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I created two parts that were near the max X limit (setting is for Ender 3 Max Neo 300x300) and the slicer won't accept it. The original was 298mm in the X direction and 175mm in the Y direction that it wouldn't accept.so I reduced it down to 285mm and it still wouldn't accept it. I then brought it down to 253mm, no luck. However, if I scale the 253 model in Cura to 95% it will slice. The full size version slices with no problem in Creality Slicer and two others. The project I attached is the 253mm version. Exhaust vent bottom modified.3mf

click the object in the SLT, then scale it down by 1000. make sure uniform scaling is checked. What software was the STL created in?

I bought a brand new macbook air with m3 chip. I tried to open different stl files, but all files were opened in wrong size: 79323.375 mm by X axis instead 79 mm I tried to decrease files and slice, but I received a warning "Unable to slice". I tried different cura versions from 5.4 to 5.7.1

Not OP but I can hopefully help explain the issue more. I've been having the same issue through multiple versions of cura, I think the first time I messed with it was somewhere around 4.9, and I recently updated to 5.7 and its still behaving the same. I don't know why, as some prints I slice with concentric top and bottom layers behave as intended, and the layer is one continuous concentric line, while other times it seemingly decides at random to split up that layer and print it out of order. Ill attach my current profile and a model this happens on, not sure if you have the time to check or even get notified on this thread though. CE3PRO_Umikot54 - Stand Lug.gcode forumexample.curaprofile

Hi guys, Firstly, apologies for my "purge tower" description but you obviously understood what I meant, I'll just decribe it as tower from now on. Thanks for the responses. Whatever is giving it's not the bedplate. I have two Geeetech A10M's (you're right, cheap compare to a S5 but trying to find a decent dual colour printer sub £500 isn't easy, one is a standard stick-one sheet that comes with the unit, the other is a magnetic bed with a PEI plate, on only one occasion did the PEI plate move, practically ripped the plate off the magnet. I'm not joking about the tower not budging, it's rock solid. Especially on the stick on bed plate. I don't know what Geeetech use but my prints (and tower) are so well adhered I have to use a craft knife blade to get them off the bed (before your ask, no my Z offset isn't too low, even after the bed has cooled back to ambient temperature). I used to have issues with the towers knocking over but I increased the size to about 35 diameter and put a brim on them and haven't had much of a problem with that since. As for retraction I've turned it off, a peculiarity of the A10M is if your filament is retracted, the other side fills the gap and just causes jams as the two are so close to the nozzle. I know exactly what you mean about getting blobs, I had a CR-X until it died and this used to leave a length of filament on the tower about a millimeter in diameter and about 5mm long on every swap, almost looked like a sonic the hedgehog but these are definite round blobs about 6-7mm spherical diameter. I've no video but I have attached a 3mf file if it helps First attempt failed but would let me delete it so tried again so there may be two attached). GA_R3_14th Silver Dock Base.3mf GA_R3_14th Silver Dock Base.3mf Dock Base Apr24.3mf

I'm guessing a much less expensive printer than an S5, with a magnetic PEI/PC plate like my Ender-3 V3 SE. It would still be pretty damn impressive to be able to pull one of those plates off though (unless your magnets are exceptionally weak).

Okay so because I have too much time and/or refuse to not take everything as a challenge, here's a project file for a grid with (I hope) 0.2mm wide lines with 4mm between each wall, 0.1mm high (1 layer), I guessed you folks might still be using little nozzles, I can make a fatter version if you want, printed entirely as infill. I think it's changing the flow rates at intersections but it's definitely not making travel moves to avoid them: It's a UCP so you'll need Cura 5.7 to load it. UCP_grid - 5x5 0_2mm width 4mm gap.3mf

Pictures or a video wouldn't hurt either. As slashee said, prime/purge towers are meant to look sloppy. Whenever I use it it's usually completely covered in oozed blobs of breakaway - which then don't end up on my proper print. Where it gets weird is that the blobs interfere with your print head enough to the point where it's pulling the plate with it. Prime towers are generally pretty thin in diameter and should just fall over if you apply any real sideways force on them - the amount of adhesion you would need to your build plate would be pretty impressive (ofc this is with my specific printer setup, which is an S5 with a heated glass build plate)

We were finally able to get my coworker to connect to the printers. It looks like when he created his account it signed him into his own, personal workspace. Cura could not load any printers because that workspace did not have any printers. When he signed in a few weeks later he was prompted to choose a workspace; choosing the shared workspace allowed him to immediately connect to our printers. Hope this helps others!

