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I'll just post a quick update, maybe it's useful for someone in the future :). The replacement parts just came in this week and I replaced the side panels. I initially also wanted to replace the top metal panel too, but the damage didn't seem to be too important for the structural integrity, so I decided to repair it instead. Very important: The front glass door is basically only held in place by the side panels, if you remove one it can easily fall out (and break, that's an expensive part), so I highly suggest to hold it in place with some tape. It is hold in place a little by the magnets that hold the door shut, but I wouldn't rely on that when working on the station. Also if you have no experience with repairing or at least maintaining printers, I wouldn't recommend touching that thing. To begin with, unload all materials from the station, disconnect it from power and remove the printer so you have the bare station in front of you. Place it somewhere you have some space to work and cover the area with a cardboard-sheet or something soft so nothing gets scratched. Carefully lay the station on its side, so the left panel faces up (be careful, it's quite heavy as you may have noticed). The left panel is straight forward to replace, just unscrew all bolts and lift the panel off. It might come of a little hare since the back part has some tight fit. There are bolts in different lengths used, I did just mark directly on the panel with tape where which length was used. I didn't take too many pictures with the left panel removed, because it wasn't that spectacular. The antenna of the NFC-reader is probably the most exiting thing: The right panel is a little more tricky, since there's the end-stop and dampening for the front door attached. Also remember to have the door secured. The two bottom holes that aren't present on the left panel hold the door dampening: To prevent everything from falling apart, remove all bolts that hold the right panel in place. Leave the bolts from the dampening assembly in place but loosen the screws a little (if you unscrew them completely by now the assembly will fall into the station and you'll have to rescue it. Carefully lift the panel up but leave it roughly in place, you can spot what's going on under there: The assembly should have around 2-3mm space so you can proceed. You can then carefully (somehow everything has to be done carefully here :D), rotate the loose panel around the axis of the dampening arm until you can reach into the gap to hold the dampening assembly. If there's a resistance feelable you may have to loosen the bolts a little more. In theory you can completely remove the bold heading to the back without it falling apart but I didn't have a good feeling having it just flapping around on one bolt while moving the panel. You can then remove the back-heading bolt, supporting the plastic piece with your hand and dislodge the metal arm so the panel becomes free. The panel can then be removed and the dampening-assembly unscrewed to transplant it to the new panel. To reattach the panel just do the above steps in reverse. Since the top panel was also damaged I had to do some additional steps (before reattaching the side panel): First removing the black top, it wasn't super-obvious to me first, there are two bolts on the top you have to unscrew, them the cover can be lifted upwards and be slided out the slots in the back to remove it (if you also have to do that, I'll remove the top before the side panel). The damaged part on the top panel was a threaded stand-off (the front right one) that broke away. To access that area the plastic part that holds the LED lighting and the retention levers (or how these are called) that hold the spools in place had to be removed. It's pretty easy, you have to remove five screws, four directly hold the plastic assembly, the central one also holds the magnetic sensor that detects if the door was opened. When removing that part take care for the LED-lighting wiring, since it's hooked into the metal panel. The "sealings" for the door do also have to be removed, they are just clipped in: (the picture is taken during reassembly) In case you forget that, they will just fall off (oops). To repair the standoff, I quickly designed a small block (11x30x5mm) with a hole for an M3 treaded insert and printed it as a solid ABS part on my UM2 Go. Looked like this when done and the insert molten in: I did then straighten the bent metal part of the panel, roughed up the printed ABS-part and the metal and epoxyed the thing in place: (not sure why one of the pictures is upside down) After fully dried: After the epoxy fully dried, I reassembled everything back in place. Next I moved on to removing the bottom panel to invenstigate the remaining internals I haven't inspected yet. I placed the fully assembled station upside down, be careful doing so, since the handle sticks slightly wider up than the top of the station (or probably just straight even, but I didn't want the station stand on that), so I placed it at the edge of my table. Before proceeding it's very important so secure the door, since we are manipulating both side panels that hold the door. To remove the bottom panel, the bottom most bolts on both side panels have to be removed and for better accessibility the four bolts one row above have to be loosened a little so the panels can be slightly loosened to remove the bottom, it's held in place by slots in the back and these studs on the side. Here are some pictures from the inside: Since everything was in place, properly secured and intact I reattached the bottom. Here's how it looks with the new panels: And the broken ones 🫠: Lastly I assembled the printer-setup back together and it looks nice again now 😀: (the small bottom dresser fits so perfectly, it nearly appears to be an OEM part 😅) Became a little long for a quick update but maybe it helps someone in the future or is at least interesting to someone 🙂

