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  2. The CC 0.6 core is not compatible with 1.75mm filament. A Cura (?) crash occuring when changing the filament diameter to 1.75mm is therefore probably not considered to be a bug with high priority to fix. Best thing you could do is to use 2.85mm material.
  3. So now that the smal part are oke I went a bit bigger but then I noticed something wierd. When there are small bits of infill it sort of curl up and does not stick very well to the previous layer. The bits of curled infill next to the wall get picked up by the nozzle and drops them later on. I lowerd the infill speed so it would have some time to stick to the previous layer. I dropped from 70 to 50 mm/s but it looks like it does not have very much of an effect. Any ideas on how to fix this?
  4. I guess it would look exactly the same with retractions turned off (you can try it). Actually it looks like retractions do not work on your printer. CR-10 has an extruder with bowden tube, right? In this case: take sure that the bowden does not move - it has to be steadily fixed on both ends (feeder and extruder). The bowden tube shall never move (in longitudinal direction) - only the filament inside. And be aware that retraction speed (or more generally: speed for each axis) is usually limited by the firmware. In most cases it is unnecessary to try crazy high speeds, because the printer will never reach it.
  5. @Gigi I have the same question. Have you had any luck printing PCL? Thank you!
  6. Today
  7. Thats really nice trick!! thank you for a nice hack!! it is sustainable and easy way!!
  8. Hello, I have a CC Red 0.6 and trying to print GF30-PA6 Material, The filament diameter is 1.75mm but the extruder shows a compatible material diameter of 2.85mm. When I try to change this setting through Printer settings, Extruder (1/2), then change the compatible diameter to 1.75mm, i am unable to go to the materials section to change the material to 1.75mm as well. It crashes every time i try to (ctrl+K) open Materials. Is there a solution to this or should I just use the printhead with the default settings?
  9. You mean like the horizontal offset setting?
  10. It seems like some of the libraries it's linking to are of the wrong architecture. I'm building cura on Linux myself, so I don't know how to resolve this specific issue.
  11. Hello! Yeeeesssss I get some changes! 😅 See below a pics of 2 last prints. I joined start layer change together. This result is confirming problem get his origin in layer change. Now how to hide this bad line?🙄 Kind regards
  12. I haved used the printer over Ethernet for almost 2 months without any problems. The printer just randomly gets unreachable for an hour every day, and suddenly works out of nowhere.
  13. Hi Waldo, I don't mind doing your print so you can compare. but can I get you to upload it as a "Cura Project (.3mf)" I like to check the settings before printing.
  14. so I did a test with and without the Z offset and it did not make any visual difference. I did al my tests with a layer height of 0.1mm and these are the settings I got the best results with(on an Ultimaker S5): temp: 245/70 flow: 93.5 max retractions: 100 avoid parts: ON retraction speed: 35 retraction distance: 10 coasting: OFF Z offset: 0 And then I changed the layer height to 0.2mm and it came out even better. Here are some pictures of the tests: first pic is best result. second is in PLA. third is first and last result forth is first/worst test result
  15. dxp

    Colorfabb LW-PLA

    If you are able to read german, check this out: Toller Schaumschläger: Colorfabb LW-PLA
  16. Watching the current printed layer is the best option, IMHO. However, the depth-of-field of the camera could be better. Even better would be a focussing option.
  17. That makes a lot of sense. I learned something new today! Would you recommend using netfab regularly to clean up prints then?
  18. Depending on how that web site constructs the geometry, I’m not surprised with there being problems. Fonts are designed primarily for rendering on a 2D surface where overlapping shapes do not matter. So the loops likely are defined by curves that cross through the stem. Naively extruding that shape into 3D leaves an area that intersects with itself, causing internal geometry which causes the slicer to confuse what is inside vs outside the solid.
  19. Thank you, looks great now.
  20. Cura uses openGL. This kind of thing happens all the time if your version of opengl installed on your computer is an older version or if your graphics card doesn't support some important (for cura) features of openGL. Try these things: 1) Update your graphics card to the latest driverss 2) Updating openGL to a newer version (I'm not sure if one can even do this or if you have to update the whole operating system?) 3) Try a different computer (seriously - it's a good intermediate test even if not a final solution for you).
  21. It's "line width". There is no nozzle size anymore. In practice, for a 0.4mm nozzle you can set line width from around .35 to around .5mm. I accidentally set it to 0.8 for a 0.4mm nozzle and the part actually came out pretty good. Anyway, I recommend you set line width equal to your nozzle width. UM/Cura often recommends a smaller line width than the nozzle (around 7/8ths I think). I disagree. Somewhat strongly. Unless you are trying to print thin walls like an architects model of a house.
  22. Tried the netfabb, worked like a charm. Thank you for the help sir! You are a rock star
  23. This might be a little late but that is not the Cura profile but rather some additional gcode commands that the printer uses. I was confused when I looked at the same thing but it is written in Chinese and Notepad just displayed the random characters. I put the file into Microsoft Word and opened with the simplified Chinese encoding. I then translated the Chinese text into English and you get a rough approximation of what it is. I have attached the translated file in case you don't have access to Word. XY3Guide.pdf
  24. Gotcha! Appreciate the help. I was using a web pack from thingiverse. I've posted the link below. Let me know what I can/should do. Thanks for the help! http://www.mxs.de/textstl/
  25. To just make these printable, you can use service.netfabb.com (free with registration). What program are you using to generate the letter models? To understand how to create better models in the first place, we need to know how you made them.
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