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  2. @Sassw please be aware that @Daid is not working anymore at Ultimaker - he still might follow a few topics but maybe not those clearly Ultimaker hardware-related.
  3. Currently not. It would require the infill extruder setting to be a per-model-setting.
  4. I am trying to print a part with two materials. I need to fill one section with nozzle 1 and infill with nozzle 1 and then when i switch to nozzle 2 , and i want the infill to also be nozzle 2 . Cura 4.2.1 says " The settings is always shared between all extruders " it always sets the infill to one default nozzle. I cannot independently select the infill nozzle. Is there already a method to remove this link between nozzle settings ? Is there a work around ?
  5. We got a problem with printing a big cilindercal shape (100x100x300mm). In the appendix some picture of the printing and end-result! The build platform is vibrating a lot! About 4 to 5mm on the end of the build platform. We don't have this problem before with other prints. We are printing with PLA at 204 degrees. If you want more information please let me know!
  6. We have used PEI on glass for a little more than 2 years in Ultimaker 3. We had a separate glass plate without PEI to use for auto leveling until I accidentally auto leveled with PEI about a year ago. We have been using the auto leveling with the PEI on ever since. The only thing I have found is that you need to manually level the bed on the low side. By that, I mean that the screws you turn to manually level the bed can't be turned out very far.
  7. Today
  8. -Sven-

    Druckkopf 0,4 / 0,8

    Was ist den das Problem mit diesen posting ?
  9. @Daid This is now more important that the material station cannot accept anything other than one colour of each non ultimaker filament. Even material alliance filaments cannot have more than one colour loaded into the material station.
  10. Sicher, dass dein Abstand Bett Nozzle noch stimmt/gleichmäßig ist? Wenn ich den inneren "Kreis" der ersten Schicht so ansehe, hat sich der "Faden" schon überlegt, mitzuwandern. Daher diese Eckige Außenkontur - ist ja mehr 8-eck wie rund. Da würde ich vermuten, dass entweder der Abstand etwas zu groß gewählt ist oder das Bett nicht sauber gelevelt ist und sich dadurch in Bereichen mehr Abstand als in anderen ergibt (Bett hängt nach einer Seite). Links sieht es jedenfalls so aus, als ob da schon der Faden sich gelöst hätte und quer rüber gezogen hätte. Da das Objekt auf den Kopf steht, wohl die rechte Betthälfte. Ich vermute mal, rechts hängt es etwas und ist insgesamt grenzwertig groß, der Abstand. Gruß, Digibike
  11. Hi I have an issu since a few days. Our Ultimaker 3 lost her home head intial position. When it trys to initiate, the X Y motors make some noise (same as if they lost there steps). We go back to factory setting, now it is a bit better (some motor noise sometime but it (seem to) stop in a correct position). The main problem that remain is for dual material priting. The Ultimaker can't change the highness for hotend n°2, the specific movement it does normally to switch it up is made in an uncorrect area... Is someone nows how to reset all this to go back to correct setting? Is there an autoajustement procedure?
  12. Hello - first time trying white PLA and keep getting this problem with the first layer. The raft prints out fine. This picture is of the object upside down after I took off the raft so you are seeing the underside of the first layer with the second layer showing through the holes. I've recalibrated the z height, leveled the bed, tried varying temperatures between 180-210, various print bed temps between off and 70, and various first layer speeds between 20-40. Fan has been off whole time.
  13. Interesting. I was running my bed at 80-95*C and it still wouldn't stick well, now I'm running the bed cold with glue and it seems to stick really well. It ran a 3 hour print yesterday and it stuck really well, print also came out really nice so I think i'll go with a cold bed for now. I got blue masking tape on it, nozzle temp is 230-235*C and running the bed at 0*C but it's around 30*C while printing, probably just ambient temp in the box. Put some glue stick on it before it prints and it seems to work good. Better than with a hot bed and the print isn't getting messed up so that's good. You are printing directly onto the glass, with no form of adhesion on the glass? I couldn't get PETG to stick to the blue tape with a 95*C bed and 235*C nozzle, just ran right over it.
  14. As far as I know there are many possibility doing this with more or less complex systems and mor or less reliability... Try searching "joining filament" on google, you will get some ideas. Some people use candles but it is not recomended because you have a hig risk to burn the filament a little to much and it will clog your nozzle... This seem's to be a relatively good alternative for a cheap solution: https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Filament-Fuser/
  15. So I know stringing this is a common problem with petg but I am not sure this is stringing. it looks like there are blobs on the side walls. Some of the the begin or end of a string But on the straight is does not make sens that there should be stringing. So my question is, is this stringing or something else and how can i fix this. I have already made a temp tower (245 was optimal). I also made some stringing test where I changed the retraction distance but those came out quit good -temp: 245 retraction distance 5 7.5 & 10mm retraction speed 35mm/s
  16. Moin, ich habe überlegt ob ich mir den 0,8 Druckkopf zulegen soll. Deswegen hab ich in Cura 4.3.0 ein Objekt geladen was ich drucken will ( es benutzt in einer Richtung den nutzbaren Druckbereich ), dann habe ich den Druckkopf in Cura auf 0,8 geändert und siehe dar. Cura sagt das Objekt kann nicht gedruckt werden, der Platz reicht nicht. Das gleich geschieht auch wenn der 0,25 Druckkopf gewählt wird. Mit dem 0.4 habe ich das Objekt schon mehrmals erfolgreich gedruckt. Ist das normal ? Gruß Sven
  17. Mine does too.. has dimples on the font panel that the printers in the photos dont heh🤣 🙄
  18. Im glad you kept the white colour though. It means it can live in my mums kitchen without her being to bothered about it!. Black would be a no no for the kitchen
  19. Lol, i was just bored and felt like offerring a design suggestion/direction for the brand logo...which wasnt asked for btw lol. ...but surely you noticed theres no more robot on the side. My s5 has a robot. The one on the picture doesn't.
  20. Hallo liebe Community , mein UM2+ druckt seit kurzem erst nach einer Anzahl von gewissen Schichten akzeptabel. Egal ob bei PLA oder Nylon. Als Druckparameter werden die standardisierten von UM genommen. Das Eigenartige ist, dass z.B. bei Nylon eine Art Aufbauebene gedruckt wird, auf diese baut er dann das Druckteil --> dieses dünne Volumenteil druckt er schön, danach, wenn das eigentliche Bauteil kommt druckt er schlecht, nach ein paar Schichten dann wieder gut! Foto 1: Ansicht von unten (erste Schichten): Foto 2: Ansicht von oben: Hatt jemand von euch genug Erfahrung um mir da weiterzuhelfen? Wäre extrem dankbar.
  21. We made some visual changes to our brand in the beginning of July, like allowing a different color scheme, using different visual elements, and we changed our logo to a new one which we feel reflects our brand better. No new changes are in the pipeline to what you are used to 🙂
  22. Yes, I said "yes" to the override message on the printer. I will try to add a new ultimaker 2+ to cura as you said. I hope it will work. Thanks a lot 🙂
  23. Would this be acceptable? And the put it in a wate tight tool box (pelican case type)
  24. So the company is changing their logo? Im confussed.
  25. We'll take it into consideration! 😉
  26. You said "yes" to the override message on the display of the printer, right? In case of doubt, it's always a good strategy to first add a new Ultimaker 2+ to Cura and then switch that new one to Marlin. Like this you make sure it starts with default settings that should actually be fine for that printer.
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