Walls will never overlap while printing, if they reach a line they've already done they'll travel to do another line. Infill will overlap because it's not there to look pretty. Going over (or through) an existing infill line will result in overextrusion, which likely means either a lump or the excess filament goes around and makes your corners even more round. Definitely worth a shot though.

I’m be been thinking about this. I’m assuming the corners are actually walls being printed as single extrusion. Meaning the nozzle is moving though the 90deg while extruding with no stop. I noticed that infill just prints straight lines overlapping at the intersection. I wonder if a grid infill with the right wall density would get you better 90s. Not sure the other properties would suffice, but perpendicular lines meet at perfect 90s.

Vielen Dank, werde ich ausprobieren.

Jep. Es machte für mich jedoch nur wenig Sinn da die Jerk-Änderung nach dem Ende vom Druck aufgerufen wird.

I'm sure there are some people crazier than you or me out there who are working on that exact thing. Crazy thought I just had: could you make something with as perfect a corner as possible, about equal with your layer height (as long as that's thinner than how far the nozzle) stick it on your bed precisely in position and make the filament use that as a mould for the corners? Although I guess that would only work for a layer or two, tops... maybe not the most practical idea. But hey, I'm trying! We're awesome people making awesome things. Of course we're amazing, and we get collectively more amazing as people learn how to do things like you are!

Hello, So the noise still persists to me also. I would like to mention the following: - Core 1 - CC 0.4 new - Core 2 - BB 0.4 new (tried with Aa 0.4 the same result) - Nozzles clean - Build plate leveled and cleaned - Weirs are correctly positioned and no damage - Lift switch calibration calibrated - Tested with front fan plugged and unplugged, no difference in noise - Fan bracket alignment correct Noise level 30-60

Here are the latest updates on this case. yesterday I replaced the Z-Nut and did a testprint. Sadly this did not solve the problem. Strange thing is, the lines are getting clearer and clearer after each attempt of making the Z-Movement smoother. they are now +- 4.3 mm appart from each other. The new linear Z bearings arrived also yesterday. So this will be the next step. Is there a guide on how to replace them? As it looks, the bearings are pressed into the bed so the risk on damaging something is high on my oppinion. Any guidance is appriciated.

I watched two great videos on 'pressure advance' aka 'linear advance' after watching videos on setting up Sonic Pad. And it seems the corner will have a radius of some significant amount. This would be a tip diameter of 0.2 mm or less in a perfect world (I imagine), or if I added a little more speed relative to the extrusion rate and temperature maybe the longitudinal axis can be stretched out a bit — by fifty percent? OR, perhaps I can machine a square orifice "tip" as the final step in the extrusion, attach a plate to a 0.4 mm tip — in a more perfect world, and get 90° corners down to 0.001 mm radii (at like 350°C 450 mm/sec). I'm night-dreaming. 😹 I'm printing the Sonic Pad test tower stl now. The printing is very quiet but it takes at least ten hours to complete (if nothing goes wrong). I'm waiting and I will probably have to print 1 - 4 more over the next few days if I'm going to be doing any crazy stuff. Thanks for all your help on this. I think I'm on the right track, the 3D printing community is amazing!

It would really help if you could share your Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project). At least knowing what printer you have would help 🙂 I'm not sure if you're using the term "purge tower" correctly 😕 A purge tower is what a multi-extruder printer prints in a corner usually to get the new extruder ready when before it starts printing with it. It's completely there for function and doesn't matter if it looks like crap. I'd be very surprised if your nozzle was able to grab or push the model with such force as to move the print bed (unless the magnetic force from the bed is so weak it couldn't even hold a paperclip). Skipping a step or two on the motor when it hits a blob is something which might be possible if you don't have your belt tensioned correctly. You might also want to check your setting for Travel > Retraction Extra Prime Amount: if it's retracted the filament, that makes it push a bit more than was retracted out to make sure there's enough pressure in the nozzle that it can start extruding as soon as soon as it's supposed to, but it can also result in overextrusion. I've never needed it, but it really depends on the printer (and you're more likely to need a little bit if you've got a Bowden extruder just because of how long it takes the filament to react to changes). Also if Travel > Retract at Layer Change is on, it'll be doing that every layer, and if it's overextruding a bit that effect can sort of build up. Without a project file or anything to go on it's really hard to try and make informed suggestions.

