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  2. I think so, but I haven't tried it. The gcode flavour has nothing to do with firmware updates, but UM2 will probably never get a new firmware anymore. No I don't know, but should be configured in the material profile on the printer. If not then the printer calculates these values from your given printing temperature. Probably not possible, so switch to Marlin and set it in Cura. Yes Use and try the ones I posted, I think they should work, if not nothing bad happens.
  3. Today
  4. @Smithy Thanks for posting the code that appeared to you. Would this code work perfectly on Ultimaker2 +? 1) If I change GCode Flavor from Ultimaker2 to Marlin, what would it be like regarding the Ultimaker 2+ Firmware update? Last week, I updated the Ultimaker 2+ firmware through ultimakerCura. If I switch to Marlin, can I continue to update the firmware normally through ultimakerCura or do I have to do something else? - Another question, switching to Marlin, do I have to immediately update the firmware again? 2) Yesterday I did a little test with Ultimaker 2+ (using GCode Flavor Ultimaker2). This time, I created a new custom material manually by the printer. I inserted the S-Card and I started printing. So, I saw for the first time that Material settings made manually by me through the printer were used (Printing Temperature = 200C, Build Plate Temperature = 60C, Retraction Distance = 5.50mm and etc). So far so good, I understand that Flavor Ultimaker2 works that way. But what I would like to understand is how or what values Flavor Ultimaker2 sets for the following functions automatically: - Default Printing Temperature - Printing Temperature - Printing Temperature Initial Layer - Initial Printing Temperature - Final Printing Temperature - Build Plate Temperature Initial Layer So what are these values that Flavor Ultimaker 2 would define? 3) Using Flavor Ultimaker 2, how would I define these specific temperature functions? 4) Using Flavor Ultimaker 2, ... and for some other functions that are hidden? In this case, just with Marlin? I am still researching Start and End GCode for Marlin that works perfectly with Ultimaker 2+. If I find it, I will make it available to everyone here who is willing to do the same as me. Thank you very much
  5. Thank you for your advise but I do not think that is the issue here. I tested it like this -> when I lower the plate by hand (when UM is off, and the on again) the error is gone. Nozzle and build plate work OK and heat up fine. If I imitate the similar forces on the wires by hand as if it was moving the build plate itself, I can't repeat the issue that way. The issue exists during the rise moment and happens at random heights, so I think its not a loose wire. Could something else alter currency in system that results in the ER02 report?
  6. If you want to spread it over the object, you can only use random and then the print head as to travel to this position. There is no option to have it "a little bit random" and with minimal travel moves. Personally I prefer to place the Z seam to a corner or position where it doesn't disturb the model or where I can easily remove it in post processing. So I mostly use "user specified" and sometimes use the expose seam settings to sand it away.
  7. Check the cable and connector at the print bed, I guess there is the problem. When you lift the bed, the bad wire has no connection anymore and the printer detects a failure in the bed temp sensor.
  8. I am having the ER02 on my Ultimaker 2+. I have checked the wires and they are OK. I can heat nozzle and I can heat the bed (so no issues to blame to wire, bed or motherboard) Problem is when the plate rises up it happens. When I restart I stays. Lowering the bed by hand makes me start it up again and all seems to work OK again, But when it raises the build plate the issue is back. The bed seems to make a 'hop' at that right moment of error. I made a short movie showing what is happening. Is this the motherboard issue? Also tried a stress test to the wires in working state by pulling and twisting it's wires to see if the wires were broken, or loose but that seems not the case. Hope someone knows what is happening and If I can solve it myself?
  9. Wow - that stl file has a LOT of triangles for just a barrel. I'm not sure if you need that many triangles for all that wood grain and if they will all be visible. I would probably reduce the number of triangles just so that I could work with the object faster in CAD. But that won't help your issue. So I looked at your STL file in xray mode in cura and there is lots of red - particularly at each of the metal bands. You have surfaces just hanging in air that don't connect to anything solid. That might be the only problem - not sure. What CAD are you using? Most cad programs won't let you do this. Most CAD programs deal only with solids but some cad programs like sketchup let you deal with surfaces which is unfortunate as surfaces are unprintable unless they are connected together to make solids. I think you are going to have to "go inside" your model and remove the extra surfaces. Also some CAD programs that let you deal with surfaces let you paint the surface as "inside" or "outside" the solid. For example a cube would have 6 faces and you have to tell sketchup to make the outer surfaces the "outside". Sketchup isn't smart enough to do it all alone. This "outside" versus "inside" property ends up in the STL and if the top rim of your barrel has it backwards it can confuse cura. What CAD do you use? You can also repair this model using netfabb's free service on the web. That's a quick solution. It's free but you have to create an acocunt. https://service.netfabb.com/login.php
  10. Aye, it would seem that way... I included the .3mf in my previous post, and I'm including the .STL here. I made the model in blender. I've tried merging my objects together into a single object thinking that might solve it, but no luck. How do I go about making it watertight? Nero_Barrel_3.stl
  11. This looks like classic 'non-manifold' or 'non-watertight' issues. It looks as though Cura is trying to close up edges it thinks are proper connections. I agree that the .3mf file is needed, but also the model as it is as well be to be definitive about the issue. This would be the .stl or .obj type and not a cura file. Also, did you download or did you make it? What program?
