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Bonjour, je rencontre un problème avec l'ultimaker S5. Fichier en JP. Le volume de mon objet est bien en dessous du volume mais je reçois comme problème "e fichier ne correspond pas au volume de la fabrication ". J'ai essayé: - une rotation avant de slicer, - j'enlevé le support, - Adhésion du plateau None, -Modifier le remplissage et la densité du remplissage, -L'objet est centré au point (0,0,0), -J'ai aussi essayé les paramètre recommandés il avait fonctionner avec la roue en JP, mais actuellement j'ai essayé de refaire la roue, ça ne marche pas. J'ai diminué les dimension (50x50x1,2) sur la roue Toujours le même problème. Besoin d'aide SVP J'ai le Cura 5.7 Firmaware 8.3.1 SupportPhone.stl

it sounds like you have interference despite having decent scores. Considering you have replaced the fan, i would make sure you have not accidentally smashed wires in the printhead. Smashed wires cause noise that messes with the sensor.. sometimes these need to be replaced sometimes simply correcting the routing of the wire will fix it. I understand UltiMaker was out of stock on fans for a few weeks. But if you self sourced the fan, please ensure its the same model. A similar fan for example from amazon will usually not work and generates interference with the sensor readings. Beyond that I would recommend following the final steps at the bottom and contacting support with your log files etc as they can often help find issues or errors. UltiMaker does not provide formal support via the community, but I wanted to make sure information here was accurate and not misleading. Improperly troubleshooting the issue can endup more costly than it needs to be.

How does the system know it has touched the nozzle? Is the capacitive sensor that sensitive? it appears it doesn't detect the touching and carries on up until the Z axis stalls. bd

It is an Ultimaker 3 I have 3 of those, all more or less the same problem, after trying around I will try to get a different brand of filament …. I spend a lot of time cleaning, and calibrating, and because all 3 printers give(almost) the same result with the same settings, I’m excluding a setting (for now) they all run on the same most recent stable firmware, and have the exact same file, leading to the exact same result, with the exact same material, ordered on the same time, so I’m now going to try to exclude the materials from the problem, to see if it stays consistent ….. thanks for the tips! I let you know when i switched it…

reading through the link you referenced (again 🙂 ), the only true thing I haven't fully tested is brand new cores although two of mine are very low hours. I have ordered a new AA and BB to test tomorrow I will update you on the results. bd

Looking at how dirty beadsters printhead is inside.. and the fact that the fan sticker is some reason on the outside of the printhead makes me think the fan is too dirty or even damaged.. If that fan is not running at spec it can cause issues with active leveling. A new fan is fitted ( the sticker is to remind me of the part number because I couldn't get an OE one, which eventually arrived), and I have tried that plugged in and un-plugged, the picture is of cores that have been flooded and cleared and worked perfectly after for a long time before this fault I have new cores and still have the same problem.

not sure why you replaced the capacitive board.. unless the wires were damaged or a flooded printhead damaged it.. the issue is almost never related to that part.. the true sensing is up in the printhead pcb.. the capacitive board is more of a "antenna" to over simplify it. Looking at how dirty beadsters printhead is inside.. and the fact that the fan sticker is some reason on the outside of the printhead makes me think the fan is too dirty or even damaged.. If that fan is not running at spec it can cause issues with active leveling. People often overlook the support article for this.. but statistically it resolves a significant majority of issues. https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667410781005 It is common people skip steps on this article and its usually those cases where what they skipped was the issue.

@beadster same thing happening to me . I've tried with different nozzle in position 1 and 2 . Changed the capacitive board and glass bed . plugged and unplugged the front fan without any change to the Leveling sensor test and value , they are around 1 and 2 . I've manually leveled the build plate , reset to factory and no change at all. So to make it run , i've disabled the adaptive leveling ... by connecting in SSH ... ( not recommended ) I'm waiting on a solution to make this works ... pretty frustrating to see this 9K$ printer not being able to have an adaptive leveling working when my Elegoo Neptune 4 with klipper is able to make a bed mesh and everything for 300$

Hi, so the diagnostic test is low and doesn't change with core changes, fan plugged in or not, it's always between 1.4 and 2.6. on the initial z test the extruder two is lower than extruder 1, the OP describes fault description is exactly the same as mine. the build plate climbs slowly into the nozzle compressing it into the print head, when it reaches nozzle 1 it stops and the Z motor unloads with a load buzz. I have video but i cant upload it to here thanks for the help mike

