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According to the link below, it's time in seconds. I think it's the time since you turned the printer on? If you read the post I link to below, it mentions that there are about 10 temperature samples per second.

Don't worry about the time thing. We've all got stuff to do. Unfortunately my computer is currently out of commission so I can't get to it (hopefully the cable I need will arrive tomorrow). Fortunately my mum's computer isn't so bad because it's made of my hand-me-downs and I don't even need to read my own instructions for how to do it. So here ya go. SphereInSphereDensity.3mf

Just know that that version is 9 years old.

thank you for your response, I have find a easy way to get the temerature. now I have a new question: the time make me confusing. can we change it in standard format?

Leider weiß ich auch nicht welche da passen, aber das ist das erste Mal in meiner Ultimaker-Laufbahn, dass sich ein Extruder-Lager verabschiedet und ich bin da mittlerweile 8 Jahre dabei. Ich habe sogar noch einen ganzen Extruder lagernd, den könnte ich dir eventuell günstig anbieten.

I know this is an old post, but the solution is to use an older version of Cura that allows you to set the com port of the printer. Version 15.04.6 is one version that lets you do this. You can do a Google search to find the download. Hope this helps.

You might have "Ensure models are kept apart" turned on in your preferences. I'm on 5.7, but as long as this is tick box is unticked I can just clip models through eachother without any issues.

Does anybody have any "good" experience when printing with ColorFabb allPHA? I have an Ultimaker S5 and an S7. I have tried many combinations of adhesive/build plate/flex plate combinations - Magigoo PP, ABS, PA, PC. Dimafix, 3DLac, Pritt stick, etc. on glass and flex plate. I still can't get a part to stop curling up either during the print or after the print is finished. CURA settings I have changed are 0deg build plate temperature, 100% fan speed, use of brim and the new alternate wall directions.

Hello, I just follow your steps but to be sure can you send me your file? Then I can compare them in my computer. Thank you, ps: Sorry for late answer I was not working since last message.

Anhand des Lagers, dass noch in einem Stück ist konnte ich folgende Maße feststellen: Innen 8 mm Außen 12 mm Breite 3,5 mm Offenbar finden solche Lager im Modellbau Verwendung denn für Tamiya Modelle (1280) finden sich solche Kugellager. Habe mir einen Satz bestellt und werde berichten ob diese Passen. Die Drucker haben jetzt ein Alter erreicht, bei dem diese Lager an ihre Verschleißgrenze kommen.

My cura 5.6 doesn't let me do that. It always springs the meshes apart automatically. Drop down model doesn't make a difference.

I'm not sure I've ever had a problem with that. I just open the move tool, turn off Drop Down Model and then either enter the values or just drag my objects around by the arrows: If you're going to turn off Drop Down Model, remember to manually set the Z position to 0 if you want it to be on the build plate.

Speaking of that, how do I actually connect two meshes in Cura? If I try to drop a cube on top of a cube, Cura instead automatically moves it to the side. How do I get Cura to let me overlap meshes before slicing?

I would suggest to make sure your bed is as perfectly level as humanly possible (even if you have ABL, that's only designed to account for small variations) and that your Z offset is dialed in as best you can. Not that it looks like either of those things, especially since it's an instant change between fuzzy and good instead of gradual, but it's the best I can think of. I'm just out of other ideas :)