The image you tried to attach somehow doesn't work :(. If you haven't already, I'd disconnect the printhead from the printer, so you can work at it on its own. The wires are going into the back of the printhead and are accessible from there, the outer plugs are for the part cooling fans, the inner ones go to the door, the red/white one is for the leveling sensor, the other for the front fan. you can unplug them without disassembling the head but to remove them you'll have to take the printhead apart. You can do that with the printhead attached, but for cleaning up I'd probably remove it from the printer (I haven't done a cleanup, just regular maintenance like replacing fans and a sensor wire tho). To take the lower part off, you have to remove the outer screws (above the part cooling fans), you can then carefully flap the lower part down and backwards, that should (depending on how much material is in there) give you enough room to remove the door (the sensor wire is likely to break but is rather cheap to replace, like 5-ish €). My printer is currently busy so I just googled some images that give you an idea how it looks: The connectors on the back are on this PCB: (try not to break it, it's rather expensive) The large white connector goes to the main cable, the Y rod is going through the hole in the PCB. On the other side are the spring-connectors for the Printcore contacts. If something breaks, all parts are available on their own through most resellers (if they don't have them listed, you can usually ask them and they can obtain them).

Hi @Adventurehill1, Good news, but did you use Cura 5.70, -or the previous 5.60? Your printer Positioning Accuracy X / Y / Z 0.0125 / 0.0125 / 0.0025 mm (from the user manual). Every Z micro step are 2.5 micron, so you should be able to print "some" tiny layers..

Hi @Nils_007, This is very strange. It looks like the nozzle bed height is way to high, when looking at the "brim layer". Are your printer modified in any way? Here is a link to Eirin in "fbcr8", she made this -how to remove an clean the UM2+ feeder type: https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003853603-Reassembling-the-Ultimaker-2-Ultimaker-3-Feeder Here are Troubleshooting and Advice as well: https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/categories/200330744-Troubleshooting-and-Advice I've used standard setting in Cura 5.70 and saved it as a project and from this file you can save the gcode file into your sd card for your UM2E+. Here it is: UM2E_Plus_3DBenchy.3mf However, for UM2E+ I'm using Cura version 4.13.1 (the latest version of Cura using the old slicing engine). Thanks Torgeir

Thanks. Turns out the jam went all the way up the metal inside the core... I had to remove the head, and heat gun the core while sawing it apart with a steak knife... got a new core to replace it.

Hi @Torgeir, I have a other print. I don’t know why its good at first and bad later in the print. Nils

I tried those setting sitting flat (Z straight up) and it worked beautifully. I do need a smaller layer height if I can possibly get it though.

Moin zusammen, Ich habe einen Ultimaker 2 Extended. Weil ich das Matetrial in Cura einstellen will, hatte ich bislang in den Einstellungen des Druckers Marlin eingestellt. Das funktionierte soweit super. Nun habe ich den Drucker mit einem Olsson-Block nachgerüstet und dementsprechend in Cura auch den UM2Ex mit Block ausgewählt. Wenn man nun auf Marlin ( oder etwas anderes) stellt, verschwinden alle Druckprofile (Not supported). In den Einstellungen ist unter Profile nichts mehr eingestellt und Neue können nicht erstellt werden. Egal welches Material oder welche Düse man einstellt, es ist weiterhin alles not supported. Auch ein Umstellen von Marlin zurück auf Ultimaker macht dies nicht mehr rückgängig. Mir ist aufgefallen, dass dies nur die beiden Ultimaker 2 mit dem Olsson-Block betrifft. Ich habe das mit den Cura-Versionen 5,5; 5,6 und 5,7 probiert. Habe ich hier irgendeinen Denkfehler? Oder ist das bekannt (und gewollt)? Habe leider nichts dazu gefunden 🙂 Vielen Dank im Voraus. MfG

OK! I got the printcores out - now I'm faced with clearing out the head. any ideas? i'd like to take the "door" off but there's some wires going to it. anyone have some expert advice here?

Whenever I print a round object, such as a ball, the z-seam always ends up on the outside wall, and never on the inside. From what I have seen, the seam must end up on a vertex, so if you have a box, why can't the seam be on the inner corner?

