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  2. Ok, Thanks for your feedback, I definitely need to understand how to fix that issue on our side... By any chance, did you use the Ultimaker PETG as well ? I'm trying to switch to this material to replace the T-PLA, which is too limited when it comes to heat resistance.
  3. Ha, I thought he answered "It used to work the way I described. I've done it many times." regarding your screenshot of the 5.7 new version, like "Yeah, I already have that menu for months" haha.
  4. Yes, correct. Easy 90% success rate. Most of the times Fast or Normal Engineering profile. with PVA as support I print up to a speed of 60 mm/sec with mostly TPLA but also PLA. I change Roof and floor thickness to 1 mm, for easy removal within grooves. It does take several days of bathing before it is finally dissolved. If time is of the essence I print all support with PVA. I change the setting Minimum X/Y offset to 0, but I don't think that really does something anymore. I only use the normal support structure by the way, the Tree structure often failed.
  5. Today
  6. Sooo... You actually manage to get high successful rate when using the PVA as "interface support" only, the rest of the support being made with T-PLA ? Because I really won't exceed 60-70% of success when doing so, it tends to not stick the T-PLA for the floor unfortunately. It would help a LOT since it would reduce the PVA printing by 90% probably, reducing also the time, the scars left because of PrintCore changes, etc. Never found proper advices / tips about it unfortunately.
  7. Well it's definitely prettier than a lot of models I've tried to troubleshoot 🙂. Some observations: You put in a ChangeAtZ post-processor to speed up the top four layers? I can't think of any good reason to do that (but feel free to explain your reason, maybe it's just good and I couldn't think of it) I hope this thing doesn't collapse under its own weight at the top because there's no infill. But given how much filament infill would add, I can see why you'd want to avoid it. This thing is going to be weak. The kind of "pick it up from the bottom and cradle it when you move it" weak. Okay, done with the observations. Now the suggestions (and I might be using some of the more advanced settings here so if you can't see them, just search for them): Turn off Travel > Retract at Layer Change: At the extrusion distance and speed you're using, it's not going to be doing the retraction in then back out fast enough. Do this one. I mean it. Any stringing is going to be on the inside of the print, hidden, anyway. Turn off Experimental > Use Adaptive Layers. We want to get a consistent flow rate and adaptive makes it different for different layers. Seriously consider using two 0.6mm walls instead of a single 1.2mm wall: As well as Quality > Line Width, you're going to need to change Walls > Minimum Wall Line Width to 0.6mm and turn off Walls > Print Thin Walls It reduces the flow rate - that makes it easier for the printer to control the flow Retractions will be more effective since it only has to retract half as much filament (by volume) We can put the starting Z seams on the inside wall so if the problem is when it starts a line it'll be hidden. For that you'd need the following settings: Walls > Optimize Wall Printing Order turned on Walls > Wall Ordering set to Inside To Outside Experimental > Group Outer Walls turned off If the problem is when it ends a line, just use the the settings above but with Wall Ordering set to Outside To Inside If it has problems at both starts and ends, then obviously another fix needs to be found Yes, it'll take nearly twice as long to print. Slow print > bad print It'll make it marginally stronger. Like, just so little it's barely worth mentioning. But it's science! The thinner something is, the more likely it is to bend instead of break. PLA is pretty brittle so tends to default to "break" and this probably won't change that, but I'm weird in that I subscribe to the "in theory, it'll help" way of thinking, not caring about the "in practice, it won't make a difference" part Turn down Speed > Travel Speed to 50mm/s. Filament can be a bit clingy, especially when you're extruding a lot more than someone on a 0.4mm nozzle would be, and I've seen travel speeds so high they've literally pulled parts of the model with them, making them warp I'll admit, this will likely make no difference. But your print has so few travels it barely adds anything to the print time so it can't hurt As @jaysenodell mentioned, you could set Walls > Z Seam Alignment to Random but that is sort of a cop out in that you might still have the problems, they just won't be nearly as noticeable because they're not all in one line. It will introduce a lot more travels but if there's any stringing, thanks to combing, Cura makes them all go around the hole in the middle, so they still won't be visible from the outside %!&*ing hoons in their Commodores doing 80 in a 60 zone. Where's a cop when you need one?
  8. I dont share this experience with PVA, I often print complex geometry parts which take several days with Ultimaker (T)PLA and PVA and it rarely fails. The only thing we have trouble with is when the printer unloads the material and reloads it again. Most of the time it then breaks somewhere within the bowden tube. I always cut the filament after it has unloaded to remove all material that has been through a bowden tube. Other problems are mostly because the spool has been within the material station for too long. A new spool generally solves the problem then. I don't tweak the print settings alot. Mostly infill type and density, print speed for (PLA up to 70mm/sec), core temperature, and bed adhesion type. For support I change to PVA when needed and then choose if all support is printed with PVA or only floor and roof. Other than these I tend to stick to the generic presets. Maybe I'm still satisfied because I only have experience with Ultimaker 3 and S5, Bambulab X1E and Ender 5 Max and don't search for the limits of these printers.
