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  3. Hello All, I have been creating a Cura printer definition for the Tevo Flash. https://bitbucket.org/lsaunders/tevoflash-cura/src/master/
  4. Hier gab es mal einen zu kaufen, vielleicht kannst Du da mal nachhaken, wie die Erfahrungen so waren. Und irgendwo im Forum hat einer einen UMO massiv umgebaut - bis hin zu beheiztem Innenraum. Finde ich grade nicht mehr.
  5. Hello, I just got my new S5 printers, and am having some problems printing with both Ultimaker PLA and PVA. Basically, printing with only PLA works perfect, but when I try to use both, with PVA as support, the print head with PLA attached to it simply prints air, and nothing comes out. Note that I've tried cleaning it with cleaning filament, switching heads, pretty much anything of the basic solutions. When printing only with PLA everything works great, but when using both it just doesn't extrude. In cura I have the correct options: head 1 PLA, head 2 PVA (both pla and pva are Ultimaker), on the printer the same. Anything that comes to mind for my problem? Thanks a lot! Cosmin
  6. I fixed my issue by selecting Cura's recommended print settings. And after adjusting the setting I found that the print once at a time setting was causing cura not to slice my models.
  7. Alright, I thought it that the message was for the post. But I all makes sens now. Thanks👍
  8. It looks like the PVA ditten stick to the glass plate. There have been other threads about the s5 (assuming that your printer) printing air on the first layers from the second core. Which will result in your case in the PVA not sticking on the rest of the print. Try and "enable prime blob" for the second core (PVA) if it doesn't help. Pull the lever of the second feeder and push the PVA a little bit forwards if possible (until resistance). Do this right when the second core begins to print. "original tip from: Cymon"
  9. The message was displayed because you didn't have 2 approved postings yet. With a new user account the first two postings have to be approved manually, only after that you can post directly without this process. We check the approval queue regularly, sometimes it can take 2-3 hours to approve messages, but it never takes 3 days. But as I said, the message came for another reason, your first posting was already approved at that time and visible to everyone else.
  10. Good to hear you fixed the issue, and thanks for the feedback. Can you check these instructions: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19485-stopped-temp-sensor-bed So you get also the BED TEMP Error?
  11. When I posted the comment there was still a message in the screen saying it needs to be approved but its gone now so that is nice. I changed some setting on the tower and the problem only goes away when I disable the tower(or set size 0). I added a picture where you can see that I can see all of the layer when there is no tower. The travel is just there to change the nozzle. Do you also know why I can't change the 'color scheme' (top left of the pic) to lets say layer height so I can see what the settings on adaptive layer option does? I am on PC
  12. I think the post is approved. I can see it, so pretty sure others can as well. Som times it just takes time to get an answer. especially if it's a weird bug not seen before. (three days is not that long) I would like to give you an answer to the problem, but i have no idea why it dos as it do. Is it the same if you change som setting on the tower. eg. * Tower Size * Minimum Volume ps. what Cura version are you on, Mac or Pc?
  13. I just fixed the issue and Smithy was right! It was the cable in my case. The 2 wires(of 4 total of heater bed cable) that have the rubber wrap had a break in my case. The wire touched the other, but when moving this resulted in the error. I found out by checking the wires with a multi meter. For your case Standard drift if you have checked the Ultimaker support and followed the er02 advice by switching nozzle and heater bed cable to determine what is causing the error. In my case it had to be the cable, but could not believe this because the error was not happening when pulling the cables as I first suggested. You can order a new one at Makerpoint; 210000000681 Ultimaker Heated Bed Cable 1,0 € 13,00 21% € 13,00 Or weld it like I did and it works! Best regards
  14. Hi, I am having a similar issue except on my printer it goes through all the movements fine. I will start printing and when it reaches the 3rd layer the error happens. This only started a few days ago for me.
