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  2. So before all this let me say: if you could please post a couple of gcode files you've printed on it that have had this problem, then we can have a look at them and double check to make sure nothing screwy is going on in there. Is there even a Z limit switch at the bottom? If there is... you shouldn't want to be using it because you don't want to have the plate as low as it can possibly go. On an Ender-3 v2, the CR-Touch only does auto bed levelling (bad name for it), it measures the difference in height between a bunch of locations so it can then be accounted for in the firmware (like making the first layer a teensy bit taller at one point because that part of the bed is a fraction of a millimetre lower than the reference point, usually splits the difference between the first 10 or so layers so that it's not obvious at any particular point). It can't measure Z offset because it can't know exactly when the nozzle is touching the bed, and it can't measure it using its probe because the sensor isn't guaranteed to be at the exact same height on every printer, especially when added after the fact, so the height differential between the nozzle and the probe can't be relied upon. The V3 series has a force sensor embedded under the home position so that when it levels, it can know how close the nozzle is getting to the bed based on the pressure applied (because the probe, when extended, can only be moved back by a very short distance and then when it can't get any shorter and if the Z axis is still going down, it will apply more pressure instead of that pressure being absorbed by shortening the probe), and as the ABL sensor is built into the print head its position can be used much more reliably than an external sensor. I'm not saying you haven't levelled your bed properly, it's just that the surface, while flat to the naked eye, does vary in height a teensy bit across its whole area because it's very hard to manufacture something like it dead flat, no variations whatsoever... and then it goes through wear and tear anyway. How far into the printing process is the second photo taken? A lot of the time, startup gcode will move the Z axis a bit. And if the Z axis is always the same on screen (like for example you set it to -0.5mm and every time you print it's still showing -0.5mm) then it's almost certainly a hardware problem. Creality cheaped out on the... sorry, one of the ways Creality cheaped out on the the Ender-3 V1 and V2 is that on most printers (including the V3) the Z axis gantry is held up on two screwed rods (and they cheaped out on that by using a belt to drive one side instead of having a motor on both), but it's just one on the V1 and V2 so it's possible for the gantry to get off-level, one side higher or lower than the other. If the problem started during a print and the nozzle accidentally hit the print, it could just be that it's lost track of it in the firmware because IIRC it doesn't regularly home the Z axis (it's hella slow, and is expected not to change). You can try running this gcode file to see if it helps, it won't actually print anything, just make it home all the axes so it hits the Z axis switch at the top so it knows for sure where it is on the Z axis, then move it back down to 5cm from the bed. It's possible it might grind a little when it hits the top, that's normal: home_all_axes.gcode If that doesn't fix it, then you have to look at hardware stuff. There are two common fixes to Z gantry problems an an E3 V2: 1: Make sure the wheels on both ends of the gantry are at the proper tension: if you stick a finger on them you should be able to wiggle it to move them up and down a little bit, but only like 2-3 millimetres or so, max (if you want more precise guidance than that, find someone who has depth perception 🙂). If you can't move it at all when you do that, it's too tight and needs to be loosened. If you can move it too far when you do that, it needs to be tightened. They use helical nuts so it's not always a "one way loosens, one way tightens" thing, just play with it until you get it right. And make sure it's as close as possible to the same on both sides. 2: In case it's not level, unscrew the top of the frame and turn the Z axis screw to move the gantry up and then off of the thing entirely. Then put the gantry back on making sure to keep it as level as possible. Use the Z axis screw to move it down a little bit. Screw the top of the frame back on and turn the Z axis screw to run the gantry up to the top of its movement and see if it's level. 3D printers are somewhat fickle beasts and tend to always go wrong in ways you'd be surprised how it could go wrong. As @jaysenodell said, it could potentially be a motherboard issue. Creality, while a lot better than some manufacturers, still don't have really great quality control checks. There's also the fun fact that (IIRC) due to the number of Ender-3s they were pumping out, they couldn't always get enough of their normal motherboards and sometimes used different ones which varied in quality. Please let me know how you go on all of that.
