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Look into using octoprint to intercept the bed heat ups and replace with the right macro. There’s a section in the octo configuration screen for just this purpose. a couple hints. * read up on storing a variable for the temp so you can put in logic to differentiate between raising and lowering temps. * simpler is better for the above… I’d lower just drop it. * alternatively play with fire and create a hardware solution that switches between ups sourced power and direct line power for bed heating. I like fires. You should probably not do that…

I have my printer (Artillery Sidewinder S1) and Rasp Pi connected to a UPS (backup battery) because I experience a lot of brown-outs and fluctuations. If there is an actual black-out, then the generator will turn on within a minute. While running, the UPS says it can sustain the equipment for about 9 minutes. The problem I am having is when the bed first starts to heat up, it overloads the UPS and after about 30 secs, the UPS shuts off. I have been manually increasing the temperature of the bed buy a degree or 2 and that works fine, but somewhat tedious. (When the printer is running, it's only using about 35% of the UPS capacity, so I don't want to buy a bigger UPS.) I have just added this code to the "Start G-Code" of my profile, and it seems to be working, but I wondered if there was a cleaner/better way to do it. M190 S15 M190 S17 M190 S19 M190 S21 M190 S23 M190 S25 M190 S27 M190 S29 M190 S31 M190 S33 M190 S35 M190 S37 M190 S39 M190 S41 M190 S43 M190 S45 M190 S47 M190 S49 M190 S51 M190 S53 M190 S55 M190 S57 M190 S59 M190 S61 M190 S63 M190 S65 M190 S67 M190 S69 M190 S71 M190 S73 M190 S{material_bed_temperature}; M104 S{material_print_temperature} T0 M105 M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0

I have a filament dryer, which I used then printed again. The results are, well, exactly like before. the last two cubes have been printed with the settings I attached. I'm really not sure what else it could be. I will print again with line width and flow same for infill and support and see what happens. StrangeCalibrationCube.3mf

Back to basics then. Start out with the bed at 50° and no fan and see how it goes. There is a new post-processor called Advanced Cooling Control that you can set "by layer". It will erase the fan settings that Cura may have put in the gcode and then enter whatever you set the fan to. Start out with 10/50 and at layer 10 the fan will go to 50%. You've paid for the filament. There should be someway to get it to stay down.

Unfortunately, I have tried that approach. They weren't particularly helpful saying 3DLAC, brim, 0deg bed temp and 100% fan was all that was needed. I confirmed that they had tried on an Ultimaker machine and they said it was fine. I tend to disagree 😞

When a material is warping that much the advice is usually to bring the bed temperature up to just below the glass temperature of the material, and to use as little fan as possible. Next step would be to heat the build volume. Colorfab recommends a cold bed (0°) and 100% fan so as Slashee says you really need to go back to them and find out what the deal is.

Wir haben ja mehrere Drucker die auch oft Wochenlang ohne nennenswerte Unterbrechung drucken und dementsprechend haben wir auch jedes Teil bis auf das Gehäuse mehrfach auf Lager. Neuteil habe ich direkt verbaut nur möchte ich den mit dem Lagerschaden reparieren wenn möglich. Ist definitiv günstiger als ein Neuteil. Da wir die Drucker 2015 gekauft haben und direkt als das Upgrade Kit auf + raus kam umgebaut haben, sind da schon einige tausend Druckstunden zusammengekommen bevor das Teil aufgegeben hat. Zu erkennen wäre es aber wohl frühzeitig gewesen, hätte ich mal einen Blick auf die Rückseite geworfen, das weiße Gehäuse war ganz braun weil sich das Schmierfett und das Metall als brauner Staub auf dem Gehäuse verteilt haben, sah aus wie Rost.

I've... never even heard of that, to be perfectly honest. I think your best bet might be to contact the manufacturer and ask them for advice, but maybe someone here who isn't me knows what it is and can help you :)

According to the link below, it's time in seconds. I think it's the time since you turned the printer on? If you read the post I link to below, it mentions that there are about 10 temperature samples per second.

Don't worry about the time thing. We've all got stuff to do. Unfortunately my computer is currently out of commission so I can't get to it (hopefully the cable I need will arrive tomorrow). Fortunately my mum's computer isn't so bad because it's made of my hand-me-downs and I don't even need to read my own instructions for how to do it. So here ya go. SphereInSphereDensity.3mf

Just know that that version is 9 years old.

thank you for your response, I have find a easy way to get the temerature. now I have a new question: the time make me confusing. can we change it in standard format?