I found this but it looks old... no longer in the cura app store. I tried installing manually but keep getting a .json error when trying to extract to the cura folder on my computer https://github.com/alkaes/QidiPrint

For your information, the HMTLCuraSettings plugin is no longer compatible with Cura version 5.7. : https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/5axes/HTMLCuraSettings

Okay printing something different is actually helpful in diagnosing the issue. I see a LOT of heavy stringing. I don't trust your filament dryer. How hot did it get? Did you unspool enough filament for a cube? How long was the filament in the dryer? For PETG, 8 hours at 50C should be enough to dry any unspooled filament. Within a week the filament may be "wet" again - I'm not sure as I keep mine pretty dry. PETG seems to take longer to get "wet" than nylon or pva. To dry the entire spool it could take many days as the humidity may be far towards the center of the spool. I do like Torgeir's idea of maybe printing some PLA to verify your equipment (such as feeder steps/mm as mentioned). Also are your issues only when there is support material involved? Is everything printing beautifully when there is no support? For parts that have potential to string (islands of printing on each layer)?

Yes! There is a solution, but first: I haven't had any trouble getting all manner of filaments and colors. I have heard the most complaints about colors. For example in carbon and glass filled filaments there are probably over 100 to choose from. I do have one spool of very old 1.75 and I was able to print some recently using a new trick so I'll share that. It was quite simple. This works on S3/S5 but not on UM3 because the UM3 feeder just won't grip the 1.75mm filament. It was a shade of brown that I didn't have in stock and I didn't want to buy more filament when I had a spool already. I got some PFA tubing that was "4X2" meaning 4mm O.D. and 2mm I.D. I stuck it down into the printcore and marked where it stuck out the top. Then I cut the tubing there. I reduced retraction by about 2mm but the 4X2 bowden seems to stay pretty well inside the printcore (I was afraid it would slide up). It worked quite well. I also changed all the "flow" values in cura to 265% (which is 2.85^2/1.75^2). I also had to hand-insert the filament. Which I always do anyway so no change there. You might have to remove the normal bowden at the head to get the filament started into the smaller tube. I forget if I had to do that or not - I definitely removed the bowden at least one time. Other than that it worked pretty well. I printed 2 boxes that were each about 2 hours.

thanks! any idea what plugin I could use for this?

It is becoming difficult to get hold of 2.85mm filaments in a lot of cases now. Surprising that there isn't a conversion kit available from Ultimaker by now.

By default network connection usually only works with UltiMaker branded 3d printers. You generally have to use a plugin to enable support for 3rd party printers.

Thanks gr5! I went into the menu, and as soon as I enabled the sensor, the ongoing print paused. So it seems someone has disabled it due to it not functioning properly. I will look into this next week. fideco

I got on my router and opened the ports but it is still giving me this:

Hi @Torgeir, today the new pla came. The print looks not good. Nils

Attempting to repair a sweing tool for a neighbor. I feel this is a bad idea as all the ladies in her group are sitting there with "out of distribution" tools in various states of disrepair... This may be creality quality issues, but what I ran into was that a 0.4 snoz could not reduce the flow enough to prevent closing the gap. A 0.2 managed my 0.15 gap just fine. That said I am relying on "slashee speeds" of "dear god, I could carve this from stone faster!!!" to keep things straight and stuck together. I also had to make sure fans were cranked to for PETG to cool fast enough at the corners to avoid pulling/smudging. See, I've been listening and learnging. Your pontification into the dark recesses of issues pay off! At least for me 🙂

Oh hey I just realised that if you now have the list expanded so you can see it all and you want to export it, I don't know if there's a way in Cura, but if you're running Windows, Microsoft has a program called PowerToys which is a set of tools which can be really useful for certain things. One of the things in it is called Text Extractor, you press the shortcut (default is Win+Shift+T) and then drag it over the text you want, it takes a screenshot, does OCR on it and just puts the text itself on the clipboard so you can paste it into a text editor.

Given the stringing between those, I think what @Torgeir means is to print them individually. Turn support off, print one, turn support on, print one.

@Dustin You need to wear a bell or something so I know when someone who knows what they're talking about is around so I don't have to take a stab in the dark (or anywhere else).

And here I was thinking my "paranoid" setting for acceleration of 500mm/s² (except in support and the moves before and after, I had to create a post-processing script just for that) was low. I guess it still is, in relative figures, given the E3V3SE can pull off 4000mm/s². I usually print PLA at 60mm/s, except for infill (inner walls are the same as outer walls). When it comes to speed or acceleration, there is such a thing as too low, since it can be hard to accurately control the flow rate. I definitely wouldn't go any lower than what you're using. Playing around with jerk is a great idea (okay kids, stop giggling): it's how much the speed is allowed to change instantly at a corner, because coming to a stop then moving in the new direction would leave a blob. It's also a leading cause for vibrations in the print, which can result in uneven walls (and a whole lot more, especially if you're trying to print something big). I set mine to 4mm/s. Slows down the print, sure, but good print > quick print.