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  2. ...and your hand eye co-ord is defo looking looking on the mend to me! I got a lot of catching up to do! Im visiting HP Lovecraft material for my next prints! Keep up the massive inspiring good work! CF
  3. Damn you work your printers hard!!. Damn good work too!! well done, I'm trying to paint my new stuff, shouldhave a few things to show soon! Mine have it easy lately! I've been having major problems lately due to tons of rats nests (intersecting verts!), 720 of them!! Had to go back to zbrush to cut them all out! am printing now, but i know it will fail again, just didnt know why before! my s5 print head just parks itself on the right hand side middle area and jitters there. I kinda prefered the out of print area window as this new thing just stops the print but still says its printing!
  4. It migh be a good idea to upload the ultimaker firmware (from github), through the arduino IDE so you know you have a working FW version. It could also be a bug of a fault in the Gcode generated by the slicer. In general the stepper motors and drivers do not need cooling, they stil perform very wel at for example 90 gedrees, and are most of the times spect to still operate at 120 degrees in the case of the stepper motors, so air cooling is a bit overkill.
  5. No, I transfer all g codes to a flash drive (cable isnt long enough to connect to where I have the 3d printer stationed). Yes, I've tries several of the ultimaker defaults and even the custom FFF printer. I even uninstalled, and reinstalled using the ultimaker s5 as the printer.
  6. Today
  7. Well, at first this needs a printer that supports it ("duplication mode" or whatever it is called by the manufacturer). This applies to both, the hardware and the firmware of the printer. Given such a printer - it usually comes with a slicing software that can produce gcode for this mode. There's no "standard" for gcode (AFAIK) - it always depends on the implementation of the manufacturer. So - you have to take a look at the gcode file that is generated by the provided software - or you can simply ask the particular manufacturer.
  8. I also have a old prusa i3 (from 2014) which I recently upgraded with an UM2+ feeder and an e3d v6 hotend. I also use a z hop when traveling from one side of the print to another. The only reason I can think of that a z hop could reduce stringing is that the nozzle is not moving over already printed parts, these printed parts then could stick a little to the remaining plastic inside the nozzle end could sort of "pull the plasic out" and with a z hop this is not the case. This same effect is visible when printing a flas square with some holes for example, when the nozzle travles it oozes a little when moving, leaving spots of filament on the surface. When moving over an object, instead of a surface these become strings, resulting in stringing.
  9. Older versions can indeed be downloaded through github https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags download the right 'asset' at the bottom of the page Hopefully this helps and works
  10. If the text won't show on the bottom layer it might help to flip the model upside down (only if the other side is flat). Most of the times the top layer comes out much better than the bottom layer, because this layer is squeezed onto the build plate, as you can see in your first picture @SirUlrich, the left lide is squished more than the right side. When the print is flipped around the text sits on the top side and this will probably yield much better result, tekst wise. Because of this I always try to print all the details on the top side. Also make sure that the text you want to print does not have smaller lines than the 'line width' set in cura, otherwise the lines will dissapear because they become to small to print.
  11. Hoe kan ik een derde kleur printen met cura/UM3. 2 kleuren gaat prima, maar ik wil een object opbouwen in 3 kleuren? Graag uitleg hoe dat moet!
  12. That is weird because mine does show this setting: (ultimaker S5) Do you have the printer connected directly to Cura? (because of the 'active printer' bit) Have you tried changing the printer in cura(this may also change the active printer) just guessing 😉 When I activated this setting it was already at its lowest (0.7mm) so you can't change it to a lower value but this may be different on your machine.
