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I had a whole bunch of stuff that I wrote up before I dug a bit into your project file and saw that each printed part consists of three model files. This is, to use the technical term, bad. Cura is clearly slicing them as separate objects: They should all be combined into one model file (easy, plenty of software that does it, and it guarantees it's in the right place). But I will do the irresponsible thing and tell you how to do what you're trying to do. You're trying to avoid this, right, where objects aren't quite aligned (on the right)? Open the Object List at the bottom left. For each part of the same set: Click each part individually in the object list, so only that is selected: Open the move tool and input some co-ordinates manually. In this case I'm putting it pretty close to the location it already was on the build plate: Now repeat the process for the other two parts but make sure you put in the exact same co-ordinates for each one. Now click the first part in the object list, hold CTRL and click on the other two: (not a great screenshot because the object list isn't big enough to show them all - I just helped someone with that lol) Right click one of the selected objects in the list and click Group Models: Repeat for each other set of models you want to combine. Now if you move one part, the others move with it. If you need to change the settings for one of them, you need to right click the group in the object list and click Ungroup Models: Then after you've made your changes, group them back together. Next time, use one model instead of three. Also I can't help but notice that the centre cylinder especially isn't round: By my count that's about 32 sides. You can even see it in the preview, instead of being round you can clearly see where it changes angle each time: The effect isn't as bad on the inside though. Or maybe this could be part of your gear design or something. I don't know. A couple of other things: If you're sticking a pre-existing item (like a metal rod) through these, you need to look at Experimental > Slicing Tolerance. This determines which way Cura will round since an object's size is generally a multiple of the line width and minimum line width. Speaking of which, go set Walls > Minimum Wall Line Width to 0.24mm, that can generally be done on your average printer. Anyway, when the model isn't the exact size of what Cura can print, it determines how it rounds. Middle means it rounds to nearest combination of lines, but this can mean parts of your print will be bigger than the model. Inclusive makes it always round up, which means the print will always be at least as big as your model, meaning any holes will be the same size or smaller than they are in your model. Exclusive makes it always round down. This means your print will only be at most as big as your model, meaning any holes will be the same size or bigger as the one in your middle. Go set Mesh Fixes > Maximum Resolution to 0.1mm. This setting is mostly to deal with older printers which can't keep up with a bunch of tiny movements so end up moving slower which resulted in overextrusion. Printers these days can do better. I usually set it to 0.1mm. It's hard to demonstrate the difference graphically, but hopefully I managed to pull it off: The brightly coloured lines are from the preview with the maximum resolution set to 0.1mm. You can see they follow a rounder path than the others, although it's only going to be so round anyway given your edges aren't exactly round themselves (you can see the individual faces):

At least you can get thumbnails working. But don't worry, it's already been submitted as a feature request. Probably several times.

I still have to check the Ender-5 firmware, install what is required (if anything), and set up and learn the Sonic Pad. That will be all day Saturday, probably. The attached 3MF looks okay. For starter temperatures, I will set the nozzle and bed temperature settings to 230:100°C. I should probably try this print right away and check what's going on. The dimension are supposed to be about 40 X 1.5 mm. And I can double check the speed settings and set them slower than 4:20. CE5S1_28_cup.4x4.3mf

It would be nice - I currently run 7 scripts just to get thumbnails working for my setup. Small Thumb (for device) Large Thumb (for device) Small find and replace "thumb" with "png" Large find and replace "thumb" with "png" End find and replace "thumb" with "png" Small Thumb (for fluidd) Large Thumb (for fluidd) It'd be great to combine those consistently consistently settings into a single script/addon

I have 4 gears to print and wish to include a reinforcing sleeve in the centre. I need to make sure that the sleeve is exactly central to each gear rather than judging by eye. Is there a way to make sure both items are concentric before slicing? Cura 5.7 Thanks Brian CCT_4XSmallGear_Tube_Shaft.3mf

