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  2. I know someone with about 7 S5's and he has never used "one at a time" and never gotten this particular error. Oh and all his printers are busy pretty much 24/7. I think this bug somehow is related to "one at a time" mode but I can't imagine why that would make any difference. "one at a time" isn't much different from the other modes. I guess the way it calculates remaining time for the print job is different. That's all I can think of.
  3. The bearings you can definitely buy 3rd party. I've bought different sized bearings on ebay. They tend to have 3 numbers, inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness (often not mentioned as this is pretty standard). Usually numbers are in integral mm (e.g. 12mm). Finally, some have a flange. I do not know the dimensions of the UM ones. Anyway you can get all the parts you might need at fbrc8.com. fbrc8.com assembled your printer as they assemble all Ultimaker printers sold in USA. You might have trouble finding a part on their website but you can just email them. Include the serial number of your printer and if the printer is new enough they might send you a part for free. Or not. It depends if it's for a spare or a genuine defect. support@fbrc8.com The company that sold you this printer can also get you any spare part but again, you will need to email them. Erin at fbrc8 is part of the support team I think. If not I'm sure she trained them as she knows an incredible amount about fixing UM printers. That's why I tagged her - I'll do it again: @fbrc8-erin
  4. This is common enough that it has a name: "head flood". It's never happened to me but is common on the list. There are 2 possible causes. One not as likely: 1) The door doesn't stay closed and pops open because things are crooked. You can usually adjust the magnets a bit or loosen two of the screws that hold the door together and adjust it so it stays closed better. This is the unlikely cause. Very unlikely. 2) The much more likely cause is that your part comes loose from the print bed when the part is wider than tall. If the part is taller than wide it just falls over and you get spaghetti on top. If it is wider than tall then it gets dragged around the print bed like a hokey puck on ice and you get filament going into one spot of the part and it backs up inside the head. #2 is especially likely since I see you are desperate enough to try blue tape. Blue tape only works if you clean it with isopropyl alcohol to remove the waxy surface that keeps the tape from sticking to itself. Anyway, getting parts to stick to the bed better is a simple but long topic. There are many things to learn. Once you learn all the key points you WILL NEVER HAVE A PART COME LOOSE AGAIN. Ever. In fact you will have to *not* do some of the key techniques as you will be frustrated by how well the parts stick. I demonstrate lifting the entire printer up with a tiny print stuck to the bed. Anyway, my video is long but thorough. At the time I tried to keep it short and even went through cutting out a second here and there to make it shorter. I could do a lot better but it's a lot of content to get through. It's worth it. It will save you many hours of frustration. I explain not just what to do, but why.
  5. Suivant les conseils avisés d'intervenants réguliers de ce forum, j'ai installé Tinker sur une Ultimaker 2+ et je suis en phase de découverte. Quand je lance une impression la température de buse est à 0 et je dois aller la modifier. Pourtant, j'ai auparavant sélectionné un matériau. Est ce normal?
  6. As with a lot of people, I have also been working from home for last few months and unfortunately I don't have an Ultimaker S5 at my place so I can't check. Is there not some free space near the rear? My apologies if I mixed up the Z stage design with the one of the UM3 in my mind. Otherwise I'll ask one of my colleagues who visits the office to give an approximate measurement of top and bottom of the construction. It sounds like you did. And using the correct adhesive is also crucial. There shouldn't be any over extrusion on the first layer like that. I believe that usually means the nozzle is too close or the first layer is too thick.
  7. What is the purpose of "Print thin walls". I've checked it's box and assumed it would print a wall thinner than my nozzle or line width. I hoped "Print thin walls" would print the .2mm walls as .5mm walls matching my line width.
  8. La machine fonctionne! J'ai pas mal galéré à cause d'une résistance chauffante défectueuse: j'ai l'impression qu'elle chauffe de façon irrégulière. Je l'ai remplacée et tout va bien pour l'instant. Je ne l'ai pas jetée, je la testerai de nouveau.
