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  3. Unleveled bed leads to two extremes: nothing leaves the nozzle, or nothing sticks to the plate. After levelling, how do you know which way you've gone? Well, you print something. So give about 1 minute for the leveling process, the time an autolevel takes plus the time it takes to print something simple, and you end up wasting a lot of time. So cut it short: Incorporate a simple option to print a test square with diagonals from the tail end of manual levelling. Thus flow becomes: Manual Levelling > OK > Back position > Front Right > Front Left > Z-Offset > Auto-Level? > Test Print? > Repeat? It'd be really helpful to have the print try and print a couple lines, at least, after levelling. I'd personally be inclined to ask the user questions that would help me adjust the offsets.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Ultimaker 2 for sale. $1000 Clean and prints great Only 348 print hours Photos include a 2 hour print I did today Will ship in Ultimaker box Sale includes a sealed spool of filament - Ultimaker brand PLA Silver Metallic. I have another printer and have decided I only need one One day a UM5 .... fingers crossed.
  6. Hello. Recently, I bought a Duet3d ethernet for my JennyPrinter3D (Ultimaker 2+ extended clone). I decided to change the original board, which was rubbish, for this one. It looks great and the webpanel is incredible. I am trying to configure the new board with reprap configurator but it is a little bit complicated. Could anyone share their parameters? It would be very helpfull. @Neotko I saw your video of Duet Connection in Youtube. It was very useful (me fue muy útil y está todo muy bien explicado). Regards!
  7. Bonjour à tous, Je découvre le fil de ce forum suite au même problème rencontré aujourd'hui. Pour l'historique, j'ai récupéré une Ultimaker 3 Extented qui a été négligée par son acheteur qui n'en voulait plus (un industriel peu scrupuleux). Il me l'a donné en me disant qu'elle ne marchait plus... Quoiqu'il en soit je me suis mis en tête de la faire marcher. Je l'ai donc réinitialisé, mise en route, configurée, etc... Cependant je me heurte au même problème que @Boisdevesys, à savoir "La différence entre la hauteur détectée des deux printcores dépasse les valeurs réalistes" . En effet la même erreur est levée quand je désire faire une impression ou même faire une calibration XY. J'ai vérifié, les buses ne sont pas bouchées, j'ai nettoyé le plateau et ait fait un réglage du nivellement manuellement. Cependant, toujours pas moyen d'imprimer... Puis j'ai découvert que ma buse AA - 0.40 était anormalement plate (Ci-joint quelques photos comme preuves). Je me suis dis que c'était peut-être le design Ultimaker, mais en regardant les neuves sur le shop, je les vois davantage coniques. La mienne a l'air d'avoir été... Limée ?! J'aimerais avoir votre avis... Dois-je racheter une tête d'impression ? Est-ce que cette buse plate peut être la cause de cette erreur ? Comment l'utimaker 3 détecte le plateau exactement ? Le palpeur est-il inductif ? Merci d'avance pour votre aide, j'aimerais éviter de jeter un si bel objet !
  8. @MadCooper There seems to be something missing in your code for your pyd file. Cura (actually the embedded Python interpreter) should be able to pick it up normally. I've embedded PyWin32 into my CAD plugins and it comes with many pyd files and works fine. You probably want to take a look into SWIG or Cython to be able to code with fewer hassles and let one of these projects generate the C/C++ code you need. Maybe this is something for you! 🙂
  9. Here another thread, but for the OpenSCAD plugin. Would be great if we as a community could come together here and discuss new features and current problems with the plugin. Looking forward to interesting conversations! 🙂 Website: http://thopiekar.eu/cura/cad/openscad/
  10. Hello @RobyRob and @WielGeraats, I don't know why, but I either overlooked the notifications about your posts in this thread in my inbox or I never got them. Anyway, I added an official thread as for all the other plugins. Now something that might be interesting for you: I also faced the problem in the meantime and fixed it for me. It would be great if at least one of you could test the unreleased plugin. The download link and an (updated!) installation guide can be found in the official thread soon! Regards - Thomas
  11. Here another thread regarding one of my plugins. As I see not too many discussions about the FreeCAD plugin so far, I would like to advertise to use only this thread for discussion. This way many users can meet at one place and help themselves or I can give support of course, too. PS: I noticed a bug in the plugin that will merge all bodies of all objects in a CAD file. If someone is interested to test, please let me know. Website: https://thopiekar.eu/cura/cad/freecad/ Multibody bugfix: https://thopiekar.eu:5443/cura-cad-integration/CuraFreeCadPlugin/-/jobs/1024/artifacts/browse Installation guide: https://thopiekar.eu/cura/plugins/installation/
  12. This should work now. Just update to Cura 3.7.0 or 4.0.0 and update the plugin.
  13. Got tired of waiting, so I rolled back to 4.3.3 by doing the firmware recovery (attached). It was actually fairly simple, and I'm not particularly technical. Anyway, every issue is now gone, and I'm back to printing. Work Instructions Ultimaker 3 firmware recovery.pdf
  14. Thanks for these suggestions. I have been trying different speeds and slowing it down seems to improve the surface but I'm still getting spiral ridges. I'll try different layer heights.
  15. No problem 🙂 Grad to hear that it works!
  16. Hey and greetings again... do you have any news regarding the fixing of the automatic levelling problem? I still don´t know what exactly is or could be wrong with the UM3... Can I take other steps to eliminate the printbed from stopping half way to the cores and then don´t even touching them? It is pretty sad that I can not use the printer anymore now for almost 3 weeks and there is no clue what I could do to search or narrow in the problem.. See you and have a nice easter holiday Greetings Daniel
  17. Hi UM experts, I have a UM5 and am trying to get the best quality prints for architectural models. The larger scale models, 1/16" = 1'-0" print fine, but the smaller scale, ~1" = 50' does not. A photo is attached. Left print is at .1mm height and the right is at .2mm using pla. Are there particular setting I can adjust to stop the blobs on the piers between windows? Is the detail level/size of the piers to small and thin to get a good print? Thanks, John
  18. Me for example, I upgraded my UM3 and my S5 and have nearly no issues except the x/y calibration which is only needed for dual print and I don't print often dual. Just one minor issue on the UM3, that I have now (after the updated) a buzzy sound from the display. It is annoying, but I found a workaround to stop that sound. I just have to go to a submenu and return to the main, then the sound stops. Sometimes I have to jump more than one time to another view, but it works always.
  19. Super Danke für die Info und den Link. Gruß Mike
  20. aag