  3. Today
  4. Hello there! I need to print 50 small objects at once, "one at a time" mode so the pullbacks are not killing me, connected by a common brim or skirt. That is to remove them from the printer all together as a single sheet. Currently Cura refuses to slides them if brims are touching each other. Is there a way to do that in Cura? Thanks
  5. This is great. I may try this myself. I have some 1.75mm filament to use up and it's so simple. You aren't really using the heat break feature. It keeps the ptfe around 100C and cooler but for you it is right in the nozzle at ~200C and so it will degrade faster. You should replace it often. Maybe every 500 hours of printing? Maybe 100 hours. The PTFE will degrade at 200C and even faster at 220C. Heat break below. It's steel but it's not much thicker than aluminum foil and the most common place to break a print core. Even during just regular printing, sometimes the nozzle hits the print hard enough to break the heat break.
  6. Wait for @Slashee_the_Cow to comment on exactly what hardware points to check. My E3S1P gantry may be signifcantly different and maybe slop is ok for the E3 Neo?
  7. I think that's a hardware problem. Somthing is loose or slipping. go over everything again from top to bottom. Make sure your gantry Z is secure. On my duel screw ender 3, there is some play in the gantry Z, but the screws are dead to nuts every time.
  8. The Z offset doesn't change on the screen, it is at 0.00 when the print start, i have to manually change the z offset to correct the height after the print start, here's a picture of a mark i made on the threaded rod correctly aligned in the home position, when i start the print, notice how the position of the mark change. (See the black little line next to the opening of the collar on the threaded rod) It does happen to all the g codes.
  9. no. If you are seeing the z offset value changing on the display between manually setting it and running the gcode, you have something very wrong in the printer or in the gode. It is possible that you have a busted mainboard that is corrupting the register (there are a pile of ways this can happen) for z offset or the code has a line it in that setting it (that should be harder to do with marlin which I'm guessing you are using). does this happen with ALL your gcode or only one file?
  10. Hallo, vielen Dank und Entschuldigung für meine verpätete Antwort. Mit der Zurücksetztung des Profils meinst du die Werkseinstellung des Druckers? Mit der Kalibrierung ist die x-Y Achse gemeint? Den Abstand zur Platte habe ich bereits mehrfach eingestellt. Leider immer wieder mit diesem Ergebnis. Für eine weitere Hilfestellung wäre ich dankbar. Gruß.
  11. So since the CR Touch does not do auto Z offset and won't use the Z limit switch, hopefully that will solve my problem. Was that your point ?
  12. Wire printing was removed in Cura 5.4. According to the release notes, it was "broken and barely used". You could try Cura 5.3 (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/5.3.0), or let us know what you mean by "it is no longer working" and perhaps we can help you to (also) get that version to work again.
  13. Hi there. I have made some great prints using that experimental wire mode. With Cura 5.x it disappeared. Running 4.13.1 seems to be no longer possible, so what can I do? I have 4.13.1 still installed, as Cura does not overwrite on updates. But when I try to start version 4.13.1, it is no longer working. Any Ideas? Has anybody also used that model? Regards, Uwe (Germany)
  14. Some more updates - I figured out that my problem was with the 1st feeder original lever. It was not puttying enough pressure on the filament or something. Which is weird because the 2nd one is great. As previously mentioned - The 2nd feeder have a "Lazy Lever" (UM2+ Lazy Lever by sneakypoo - Thingiverse) and the 1st one had an Original one. This is because when trying to change the 1st feeder's lever to a lazy one, it failed to print almost every time. Something got me to suspect the lever again and I printed this one (1.75MM CONDUCTIVE FILAMENT FEEDER for ULTIMAKER by osdoyi - Thingiverse) instead. And it now works PERFECTLY! Three issues though - The filament is VERY hard to insert into the feeder. Almost no play with the new angle, even when on lowest pressure setting. There's no more 2.85mm option as the 1.75mm barely goes in now. The wedges (WedgeBot/TheWedge) no longer work. So I sent a message to the Lazy Lever designer asking for a mod that will make the lever more like the other one but with the lazy part. Unfortunately I'm no great modeler and don't know how to do it myself. So long story short - now it prints great and FAST! With all the friction in the world holding the filament tight, I can now print at speeds of 150-200mm @ 0.2 layer height. Before 70-80 was the max.