  13. Hallo @Dim3nsioneer, ĂŒber den Unterschied bin ich mir im Klaren. Der Reseller gibt ja ein Fenster an fĂŒr die Lieferung, auf dieses war das Warten gestĂŒtzt. Wie es aussieht scheint dieses Firmwarethema ja auch nicht so problematisch zu sein wie es sich anfangs las. Ich schau mal was sich bis nĂ€chste Woche noch so tut. 🙂
  14. @Starflashbully, natĂŒrlich hoffe ich, dass Du die Material Station bald bekommst. Aber bitte sei Dir bewusst, dass "available from" und "available on" zwei verschiedene Zeitpunkte sind. Frag doch einfach Deinen Reseller nach dem Lieferdatum; er mĂŒsste in der Lage sein, Dir mind. eine grobe Zeitangabe zu machen. Vielleicht bietet er Dir auch an, die Material Station schon zu liefern wenn Du ihm erklĂ€rst, dass Du Dir des Firmware-Themas bewusst bist.
  15. guys I have been looking for the gcode required to run 2 extruders simultaneously however not printing the same object. to clarify i am not looking for a slicer that would do it for me (though that would be nice) i am simply looking for a gcode that would enable me to independently control both stepper motors of both extruders. something that would resemble: E0 xx.xx, E1 xx.xx
  16. when I load the file in it shows up fine. Things to look at are: does the model fit on your build plate? even if it looks so, watch out for skirt/brim settings that extend the size. is the model too thin? play with the line width
  17. My problem is that I cannot change the "retraction minimum travel" setting. As of now, my printer operates with no retraction at all. The message next to the setting reads, "this setting has been hidden by the active machine and will not be visible". I've tried changing machine settings, uninstalling and reinstalling, I tried asking ultimaker directly.. can anyone help?!
  18. Da es sich um ein Notebook handelt, könnte noch eine der Zahlreichen vorinstallierten Anwendungen ein Problem verursachen, was ich jetzt zwar fĂŒr unwahrscheinlich halte aber durch aus möglich wĂ€re. Habe es soeben auf einem vergleichbaren Notebook getestet, welches eine saubere Windows Installation hat. Auch hier startet Cura wie gewohnt bei CPU Grafik unter Windows 10 nicht. Nach Aktivierung des KompatibilitĂ€tsmodus startet Cura jedoch ohne Probleme. Bitte folgendes versuchen: Sicher stellen, dass der KompatibilitĂ€tsmodus auf Windows 8 steht Cura als Administrator starten (rechts Klick als Administrator ausfĂŒhren) Falls Cura immer noch nicht startet, bitte deinstallieren, danach folgende Ordner Löschen falls noch vorhanden C:\Users\BENUTZERNAME\AppData\Roaming\cura C:\Users\BENUTZERNAME\AppData\Local\cura C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.3 Danach noch den gesamten Inhalt des Ordners Temp, nicht aber den Ordner selbst löschen. Nicht erschrecken, in diesen Ordner befinden sich unter UmstĂ€nden mehrere hundert oder gar tausend Dateien die ausgelagert wurden. Ich persönlich lösche den Inhalt von diesem Ordner in solchen FĂ€llen immer und habe bisher keine negativen Auswirkungen feststellen können. C:\Users\BENUTZERNAME\AppData\Local\Temp Anschließend neu starten und Cura erneut installieren, nach der Installation nochmals neu starten KompatibilitĂ€tsmodus aktivieren und Cura starten Sollte Cura dann immer noch nicht starten habe ich leider keine weiteren LösungsvorschlĂ€ge. Ausweichen auf einen anderen slicer wĂ€re dann die letzte Option, hier habe ich aber nur schlechte Erfahrungen in Verbindung mit Ultimakern sammeln können.
  19. Ok got it 😀 And you cannot choose 3 or 12 for example? I haven't calibrated for a long time but as far as I remember I was able to choose any number from the sheet.
  20. Hey @bruman! Since you seem to be printing okay with normal PLA, keep in mind that PLA+ has a slightly higher extrusion temp. I typically do 220°C versus the default 210°C for PLA. Hope you figure it out! I also hate when people don’t post a solution, so I always make sure to update my threads if I do figure it out!
  21. When I replace my nozzles it will blather about this configuration is not calibrated, so I run the calibration (see attached) I can move the calibration in .5 increments but .1 would be much closer to what I need.
