
  20. or maybe it could be the z hop that is 1mm?
  21. i don't think so, because I am using always the same retraction that is 5mm... but I set the retraction speed at 30: maybe it is too low?
  22. I would hazard a guess and say you are using too much retraction which is sucking air into the extruder.
  23. Not sure I agree with you here. Breakaway is made to be printed in the same(ish) way as PVA, in direct contact with the material you're trying to support. If you're going to have 1mm distance between support and support-material you might as well use the build material for support and save time and money.
  24. Hi all, I am experimenting a bizarre issue: there are some strange, small "holes" on the external perimeter of my print, but in the gcode there is nothing there to justify them, neither a retraction. Anyone could help with this?? here is the link to download the file: https://we.tl/t-3ZEKvScEtM Thank you... 😞
  25. Bonjour à tous, matériel : ultimaker 2+, cura à jour, firmware à jour ... il m'est arrivé d'avoir un plantage en cours d'impression plusieurs fois de suite : démarrage de l'impression ok, puis au bout de quelques minutes (variable !) les leds se mettent à "vaciller", puis parfois la machine s'arrête : coupure franche, afficheur éteint, se rallume, la machine fait un homing, ou reste plantée à l'endroit de l'impression !... Je suspecte l'alim, est-ce un problème connu ? Philippe
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