  9. How the hell did you get that option before the 5.7 ? 😮
  10. I don't have a Bumbulab at work / home myself, but do have a UMS5. I would tend to approve every single line except the speed single material that I would set to 1 : it's horribly slow and there is nothing you can do to accelerate it, its max flow rate is really poor. You might want to add the "perfect first layer" that would get an honest 5 with UMS5 : I've never ever ever ever failed a single first layer, be it with Polycarbonate, PA12-CF, PETG, PVA, etc. But on the opposite it lacks something about overall design flaws, the chance to get a failed print, which is definitely WAY too high if you use PVA as a daily support. Damn, that thing is horrendous, especially the Ultimaker official one. And the dedicated printcore, the BB, don't seem to help at all. It will jam so often, it will trigger the flow sensor, it won't stick to itself, to PLA, it... It's endless. You really have to have proper "basic" simple shape, with very classic parameters, and a re-dried spool to ensure a long print to success. Unfortunately, this 2 printcores configuration is the reason to be of the UMS5, there is nothing else that set it apart, nothing, except maybe that incredible first layer. So yeah, I would mitigate the overall review of UMS5 with a note on the PVA / 2 printcore configuration that is an absolute must BUT it will work only time to time and will lead to a lot of frustration. And since, apart from that and the first layer, the print speed is atrociously slow and will have ghosting even at 25 mm/s + very expensive spool + very expensive printer at all + quite noisy + really not ergonomic + multiple errors + CURA that tends to be the best AND the worst slicer sometimes + build quality issues, etc, it's hard to recommend except when, well, Soluble Support. I'm really looking forward a Bambulab IDEX. And I need to see how a Prusa XL would not do exactly the same job as the UMS5 while also correcting most of it flaws by a good margin.
  11. Yep.. that was me. 1.0mm noz for big tubes that eat entire 1kg spools at a go. I'm dumb. I found the problems to be Retraction extra prime amount - 1.5mm3 SLOOOOOOOOOOWWWWW DOOOOOOOOOOOWN ... this is for PLA Print speed - 50mm/s (my normal is 80mm/s which will make slashee call me names) ZSeam aligment - Random Outer wall wipe distance = 0 Layer height - 0.6mm I get a textured surface (ridged) but no holes in the layers. If you see underextrusion middle of a layer you may need to increase noz temp to help the booger string flow. I wound up at 200. The two biggest factors were print speed (slower is better) and the prime amounts (there is more than retraction prime, that's the only one I needed to change). Let me know if I can be of any help.
  12. I just wanted to post here that i've *FINALLY* solved all of my Ultimaker 2's warping issues. I've always had a theory that the open top was just too much for thermal management of prints. Over several years, I noticed that closing in the top with painters tape helped control warping and greatly improve bed adhesion. Whelp. I ordered one of these https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805493131735.html and installed it last night. Immediately did a print, and had absolutely zero ABS warping for the first time ever. *HIGHLY* recommended. I have no connection or affiliation with that aliexpress seller, or the manufacturer. For the price under $100, I wish I bought one years ago and wasted less of my time messing around with "free" solutions.
  13. I've been using the S5 since it's release and upgraded to pro bundle when that was released. I've been quite happy with it. It does sometimes come with errors especially when it becomes older (>3 years with an average of at least 60h printing per week), but after a while you will know how to fix most of them. We also have a BambuLab X1E since a few months, it does print faster, but it also comes with errors, less though. In general I really need the water soluble support material (PVA) for decent quality complex geometries, I use the "Support for PLA" from Bambulab, but it takes a lot of time and effort to get it off (if even possible) in small corners and grooves. So if I had to choose 1 printer, I'd still go for the S5/S7 pro bundle, but the second printer would definitely be a Bambulab. I've attached my findings so far, if you have questions, let me know.
  14. Ok, Great thanks! It used to work the way I described. I've done it many times.
  15. As a designer, I have always been very interested in 3D printing technology. Recently, I was fortunate enough to use Ultimaker 3 (used in conjunction with a MIRACO 3D scanner), and I have some experience with its use and problems encountered. First of all, let me say that the experience of using the Ultramaker printer is great. The printing speed is fast and the accuracy is very high. I can print complex models of my designs in just a few hours without worrying about accuracy. However, some problems were also encountered during use. 1. Material selection. Since the Ultimaker printer can use different kinds of materials, I tried several different materials to print different objects, but found that some materials were not suitable for printing complex models and were prone to clogging. 2. Print size restrictions. Since the object I need to print is relatively large, but the printing size of the ultimaker printer is limited, I need to divide the object into several segments for printing, and then splice them together. But the final effect doesn't seem to be very good. 3. Some minor problems, the printing base is not firm, the printing level is uneven, etc. These problems do not affect the overall printing effect, but it does take some time to debug. The overall experience and effect of using ultimaker3 is quite satisfactory. Of course, some minor problems also require certain experience and skills to deal with. If you have any good suggestions or sharing, please feel free to discuss~
  16. Also I just remembered that @jaysenodell (I'm pretty sure, anyway) has been working with bigger nozzles lately (even if not quite that big) and notice that mention and possibly have advice.
