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The two aren't mutually exclusive. Not all cows have spots. They just need to be a colour that blends in. Or any cow could just jump in a bath full of paint. Monoscopic vision has its advantages. It means a stealth cow couldn't fool your depth perception (like those "magic eye" pictures) to appear to be in a different location than they actually are. Depends how long until you plan to put it back in. You need to keep it moist. Use some preservative free eye drops if it's going to be a while.

@Slashee_the_Cow - This one has questions. It might be a regional thing but don't cows run in "herds" rather than "hordes"? Would a stealth cow have to change the color of their spots? A chameleon cow? Also (just so I'm clear on this) would keeping an "eye out" for a stealthed cow actually work? I mean their stealthy and hard to see right? Logic would seem to indicate that removing an eye would cut the possibility of actually seeing a stealth cow just about in half. Would I need a pirate patch to cover the hole where the missing eye used to be? I'm going fishing now. These things will probably keep me awake.

Easy for you, Difficult for me with my fat fingers, but I got it. There's actually a much better video on youtube:

did you have any solution to this? I have a similar issue

There's a (reasonably) easy way you can increase the wall thickness on the sleeves with the whole piece being a single model. Here I've combined all the parts into a single STL file: Now we need a cylinder - you can whip one up in most programs in about five seconds or just use this one I whipped up in OpenSCAD in about five seconds: cylinder.stl Now add the cylinder to the scene: These things are the same colour so it's going to be impossible to see which is which... we're turning it into a modifier anyway, so with the cylinder selected open the Per Model Settings tool and click the third button at the top: Don't worry about all the values there, we'll get to them later. But for now, our cylinder is transparent so we can actually tell the two apart: Okay, it's a bit big. And in the wrong spot. We need to make sure it's in the same place as the gear, so click the gear and open the move tool: It's the first object I added to the scene, so it's in the centre by default. So now we just move the cylinder to the same position, click it and in the move tool enter the coordinates 0, 0, 0. It's still too big, so open the scale tool and turn off Uniform Scaling. Set the X and Y values (in the text box) of the diameter of the area you want to change and and lower the Z to make it a bit shorter (it's alright if it's a bit taller than your gear it doesn't matter): Now if we look in the preview view the whole model has the same walls: (and that transparent bit at the top is just the cylinder we're using as a modifier) Select the cylinder, open Per Model Settings again: All those 0 values showing in yellow means "this isn't being changed". But we want to increase the wall thickness! Set it to whatever you want. I want 2mm of walls! Now if we look at the preview... that's one phat centre: You need to group the gear and the cylinder modifier like I showed earlier. If you want multiple gears in one print, group them first, then multiply the group. I'm attaching the one I just did but please do it yourself, it really helps the memory to practice doing it yourself. CCT_SingleGear.stl CCT_SingleGear_Modifier.3mf

Hi all, Stripped this from the github UM3 assembly as I need to make a couple up (the second hand machine I just bought had nuts and bolts in place of this captive nut - meant I had to strip down the LHS of my Ultimaker to reattach the feed unit.) Please see attached dimensions to save you the work. I'm not going to bother stitching in the teeth, just hot melt glue it into place. Admin - if there is a better title, please feel free to change it. Regards, A

Easy, Old one pushes out, new one snaps back into place. Went looking for the part number, found this instead. https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667417570859

The main reason I went this way was so that I could increase wall thickness on the sleeves without increasing wall thickness of the whole print. If I redid the model as three separate pieces within the same model, would I then import the 3 models into Cura and then group them together.?

Merci je vais essayer ça 🙂

Thanks so much for your guidance. I will give it a go tomorrow. Regards Brian

Mine has settings for 40, 45 or 50° (C). Too much hotter and some kinds of filament can start to melt. Mine actually has pluggable holes in it for filament to come out (it holds two spools) so you can keep it in the dryer while it prints (since I have my printer in a tent I just use some spare Bowden tubing to get it through one of the cable holes). The minimum time setting is six hours, which I should probably take as a sign, but I start printing when it's been in there 2-3 hours and haven't had any problems (even in an Australian summer where the ambient humidity can reach 100% - it's a good thing I have no idea what that's a percentage of, but I guess it doesn't mean "the air is water"). */me looks at both files side by side* (yours left, mine right) Printing Temperature: 225 > 240 Printing Temperature Initial Layer: 230 > 245 Initial Printing Temperature: 225 > 240 Final Printing Temperature: 225 > 240 Infill Flow: 105 > 100 Support Flow: 110 > 100 Initial Layer Flow: 110 > 105 Retract at Layer Change: On > Off That's about all I can see from having the settings open side by side 🙂 Didn't there used to be a plugin where you could export profiles as HTML or something? I'm not sure what you're expecting when it comes to stringing, but you'll never "solve" stringing with PETG. It's just stringy by nature (more so if it's damp). Ideally you get it down to the point where all you need is pliers (easy to grab a bunch of strings and pull them out), some wire snippers (to get bits on the surface), a craft/hobby knife (for awkward places you can't get the wire snippers into) and possibly some cut-resistant gloves (if you're as clumsy as me, although I managed to cut myself through them anyway).