  9. Super, danke für den Hinweis! Da ich aktuell schon 30-40 Stunden Druckzeit für eines meiner "normalen" Modell habe, wäre das tatsächlich eine Katastrophe 😨 Dann wird es wohl doch bei meiner "Bastelei" bleiben... Bis es mal den "echten" Replikator gibt - am besten mit USB-Anschluss ans Hirn 🤑
  10. Hello, unfortunately, for the third time I have had the following problem with the Ultimaker 3 at my institute: the nozzle jams during printing and the print head gets stuck on the buildingplate. As a result, the UM3 keeps printing and "blows up" its own case (see the picture below). This error occurs with different materials (PLA, HIPS) and with different sized printing models. After that the printer was always sent in and repaired, the last time a completely new print head was installed. My question is if someone knows the reason for this error or how to avoid it. The failure of the printer is always very annoying. I would be very happy about your help. Apparently nyrociel had the same problem
  11. Today
  12. Hi Sander, what distance should I set between the cast aluminium bed and the plate on the S5? Or how can I measure 14 mm here? I can't insert a tool or calipers since there is an edge all around. See photo. Then I've had tremendous luck using the z-Offset plugin, even with "difficult" materials that used to lift off the build plate (here the proper adhesion medium did the trick, while squishing the material onto the plate did not). What setting do I need to change to battle the overextrusion of the initial layer, which leads to material build-up and bulging next to the nozzle path? Thanks for your help, Niklas
  13. Ah, OK, I missed the fact that you had a zillion bottom layers. No problem, happy printing!
  14. It does not change it but i think it was the "toplayers 0" " bottom layers 999999" setting that was recommended for printing tabletop minis that caused it. When i use a normal number there it works! Thank you for your support, i was stupid to not see that before but i thought it is the normal behaviour of "Spiralizing Outer Conture" that i saw not a failure from my other settings, i hope you understand.
  15. That gcode is weird, could it be the zoffset thingy that you are using is causing a problem?
  16. It is not flawed, despite your personal experience. Countless of users are happy with it and it works as it should. Otherwise it would be the only thing people talk about online, outside of the couple of reports and issues some people having with it. Because it does have some dependencies, like a clean print core and the correct tension on your build plate springs (14mm). For good adhesion the first layer needs to be squished onto the build plate. An unfortunate side affect is indeed elephant feet. This can be battled by adding a negative value in initial layer horizontal expansion. Hope this helps!
  17. Hello, here is the generated gcode. AG_Test.gcode And also the print profile if you need it. (it is in an .rar renamed to .zip to be able to upload it here) quality_changes.zip
  18. Strange, I don't have PETG, not on the S5, the S3 or the UM3. I am on the latest firmware wit all printers. That you have the material on the S3 is ok, as soon as you connect it with Cura the "missing" profiles are transferred. So in your case there must be a custom material with the material type PETG in Cura.
  19. Noch ein Hinweis zum Überlegen 🙂 Dein Beispiel oben lässt sich ziemlich sicher in einem drucken mit PVA als Supportmaterial, aber du darfst nicht vergessen, dass der Druck dann ewig dauern wird (sicher 4-5x so lange wie ein Einzeldruck) Bei jedem Layer wird gewechselt. Weiters hast du dann im inneren alles mit PVA voll, das dauert dann sicher 2-3 Tage bis sich das alles aufgelöst hat. Weiters ist PVA ein wirklich teures Material. Was ich damit sagen will, es hört sich alles schön an mit dem Dualdruck und so, aber in der Praxis ist dann doch nicht alles Gold was glänzt. Ich drucke persönlich nur jene Sachen mit PVA wenn es wirklich nicht anders geht, mir ist das einfach zu umständlich. Lieber drucke ich Einzelteile und Klebe dann als das ganze mit PVA zu drucken. Überlege dir also wirklich gut, ob du das brauchst und dann auch verwenden wirst. Ansonsten bleib beim UM2+, der im Single Druck nicht schlechter als die neueren ist, wenn nicht sogar besser.