    CPE+/PVA -> awful warp

    Also, I am not sure if it has anything to do with the water. I submerged it immediately together with the glass plate. Maybe it is just the temperature shock.
  21. CPE is a little more heat-resistant than PLA (up to 70°C), CPE+ is said up to 100°C (I've not used CPE+ so far, only CPE), but with water temparature up to "hand warm" (starting temp, no heated bath) i never had problems with after-print warping.
  22. aag

    CPE+/PVA -> awful warp

    thanks - but wasn't CPE supposed to be more thermoresistant than PLA?
  23. Nein, oberhalb der Mitte ist weniger Federspannung, je tiefer die Anzeige, desto größer ist die Federspannung (siehe z.B. hier: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52504-clean-the-feeders) Grüße
  24. Hi, I've read somewhere at the Ultimaker-Homepage, that the water used to dissolve PVA should only be up to 30°C, but they recommend use of cold water. Greetings
  25. Something horrible happened. I made a large Ultimaker CPE+ print, and it came out of the printer beautifully (build plate: 110°C, UMS5 with plexiglass cover to retain heat). Then I put the model into warm water (45°C, thermostat + pump) to dissolve the PVA. And now the model warped horribly! It seems that the surface that was against the build plate has contracted and is now all bent. However, the upper surface (opposite to the build plate) is still in shape. What could have happened? How can I prevent that? Any help would be very gratefully accepted!
  26. If this hasnt be sold please contact me at stephenwillms1@gmail.com
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