  17. Thank you very much. I will try that.
  18. FSR_2024-03-27 .3mfHere is the file.
  19. I agree, that API flag is likely your best bet for an alert on filament directly. Do you also have an alert for the printer status? There is a parameter exposed to the API that will tell you if a printer is stopped mid-print, such as when filament runs out. That seems like a worthwhile alert trigger as well, particularly since it would also catch other issues that require operator intervention.
  20. If you could provide the Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) that might help, since I can look at the settings and where the Z seams are and such to see if anything strikes me as odd. Although looking at your pictures, it seems like your project has a cross section something like this? \_| |_/ You could always cheat. Since it seems to be the inner section giving you problems just do it separately in spiralize mode (no Z seams at all!) and glue it to the other piece 😉
  21. yep understand all that, perhaps I should use the material empty flag on the api as the trigger for my alert email. The printers will sit there for days until someone tells us that it is out of material, if thats mid print it can be an issue. I have a dashboard that shows us the amount remaining on all the slots across the fleet of printers, but without an accurate measure on the tag, its not very reliable.
  22. I didn't even know there was a material empty tag. The machine definitely does not use the amount remaining on the spool in any functional way. What it has is a sensor just inside the hole where you poke the filament into the material station. When the material is pushed in, it trips the sensor and the machine reads the tag to see what you just stuck in it. As the print is running, if that sensor trips back the other way, that means the tail of the roll just passed the sensor, so the machine takes that as empty and does the unload cycle on the remaining filament. The inside of the material station is such that if the machine kept printing past that point, the material could get stuck in there, so that's why it won't print the last meter or two of filament.
  23. The material remaining on the spool tag is only read for display purposes then I guess. If there is an end of roll sensor in the material station, the remaining field on the tag could be whatever you like, its only going to affect the display bar. As it is now I have a printer which when queried via the api is showing remaining amount of 0 yet is happily printing away. I guess the empty flag gets set when the end sensor is tripped. { "slot_index": 2, "material_guid": "44a029e6-e31b-4c9e-a12f-9282e29a92ff", "direction": 0, "material_selection_source": "RFID", "material_insertion_datetime": "2024-03-25T00:41:23", "status": "loaded", "material_empty": 0, "material_remaining": 0, "material_remaining_mm": 0 }, Kind of makes it hard to try and report when machines are empty.
  24. It takes well over a meter of filament to get from the spool in the Material Station to the print head, maybe even more than 1.5m, which amounts to more than a few wraps left on the spool at the end. One might hope or expect that it would just keep pulling the filament in until it actually ran out at the print head, but it does not. As soon as the tail end of the filament passes the sensor at the entry point, the machine considers the material empty and whatever is inside the machine gets pushed back and usually coils back around the spool. I don't know if the amount left in the machine comes out to 40g, but it doesn't seem like an unreasonable number. I doubt they deliberately put extra on the roll for that purpose though, particularly since you could be using the filament from the back spool holder (which has a much shorter path) or on another machine like a 2+. More likely, in a high speed filament production line, it is just easier to err a little on the heavy side, rather than risk shorting a customer and facing a complaint or regulatory action.
  25. thanks, I've taken some readings and found below. New full spool - NFC reads 750000 New full spool - scale weight 1019g Empty spool - scale weight - 229g That leaves 790g of material, yet the tag is programmed with 750g of material. Is this an extra 40g that can't be printed because of the length to feed up the bowden tubes? I'll measure a few more semi-used spools and compare scale weights to nfc readings and see if there if the 40g difference is consistent. On more than one occurrence, we have had the printers say material is empty, when there looks to be quire a few loops of the spool left.
  26. It can be hard to tell sometimes whether it's underextrusion at the start or the end of the layer, but try increasing your wipe distance to 0.4mm and see if that makes a difference. And remember, small scale testing is your friend: You don't need to print the whole thing each time. Just part of the handle, because it's visible the whole way down. The mechanics of Outer Wall Wipe Distance: It's not actually very complex. It stops pushing out more filament when it gets back to the Z seam, but then moves a bit past it so any filament left in the end of the nozzle can fill in the gaps.
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