Okay, very funny. But I will be using my 0.2 mm nozzle. Super sharp outside corners are very important. I had no bed adhesion or nozzle problems with my 0.2 mm nozzle on the Ender-3 — printing on a glass plate with Magigoo (and it had no enclosure). I would pour the Magigoo straight out of the bottle, and use a soft tooth brush to spread it around. On the Ender-5, I just hadn't prepared the glass plate properly, I believe. Today, I just finished cleaning the glass bed for my next Ender-5 attempts: I coated the bottom with some thermal paste using a 1" metal spatula (< 40 grams), and let it sit a few minutes. It leveled itself. I placed the glass plate onto the printer bed, it slid around very nicely, and I subsequently clamped it down. Nothing oozed out the sides (yet, at 100 °C). I applied the teflon tape to the nozzle threads, a very tiny strip (a couple wraps at about 3 mm wide). The tape is resistant up to 260°C, it says. The nozzle screwed in nicely at 230°C but I haven't printed anything yet to see if it works. I hope it doesn't leak. I didn't torque it down to the umpteenth force, like I usually do, and it still leaks (occasionally). I will try using spray adhesive on the bed first, then move onto other adhesives. The Magigoo is a little sloppy, especially best to completely start from scratch after each application or two, three max. I will report back on the results after a few attempts, probably in a couple days. Thank you so much for your advice, I really appreciate it !!! I will definitely scale down the array to a 2 x 2. Maybe I'll set up different files and print four of them under different settings at different locations on the print bed. I really thought I could just repeat what I did from the Ender-3 days, but I guess not. I thought I would get lucky soon enough.

I ran a quick print with those settings and support turned on. It definitely improved the stringing problem, but didn't solve it completely. I'm curious what setting you tweaked?

Mijn zoon (13) heeft waarschijnlijk abusievelijk een verkeerde firmware update gedaan. Volgens hem stond het hele LCD scherm vol met U4 meldingen. Connectie via USB niet mogelijk. LCD is blauw (zie foto). Fan draait wel (hard als voeding aan staat, zacht als USB is aangesloten). Verder helemaal niets. Is er een oplossing voor dit probleem? Met vriendelijke groet, Sabri

"... the nozzle hit the object while passing from ..." I am not a fan of using "Z-Hops" but for some models it is unavoidable. There are several causes of the nozzle hitting a print. The two most popular are: Depending on the Infill Pattern, the infill can develop high points that are above the layer height. Enabling "Connect Infill Lines" can help with this. Feather edges develop and warp upwards (like when closing large horizontal holes). Enabling "Z-hop on Retraction" can help a lot. I usually set it to 0.50mm.

Ok I just realized I used the stock TPU setting accidentally instead of your tweaks. I'm shocked that it even melted enough to do anything at 210 degrees. I'll print one with your settings.

My dryer gets to about 110F, which does seem cold to me. I didn't unspool any filament and I left it in for 8 hours.

Hey All, I've come across this issue where cura tries to start the walls mid air when it could easily start from where there is already material (yellow circle) as you can see in the picture i enable bridging but that doesn't keep it from starting mid air, I can't use support as I'm printing with PETG. Is there any existing settings I could try to make it start from one of the fins of the impeller? (yellow circle) if not this would be an awesome feature for the next update 🙂

Could be done with a postprocessing Script, or a script .

The suggestion has been made to delete the log files in %appdata%\cura. I have attached the log files from the successful execution of v5.3.1 (please note that stdout.log is empty, and so this app refused to attach it?). I then deleted them, and installed v5.7.0, which, not unexpectedly wouldn't start. However, it *also did NOT create* any new log files while attempting to start. So, deleting the log files in %appdata%\cura did not fix the problem, and in fact v5.7.0 doesn't even get as far as creating a log file. Perhaps the "debugging" was left on, and the offending call is to a logger? stderr v5.3.1.log

i have been searching for this too. Maybe one solution would be to design a boss on the surface you want to fill from, have the boss att the top when printing and pause/stop the print at the last layer before the boss

