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My cura 5.6 doesn't let me do that. It always springs the meshes apart automatically. Drop down model doesn't make a difference.

I'm not sure I've ever had a problem with that. I just open the move tool, turn off Drop Down Model and then either enter the values or just drag my objects around by the arrows: If you're going to turn off Drop Down Model, remember to manually set the Z position to 0 if you want it to be on the build plate.

Speaking of that, how do I actually connect two meshes in Cura? If I try to drop a cube on top of a cube, Cura instead automatically moves it to the side. How do I get Cura to let me overlap meshes before slicing?

I would suggest to make sure your bed is as perfectly level as humanly possible (even if you have ABL, that's only designed to account for small variations) and that your Z offset is dialed in as best you can. Not that it looks like either of those things, especially since it's an instant change between fuzzy and good instead of gradual, but it's the best I can think of. I'm just out of other ideas :)

I've never seen any ABS print that cool (unless that's a typo and you meant 260°). I always ran mine at 255°. Until I stopped bothering using it. It would help if you could provide a Cura project file (.3mf, get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) so we can see all your print settings. ABS is very hard to work with. If you're lucky, it has the adhesion of a wet paper towel. If you're not, it has the adhesion of a dry paper towel. It's also so temperature sensitive it warps if you even look at it funny (I put my printer in a tent, second to fourth best thing after a printer with an enclosure). About your print settings: drop the jerk. If I'm going for quality I usually drop it to 4mm/s. This is especially important since jerk is the amount of speed it is allowed to instantly change at a corner. It's highly likely it has very little to do with print settings and more about ABS' lack of adhesion and how easily it will warp. A smaller nozzle won't really print sharper corners, just thinner lines, although that will help with the appearance of sharpness. Remember that a nozzle is round and filament will ooze a little bit so you will never get perfectly straight, flat edged lines. If you're printing straight onto the bed you need to make sure it's as level as humanly possibly even before you run ABL (if you have ABL, far too many Enders to know them all). Assuming you can level it manually (you can't on printers like the E3V3SE). People will suggest various kinds of paper to use as a guide for how close the nozzle should be, back when I had a printer you could level manually I used a feeler gauge at .08mm. However my ultimate suggestion? Don't bother with ABS unless you have a really good reason to. People insist it's stronger than PLA, it isn't, just a little less brittle (if I want something which is less brittle so it can have a bit of bend, I use PETG). Also the fumes from printing it are poisonous. Plus the aforementioned adhesion and warping problems (I've done prints where it won't even adhere to itself). It's a great material if you're using it in an industrial injection moulding machine (Lego uses a secret version of ABS) but not that great to print with at home.

It seems to be the same number of layers, and I don't have any sort of fuzzy mesh on the lower layers. I will keep trouble shooting the problem. Thanks!

I'm too lazy to use @gr5's desiccant method so I just bought a filament dryer from Amazon, not expensive (about AU$75) and just stick my filament in there and run it for a couple of hours before I print and it's good.

My regular PC is out of commission at the moment (since when did motherboards start requiring two 8 pin ATX connectors, and why can't Amazon get it to me next day when I order only 12 minutes after the cutoff time for next day delivery?). Anyway, rant over. Turn off Mesh Fixes > Union Overlapping Volumes.

Have you loaded the "Printer Settings" plugin from the MarketPlace? If you have a "mixing" hot end (multiple-in-1-out) you need to enable "Extruders Share Heater" and "Extruders Share Nozzle". My guess is that when one is extruder is finished for the print that Cura is turning it off. That would be fine for a dual hot end machine but your printer needs to stay hot until the print finishes. Open a gcode file in a text editor and search upward from the end of the file for M104 S0. I'm guessing that a few lines above that will be the last tool change of the print.