  15. Sorry for the delayed reply, I was out of town and far from the printer and PC. As for the heat break you've mentioned - where is it? That's the area just before the nozzle? I got so many problems there, So now I'm just using a longer tube and push it all the way inside the nozzle. Tried 1.75mm nozzles too but the 3mm are somehow better... Added some pics to show you how I converted the printcore. It's orange because the original black parts got broken and I found that it is not getting too warm so it is now printed in CPE and works great. And the tube got replaced with a new one, don't worry 😉
  16. If you just did your first ever firmware install but it did not hurt, you're doing better than I did 🙂 My next suggestion would be "do a factory reset of the settings" - I'm guessing it's somewhere in the menus, I just couldn't tell you where. Oh, and I only just realised I should mention, at least on the Ender-3 V2 Neo (which comes with a CR-Touch preinstalled) but probably any Ender-3 v1 or v2 that the CR-Touch does not do auto Z offset. It exclusively does ABL. I don't know about a BL-Touch, I've never used one. The Ender-3 V3 series does do auto Z offset, but that's because it has force gauges under the bed which measure the pressure from the levelling probe.
  17. The StartUp Gcode is very machine dependent. I used to have separate printers for PLA, PETG and TPU because I wanted different StartUp's depending on the material and speeds. With the StartUp now able to handle logic I'm taking advantage. This makes adjustments to the StartUp per the current Cura settings. That makes it ambidextrous and I now only have one printer defined. ;--------------------------StartUp Gcode G21 ; Metric Units G90 ; Absolute Movement M82 ; Absolute Extrusion M220 S100 ; Reset FeedRate M221 S100 ; Reset FlowRate M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed {'M104 S175 ; Standby while bed heats' if material_bed_temperature_layer_0 > 65 else ';M104 ; No standby'} {'M190 S' if material_bed_temperature_layer_0 > 65 else 'M140 S'}{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Bed wait if over 65 M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Hot End Temperature G92 E0 ; Reset E G28 X Y ; Home XY axes G1 F2700 Z10.0 ; Move Z G0 F{speed_travel*60} X1.0 Y20 Z0.3 ; Move G1 F{speed_print*60*2/3} X1.0 Y200.0 E15 ; First purge line G0 F{speed_travel*60} X3.0 Y200.0 ; Move G1 F{speed_print*60*2/3} X3.0 Y20 E30 ; Second purge line {";G1 F" if "TPU" in material_type else "G1 F"}{retraction_retract_speed*60} E28 ; Retract if not TPU G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 F2700 Z12.0 ; Move Z Axis up G4 S1 ; Wait for booger to solidify G0 F{speed_travel*60} X3.0 Y35 Z.35 ; Move over G0 F{speed_travel*60} X3 Y50 Z0.35 ; Wipe ;--------------------------End of StartUp
  18. I just did my first ever firmware install, however it did not help, i just ordered a cr touch, ill install that tomorrow and see how it goes thanks for your help
  19. Yesterday
  20. Have you tried flashing/reflashing the latest firmware? If there's a firmware file on the SD card that has a filename different to the last one you installed, it considers it new and installs that. BTW: "Improve your 3D prints" is not "Ender-3 Support Forum" so I'm moving this to "third party products & modifications"
  21. On my E3V3SE I find when I do that I have the extruder idling for a while waiting for the bed to finish heating, and the bed heating is a roadblock in my startup code since I like to home when it's hot (it's a PC metal bed, so it will technically be slightly larger when heated, but this is one of my many cases of "it works in theory, so I'm doing it" rather than the "in practice, it won't make a damn difference" line of thinking). My bed seems to take interminately long to heat up (it's probably average), but if I only start heating the extruder once the bed is hot, then I'm waiting for that after it homes and moves into drooling position it takes a while for the extruder to finish heating, so I did this: M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 15} ; Start heating the bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Get the extruder going M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Finish heating the bed G28 ;Home
  22. I have a brand new S7 that is having this issue. When i hit sync, it just spins infinitely. Tried the USB method but Ultimaker does not recognize the material profile. No news on the fix? Running Cura 5.6.0
  23. Same issue here. Window is transparent with Nvidia 550.67-2, Cura and 5* version, ArchLinux, Wayland, Plasma or Gnome. Start either using X11 works fine. Cura 4.13.1 works fine under Wayland. However, running Cura 5.6.0 in Wayland on Debian 12 stable, Gnome 44.8-1, it works fine. A clue?
  24. It isn't an override as such. The keywords in the StartUp tell Cura that the temperatures are being handled. When that is the case the automatic "Prepend" doesn't get inserted.
  25. Unfortunately "One at a Time" is not available for multi-extruder printers when more than a single extruder is enabled. You would need to disable Extruder 2. If you happen to be using Extruder 2 for a model or for support then you are out of luck.
  26. Super merci pour les infos je vais regarder est modifier les valeurs
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