As a quick addition to the mold thing, I downloaded their models real quick and tested the mold feature on them; it seems to work flawlessly Pre-slice: Post-slice: Specific settings: mold is on, mold thickness 3mm, mold angle set to 90° Edit: and in case of that skull model you have in one of your screenshots, it should also create walls to cut out the eyes. I can't find the model for it, so I can't test it myself, but if it doesn't print anything for the eyes to attach to, move your model up a couple mm (make sure to turn off "drop down model"), and it'll create a bottom that they will be attached to.

Okay, try this: If you're using the basic settings, then set Shell Thickness for the walls to 0.4: If it's using the normal profiles for Creality printers that should be one wall. Or in the custom settings, you can go to the Walls section and set Wall Line Count to 1: That makes sure that no matter what your line width is, it will only make 1 wall. Notice how the Wall Thickness option goes grey because it gets overridden by the line count. If you want it to be one wall but as thick as possible: ignore the basic settings, set the line wall count to 1 like above, and then in the Quality section of the settings set Line Width to 0.6mm. If you can't find the setting, just search for it: 0.6mm is about as wide as you can reliably do with a 0.4mm nozzle (which is what most printers come with). If that's not thick enough, you can use a combination of the line width (don't set it below 0.25mm) and wall count to get it exactly how you want it. Try to go for a few wider lines instead of several thin ones if you can. If that doesn't get it how you want, it'd be great if you could share your Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it set up then go to File > Save Project) and we could have a look at it.

The "Mold" feature under 'Special Modes' might be of use here (it's hidden by default in the printer settings). It'll only print walls that are directly outside of your model - allowing you to literally use it as a mold for your model. Only difference is that instead of using it to cast a part, you'll be using it to cut dough. The default thickness on my end was 5mm, which may be a tad much for a cookie cutter, but you can just tweak that and the wall angle to whatever you need it to be.

Thank you for you help I will update the S5 printer with CC cores

Actually now you're wrong as well. While you are correct about the UMO, UM2, UM2+. The UltiMaker 2+ Connect runs a dual microcontroller system. The motion board is still powered by the ATMEGA but the parent controlling system and what drives the display and networking is indeed a linux based system powered by an onion module. The ATMEGA is running a slimmed down version of marlin that mostly only processes commands from the master linux system. Though regrettably, yes the boot time of the 2+ Connect is very slow, there is not much that can be done about this. Since the release of the UltiMaker 3, and to the current S7. All printers run this dual microcontroller configuration though they have all gotten faster primary controller processor upgrades/memory/etc. This is why a S series (S3,S5,S7) will boot considerably faster in most cases. This is also why its not possible to plug a modern UltiMaker S series or 2+ Connect (or even UM3) into a computer via USB. The printer no longer functions as a client but a self contained host and client.

Thank you for the answer Slashee_the_Cow. Unfortunately, that does not work. That still builds the walls towards the centre and that destroys the shape of the Cookie Cutter. Of course I can redo my cookie cutters and make them as the cutter from Tschojo but I like to learn if there is a way to co what I want with the settings in Cura. If there is a way to make a wall surrounding the item/model. Using the model as what will be the hole in the cookie cutter. I made some screen prints to try and show what I mean. First the shapes I like to make mini cookie cutters from. This is the idea MaakMijnIdee described. Then with the Thickness and the infill set to 0. This build walls inward and that destroys the shape. Last I tried the Spiralize Outer Contour and that is the closest I got only the walls will be too thin. I added a picture from Thingiverse to show a cookie cutter. I borrowed it from Tschojo. The print is Creative Cookie Cutters ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38665)

If @AdamSFX doesn't reply, keep in mind that most resellers will get back to you. It looks like you are in Canada. shop3d.ca is above average in the service department and you could probably get parts from them even if you didn't buy your printer through them. But yes, it will probably cost twice as much to get the part from UM because they will probably sell you the whole PCB with several parts mounted. Also there is a high chance the part will ship from fbrc8 in the US or UM headquarters in The Netherlands to Canada and then to you so it could take a few weeks.

