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Hello, because I wanted to replace my heater block, I had to replace my heater cartridge and my temperature sensor wire. These were stuck firmly in the block. Everything is connected as it came out, but now it won't start at all. Very disappointing of course. Who knows? Thank you in advance.

Buenos dias desde argentina , estuve imprimiendo bien todo este tiempo y hoy al generar un stl nuevo no pude imprimir mas, si cargo un stl anterior la maquina imprime pero si genero un simple cubo y lo compilo en cura ya no lo imprime, primero pensé que era un problema del archivo que modifique que era uno descargado, así que opte por crear un simple cubo en fusion 360 y exportarlo como stl ... tampoco me lo imprimió, incluso los parámetros para que empiece a imprimir como temperatura del extrusor o de la cama caliente llegan a los rangos indicados y la impresora no se mueve.

The nozzle size set in Cura doesn't technically do that much anyway - mostly just affects warnings about lines being too narrow/wide, stuff like that. Whether you're using a 0.4mm or a 1mm nozzle, a (for example) 0.6mm wide line that's 0.3mm high requires the same amount of material flow. It's generally better to use the most appropriate size nozzle for your situation (it makes the output more controlled) but for setting print settings and such in Cura you can just ignore its warnings if you know what you're doing. (And if you don't know what you're doing: select the right size nozzle and pay attention to Cura's warnings)

It turns out that I'm like the 17,000th person to have the idea.

The developers are so sick of looking for this bug that in 5.7.0 they added automatic slicing error reporting. Just make sure you have the Send engine crash reports setting in the Privacy section of the Cura preferences turned on: It's almost certainly not a problem with any particular quality profile setting. Sometimes you can get a successful slice after changing a setting (almost any of them, really) to something different, slicing, then changing it back and slicing it again. Or move your model slightly on the build plate and slice again.

Best place to look is always the UltiMaker Cura Marketplace. Looks like over a dozen options. https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials?fillings=carbon_fiber&machine_variant=Ultimaker S5,Ultimaker S7&material_station_optimized=true&page=1&polymer_classes=copolyester,pa,pa_6_66,pa_6_69,pa12,pa6

Yay! I didn't know it was 3DGBIRE and I didn't know you were close by. I know a guy who works there. Great guy. 225 pounds is a steal as it will probably take them a few hours.

Here are the firmware recoveries I have. The ones with "R1" should all be for the older S5. Note the dates. Pick the oldest and newest (newest supplied from Ultimaker) This is a listing from my website gr5.org so just go to https://gr5.org/insert_image_name_here.img And it should automatically start downloading. Or create the link on a web page and right click and select to download. If there is a newer firmware let me know and I should get off my butt and add it to the below list. Why UM hides the old firmwares, I don't know. They are useful. -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 279969792 Jul 19 2023 UM3_recovery-3.7.7.20170627.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 332398592 Sep 11 2020 UM3_recovery-4.3.3.20180529.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 181449728 Nov 14 2020 gr-S5-R1.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 309789184 May 26 2021 um-restore-6.4.0-R1-gr.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 326318080 May 4 2023 um-restore-7.1.3-S5R1.img

You need to talk to Elegoo about that as UltiMaker won't be involved in someone else's hardware. On the other hand, the "variable line width" of Cura means that the nozzle size isn't near as important as it used to be. You can make up a custom profile of settings you use. When I print in spiralize I often kick the line width to 0.60 or 0.80 with a 0.4 nozzle. That works fine. You can't really go smaller though as there isn't enough squish. You can also add a nozzle size by editing a nozzle file (in the variants folder) and doing a Save-As. You might have to do the same thing with at least one "Quality" file for a material. Quality files contain a line that mentions the nozzle size. Between the nozzle file and a quality file there might be 3 or 4 lines that need a number changed (like from 0.4 to 0.5). When you do the Save-As make sure you use the same file naming format as the original file.