Leider weiß ich auch nicht welche da passen, aber das ist das erste Mal in meiner Ultimaker-Laufbahn, dass sich ein Extruder-Lager verabschiedet und ich bin da mittlerweile 8 Jahre dabei. Ich habe sogar noch einen ganzen Extruder lagernd, den könnte ich dir eventuell günstig anbieten.

I know this is an old post, but the solution is to use an older version of Cura that allows you to set the com port of the printer. Version 15.04.6 is one version that lets you do this. You can do a Google search to find the download. Hope this helps.

You might have "Ensure models are kept apart" turned on in your preferences. I'm on 5.7, but as long as this is tick box is unticked I can just clip models through eachother without any issues.

Does anybody have any "good" experience when printing with ColorFabb allPHA? I have an Ultimaker S5 and an S7. I have tried many combinations of adhesive/build plate/flex plate combinations - Magigoo PP, ABS, PA, PC. Dimafix, 3DLac, Pritt stick, etc. on glass and flex plate. I still can't get a part to stop curling up either during the print or after the print is finished. CURA settings I have changed are 0deg build plate temperature, 100% fan speed, use of brim and the new alternate wall directions.

Hello, I just follow your steps but to be sure can you send me your file? Then I can compare them in my computer. Thank you, ps: Sorry for late answer I was not working since last message.

Anhand des Lagers, dass noch in einem Stück ist konnte ich folgende Maße feststellen: Innen 8 mm Außen 12 mm Breite 3,5 mm Offenbar finden solche Lager im Modellbau Verwendung denn für Tamiya Modelle (1280) finden sich solche Kugellager. Habe mir einen Satz bestellt und werde berichten ob diese Passen. Die Drucker haben jetzt ein Alter erreicht, bei dem diese Lager an ihre Verschleißgrenze kommen.

My cura 5.6 doesn't let me do that. It always springs the meshes apart automatically. Drop down model doesn't make a difference.

I'm not sure I've ever had a problem with that. I just open the move tool, turn off Drop Down Model and then either enter the values or just drag my objects around by the arrows: If you're going to turn off Drop Down Model, remember to manually set the Z position to 0 if you want it to be on the build plate.

Speaking of that, how do I actually connect two meshes in Cura? If I try to drop a cube on top of a cube, Cura instead automatically moves it to the side. How do I get Cura to let me overlap meshes before slicing?

I would suggest to make sure your bed is as perfectly level as humanly possible (even if you have ABL, that's only designed to account for small variations) and that your Z offset is dialed in as best you can. Not that it looks like either of those things, especially since it's an instant change between fuzzy and good instead of gradual, but it's the best I can think of. I'm just out of other ideas :)

I've never seen any ABS print that cool (unless that's a typo and you meant 260°). I always ran mine at 255°. Until I stopped bothering using it. It would help if you could provide a Cura project file (.3mf, get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) so we can see all your print settings. ABS is very hard to work with. If you're lucky, it has the adhesion of a wet paper towel. If you're not, it has the adhesion of a dry paper towel. It's also so temperature sensitive it warps if you even look at it funny (I put my printer in a tent, second to fourth best thing after a printer with an enclosure). About your print settings: drop the jerk. If I'm going for quality I usually drop it to 4mm/s. This is especially important since jerk is the amount of speed it is allowed to instantly change at a corner. It's highly likely it has very little to do with print settings and more about ABS' lack of adhesion and how easily it will warp. A smaller nozzle won't really print sharper corners, just thinner lines, although that will help with the appearance of sharpness. Remember that a nozzle is round and filament will ooze a little bit so you will never get perfectly straight, flat edged lines. If you're printing straight onto the bed you need to make sure it's as level as humanly possibly even before you run ABL (if you have ABL, far too many Enders to know them all). Assuming you can level it manually (you can't on printers like the E3V3SE). People will suggest various kinds of paper to use as a guide for how close the nozzle should be, back when I had a printer you could level manually I used a feeler gauge at .08mm. However my ultimate suggestion? Don't bother with ABS unless you have a really good reason to. People insist it's stronger than PLA, it isn't, just a little less brittle (if I want something which is less brittle so it can have a bit of bend, I use PETG). Also the fumes from printing it are poisonous. Plus the aforementioned adhesion and warping problems (I've done prints where it won't even adhere to itself). It's a great material if you're using it in an industrial injection moulding machine (Lego uses a secret version of ABS) but not that great to print with at home.

It seems to be the same number of layers, and I don't have any sort of fuzzy mesh on the lower layers. I will keep trouble shooting the problem. Thanks!

I'm too lazy to use @gr5's desiccant method so I just bought a filament dryer from Amazon, not expensive (about AU$75) and just stick my filament in there and run it for a couple of hours before I print and it's good.