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  2. I would have some doubts about carbon-filled materials. The leads of pencils are carbon-filled too, and are *highly conductive*: short-circuit a battery with a pencil lead, and you get a really nice welding arc... Black anti-static mats get their properties from the carbon too. Make sure you measure conductivity on a small test print, and also the breakdown voltage. So the glass-filled looks like a better idea to me. Maybe PET should also do, at least for normal house-hold voltages? But I have no clue about its high-voltage properties. Also, have
  3. Absolutely sure for the S3 and S5 that this is one of the possible causes, next to the obvious damaged files on the USB. The release notes mention this fixed in 5.8.1. If it happens in newer versions than I'd like to hear about this. This will only happen in the first layer of printing, but when you have multiple objects and sliced for "one object at a time", this may be late in the print process. Like I wrote, sometimes an Active Leveling probe fails and this is not always properly detected. Later, during printing the printer will follow the contours of the build plate
  4. If I had to do that, I would consider printing a mould, and then cast some sort of rubber (PU? - which exists in various hardnesses) into it. Or print a real model, print a shell, pour silicone in-between model and shell, and thus make a silicone mould. And then pour rubber into that silicone, to prevent it from sticking. Then you have the advantages of both 3D-printing and casting.
  5. Today
  6. I would print a dummy "cooling tower" next to the real model. So the hot nozzle is moved away from the model, while it is busy printing the dummy, and the model has time to cool down and solidify. Where the bottom of the dummy is empty, since the real model is big enough, and the top of the dummy is 100% filled for the extra cooling time. My standard pictures on the subject: Printing with and without dummy: Concept: inverse shaped dummy, to keep printing time per layer constant: Part of a real model, with pink dummy. The dummy is only
  7. @gr5, it's the Y so 20mm below the build plate mid-point. I'm going to ignore the suitability of "Origin at Center". @onr, Look at the Cura origin icon. The green arm is the Y. The Cura origin is showing "+Y" as being UP in the view. Now look at the "part" origin icon. The part origin green arm is point down. I have no idea why that is, but that is the confusion. You moved the part Y-20 in relation to itself, but the "part" origin (not the part itself) is mirrored about the X in relation to Cura. So in that view, the part is sitting wholly in the +Y even though you have it
  8. I occasionally print PET. In the beginning I tried printing on bare glass, which gave mixed results. Then I tried dilluted wood glue, which gave *very good* bonding. Way too good, because at one time, it chipped the glass. This already happened while cooling down, I heard it crack violently. When I removed the print, it came off without any force, but with the glass chip stuck to the print. Now I use my salt method: apply a few drops of salt water to the glass bed, and wipe that with a paper tissue until it dries into a very thin mist of salt. For PLA, and as long as the glass is h
  9. I don't know if a reseller has these parts, but you can ask. Perhaps you are lucky and they have a damaged print core where you can get spare parts from. Expect minimum EUR20 for the PT100 and EUR15 for the heater cartridge. Counting labour costs, professional users will just replace the whole print core and keep the old one for spare parts. Since you consider repairing the print core I've the feeling you don't count labour costs. Then you can go for a cheaper UM2 compatible components from a third party supplier. Even with the lower cable quality you will save money over time
  10. @gianluca2021 - Is this still the "won't slice" problem? It opened for me (4.8), the model appears to be OK, and it sliced as it should. (There are things in the settings I would do differently, but that is just personal preference. It would certainly print as you have it set up.) EDIT: I exported the model from Cura, opened the file in 3dBuilder, and it did some repair work. Attached is the "repaired" file with the model only. TabletStandV4a.3mf
  11. @nallath Yes. It's a cloud-based functionaility. Thank you!
  12. Okey. Yes I installed it yesterday. But direkt from the Version bevore 6.1 (skipped 6.1 because of the comments here 😅) I printed 2 things yesterday. Till now no issues. (Yes of course the history is gone but...)
  13. I have done a fair share of PETG printing (20-30 kg) and has given up on printing on glass, it just sticks to hard. Have changed to printing on PEI instead and that does magic. No need to fiddle with glue or anything to get a good match. Do yourself a favour and get the flexplate system from Build-Tak makes removal so much easier. The PEI sheets have been good with most materials I have used (PETG, PETG+Carbon fibre, PLA, TPU) Mixed results with Nylon+carbon fibre, some good some got loose. Failure might be due to getting lazy not cleaning the PEI after
  14. hello sorry, I'm sending you another file, of a model with I can't print, thank you very much AU30_TabletStandV4a.3mf
  15. You can also enable the backup plugin. It's shipped with Cura by default.
  16. Hier , j'ai couché ma machine sur le côté droit, installé un capteur de température contre le moteur Z, redressé la machine et relancé l'impression précédente qui s'était interrompue après 8h30 de travail. Les températures des moteurs sont montés aux maximum à 54°c pour X, 50°C pour Y, et 44°C pour Z. L'impression s'est déroulée correctement durant 19h et ma pièce est terminée correctement ce matin. Comme je n'ai pas trouvé de causes réelle au défaut, je ne sais pas comment se déroulera la prochaine impression, mais ce sera pour la semaine prochaine.
  17. The local solution would be backing up %APPDATA%\cura\4.8 as you indicated.
  18. I've used dd for decades. However, I have not played around with the S5 enough to even know how to drop to a command prompt and beat on it at a shell level. I figure since it's working fine, it's best not to go {f-bomb}-ing with it, as in ain't broke, don't fix it. 😉 You know what would be a Real Nice Thing (tm) for Ultimaker to do in the name of Good Customer Relations (tm) would be to publish some instructions on how to do just that. I for one would feel far more warm and fuzzy and more willing to upgrade if I knew that there was a safety net to let me put things back the way
  19. Thanks! A local solution would be great.
  20. Über die Web Oberfläche? Das klingt interessant, jedoch wie Verbinde ich mit UM+ Connect mit dieser? Zwar ist der Drucker per WLan in meinem Netzwerk eingebunden, doch dient dies nur für das senden der Druckdatei von Cura in die UltimakerCloud zum Drucker. Direkt auf den Drucker zugreifen kann ich so leider nicht.
  21. I have 2 cutomized printers, 2 customized materials, and 10+ customized profiles. I wonder what's the easiest way to backup all my Cura settings reliably. Is it keeping a copy of the folder "C:\Users\xxx\AppData\Roaming\cura\4.8\"? Thank you!
  22. Y=-20 means 20mm left of center of your printer. however... For some reason, Cura thinks you have a delta printer. But I'm sure you don't. Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", Uncheck "origin at center". That will fix it so it prints in the center of your printer instead of the front left corner.
  23. This is a more close up pictures for sure, -but cannot be sure that there is an open wiring. At this close distance from the heater core, the heat will extend along the wire and sometimes you burn the insulation at some distance from the sleeve. But with this much wear and tear on the fastening tab, it's strange if there is no hole in the wires insulation.. Another thing, if there is no short here, this short/close distance -mean higher capacitance. So could this increased capacitance be the reason for (out of specification sensed) this error? For sure, there
  24. Hello guys I have an issue with y axis. as you can see in the picture, printer settings, origin at center(0,0)selected. I select the object and changed its coordinate to y:-20 and create the gcode. I checked the output of gcode, Y coordinates in gcode all + also min max also in + side. I believe It should be minus side. why this is happening? could someone explain the behavior? Thank you for the effort to make such great software for free.
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