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Excellent! Many thanks!

Thanks for listening to my rant. Morning woes when I am constantly wanting to love/utilize the program, but not become a pro at clicking notifications, aha. Anyway thanks for explaining that, and the plugin suggestion. I was going to ask/suggest... if it's not a solvable problem, then at least we can do is "help" it, in an easier way than not. I'll check out the Mesh Tools, sounds nice... I think I was somewhat aware of the unit/conversion issue, especially regarding STLs and more generic formats. Hrm, please forgive my abrasive questioning then 😉 I guess the simplest idea would be to add two int and string settings in Cura... for 'default scale', and 'default units'. Most of the time I think we're all dealing with the same in each of our projects, as we like to work. DOWN WITH NOTIFICATIONS! 😉

That's a pretty good rant. No CAD programs know anything about "units" in the sense of millimeters, inches, whatever. A number is simply a number. When you draw a single line and then "offset" or "copy" it over to the side "1.00" away, the CAD app doesn't care if it's 1 nanometer or 1 lightyear. It just knows that the distance between the two lines is 1.00. A program like Blender may have a standard unit which might be centimeters or feet or millimeters or inches. Ya just don't know what it does internally or what effect the export utility might have. When you bring a model into Cura and have to scale it to get it to the correct size, then the "scale" that the model was exported at wasn't likely millimeters but something else. If you happen to end up at standard scales like "2540%" or "3.94% give clues as to what the "units" of the imported model might be. One of the features of the Cura Mesh Tools plugin is an option for the default scale that models are imported at. After installing Mesh Tools you can find it under "Extensions / Mesh Tools" and then "Mesh Tools Settings". As for notifications, I agree there are too many mundane notices but I think there aren't enough informative ones as well. Some sort of clue as to why my settings won't allow a slice would be good.

Cool, but can you disable notifications (!) and stop scaling models like it's impossible to figure out unit conversions? Why is it that when I export from BLENDER(!), as a .stl, at "1.0" scale, in millimeters... and then go into Cura... and it can't import it worth any damn? I have to have "scale models" checked in the Cura settings... and then... it will scale the small models... too large (10x) size. Just stop scaling, but import it at the scale it's at! Millimeters... at 1.0 scale. Why is that so hard? Why is it so hard to add an option to 'disable all notifications or warnings'? So annoying.

Also Cura 5.7 does not list the Voxelab FDM Printer in the non-networked printer list, Unless It's under a different brand name that I am not familiar with..

Just installed and setup the Cura 5.7 with my custom visibility settings, plugins, and printer settings.. Unless I am doing something wrong, it does not export/import the custom print settings using the Universal Cura Settings option for my Longer LK5 Pro printer.. Giving me this pop up. It does export / import the visibility settings to my second PC so I don't have to go through that long winded process.. Also it is not allowing me to save / export my printer settings as an HTML File using 5axes HTML export plugin that has worked on previous versions of Cura.. https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/5axes/HTMLCuraSettings I am including the UCP, and project file.. UCP_.3mf

Hi, I was thinking about this too to just disable acceleration or set it up to huge numbers. The thing is, I need acceleration especially on outer walls, because I get a lot of ringing\ghosting. without it. So thats kind of a problem. I usually print at 70mm/s for outer and 120mm/s for inner walls and infill. Acceleration is around 150 and 250 at max, higher values again shows too much ringing. But im thinking about trying some jerk control towers with different settings if it would help somehow. I have Artilerry Sidewinder X2

fuermi, "Display Info on LCD" is located under add script at the bottom right of Cura. You can set various items to display here.

Bumping my old thread - Re: the "Support Infill Layer Thickness" setting. I've found that adjusting this setting to match the model material layer height generally fixes the issue I was having. Is there a reason why this setting doesn't automatically adjust to match? These images show the difference in the cura render of the 2 layer heights:

Die bestellten Lager passen perfekt. Kugellager 12x8x3,5 mm für z.B. Tamiya Modelle 1280 Lager 8 x 12 x 3,5mm eBay-Artikelnr.: 283568082016 Falls der Feeder also laute Geräusche von sich gibt, besser vorsorglich mal tauschen. Jetzt ist er wieder so leise wie das Neuteil.

Hi @Adventurehill1, This answer quite a few thing. The versions of Cura before ver. 5.60 had some weird issue just with the support on certain places, but not on all print objects. This might also occurs differently caused by "some" model / profiles.. When come to the version 5.60, I've had some issues with it, -but with the new arachne version all (I've seen) this is gone. I'll think this version; Cura 5.70 are the best version I've seen from Cura. I wanted to see you printing the cube with "Z" up -just alone without any support, just to avoid the stringing from the support. This way, you may isolate problems one by one -I'd like to think.. I'll think you're right in assuming there is no under extrution. The E-step are calibrated numbers / mm you confirmed. Did you ever print with PLA with success or.(?) This will be kind of indication that your firmware are working OK. Thanks

The tooltips should explain things. There is an option to "Remove M106 lines..." so if you have cooling enabled in Cura it will pull out all the Cura entered fan lines. Then it adds what you enter. The entries for "By Layer" are "LAYER # / Fan %". The fore-slash is required. If you enter 1/100 you will get 100% fan at at the 1st layer. If your next entry is 10/0 then the fan will shut off at layer 10. If you remove the Cura fan commands and your first entry is 15/100 then the fan will remain off until layer 15 where it will go to 100%. If you were to need more on/offs then you could add another instance of "Advanced Cooling" but you would turn off "Remove M106 Lines..." because it would wipe out the entries from the first instance. There is a reason I called it "Advanced". (Some of this stuff you gotta think about.)