  22. cura goes into "not responding mode" right after opening it up. I had cura 3.x and tried to multiply model a black little rectangle also appeared and then it went into no responding mode. Then I restarted the software (3x version): no help, then I restarted the computer: no help. then I completely uninstalled cura 3.x and reinstalled 4.3 and it still goes into no responding mode right after I double click shortcut. I tried upgrading my intel graphics card driver however it is updated. I tried running the cura with my dedicated graphics card and in 3.8GHz clocking speed and it still goes into not responding. what is going on and what should I do to fix this?
  23. Yesterday
  24. Thank you everyone. I am studying link example. I hope I can make my own plugin.
  25. Let me start off with what I was doing - Making a stl file of a lithophane from 2 different sites to see which would produce a better final product (which I thought were the same settings in the online program as I used on the 11th) Loading files into Cura 4..3.0 to have the file not watertight (never appeared after loading but the plugin to evaluate file would run) Repairing stl files online with MakePrintable.com due to file size and poor cpu/gpu on laptop Loading files into Cura 4.3.0 (they were watertight but still never appeared) Loaded files into Slic3r with no changes and I got the top picture below Now I am trying to print from Slic3r but I am use to (and like a lot) Cura while I try to get help with whats going on Below are 2 files that both would not appear after loading into Cura 4.3.0 and before trying to slice. As you can see in the bottom picture, no dimensions show up for the x, y, z but there is a shadow and you can only select the object thru the edit tab in the upper left. It would not slice even though the option was there (slice in dark blue in the lower right). I displayed the about tab in case that was needed by anyone. I am truly at a loss for this strange occurrence and I know I will feel a little less then when someone points out the obvious for the solution. The last time I used Cura, was on the 11th of Oct and it loaded with no problem. I was able to print (had minor tweaking to do to it). I also loaded that same file from the 11th of Oct and Cura produced an image after loading. I have been trying to do troubleshooting for a couple days, but no luck. I think I went down the wrong path because I though it was a file setting problem. I tried 2 different sites for lithophane making - 3dp.rocks and lithophanemaker.com and got the same result. So I tried a different slicer (Slic3r). Well, Slic3r had no problem completing the task, I just had to figure what settings I needed to change for a lithophane. We will see in a few (OK, a lot) of hours worth of printing (150X150X3.5 w 20mm base with a layer height of 0.1 laid vertically). Please HELP!! felicias mom 2 B&W w trees edited slic3r_flat.stlfelicias mom 2 B&W w trees edited slic3r_flat.stl felicias mom 2 B&W w trees edited slic3r_flat_fixed.obj
  26. Sorry DarthJenius, I should have said look for the plugin because yes it appears there's no search function in there. No problem - I like to help where I can. Especially when it comes to being able to use equipment that has been orphaned by the company that made it. I've gotten a response from the developer of the plugin with some further info on how to force the plugin to use the Replicator 2 profile so will write another post when I've got a chance to do that so that people don't have to hack up the plugin to make it work. In the mean time I'm happy to have been able to help Happy printing! Jesse
  27. Hey @dfrez I recently got a roll of eSun PLA+ Grey as well, and noticed the stringing was so much worse than standard PLA (and I was having under-extrusion issues too which fits with your problems, but didn't notice that at first). I did a full clean, replaced the nozzle with a new one, even replaced the bowden tube, still giving me hassle. I swapped back to standard PLA and that was totally fine. I specifically got the PLA+ because I was printing D&D minis and it was recommended because of the higher strength. I have read through your posts and (even though I am using the standard brass nozzle not a hardened one) I will test the temperature sensor and then see if increasing the temp to 240 will help it print like normal PLA. Thanks for your posts listing your troubleshooting and the updates, I hate it when people fix a problem or find an issue and don't update.
  28. Can someone please have the full version of the CREO 6 Direct Modeling Express please help me export it to a STEP file please ? I have a packages file that is stuck inside CREO and would like to export to Step to work it on Fusion360.
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