Create a cutting mesh (here's one example of where I posted a tutorial) that's the size of the hole you want to make, then in Per Model Settings, click Select settings and find Wall Line Count, Top/Bottom Thickness and Infill Density, set the first two to 0 and the density to whatever you want: It basically makes the area inside the cutting mesh a different object. In this case, an object with infill, but no walls or top/bottom. (The walls and yellow skin beneath it are part of the main model) @kayakbabe probably a bit late now, but if you want to delete the top 30mm entirely, make the cutting mesh cover that area and set all of those values to 0.

Please post the specs of your mini computer. It might not be capable of running newer versions of Cura for some reason. I'm guessing if it only has 32GB of storage (probably eMMC) it probably has a criminally low amount of RAM.

Hi, Reviving an old thread as I think that this may be the issue. I'm a trade cabinetmaker, first year fitter/welder qualifications and a qualified engineer. I'm reviving an old UM3 and returning it to original specs - stripped it down a few times on the bench, and the local agent and I are on speed dial at the moment for spares. When I removed a feeder, there was a single nut and washer behind the case (muttered curses when I heard the nut fall inside the case). Fully stripped the LHS of the case down to retrieve it. There was also a 4 pin socket coming from the printer enclosure into the void behind the feeder, wires running down to the main board, with no corresponding electronics in the feed unit. I assume this 4 pin socket was for the now redundant filament sensor? A

*pats on shoulder* Good job. Ah, but you never know when the cow might be near. I hope to be at some point in the next few years. That could mean tomorrow, or it could mean February 2027. Keep an eye out. And WoW portrayed it pretty well: Tauren rogues are so good at stealth you never see them.

If you could post the Cura project (.3mf, in Cura get it read to slice then go to File > Save Project) that might help. But if you have support turned off, Cura will just slice things that will never print successfully and not give a stuff: In your case it's not bridging because your walls are round and bridges can only be straight. Looking at the size of the model, it could probably never do bridges that long anyway, especially with PETG (it's too stringy and is just going to stick to the nozzle if there's nothing else for it to attach to, like existing model). You can submit a feature request if you'd like though (make sure to include a copy of your model). Why do you say you can't use support with PETG though? I find it comes off with only a teeny bit more hassle than PLA, and then there's just some strings to get rid of. You want support that's hard to get rid of, try printing TPU at an angle.

I had a whole bunch of stuff that I wrote up before I dug a bit into your project file and saw that each printed part consists of three model files. This is, to use the technical term, bad. Cura is clearly slicing them as separate objects: They should all be combined into one model file (easy, plenty of software that does it, and it guarantees it's in the right place). But I will do the irresponsible thing and tell you how to do what you're trying to do. You're trying to avoid this, right, where objects aren't quite aligned (on the right)? Open the Object List at the bottom left. For each part of the same set: Click each part individually in the object list, so only that is selected: Open the move tool and input some co-ordinates manually. In this case I'm putting it pretty close to the location it already was on the build plate: Now repeat the process for the other two parts but make sure you put in the exact same co-ordinates for each one. Now click the first part in the object list, hold CTRL and click on the other two: (not a great screenshot because the object list isn't big enough to show them all - I just helped someone with that lol) Right click one of the selected objects in the list and click Group Models: Repeat for each other set of models you want to combine. Now if you move one part, the others move with it. If you need to change the settings for one of them, you need to right click the group in the object list and click Ungroup Models: Then after you've made your changes, group them back together. Next time, use one model instead of three. Also I can't help but notice that the centre cylinder especially isn't round: By my count that's about 32 sides. You can even see it in the preview, instead of being round you can clearly see where it changes angle each time: The effect isn't as bad on the inside though. Or maybe this could be part of your gear design or something. I don't know. A couple of other things: If you're sticking a pre-existing item (like a metal rod) through these, you need to look at Experimental > Slicing Tolerance. This determines which way Cura will round since an object's size is generally a multiple of the line width and minimum line width. Speaking of which, go set Walls > Minimum Wall Line Width to 0.24mm, that can generally be done on your average printer. Anyway, when the model isn't the exact size of what Cura can print, it determines how it rounds. Middle means it rounds to nearest combination of lines, but this can mean parts of your print will be bigger than the model. Inclusive makes it always round up, which means the print will always be at least as big as your model, meaning any holes will be the same size or smaller than they are in your model. Exclusive makes it always round down. This means your print will only be at most as big as your model, meaning any holes will be the same size or bigger as the one in your middle. Go set Mesh Fixes > Maximum Resolution to 0.1mm. This setting is mostly to deal with older printers which can't keep up with a bunch of tiny movements so end up moving slower which resulted in overextrusion. Printers these days can do better. I usually set it to 0.1mm. It's hard to demonstrate the difference graphically, but hopefully I managed to pull it off: The brightly coloured lines are from the preview with the maximum resolution set to 0.1mm. You can see they follow a rounder path than the others, although it's only going to be so round anyway given your edges aren't exactly round themselves (you can see the individual faces):