À gauche l'impression côté plateau et à droite l'impression de l'autre côté la taille voulue est de 12.25. imprimé avec une d12 230 cura 5.7.0

Most people seem to have issues with towers toppling over. hat's not my issue. I'm printing a piece and it has a band of a different colour mid-way up and another near the top. My problem is when this colour change occurs it's leaving big blobs of filament from the band colour on the edge of the tower, each layer in a slightly different position around the edge of the tower so eventually there's a few rings of these blobs. What seems to be happening is when the band colour comes in, the hotend pauses over the the edge of the tower, after purging the filament, the tip oozes and a blob forms, the hotend then goes on to do the new layer, the blob then cools. My problem then becomes that at some point during this repeating process the hot end catches on one of these blobs which protrude above the current layer height of the tower with such force that it either moves the magnetic bed plate of it skips a tooth on the drive belt then from that point on I have a step the alignment of print (see picture) and the print is ruined. sometimes it dislodges so much it's printing in mid air for part of the print and then the old birds nest appears. It never blobs on the primary colour, only the secondary colour. I've tried different filaments, same issue, The first couple of times it happened I had the filaments at different temperatures (only 5 degrees) and I thought the temperature change was what was causing the pause. So I matched the temperatures of both filaments but I still get the pause, the resulting oozing and the inevitable blobs which in turns results in the bed shift. My towers are solid, they don't fall over but they're still causing me a great deal of grief and many a ruined print. I tried swapping to Prusaslicer, the towers are far superior but I just can't seem to dial in the print settings to get as good a print finish as I can in Cura. I a perfect world I'd have Cura but with Prusaslicer's towers, Alas not an option, can some please tell me where I'm going wrong with Cura.

There is a post processor called "Search and Replace". You would need two instances. Search = M204 Replace = M8008 and Search = M205 Replace = M8007 Those will work as long as the units are the same and the parameters are the same. Cura will use the S parameter for Accel. Other parameters for Accel would be X and Y for each axis or P and T for print and travel. You might have to get fancy with the regular expressions if there are numbers between the parameters. Jerk is by axis so it always uses X Y parameters. I think Search and Replace will start at the first layer (raft or model) but you'll need to check to make sure. Search = M204 S(\d*) Replace = M8008 P\1 T\1 Use Regular Expressions = checked would go from M204 S1000 to M8008 P1000 T1000

Versteh jetzt nicht ganz Falls es um das geht M205/M204 ist von Cura generiert, das sind die Befehle für der Ruck/Beschleunigungs Einstellung! Ich habe keine Erklärung warum er beim Filamentwechsel auf X-20. fährt und am druckende nicht. Hast du schon mal den gleichen Wert wie beim Filamentwechsel gefahren wird X-20 Y20, auch am druckende versucht, vielleicht gibt es Begrenzungen in der Firmware? Und versuch auch mal ohne G28 X0 und vielleicht einfach mal zum testen statt X-20. mal X100., fährt er überhaupt was? Mein Gedanke ist du schaltest vorher das Hotend aus, vielleicht hat die Firmware eine Funktion das bei ausgeschaltet Hotend nicht gefahren wird, bzw. in G1 gefahren wird. Du musst jetzt einfach durchprobieren, Sachen ausschließen, ich besitze den Drucker nicht daher kann ich nichts testen. So in etwa: G91 ;RelativMode G1 Z3 E-2 ;Fast-Einzug und anheben G1 E-35 F100 ;Slow-Einzug G90 ;AbsoluteMode G1 X-10 Y220 F2400 ;Bed nach vorne fahren M104 S0 ;Hotend auf Null M140 S0 ;Bed auf Null M84 ;Motoren abschalten

Hi all, Cura uses M204 to set acceleration and M205 to set jerk. My printer uses M8008 for acceleration and M8007 for jerk control. At the moment, I have to manually set global jerk and speed in the machine start g-code. Is there a way to have cura use the correct g-code commands for speed and acceleration settings in a cura profile?

Hi @Faf666, Yes, the display have this glass included, anyway here's their web site: https://www.dlcdisplay.com/ You just send a msg in this website. Thanks

Yes. No, you use your laptop for slicing and connecting to the running instance at your mini-pc via LAN and web browser. It is a bit tricky to set this up but it is possible to do if you don't want to use a Raspberry Pi (what I would suggest to do as this is how it works best. Try to find a used model 3). Maybe a good point to look at for some ideas: https://community.octoprint.org/t/setting-up-octoprint-on-windows/383 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10IZ1zE2Gww Edit: I forgot one link that is also mentioned from the community: https://github.com/jneilliii/OctoPrint-WindowsInstaller