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  2. Quite likely. This probably means your printer does not have access to the internet and thus hasn’t been able to reach a time server. This thread has a couple of pointers on how to set the time. The simplest is probably to connect to the printer with Cura and Cura will set the time. Good to know 🙂 Got to keep the fingerprints intact!
  3. Bon, après moults essais, je peux dire que j'ai trouvé une solution en PETG, avec la version 3.6 de Cura. Largeur de couche optimisée pour permettre un remplissage à 100% en mode concentrique, comme ça la buse a toujours un mouvement qui suit la courbe. Impeccable. Plus de soucis de décollement de couche non plus, la version 4.x a un bug a ce niveau. Merci à tous pour votre soutien :)
  4. Today
  5. Yes, you are right. They are not tightened all the way and still have more than enough flex. I am not new to 3D-printing. ;) I should have mentioned, tight as possible means as possible as my big fingers are able to turn those tiny flat screw heads before they are erasing my fingerprints. :D As I said, the link from Smithy and others state to turn the bed down a lot, so the bed doesn't push the nozzle in and only touches them. This is the case now. Ok, I couldn't wait anymore and brought a flash drive with FW 5.2.11 on it with me today. Long story short: it didn't work because printer says the FW can't be verified. I downloaded it directly from the Ultimaker Website with a Ubuntu Linux computer and put the file directly onto the flash drive. After that, I did a factory reset of the printer, but it showed the same error after that. A quick search here in the community brings up a possible issue with the timestamps, could this be the error?
  6. Sorry, I haven't looked at this yet. I will probably get around to it over this weekend.
  7. Question: on dirait que le ressort du milieu est plus grand que les deux autres. Normalement, sont-ils tout les trois identiques ?
  8. Quel genre de mèche ? Une aiguille ? ça risque pas de fondre ?
  9. Hello, I also bought an Ultimaker S5 original. It is recommended to read the manual in any case. There is a lot worth knowing about the 3D printer in it. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52623-manuals There are also sellers for the "clamp clips" of this printer. In my maintenance set was the glass plate, the nozzles, grease, oil, glue and a screwdriver for all the screws. Additionally you can use a spatula and a pair of pliers (for the nozzle cleaning).
  10. Inzwischen läuft das schon sehr gut, Cura und Druck per Octo. Per Telegram (komplett kostenlos) erhalte ich Nachrichten auf das Handy bzw. Uhr. Jetzt noch die Cam (brauche noch ein längeres Kabel, gibts diese auch als "nicht" Flachkabel?) und eine Halterung (ev. Thingiverse). Display ETA finde ich nicht.
  11. Just got my S5 I got a lightly used one for a Good price, after spending 3 hours updating firmware and cleaning out one heck of a nozzle clog it is printing and I am happy. A few questions are there supposed to be Clips on the Hotend side of the nozzle? mine are missing not a big deal I can print more (just downloaded and sliced every single clip I could find on Thingaverse . Where can I get A Maintenance kit for an S5? I know it seems odd but I think pliers were used to pull the #1 Tube out as there are marks near the Hotend and the missing Clips, so I want to start out on the right foot.
  12. Et en remontant, mettre de la graisse au cuivre... surtout qu'on assemble de l'acier sur du laiton et de l'aluminium... C'est pas trop top au niveau des différences de dilatation , d'oxydation, et de transfert de chaleur...
  13. Tout ça peut se faire avec de la patience.Vu l'état où tout cela s'est retoruvé, la cartouche de chauffe et la sonde, il vaut mieux les changer... Mais pas le bloc... ça se nettoie très bien! A moins qu'a force de bourriner, il soit abîmé... Trop tard pour dire que le pistolet thermique était une très mauvais idée... Il faut plus de délicatesse... Ce qui tu décris m'est déjà arrivé, et il suffit de maintenir la tête chaude, et de retirer le plus gros du plastique pendant qu'il a une consistance pâteuse, de chewing, gum, patiemment, avec une petite pince.. une fois que tout est dégagé, on démonte.. tête chaude.. (sans se brûler bien sûr!!!) Mais si la cartouche de chauffe sort généralement bien, la sonde c'est une autre histoire! elle est fragile et casse une fois sur deux au moins... Donc si elle casse: si le métal reste bloqué, on arrive à l'enlever avec une petite mèche en le détruisant... Et on nettoie tout ça avec une petite brosse métallique sur une dremel, par exemple.. Là on peut chauffer au décapeur, quand il ne reste que du métal à nettoyer... la sonde, avec une pince très fine, ça sort... surtout d'un bloc Olsson.. moins d'un bloc d'UM2... DÉ LI CA TESSE!
  14. Yesterday
  15. Pity, but thanks for your reply. Any chances that they will be made available in the future?
  16. Removing the CR-10S printer could well be sufficient to clear this. Not sure. Living on the "bleeding edge" I get these messages quite often and normally just wade in and remove from the config directory the profile/extruder/printer definition file(s) it's bleating about.
  17. No, you are right, fully tightened is not good and will not work.
  18. Pretty sure this is the route I am going to go as well. I am getting the Load Library Error 87 problem.
  19. I've seen this in the past, you DO NOT want to click "reset". It pops up every time I open CURA. Can I make this error go away? I don't care if I get my CR-10S profiles back or not, but I don't want to click "reset" and lose all my work from ever. Thanks!
