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  3. Die Sonne muss heute in einigen Regionen sehr heiß gewesen sein.🤔😇 Was machst du den so?
  4. Not terribly reliable using paper. Far better is to get a set of feeler gauges and then set the nozzle to, say, 0.5mm above the build plate and then drive the nozzle around manually and use the feeler gauge to check the height in various places and adjust the height screws as appropriate. Very quick to do. I always print on blue tape so I just add 0.1mm to the height to account for the thickness of the tape.
  5. Do you have pictures of the hotend installation? Dunno, but if you haven't done it yet - try the "socks", those are quite cheap. https://e3d-online.com/products/v6-silicone-socks-pack-of-3
  6. Don't use this... Marlin auto-tune does not work - it never has 🤷‍♂️ I would like to be wrong, but articles that are useful in practice (for this specific task) are very rare... Here is a nice write-up that may help (especially the "Troubleshooting" section): https://forum.seemecnc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=11440&p=106976 no!, yes! 🙂 BTW: The absolute values do not count, the ratio between them is the key. Here is the shortest (but complete) explanation from the originator:
  7. Darauf gibt es nur eine richtige Anwort: "das kommt drauf an...." 😏
  8. Was wäre denn ein besserer Drucker? :))
  9. After much gnashing of teeth, I uninstalled again, and went searching in the user Appdata local and romaing folders and removed all traces of any Cura settings. This seems to have solved the issue for now.
  10. To illustrate... I want to be able to diagnose a print by looking at the artifacts, I'm not there yet, clearly 😛
  11. Hi Guys! I recently purchased an Ender 3 Pro, and I love Cura for a Slicer. But my first layer is super thin, and even though it sticks on the bed, it gets really hard to take out, and sometimes it does weird things on the first layer. It looks like it isn't enough plastic. I've adjusted the bed with the paper pinching technique, and I think I got it right. In all your expertize, who's fault it might be (in the end my fault of course), my slicer settings, my printer assembly, the rubbish plastic we can buy in Argentina, the e-steps? I don't know what else to change. I'm now testing PET-G for the first time, and it behaves the same as PLA. Thanks!
  12. Hi rotorhead, Way to go! Thanks for the update. Regards Torgeir
  13. I’ve added a second extruder and am using a single hotend and with a y-splitter in the bowden tube for color changes. Now I want Cura to call the first tool start g-code and then execute the purge command I have in the start g-code so I’ve added {machine_extruder_start_code} in the machine start g-code which executed the extruder start g-code as intended. The problem I’m having is that Cura is also running it again after the machine start code so it’s trying to advance my extruder that has just been primed 115mm essentially grinding the filament. I’ve tried running it without my custom purge line and upping the number of skirt lines but I end up with bits of filament coming off the nozzle which causes the skirt to stick to the nozzle ruining my first layer. I really don’t want to have to manually remove it on every part, there’s gotta be something I’m missing.
  14. Has anyone experienced crashing issues with either 4.6.2 or 4.7? This started just a couple of days ago, after using the slicer successfully for a few weeks. The opening screen loads up, reports that it is opening the UI, launches the main window, which just stays blank! I reinstalled. Same thing. Uninstalled and removed all configuration files, then reinstalled. Worked 1st time round. Crashed shortly after creating and saving 1st slice. restarting program, UI hangs again. Installed 4.7 beta. Same behaviour. Any tips anyone?
  15. I have an ultimaker 2 With Tinker firmware 17.10.1 and have just fitted a 50Watt heating element. I moved the head to the middle of the bed, almost touching it and with the fans on and then ran a PID auto-tune using the firmware. This gave me p23.4 i1.2 d30.4 but I am still getting a 10 degree overshoot, 8 degree undershoot and therefore a very oscillating temperature for the first few minutes. Searching the internet and people are suggesting figures ranging quite significantly from 5.6 0.35 23 to 12 0.75 55. Is there another way of working this out or has anyone else found a solution that works? I feel like it should perform better but maybe not? I've also looked at the power budget. Default was 175W total 150W bed and 25W heater. Presumably I need to increase the heater to 50W but do I also need to increase the total or is this a fixed value based upon the 220W power brick?
  16. This has happened to me twice now with my Ultimaker S5. I try to print and it seemingly decides to stop indefinitely during the "preparing" phase. The first time the print head stayed in the in the default back left position and the bed never even raised, after waiting an hour with no movement from the machine I tried to abort but it wasn't responding so I power cycled it. As it was getting late I tried printing again but went to bed before I could watch it finish the "preparing" stage. The print head was moving and the print bed had lifted up. However, the print head stayed stuck close to touching the print bed in the back right hand corner. It still says it's "preparing" now 9 hours later and isn't responding to commands.