Thanks Dustin, After posting, I also realised that the wayback machine would have the original article also - they're both as detailed. A

Hello Daid, I am glad to read this topics, and I am very curious about the part of temperature graph. As we know, um3 use the PT100 for temperature sensor, and we can now use this daten for drawing temperature graph. But I need use this temperature daten for study. so it ispossible, all temperature daten as csv store? thank you, hope you can tell me this!

the "20" command seems to get the more recent temperatures. I suggested you hit the red button to stop those as they just keep going every few seconds. Yeah if you want more than 10 minutes of data it gets more complicated. It occurred to me just now that you could look through the code for that web page (no idea where it is - probably in one of those ".js" files) and the temperature data is almost certainly appended to some array at some point in javascript. You could dump that array after many minutes/hours of collecting data. But I don't know the name of the array or anything - if you aren't a programmer and don't have a good friend who is great at javascript then you are out of luck.

Very thanks! and I just have one queastion: there are also many line 20, here store maybe the actual temerature daten, and in line 5000 just partially. what should I do?

J'ai vérifié et ne vois rien d'anormal. De plus, le problème ne se produit pas toujours à la même hauteur mais toujours pas rapport au pourcentage d'impression effectuée (entre 95% et 98%) Depuis novembre 2023 que j'ai cette imprimante je désespère car impossible de trouver une réponse à ce problème avec Cura même dans différentes versions. A savoir que je n'ai pas ce soucis quand j'utilise Prusaslicer. Mais je ne maitrise pas encore très bien ce slicer et de plus je préfère Cura.

One way to do this would be to add a support blocker, adjust the size so it occupies the part you want to be solid, and then use the per-model settings (cutting mesh) to print that area at 100% infill, causing it to be printed solid.

Article your looking for should be this one: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667410781005 Not sure why they built a knowledge base against a different websites knowledge base though, thats odd.. Print cores are technically considered not serviceable by UltiMaker. They should be the same length, if not your just always going to have issues as there is no way to adjust the z offset between them.

Hallo zusammen! Wie auf dem Bild unschwer zu erkennen ist, hat sich eines der beiden Kugellager vom Feeder aufgelöst, in diesem Fall das äußere. Das innere Kugellager ist bereits schwergängig und muss ebenfalls ersetzt werden. Welche Kugellager passen und wo bekommt man die her? Vorab vielen Dank für die Infos.

Unlike PLA, PETG absorbs water from the air and if you don't keep it dry it will "string" a lot. What happens is the water boils and foams the filament slightly which causes it to expand. If you have a heated bed, the easiest way to dry PETG is to unspool the amount you will need, place that on the bed with the spool on top (no need to cut the filament as it's still attached to the spool). Cover with a blanket or towel and leave at 50C for at least 2 hours. 2 hours is enough to get the unspooled portion. 8 hours will get some of the spooled as well. After printing with the dried filament, put in a sealed zip lock (I use 2 gallon) and include a cup (1/4 liter) of color changing desiccant. Recharge the desiccant when the color changes (typically once every few months). Your "flaky surface layer" might be related to overextruding which might be related to "wet" filament. I've never had this "flaky surface layer" with petg - just thick stringing. For me "stringing" is the only symptom I get when I have wet PETG. Other than that the quality is okay. When I dry the filament, the stringing goes away.