Installing up to version 5.3.1 works fine. Including installing it to a custom location, in my case the D drive. I'm installing it onto an Alfawise Z83 tiny PC, that lives in the garage with the 3D printer. I access it by remote desktop. The PC only has 32GB of internal storage, barely enough for Windows 10 Home (WinPE version), since Windows is a disk hog, so I have installed a 128GB SSD via an internal USB port, HDD D:\, and put all my applications on D:. If you try to install v5.4 and up you get the attached error message: Error message from 5.4 and above.pdf This message results from a call to a non-existent handle in the QTWidgets DLL, distributed with the version. If version 5.3.1 is installed, it can be started correctly. If v>5.4.0 is installed *on top of* v5.3.1 (same directory), version 5.3.1 won't start, and throws the same error message. Installing on top of another installation isn't kosher, but it is an interesting experiment showing that the QTwidgets DLL is the problem. It should be noted that I had v5.7.0 running on this PC. This PC has been used this way since v4.5, or so, and I just added the new versions as they came out. When I added the 128GB SSD, I damaged the OS image, and had to replace it. Since then I have been unable to reproduce the functioning installation. Nevertheless, v5.3.1 installs and runs *every time*, v>5.4.0 never runs after installation. My installation of Windows 10 Home is completely up to date, so this isn't a Windows staleness issue (polemics aside). I don't have Python installed on this machine, but the error is the call to a non-existent handle in the QTwidgets DLL, not Python. There is clearly a problem with a call to a non-existent handle in the QTwidgets DLL distributed with versions >5.4.0.

Merci Alain_D de m'avoir aussi conseillé 🙂

👍

Bonsoir GregValiant, Merci pour votre réponse. J'ai imprimé 2 objets, et les impressions se sont très bien passées, jusqu'à 100 %. J'en ai tenté une 3ème mais au 3/4 de l'impression, la buse a tapé dans l'objet en passant de la tour d'amorçage vers l'objet. Du coup, mon objet s'est décollé. Le problème d'arrêt de la température à 98% de l'impression est donc apparemment résolu et cela grâce à vous. Depuis 5 mois que j'ai cette imprimante, personne n'avait su me donner LA bonne solution. Je croise les doigts pour que les prochaines impressions n'apportent plus ce problème ! Un ENORME merci à vous 🤩 Je saurai à qui m'adresser en cas d'éventuels futurs problèmes ☺️😉

I'm not afraid of the cow. (I'm far enough away!!)

Look @Slashee_the_Cow!!! I didn't say it!

I see the issue you are talking about above. Very strange. I tried your 3mf file in cura 5.4.0 and it sliced fine. I noticed 2 things: 1) Layers 158, 174, 250 were fine 2) Only top/bottom layers should be yellow and for me only top/bottom layers were yellow. But you show yellow layers in the screenshots above! For me the layers were "infill" which is orange. So something is very strange with your version of cura. I think this may be a known bug. Anyway I strongly recommend you install and use Cura 5.4.0. It's okay to have multiple versions of cura installed at the same time.

Ich möchte nach dem Druck das die X Achse auf -20 fährt. Habe schon etliches ausprobiert aber beim beenden des Drucks fährt ganz nach links, und dann auf die Position 0 Wie kann ich das ändern. Mein Momentaner G-Code G91 ;RelativMode G1 Z3 E-2 ;Fast-Einzug und anheben G90 ;AbsoluteMode G28 X0 F2400 ;ganz nach links G91 ;RelativMode G1 E-35 F100 ;Slow-Einzug G90 ;AbsoluteMode M104 S0 ;Hotend auf Null M140 S0 ;Bed auf Null G1 Y220 F2400 ;Bed nach vorne fahren G1 X-20 F2400 ;Bed nach links fahren M84 ;Motoren abschalten

Yes sorry, As it is not anymore compatible I've removed it from the Marketplace.

Hi @Cuq Cause of this message? "The given author does not exist."