  15. Hi Guys, Thank you very much for replying so promptly. I will try all of the above and see what happens. It certainly is the beginning of the layer lines at the poor corner, but it seemed to be putting down the plastic ok. Difficult to tell without further investigation. I'll rotate the model on the bed and print it again and see if it leads me anywhere. It it's a stop/start point issue that should maybe confirm it. Cheers Doug
  16. Thank you :) Took me long enough LOL But, it has done a lot of good to work on it to help recover from the issues I had after surgery. I am getting my eye hand coordination back and a bit more clarity in thought and memory. :)
  17. Yes, this is an impressive piece of art, both the modeling and the painting. And the printing.
  18. Hallo Zusammen, ich möchte meinen etwas betagten Ultimaker orginal mit einem Dual-Druckkopf ausstatten. Dabei stellt sich mir die Frage, ob sich der Aufwand lohnt. Auf ebay finde ich zumindest den Druckkopf mit einer Düse. Aus zwei dieser Köpfe könnte ich mir einen Dual Kopf zusammenbauen. Aber bei diesem Druckkopf verstopft die Düse sehr schnell und ist nur sehr aufwendig zu reinigen. Daher meine Frage: ist es möglich einen anderen Druckkopf z. B. vom UM 2 einzubauen, ohne die Achsen verändern zu müssen? Vielleicht hat auch einer von euch eine gute Quelle für Ersatzteile für meinen Oldtimer. LG Kris
  19. The bottoms of my parts generally look like these below. They seem to be squeezed considerably more into the glass, thus the nozzle being closer to the glass. If you could try that, it might improve overall bottom quality (if that would be desired). Concerning your very irregular corner: in addition to the possibility of the glass in that area being non-flat or greasy, as smithy says, I am wondering if this is the begin/end of the layer lines, or the landing/take-off zone if printing multiple parts? In that case I could imagine that the starting and stopping of the extrusion would cause irregularities such as little blobs or a bit of underextrusion? Or maybe a combination of all these? Try watching it closely while printing, through a good magnifying glass, or a macro camera lens. If the sausages would curl up in that irregular corner, it is probably poor bonding or a greasy surface, and/or a too big distance. Notes: - All printed on an UM2, with 0.4mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer height. - The orange cross was a warping test with huge overhangs and a very small bottom area, sort of an inverted prism, so it came partially loose and warped a bit. - The first 3 models are colorFabb PLA/PHA, the last transparent grey/green ones are PET.
  20. Hi, Is your Ultimaker 2 Go still available? And are you able to ship to Australia?
  21. This corner looks generally a bit strange. I would say that your bed is not very well leveled, but the S5 make the active leveling, so this could not be the reason. So maybe your glass is not really flat? You see it in the whole corner, that the first layer is not squished into the glass as on the other corners. (or maybe it looks like that only on the photo) Another issue could be that the glass was not clean enough, some grease from the fingers or something like that. You could try to turn or position the model on another place on the glass, to see if it makes a difference and if the problem is only in that spot.
  22. Hi, I'm trying to create a webapp that allows my customers to slice their model and see it's cost before they decide to send it to me for printing. I had the idea of using Cura since it's open-source - has anyone attempted something similar before? Regards, G
  23. Hi everyone, Was wondering if anyone could help me with this print. It's a very straight forward part, printed on an S5 using ColorFABB PLA/PHA Filament. Looking to model 4 screw holes, and this view is showing the first layer of the model, so the central part is support plastic to be removed. First three corners print great, but the final hole is shown at the bottom... Does anyone have any ideas why might be causing this? Thanks in advance for any solutions to my issue you may have. Cheers Douglas Thomson p.s. As an idea for the whole community, would it be possible to have a page of print error photos which link back to the original question and subsequent answers. This would seem to make sense. If I can see a picture of a similar error I'll know I'm getting close to finding an answer. Just a suggestion!
  24. It is more like the engine humming sound and thought that this sound cannot be the steppers. Then I checked the back fans and they were on full speed. After I aborted the print, the fans went back to normal speed and were not noticeable anymore. I could just feel the airflow. I wouldn't worry about that anymore, the sound is unusual, but certainly nothing to worry about.
  25. Thanks again for doing the test. The two back fans, do you actually hear them as "fan/rotating blades" noise. or is that the engine humming sound also. After the head fan shouts off i have no fan noise. only the. engine sound, or more like sitting in an airplane with you fingers in the ears, background all around humming. I'm only asking to clarify, because I can't hear any difference from the stepper or back fans. (will not say my hearing is unusually) But the sound is all around and not specific to on part. But it is comforting that you also have an "unusual" sound. Then it's not only me anyway, if thats good or bad time will tell 😉
  26. Ah yes, I probably should have mentioned I've had a play with that setting but I found it knocked ~10-20% off the print time but not the 50%+ I'm after for it to be worth it. I really need it to also print some of the perimeter layers at the larger layer and nozzle size with just the external wall to be the finer nozzle. - Ideally using the larger nozzle for 95% of the print (inc outer perimeter layer) and just switching for the 5% that needs the finer nozzle such as printed hinges and threads.
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