  17. I am having an issue with floating supports when slicing my print in Cura (4.6.1) when enabling supports over an angled surface. I have experimented with a few supports/interface settings, but have not had any luck getting the bottom of my supports to attach. It seems like Cura is not treating the bottom of the supports as the 'bottom', but instead treating these layers as the side of the support. If I set the X/Y distance to 0, I get a solid interface all the way across (not ideal as it will be hard to remove) Has anyone seen anything similar or have any suggestions to work around this? Thanks in advance!
  18. Hi thanks Geert_2 your advice is very helpful. I have double checked the fan and it carries on running at full speed. I think the issue lies with the nozzle more than anything. Before trying anymore cold pulls I disassembled the print head and looked at the olsson block. There is a large amount of burnt black residue (as pictured) on the screw threads of both components. The coupler is completely fine as it is new. There is a large build up of residue inside the nozzle with some fairly big parts in there. I wonder if it is worth trying to clear the nozzle as it appears to be in a pretty bad state inside, or just ordering a new one? Is it normal for the thread of both components to become so blackened? I have attached some photos, although it is difficult to get a clear shot inside the nozzle using just a phone camera.
  19. Thank you @Dim3nsioneer! You are correct it is just the U3! My apologies!
  20. I have one to but did you change anything in te settings? steps /mm ? so yes what did you change?
  21. During the loading plugins phase of cura, it's loading the plugins as if they are python modules. It could theoretically be possible to find a way to re-load such a module based on changes, but that would complicate the flow (since we can now make the assumption that plugin loading only happens during a single moment of the program). What you can do is use the livescripting plugin. That plugin provides a way to execute python code inside the python instance used by Cura. You can find it here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraLiveScriptingPlugin/
  22. Ah good to know. How do I disabled my flow sensor and the print managed to finish the pieces, although I did start getting over extrusion at 150% flow. Maybe its a filament compatibility issue, also had some minor bridging so i may reduce the head temp. Thank you for your help I will order some of the correct filament today. -Kieran
  23. When the printer is active levelling it has a sensor that is reading the aluminium plate under the glass. Putting an additional 10mm of plastic on top of the glass would probably put it out of the sensors range so it won't work. The only thing I can think of is to put tin foil on top of your 10mm panel. It would have to be without wrinkles and then quickly remove it after levelling (if it works) when the cores are heating to print. The tin foil should be thin enough to not offset your bottom layer any more but may get damaged during levelling.
  24. The temp sensor is different and changed accordingly in configuration.h for the marlin code. I was able to measure the temperature and it is accurate. i was able to get some successful larger prints but small towers still seem to be a problem. On the towers I noticed that the top 10 or so layers below the nozzel will move with the nozzel indicating that they are still super hot. This confuses me, only thing I can think of that would cause this is that maybe the bottom of the e3d v6 has much higher convection heat transfer or that the fan from the hold side is causing airflow to cross the heatsink at the bottom and blow directly on the part (opposite of a cooling fan). The nozzle on the e3d v6 is definitely much shorter in height than the old ender 3 extruder nozzles so the heatsink is closer to the print. However, This problem seemed to continuously exist until I kept on stepping the temperature down so low until it would no longer properly extrude. Speed changes seem to neither help or hurt. pictures are of successful prints but still some overheating type artifacts
  25. I would still recommend to switch to 2.85mm. The entire extrusion train and flow calculations are dialed in for 2.85mm filament.
  26. Use 2.85 or turn off the flow sensor. Why are you using 1.75?
  27. You can't use 1.75mm filament with Ultimaker printers. The filament sensor is ignored the first layer (or 2?). It's not turning the sensor. You can disable the sensor in the menus. But you shouldn't be using 1.75mm filament with this printer. First of all 140% is not enough. 2.85^2/1.75^2 is 2.65 so you should be using 265% for the flow. Doing those 2 things, changing flow to 265% (easier to change in cura, not on display) and turning off filament sensor will allow you to print but you will get bad quality prints and you will have to print slow. But worst, the melted filament will be sliding upwards in the core and can get up to the cool section of the core and cool down and cause a clog in your core and you will have to disassemble the core to unjam it or buy a new one). So now you have to do a 3rd thing: print very slow. Try 20mm/sec. Or even 10mm/sec. Or even 5mm/sec. You will know you are going too fast when you ruin your core. I have a youtube video that shows how to take it apart without destroying it. I guess the speed you were doing on your first layer is a good speed as you didn't wreck it yet. You have a very expensive printer. Filament is cheap in comparison. If you don't have any printers that take 1.75mm filament just throw out the spool or donate to someone who has such a printer. People often complain "I can't get this special filament I need in 3mm". Everytime they say that to me I show them where they can buy the filament they need. One part of the trouble is sometimes it's called "3mm" and sometimes "2.85mm". Don't search based on diameter - search for what you need (e.g. PC/ABS) and *then* try to find 3mm version in the same store. printedSolid.com is good source for filament in USA.
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