  20. Hallo iras-xtc, dein Board gibt nicht genug Strom für zwei Lüfter. Du kannst über Cura bei Kühlung "anfängliche Lüfterdrehzahl" zu Druckbeginn gleich 100% oder weniger eingeben. Leider gilt diese Option schon bei Layer 0 und kann somit die Haftung bei ABS und so solche Materalien verschlechtern bzw warping. Eine andere Möglichkeit wäre einen externen MOSFET anschließen wie diese hier: https://www.ebay.de/itm/3d-drucker-heizung-controller-heatbed-mos-modul-hot-bed-board-ueberschreiten-/143282773629?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 0-12 Volt Eingang und 0-12 Volt Ausgang bei konstanter Ampere wie dein Netzteil hergibt. Oder die Firmware mit "min. FAN=100" oder so zu begrenzen.
  21. Hallo Commnunity, weißt einer von euch warum Cura seit Version 4.2x oder so eine Dünne Linie so groß wie der Düsendurchmesser immer in zick zack Linie macht? Ich habe eine 0.3mm Düse und eine 0.3mm Linie konstruiert und slicen lassen, aber die Linien sind nicht mehr am Stück wie vorher. Es macht keinen unterschied die Linienbreite von 0.25-0.35mm zu verändern, es wird immer zick zack daraus. Mein Drucker kann diese unterbrochene Linien nicht vernünftig drucken.
  22. Using two-part moulds will for sure cause the silicone to leak, if it is a slow curing one (>10min). A very fast curing one (<5 minutes) might not leak too much. Unless you fill the seams. Silicone leaks through microscopic pores. A common method to seal the seams, is to use plasticine or wax. But it has to be a plasticine that is compatible with silicone, it should not contain any sulphur (plus a lot of other stuff) which inhibits curing. Do a compatibility test before with a little bit of silicone and the plasticine or wax. You can find good tutorials on Youtube. Search for: silicone mould making and casting. Concerning details: if you use good silicone, *everything* that is visible in the mould, will be visible and mirrored in the casting, just everything. Silicone reproduces up to microns. So: all layer lines, underextrusion gaps, blobs, strings, fingerprints in plasticine parts, nail marks, hairs, dust, any defects,..., all will be horribly visible. And you may have entrapped bubbles if you don't remove them by vacuum after mixing both parts of the silicone. Another way to reduce bubbles, is pouring the silicone in from very high in a very thin stream. And gently (!) blow on bubbles, or prick them with a needle. If you have a shaker while pouring in the silicone, that also reduces bubbles: maybe try an electric tooth brush, or your girl friend's pleasure toys. :-) Do a lot of small test prints, before doing a big one, just to get familiar with the materials.
  23. I have a few models that after being edited and are hollow on the back side, how would I go about making it print a solid back and bottom? Essentially trying to get it to look like Mr. Solo with a good base on the bottom with a solid back so you can not see the supporting material. Any Ideas?
  24. I haven't had NGEN warping and coming off the bed, but I haven't printed big items either: mine took maximum 3 hours and were low flat models. PET sometimes did warp if printing on bare glass, in the beginning when I used 100% cooling. Now when using no cooling, it does not warp anymore. But here too, my models are low and flat, and take maximum 3 hours. So, try to print without cooling if the model allows it (=no overhangs, no bridges), or try a good bonding method. I used gr5's bonding method a couple of times (=white wood glue 10% dilluted in water) on models that needed cooling, which gives excellent bonding. But that bonding is sometimes too strong and might chip the glass, depending on the model... The problem with no cooling for PET is that it tends not to pull nice strings when bridging, contrary to PLA. PLA gives really nice bridges. But PET-bridges tend to snap and fold back onto the nozzle into a blob: it is too rubbery. So the gap or bridge isn't closed. And that blob gets deposited onto the next wall when the nozzle arrives. The accumulation of blobs will finally close the gap, but it is ugly. At least, that is with the PET I have here... So it may take some trial and error to find the right balance. Before doing long prints, make a small test print that will undergo some load, for example a clamp. And try if that survives well in your car, under load. Or try it in a test-environment at the same temperature.
  25. Before ordering on any website, always check if they have an official address listed on their site (company, street + nr, city,...), phone and email, officially registrated business numbers, etc... And then look it up in an official phone directory, and on Google Maps. If you can see the company logo in the street view on Google Maps, it is probably okay. However, if the company is located on an abandoned garbage pile on Google Maps, better be cautious.
  26. Vérifié & revérifié, pas de changements. Par contre, je suis persuadé qu'il y a quelque chose qui cloche avec la plate-forme: si j'appuie avec mon doigt vers le fond, au bord, le plateau descend, tandis qu'a l'avant, il ne descend pas. Comme si le ressort était plus court. Difficile à décrire ainsi. Mais je vois bien qu'en faisant cela, après une nouvelle tentative de calibrage manuel, je peux faire circuler la feuille sous la buse et si je relâche, la buse semble être vraiment en contact avec le plateau car je dois forcer un peu pour faire passer une feuille, ce qui écarte légèrement le plateau vers le bas. Le plateau m'a l'air d'être incliné par conséquent.
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