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  2. hi.. i want to minimize crossing between two object. because i want to minimize oozing or string . i want to minimize crossing which yellow marked area in attached image. if any tip or guide much appreciate! thanks
  3. Today
  4. hello all i'm using Ender3 with simplify3d and also cura . before i compared printing quality simplify3d and cura and i found cura have more higher quality than simplify3d in my case so i really want to use cura. i can connect usb via simplify3d but i difficult connect with Cura 4.3.0. only what i can see is Save to File which save to sd card for print. anyone tip or help much appreciate! thanks
  5. Yesterday
  6. Here's a picture. It's below the *outer* wall, and yes, I have done that and the hex driver does pass through the plastic hole; I was talking about the small wall underneath the screw inside the feeder.
  7. Please show a photo of before you close it. There should be quite a bit of tension on the spring before you put the 2 halves together. The screw head should be *below* the wall. In other words when fully assembled, the hex driver needs to pass through a plastic hole in the feeder before it's possible to touch the screw head.
  8. Try setting "minimum wall flow" to 50. I don't know much about this issue - you could mess a little bit with line width (set it to 0.35mm instead of 0.4). Also maybe play with "print thin walls". Maybe? @burtoogle is the expert on this issue and I forget what he said exactly but I think you just need the "minimum wall flow" thing. Maybe.
  9. your first post was approved a week ago. Your second within 7 minutes.
  10. I have an Ultimaker 2+ which had stopped feeding, so I disassembled the feeder to clean it out, and now I am finding that the tension spring refuses to re-tension. As far as I can tell it looks exactly like the pictures in the assembly instructions say it should, except that when I close it back up and go to tighten the tension screw, the screw will go down into the nut but this does not have the effect of tightening the spring. The nut isn't stripped, and it was at the correct tension mark when I disassembled it. The ledge at the bottom of the spot for the tension screw is deformed slightly as though the screw has been pressing into it. Does anyone have any suggestions about what this could be/things I can try to fix it?
  11. Over a week old and still waiting to be approved by a mod? BUMP!
  12. https://www.youmagine.com/jegkenderen/designs
  13. I guess this could be a future road map feature, future enhancement somehow - to partition prints maybe...
  14. And now I know! THANK YOU, this may have just saved me a few hrs of my life... Cool
  15. Place feature requests here please: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues
  16. In vase mode you can only print one object at a time. The spiralized mode is a continuous printing mode and that's the reason why they are connected. The printer extrudes the filament all the time during screwing up to the top.
  17. Hi Jakob! Danke fürs Feedback! Um den Chimera+ auf 3 mm umzubauen musst du schon ein paar Sachen machen. Auf der 2. Seite ziemlich unten habe ich das genau beschrieben, wie ich das gemacht habe (inkl. Bild). Hast du das schon gelesen? Um die Anfertigung der neuen Heatbreaks wirst du nicht herumkommen. Da gibt es einige Seiten im Internet, wo du das machen lassen kannst. Mit ca. 100€ wirst du rechnen müssen; dafür gleich aus Titan am besten. Die ist dann sogar besser als die 1.75mm Heatbreaks von E3D, weil die sind nur aus Edelstahl (Wärmeleitfähigkeit). Die Bowden Kupplungen habe ich zuerst mit Epoxydharz verklebt, hat jedoch wegen den hohen Temperaturen im Heated Chamber nicht gehalten. Mit Raumtemperaturen wird es wahrscheinlich funktionieren aber am besten ist, dass du die Kupplungen gleich anschweißt - ist aber auch nicht grad einfach wegen der dünnen Wandstärke. Wenn du sonst noch spezifische Fragen hast, einfach fragen. Ohne Heated Chamber reicht eine normale Wasserkühlung mit z.B. 120er Radiator vollkommen aus.
  18. Hi and this is my first post, so please be gentle! Ive been printing for about a week, printed a number of PLA object and when trying to build 2 vase's in vase mode, Cura strings the two together! Could someone advise me what I may be doing wrong? Many thanks,
  19. I would like an option in the Cura software to update the view of the model as the printer is actually printing.
  20. Let me first says I have zero experience with Cura pre 4.2 but In theory the scrip should work the same. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. IF AND ONLY IF that is true and there is no automatic update function, there should be a "scripts" folder where your instance of Cura is installed. For 4.3 on Windows 10 that folder location is "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.3\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts". In here you should see the script file "PauseAtHeight.py". If so, make a copy of the existing file for safe keeping. In Windows you can "right click, copy" then "right click, paste" the file and follow the above procedure to replace it. Good luck.
  21. Current state is that - more S5 printers suffer the same problem. - It's not just the STL, it's multiple STLs - It's not a certain version of Cura (had the same issue with cura 3.6, 4.2.1 and 4.3) - It's only on the .2 profile (and any change I did, didn't resolve or improve anything, except reducing speed to less than half). The only way I see it: the 6500 EUR Ultimaker S5 isn't able to print 70mm/s on a .2 layer height. ... It has been reported by at least 2 instances to Ultimaker - I hope they'll look into it.
  22. used the repair option in slic3r, now slices perfectly in cura 4.3. Strange thing is, using cura engine in repetier host it sliced ok without repairing.
  23. I bought it several months ago and it is well maintained. Used for very short time. The quality of each products it prints are amazing and I am very satisfied with it. It comes everything with the original box. The printer is located at West Virginia, US. Asking for 2000 USD or best offer.You are welcome to DM me with any questions and concerns. Thank you so much!
  24. New PS should arrive tomorrow. Will install it and after 1 or 2 days of printing i will give feedback if it did the trick!
  25. I used the Lulzbot Cura Edition. There isn't a 4.3. The current version is 3.6.21
  26. Hello, problem has been fixed in Cura version 4.3.0.
  27. Hi everyone, I bought 2.85mm PLA filament (Brazilian brand), and after printing for hours, everything is going well, but I noticed that during printing the nozzle was printing in the air, far from the piece and no filament extruding. Immediately I stopped printing, I tried to do the normal filament removal procedure, but the filament got stuck. I also tried the printer's Move function, but still the filament got stuck. So I opened Feeder and the filament was "choking" inside. I removed the filament and I did the complete feeder cleaning and also printer maintenance. As you can see in the picture, I cut this filament, and you can see that there is a problem with Feeder Tension. Currently, in Ultimaker 2+ Extended, Feeder tension is exactly in the middle and I had never changed. But for this filament I would need to change the feeder tension. In the same photo, keeping the same tension in the middle and leveling the table, I did a first layer calibration test and then I tried to print a small bust, and as you can see it's completely horrible. I would like to know from you what would be the ideal tension for this filament, the marker is in the middle of the feeder. So I have to put the mark up or down to fix this problem? Would it be clockwise to loosen the tension (raising the marker a little)? If so, how much would I need to loosen? Thank you for your help.
  28. The only difference I can find in the newest Cura fast (0.2) and normal (0.1) profiles is the layer height, wall overlap, and the speeds. All the accel, jerk, and other settings look identical to me.
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