I've never seen any ABS print that cool (unless that's a typo and you meant 260°). I always ran mine at 255°. Until I stopped bothering using it. It would help if you could provide a Cura project file (.3mf, get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) so we can see all your print settings. ABS is very hard to work with. If you're lucky, it has the adhesion of a wet paper towel. If you're not, it has the adhesion of a dry paper towel. It's also so temperature sensitive it warps if you even look at it funny (I put my printer in a tent, second to fourth best thing after a printer with an enclosure). About your print settings: drop the jerk. If I'm going for quality I usually drop it to 4mm/s. This is especially important since jerk is the amount of speed it is allowed to instantly change at a corner. It's highly likely it has very little to do with print settings and more about ABS' lack of adhesion and how easily it will warp. A smaller nozzle won't really print sharper corners, just thinner lines, although that will help with the appearance of sharpness. Remember that a nozzle is round and filament will ooze a little bit so you will never get perfectly straight, flat edged lines. If you're printing straight onto the bed you need to make sure it's as level as humanly possibly even before you run ABL (if you have ABL, far too many Enders to know them all). Assuming you can level it manually (you can't on printers like the E3V3SE). People will suggest various kinds of paper to use as a guide for how close the nozzle should be, back when I had a printer you could level manually I used a feeler gauge at .08mm. However my ultimate suggestion? Don't bother with ABS unless you have a really good reason to. People insist it's stronger than PLA, it isn't, just a little less brittle (if I want something which is less brittle so it can have a bit of bend, I use PETG). Also the fumes from printing it are poisonous. Plus the aforementioned adhesion and warping problems (I've done prints where it won't even adhere to itself). It's a great material if you're using it in an industrial injection moulding machine (Lego uses a secret version of ABS) but not that great to print with at home.

It seems to be the same number of layers, and I don't have any sort of fuzzy mesh on the lower layers. I will keep trouble shooting the problem. Thanks!

I'm too lazy to use @gr5's desiccant method so I just bought a filament dryer from Amazon, not expensive (about AU$75) and just stick my filament in there and run it for a couple of hours before I print and it's good.

My regular PC is out of commission at the moment (since when did motherboards start requiring two 8 pin ATX connectors, and why can't Amazon get it to me next day when I order only 12 minutes after the cutoff time for next day delivery?). Anyway, rant over. Turn off Mesh Fixes > Union Overlapping Volumes.

Have you loaded the "Printer Settings" plugin from the MarketPlace? If you have a "mixing" hot end (multiple-in-1-out) you need to enable "Extruders Share Heater" and "Extruders Share Nozzle". My guess is that when one is extruder is finished for the print that Cura is turning it off. That would be fine for a dual hot end machine but your printer needs to stay hot until the print finishes. Open a gcode file in a text editor and search upward from the end of the file for M104 S0. I'm guessing that a few lines above that will be the last tool change of the print.

Thanks Dustin, After posting, I also realised that the wayback machine would have the original article also - they're both as detailed. A

Hello Daid, I am glad to read this topics, and I am very curious about the part of temperature graph. As we know, um3 use the PT100 for temperature sensor, and we can now use this daten for drawing temperature graph. But I need use this temperature daten for study. so it ispossible, all temperature daten as csv store? thank you, hope you can tell me this!

the "20" command seems to get the more recent temperatures. I suggested you hit the red button to stop those as they just keep going every few seconds. Yeah if you want more than 10 minutes of data it gets more complicated. It occurred to me just now that you could look through the code for that web page (no idea where it is - probably in one of those ".js" files) and the temperature data is almost certainly appended to some array at some point in javascript. You could dump that array after many minutes/hours of collecting data. But I don't know the name of the array or anything - if you aren't a programmer and don't have a good friend who is great at javascript then you are out of luck.

Very thanks! and I just have one queastion: there are also many line 20, here store maybe the actual temerature daten, and in line 5000 just partially. what should I do?

J'ai vérifié et ne vois rien d'anormal. De plus, le problème ne se produit pas toujours à la même hauteur mais toujours pas rapport au pourcentage d'impression effectuée (entre 95% et 98%) Depuis novembre 2023 que j'ai cette imprimante je désespère car impossible de trouver une réponse à ce problème avec Cura même dans différentes versions. A savoir que je n'ai pas ce soucis quand j'utilise Prusaslicer. Mais je ne maitrise pas encore très bien ce slicer et de plus je préfère Cura.

One way to do this would be to add a support blocker, adjust the size so it occupies the part you want to be solid, and then use the per-model settings (cutting mesh) to print that area at 100% infill, causing it to be printed solid.