At least you can get thumbnails working. But don't worry, it's already been submitted as a feature request. Probably several times.

I still have to check the Ender-5 firmware, install what is required (if anything), and set up and learn the Sonic Pad. That will be all day Saturday, probably. The attached 3MFs looks okay. For starter temperatures, I will set the nozzle and bed temperature settings to 230:100°C. I should probably try this print right away and check what's going on. The dimension are supposed to be about 40 X 1.5 mm. If I really want to go for it, I can test the file named "pair," with the 0.2mm gap. And I can double check the speed settings and set them slower than 4:20. CE5S1_28_cup.4x4.3mf CE5S1_28_4x4.pair.3mf

It would be nice - I currently run 7 scripts just to get thumbnails working for my setup. Small Thumb (for device) Large Thumb (for device) Small find and replace "thumb" with "png" Large find and replace "thumb" with "png" End find and replace "thumb" with "png" Small Thumb (for fluidd) Large Thumb (for fluidd) It'd be great to combine those consistently consistently settings into a single script/addon

I have 4 gears to print and wish to include a reinforcing sleeve in the centre. I need to make sure that the sleeve is exactly central to each gear rather than judging by eye. Is there a way to make sure both items are concentric before slicing? Cura 5.7 Thanks Brian CCT_4XSmallGear_Tube_Shaft.3mf

Okay, very funny. But I will be using my 0.2 mm nozzle. Super sharp outside corners are very important. I had no bed adhesion or nozzle problems with my 0.2 mm nozzle on the Ender-3 — printing on a glass plate with Magigoo (and it had no enclosure). I would pour the Magigoo straight out of the bottle, and use a soft tooth brush to spread it around. On the Ender-5, I just hadn't prepared the glass plate properly, I believe. Today, I just finished cleaning the glass bed for my next Ender-5 attempts: I coated the bottom with some thermal paste using a 1" metal spatula (< 40 grams), and let it sit a few minutes. It leveled itself. I placed the glass plate onto the printer bed, it slid around very nicely, and I subsequently clamped it down. Nothing oozed out the sides (yet, at 100 °C). I applied the teflon tape to the nozzle threads, a very tiny strip (a couple wraps at about 3 mm wide). The tape is resistant up to 260°C, it says. The nozzle screwed in nicely at 230°C but I haven't printed anything yet to see if it works. I hope it doesn't leak. I didn't torque it down to the umpteenth force, like I usually do, and it still leaks (occasionally). I will try using spray adhesive on the bed first, then move onto other adhesives. The Magigoo is a little sloppy, especially best to completely start from scratch after each application or two, three max. I will report back on the results after a few attempts, probably in a couple days. Thank you so much for your advice, I really appreciate it !!! I will definitely scale down the array to a 2 x 2. Maybe I'll set up different files and print four of them under different settings at different locations on the print bed. I really thought I could just repeat what I did from the Ender-3 days, but I guess not. I thought I would get lucky soon enough.

I ran a quick print with those settings and support turned on. It definitely improved the stringing problem, but didn't solve it completely. I'm curious what setting you tweaked?

Mijn zoon (13) heeft waarschijnlijk abusievelijk een verkeerde firmware update gedaan. Volgens hem stond het hele LCD scherm vol met U4 meldingen. Connectie via USB niet mogelijk. LCD is blauw (zie foto). Fan draait wel (hard als voeding aan staat, zacht als USB is aangesloten). Verder helemaal niets. Is er een oplossing voor dit probleem? Met vriendelijke groet, Sabri

"... the nozzle hit the object while passing from ..." I am not a fan of using "Z-Hops" but for some models it is unavoidable. There are several causes of the nozzle hitting a print. The two most popular are: Depending on the Infill Pattern, the infill can develop high points that are above the layer height. Enabling "Connect Infill Lines" can help with this. Feather edges develop and warp upwards (like when closing large horizontal holes). Enabling "Z-hop on Retraction" can help a lot. I usually set it to 0.50mm.