Here is another print I did. I plated two cubes, one with supports and one without, similar to how they are placed in the picture. The plastic is stringing, but only from the strange layer on the outside. I did a print without supports and it did the same thing. I also double checked the nozzle setting and, yes, it is a 0.4. As for feed rate settings, I assume you are asking about E steps? I have calibrated those. I just got Cura 5.7.0 yesterday, I will switch. Hopefully that's helpful.

Just assembled my new E3 V3. I believe it’s Klipper based which I have no experience of as I currently use an S1pro which I like lot. I have a lot of profiles set up in Cura, version 4:12:1 to 5.6 and many G.Code files on sd cards. 1) Will I be able to just transfer the g.code files to a USB drive and print them on the new V3? 2) Can I use Cura with the V3 ( it’s what I’m familiar with ) 3) If so, is there a machine settings profile for it that I can use? Looks a nicely built machine apart from the ‘orrible spool and feeder arrangement-only done the supplied test print 13 minute benchy so far, so lots of familiarity left to do

Indeed, as PizzaTijd already mentioned, no actual threads seem to be cut out. If you use Inventor, you can use ThreadModeler to convert the thread drawings to actual threads.

There doesn't appear to be any physical threading in your part. While I have no experience with inventor, other CAD programs tend to just create a hole and slap a texture on it to tell you "here there be threads" - which is exactly what happened on your part. Either you still have to turn physical threading on somewhere, or you have to manually make a helical cutout with the right dimensions and pitch to create your desired thread.

Thank you for your responses, Slashee. I had not read your latest before my response above, I was just adding some more info. You offer some golden nuggets of advice in there! And I will def look into using PETG! I should also mention that the 0.4 mm nozzle that comes with the Ender-5 S1 has a very long shaft, long enough for several threads. I can not yet find a similar (long) nozzle in 0.2 mm and it does have a tendency to leak. I am using way too much torque (at a high temperature) on the 0.2 mm tip. So I will use some teflon tape next time. Thermal resistance of PTFE ranges from 260 - 280 °C .

JTLYK, I purchased some 3DLAC and Warp-Pro spray adhesives, 200 grams of thermal paste that is good up to 280°C for the underside of the glass bed, bed clips, and a Sonic Pad with Klipper! All this stuff is scheduled to arrive on Friday! I received the top cover today, and it fits nicely.

Thanks. Not seen this before. You say it erases the Cura settings. If I set 10/50, then at layer 10 the fan goes to 50%. Where does it get the initial fan settings from? Do I have to set a 1/100 or 1/0 for instance depending on whether I need full fan or no fan at the start? On the subject of Post Processing Scripts, is there a set of guides somewhere on how to use them all?

I made a drawing in inventor with threads, when I export this to cura my threads disappear.

Try printing this. I tweaked a few of the settings for (hopefully) better results. StrangeCalibrationCubeTweaked.3mf

And if there isn't, demand a refund. That would actually work here (Australia's consumer protection laws are pretty great) but in other places it may just be a saying.

If you're worried about it unevenly heating (and possibly starting as soon as one particular point hits that target temperature, not the whole thing), try editing the startup gcode. Somewhere there should be a line that says M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} After that put in the line G4 S30 ; Wait for 30 seconds As the comment I put on the line implies, that will make it wait 30 seconds after it thinks the bed is heated before it does anything else, hopefully giving the rest of the bed a chance to heat up evenly. You could try using PETG, although if your final parts are going to be this small I'm not sure there'll be enough filament there to keep it from bending (very useful when you want, very annoying when you don't). I know someone who sells 3D printed parts for stuff had a problem with PLA melting while it was sitting in the back of hot mail trucks in the sun, but PETG can stand pretty high temperatures (as in "leave it in the sun all day in the middle of summer" sort of hot, I think). And it's much easier to work with than ABS. The only problem is that it's hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) so you either need to run it in a filament dryer for a couple of hours before you start printing, or keep it in a big bag when not using it and put some desiccant in there. Not scientific, but about the right height, so good enough. Make sure when you're levelling that you also test the home position of the print head. If you have OCD like me (not abusing a stereotype; I really have it; fun to mess with people who like to keep things tidy by saying "oh, so you must be OCD" and when they say yes I raise my voice and say... well let's just say I could say most of the sentence on childrens' TV, but not all of it) you get it to the point where you can go around to each corner and the home point without having to touch the levelling screws... it can take a little while. I've never actually had to use a glass bed, just a PC metal (I think that's what it is) bed that came with my printer so about the only advice I can offer here is that superglue, while adhesive, is probably not what you're looking for. While the bed is still warm (or just leave it on the printer and set the bed temperature to "warm" but not "ow it burns"), use a spatula, or a paint scraper, or something with a leading edge, and just sort of work around your print for a few laps. If you're using something with a metal edge be careful not to use too much force or you'll scratch the bed.

@Slashee_the_Cow, the reason I recommended octo is that @chriska416 mentioned the pi in the original post. I assumed (dangerous) octo was involved but it is not mentioned explicitly. my concern with using startup is that it’s not a printer specific embed that might be lost due to an upgrade or system clean. Same is true on pi/octo but most folks are a bit better about backing up pi/octo. Also, you can also in any gcode that is known to work from any date/config without needing to reslice. so yes, sledgehammer, but a very useful one. Less of a sledgehammer if octo is already in the pipeline.