  12. bonjour didier merci pour ton intérêt ,oui c'est vraiment bizare c'est apparut d'un seul coup et uniquement sur mes fichier enregistrer avec fusion et oui des fichier qui fonctionnaient sont détectés comme invalides maintenant .... tu vois un peu comme si j’utilisais un logiciel en utilisation limité !!! sur cura j'arrive a ouvrir d'autres fichier telechargé sur le net alors c'est certainement au stade de l'enregistrement du fichier en stl avec fusion ??? j'utilise la version 4.2.1 de cura
  13. Hi, in the material-settings for each material, there are two entries for material cost and spool weight, which have to be filled for EACH material you are using. Cura then tells the length of filament on the specified spool and the cost per meter. With these parameters set, the costing is displayed under the estimated print time. Regards
  14. Oh sorry, I thought I did! My bad! I looked through the forums and found that it might be that the model isn't water tight? I still don't quite get why it's just the top/bottom that's having issues.... Barrel.3mf
  15. So i had a short on my little 5v back fan (ptfe coupler fan) on my Ultimaker 2. It caused a short and essentially fried my 5v connection on my v 2.1.4 board. What parts do i need to buy / replace to get this board working again ? From the schematics i found I believe I need to replace Transistor t100 on the 2.1.4 motherboard with a bc817 transistor. Can someone who knows alot more about schematics verify that information please. Thanks
  16. Hello @cHubbz, please save the project file (File -> Save) and attach the resulting .3mf file to this thread so it can be investigated. Thanks.
  17. Ive searched high and low trying to figure out how to get a costing on Cura, Can anyone point me in the right direction
  18. I cannot answer all your questions, but the UM2 or UM2+ (after the upgrade) is one of the best printers. I recently bought a used UM2+ Extended and the print quality is great, when not the best of all my printers. I would buy the 2+ Extrusion upgrade kit, there is not only the complete print head included, but also the rods, and important the plus feeder which is a great enhancement. If it is worth to repair this machine is hard say, but check what a used one costs in your area and then check what you have to pay for the spare parts. On the other side, if you invest now in new spare parts, they are new, from another working used one you don't know how good they are. I don't know if the extrusion stepper is the same, but if not, a new stepper is not expensive, I think I have seen a new one for € 20.-
  19. Thanks for this gread solutions 👍 I will test it this day's 🙂
  20. You are welcome, I was also wondering the first time I used the thread function, why there is on thread in the STL 🙂
  21. Hi there! I'm having a wierd issue trying to slice a miniature barrel. For some reason, CURA removes pretty much all detail from the top and bottom of the barrel, and I can't figure out why. The divots between the planks on the top are about 1mm deep, meaning that they should show up in print. Wierdly, the top isn't entirely smooth, as there are some slight indentations, although these don't seem to line up with the model at all. I've encountered this issue once before, and I never was able to solve it then. Hopefully someone here can make sense of it! I'm using Cura 4.2.1. Cheers!
  22. During a clean up, my work was throwing out an old Ultimaker 2 that broke down and had been used as spare parts to maintain the other printers. My boss offered for me to take it home instead of throwing it in the bin which I accepted. I am tying to work out whether it is worth salvaging, it ran 24/7 for around 3 years, so alot of things are broken or missing. I am not sure if the cost of replacement is worth the hassle, particularly because I don't know all of the issues. Known issues: *The heatbed was not working (I don't know the exact issue) *The X-Axis motor was not working *The whole Hotend Assembly is missing *The touch screen was broken (I have repaired this) *The encoder/knob was broken (I believe I have repaired this) I have just fixed the screen and it powers up to an error "Stopped temp sensor". This is presumably because the Hotend assembly is completely missing. So my questions are: *Given the symptoms above (and potentially more) is it worth saving? *Is there anyway I can bypass the temperature sensor error to see what else is wrong? *Is it worth getting the "2+ Extrusion upgrade kit", versus just buying the hotend assembly outside of the kit? *If I did get the extrusion upgrade kit can I use the old extrusion stepper to replace the faulty x-Axis stepper?
  23. Thanks. Shortest and sharpest corner are both fixed Z lines like user specified. If i pick random it creates alot of travel moves. Is there a way to nudge it a bit every layer without creating travel moves? Like with "wipe nozzle" on simplify3d I can wipe nozzle on Cura too but it stays on the same point.
  24. You can set the Z Seam alignment to random if you want it distributed over your object.
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