Greg speaks the truth but keep in mind there are hundreds of possible causes for underextrusion. I've listed all the 21 known ones for the Ultimaker 3 in other posts but every printer model is different and the gaps on the topmost layer appear much worse than the layer Greg highlights. steps/mm is never an issue on the UM3 as long as you are using stock feeders.

@AdamSFX My Ultimaker S5 screen is shattered but the screen works great and the touch is also working . Is it safe to remove the display first then the shattered glass ? Does the new display came with the glass screen ? Thanks for your help on this topic

Mit Cura 5.7 bekomme ich Fehler beim Öffnen der .3mf datei, die dann zu einem Absturz in der Cura Engine führen... Mit Cura 5.6 kann ich nach einem anfänglichen Slicing-Fehler das Projekt korrekt slicen, sehe jedoch die von dir gezeigten Fehler leider nicht. Versuche es mal probeweise mit einem anderen Slicer und öffne beim Cura Support eine Fehlermeldung.

Du hast dich wohl mit den G-Codes ein wenig vertan... ;TIME_ELAPSED:493.475547 G1 F2400 E566.62624 M140 S0 M204 S4000 M205 X20 Y20 M107 G91 ;RelativMode G1 Z3 E-2 ;Fast-Einzug und anheben G90 ;AbsoluteMode G28 X0 F2400 ;ganz nach links G91 ;RelativMode G1 E-35 F100 ;Slow-Einzug G90 ;AbsoluteMode M104 S0 ;Hotend auf Null M140 S0 ;Bed auf Null G1 X-10 Y220 F2400 ;Bed nach vorne fahren M84 ;Motoren abschalten M82 ;absolute extrusion mode M104 S0 M205 X20 Y20 ? https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M205:_Firmware_dependent Du meintest wohl G1 oder G0 G1 X20 Y20 um auf Position X20Y20 zu positionieren, da du noch im absoluten Koordinatensystem befindest. Edit: Und wenig später Referenzierst du die X-Achse... G28 X0 F2400 ;ganz nach links Und dann noch ein wenig später fährst du die X-Achse in den negativen Bereich (und wahrscheinlich in den Endstopp) im absoluten Koordinatensystem... G1 X-10 Y220 F2400 ;Bed nach vorne fahren War das so angedacht?

The under-extrusion is most likely the printer itself (knowing which printer we're talking about would be good). I think the first parameter to calibrate (or re-calibrate) is the E-steps/mm. That print does show some serious under-extrusion. The top skin should be nicely welded together with no gaps, and no ridges. To a great extent, that's the problem with the letters as well. If you happen to have used some sort of "single wall calibration cube" to tune the flow, throw it away and just calibrate the E-steps. With the Cura flows at 100% you should get a good print. If the gcode asks the printer to push 100mm of filament and the printer only pushes 85mm then that's under-extrusion and it's a problem. The E-steps being off aren't the only cause, but it's a big cause.

Can you explain anyway? Start from the begining please? There are very many causes and symptoms vary slightly as well. What do you get for a score when you test the sensor? Do you just get "leveling fails" or do you get the one where the height of the two cores varies? How much does it vary by (if you look in the log file)? Did you watch it happen to make sure it switched to the second nozzle (sometimes that is the cause - the lift switch). If the sensor gets a high (bad) score, did you unplug the front fan? You can do that at the rear of the head without taking anything apart.

There are 500 parameters. I don't want to go through them right now. But I will if you post your project file. There is not one obvious parameter to fix this. I have a few in mind but forget what they are called at the moment. I want to experiment. Will take me all of 3 minutes if you can just post the project file. Also you might need to switch to an older version of Cura. Because I have several versions installed, it won't take me long at all. If the STL file is top secret, then please create a custom one that demonstrates this problem so we can take a look at your project file. Please don't post the STL file, I want to see all your current settings and try to duplicate your problem before trying some changes. I need to know your current line width (usually your nozzle size) along with several dozen other things.

If you're in the basic print settings view, just turn Infill Density down to 0% and the top/bottom shell to 0mm: If you're in the custom view, go to the Top/Bottom section and set Top/Bottom Thickness to 0mm: then go to the Infill section and turn Infill Density down to 0%:

Did you find a fix? I have exactly the same issue and can't get a fix, the same as you I have tried all online solutions again and again, also fitted new front fan new glass printing base reverted to older firmware cleaned and checked everything. thanks bd