  20. I would like to change a couple of the defaults within the PauseAtHeight.py file to numbers and/or text that I always use (Ex: default to "Layer" instead of "height", default idle temp to 205 instead of 0 - that sort of thing). (If I'm adding stripes to a print and pausing 5 or 6 times to change colors it would be nice if I didn't have to change the same lines over and over.) I can copy the file, rename it, and make my changes but it isn't part of the Cura install. Is there a relatively painless way for me to add it?
  21. I see PETG Generic in both my s5 and my s3, The s5 i might have once added a PETG profile from the market place to Cura, but that's not something i have done in the limited time i have had the s3 and the only profiles from market place i have added to cura now days are ColorFabb wood fill, color on demand pla and XT-CF20
  22. Thanks for your input. I've never seen this tool to set the gap before, shouldn't it be included with new machines if this distance is that important? As I've mentioned, I've never been able to get a successful first layer without tweaking the G-Code via the Z-offset plugin. That's my whole point - to me, a successful first layer means that it looks good and doesn't have elephant's foot and over extrusion. Adhesion shouldn't be achieved by forcefully squishing the filament to the print bed, but by using suitable measures such as brim, raft, adhesion medium and bed temperature (all of which usually work! If they don't, forcing the material onto the glass plate won't either IMO). And for what it's worth, a "slight touch" shouldn't make the x-y gantry flex. In short; the UM auto bed leveling is flawed. Change my mind. PS: I don't have bad intentions or a grudge against UM, but I've never read an answer to this problem that addressed the concerns directly, only hints that I've followed in the first place (clean nozzle etc).
  23. Hallo, mein UM2 hat heute Nacht irgendwann aus einem unbekannten Grund während des Drucks das Filament entweder ausgeworfen, oder in die falsche Richtung geschoben. Der Druck selbst ist noch gelaufen wie er es sollte, nur eben ohne Material. Das ganze ist vor einiger Zeit schon mal passiert aber mit anderen Einstellungen. Hat jemand auch irgendwann diesen fehler gehabt oder kann sagen woran es liegen könnte? Es handelt sich um einen UM2 erste Generation mit Bondtech Extruder, Olsson Block und Tinker Firmware. Die Hardware und Software ist in diesem Zustand seit mindestens 2 Jahren. Für die Einstellungen hab ich noch 3mf Datei im Anhang, es handelt sich aber nicht um die Datei bei der der Fehler auftrat. danke im Voraus UM2WOB_test.3mf
  24. Danke an alle! Mal überlegen was ich nun mache..
  25. I suppose the key lies in nuance. They should touch, and the bed should slightly push the nozzle up to perform the measurement. It is possible that it pushed the bed down all so slightly at the end of its measurement. But it is not supposed to push it down, which is what I understood from your initial message. I believe the space between the Z stage and the heated bed is suppose to be 14mm ideally. Perhaps you could check this too @neute? We do not allow active leveling to be disabled on the Ultimaker S5 because the bed is significantly larger than an Ultimaker S3 or Ultimaker 3. This means that a minor offset can go by unnoticed on an Ultimaker (S)3, but can compromise bed adhesion on an Ultimaker S5. And we know that a successful first layer is key to a good print. It shouldn't be a pain and you shouldn't resort to Cura to work around it. Make sure the bed springs are at the correct tension and your print cores are clean. You can find more tips via this link, via our partner in the us FBRC8.
  26. Thanks for the file, unfortunately, it uses an unknown printer type so I cannot load the project, just the models. With the project, I can't see what settings you are using. Anyway, I sliced the model using my standard setup and the spiralization looks OK. Could you please attach the gcode file? That is almost as useful as the project file, thanks.
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