Hi @Adventurehill1 This print looks much better and I've seen that the acceleration and the speed are more like "PLA". I've just magnified your test cube for a more detailed look. This print looks much better. Try to reduce speed from 80 mm/s to 50 mm/s. Reduce the retraction length from 8 mm to 6.5mm. The surface looks very disturbed, is this a brand new filament just removed from a sealed bag? Also we'll see acceleration/resonance marks in here, so reducing speed may help. Almost all types of thermoplastic attract water directly from the moisture in the air, so it is very important to keep it in a sealed bag with dehumidifier bags (after printing) to prevent this from happening. But again "PLA", doing calibration without proper tuned filament profile are very challenging. PLA are easy to get and cheap.. Anyway good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Slashee_the_Cow and @Adventurehill1. Ofc., all discussions around problems like this are valuable -and I'll sure agree with your suggestions. However, there are some differences in here we'll need to take into consideration. Printing with a (1.5 mm or 0.8 mm) diameter nozzle versus a size of 0.4 mm makes some differences. If we compare the 0.8 mm and 0.4 mm nozzle we'll see it is 0.8 mm is twice the diameter of a 0.4. Further, -the surface area of a 0.8 mm is four (4!) times bigger in area. In addition this printer use a bowden tube, but I do not know the retraction length this printer are using. I'll know that some "Ender 3" types with bowden tube use the same retraction length as my UM2E+ (6.5 mm), "assuming" this Anycubic printer are close to this length. Printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle need much higher feed pressure in order to work properly here, so using a higher speed and acceleration are really needed to improve this problem IMHO. For the Anycubic printer reduce the speed from 80 mm/s (PLA default) "maybe" reduce the speed to say 60 mm/s and keep the acceleration the same as default PLA. When I started printing with PETG I've used PLA and modified the parameters according the specs for the brand of PETG. Only adjusted the speed from 60 mm/s down to about 45 mm/s, else only the temp and the fan (no fan until 25 % of print done then fan on at speed 20 % to the end). Used bed at only 45 deg. C., but with printer closed in front with a top hat as well. Well, -inside the web site of Anycubic they recommend using PLA profile as a "template" for PETG, but need to reduce the printing speed some. As you have the Anycubic profile for PLA, why not try this type of filament to have a little confidence with your printer. Most of us in here started printing with PLA. Just my 5p Thanks Torgeir

a bit more. I found 2 on amazon for 90 CHF. https://www.igo3d.com/ultimaker-s5-linearbearing-bed/

I've had some luck with tolerances, and was able to make some adequate prints. This doesn't mean I know what I'm doing. I realize there are some jerk and acceleration settings to make, but I'm not sure which quantitative amounts would be most helpful (see below). Does anyone know how to improve these mm-scale corners? It looks like the machine is going across the gap, leaving print matter behind, but also burning (or too much heat). IDK. There are different prints in these photos, but they all have the same problem with corners. How does one print corners best? My printer is not Linear Advance capable, atm. I am using a 0.2 mm tip on the Ender-5 S1, with 100 mm/s print acceleration, 10 mm/s jerk settings, 206 °C nozzle temperature (74 °C bed), ABS. I thought using a smaller tip would print sharper corners. Thank you! 28_129.cup.gcode 28_cup.stl

Suppose I want to print a simple cube. Cura will slice it to have specified bottom, top, and walls, and infill. Now suppose I want to stack two cubes on top of each other...but I still want to print a "top" layer in between the cubes. The reason is that maybe I want to cut the two cubes apart later, so having that partition wall in between them is desired. Sometimes I want to be able to cut parts apart, or sometimes I want to insert such a partition wall for strength, etc. is there a way? I have considered slicing the two parts and literally copy-pasting the gcode together, but I'm thinking there is a better way than that.

It's not underextrusion. (Sorry for not explaining better) It's more like a flaky surface layer that can be peeled off (Maybe overextrusion?) My infill has been having issues with just "bunching up" at the intersections, so I have everything set higher to help it stick where the extruder puts it. Also, I believe my hotend runs hotter than displayed by a good bit, which seems to be a Kobra problem. I've printed everything between 220 and 250 and for me 225 is the sweet spot. There is a stock profile for the Kobra, but it's pretty bad. I added it to the reply so you can take a look. StockCalibrationCube.3mf

HI, Reviving an old post on a similar issue rather than create a new post. I bought a fairly well used UM3 extended last week It had a broken wire to the capacitive sensor (now re--soldered back on) Once reattached, I am now getting the 'realistic height error' during levelling. There was a physical difference in the dimensions of the two print cores when I took them out of the printer, the heatsink and lower thread had partially unscrewed. When looking for further options for repair, I came across this page. https://www.dynamism.com/learn/3d-printing/ultimaker-error-codes-and-solutions.html All the other links work, but the 'realistic height error' link goes to a SalesForce splash screen. Does anybody know what content is on this page for error checking? (have done the following: cleared print heads using hot and cold pull ensured print nozzle is clean externally, wire brush and wipe with rag dropped bed to lowest level, then unscrewed three turns manual adjust first. ) Open to any further ideas,. Regards. A