So from your description I think you probably have bad blocks in your "hard drive". By hard drive I mean the SSD chip that serves as the drives for the linux computer. The chip automatically detects bad blocks and routes them to new locations but the data in the bad block is lost so you have to re-install the software. Sometimes the bad block is part of the formatting so sometimes you have to reformat one of the 3 partitions. Sometimes the bad block is part of the partition table so you have to repartition everything. Sometimes there are many bad blocks so you have to do the above steps a few times. Always there are excessive amounts of good blocks because we use maybe 1/4 of the SSD. Most of the firmware installers are "too smart" and won't reformat or repartition unless the size has changed. So I find the easiest way to deal with all this is to install 2 different versions that had different partition sizes. That way the firmware recovery sees the partition size is different and it has to do a complete reinstall. I have links to a few of these firmware recoveries here: https://gr5.org/unbricking/ Okay I just checked the above link and for some reason I don't see very many S5 (any?) recoveries although I know I have some for sure as I've used them for my S5. I guess I'd try to get one from firmware 4.X and one from 5.X because somewhere in there they changed the partition size. Or you can get an olimex cable and see what's going on step by step. Described in the unbricking page. Unfortunately the unbricking page is a mess. I have edited it maybe 30 times and it gets more confusing each time. Sorry. If you have an olimex cable you can repartition it to random partition sizes and then run the latest firmware recovery, it will be forced to repartition. Basically - keep trying firmware recoveries. Try different ones to force them to repartion and hence also reformat each partition. With the olimex cable you can also run connman (which sets up and controls the wifi and ethernet).

Once I had a print core that became unscrewed. See if you can feel play in the core when holding the heat block and gently turning the collar where the filament is inserted. Don't use tools or force as the connecting section is very thin.

Just had a nice chat with the service dept at 3DGBIRE and a very helpful lady gave me some more tips, along the lines you just suggested, they have had breaks in the sensor wires internally, the diag test will read OK but the self-levelling doesn't work. yes, I am good with electronics, I build all sorts of race car electronics stuff from scratch. and we suffer similar issues on the race cars to solve it we use very high spec wire and very careful with routing going to do as she and you suggest and test continuity on all wires. then if I have no joy and due to time constraints (jobs stacking up) I will drop it off with them, and because it's out of warranty pay the 225£ for a fix it which isn't so bad.

Are there any plans to add odd numbered nozzle sizes for the Elegoo printers? I currently use an 0.5 nozzle but Cura only lists 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 & 0.8 with no other option to change the size. Thank you!

First read through this: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667410781005 Okay madmax - I saw your video in your other thread. that looks like you have noise. Electromagnetic noise. What reading are you getting of the sensor? Follow the instructions in the above link. The higher the number, the more noise you have. You need to get that well below 8 before things can work. Lately, the common cause is the fan but there are many possible causes. After you get a number, try unplugging the fan at the rear of the head. You don't have to take anything apart. If things are right on the edge (noise is say around 6-9) then the issue may be intermittent in which case, to get through the next day you can just try several times and eventually get through the active leveling. Another quick workaround is to disable the active leveling with this tool: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39188-ultituner-a-tool-to-tweak-your-printer/ I don't recommend the ultituner - it may be more trouble than it's worth. After disabling I think you have to do the manual level two more times possibly? There is something a little weird. But manual leveling is not supported and it won't do the multipoint leveling needed for larger parts to stick to the glass bed. You could end up with a MUCH more serious problem like a head flood if the part doesn't stick well so you really need to monitor the printer quite a bit to make sure the part sticks very well. A head flood happens when a hockey-puck shaped part comes loose and the head drags the part around and filament keeps coming out for hours and the filament has no place to go except back into the head and gets all inside the print head and can take many hours to remove after it solidifies and as part of the removal you can damage things. It's a horrible experience. But if you check the printer every 20 minutes you will catch the print coming loose before any damage is done. Anyway, let us know what noise reading you get.

Is it still under warranty? It's certainly okay to take the print head apart either way. I'm disappointed they told you that. Are you handy with electronics? Are you good with a voltmeter? If not, that might be the best advice. If you tell them you aren't afraid to take the head apart and ohm out wires, they may give you more specific advice. It could just be a wire that needs to be soldered back on. That is what happened to my S5. Everytime that door opens and closes it bends the wires a little. They can get pinched as well I suspect.

Is there a Nylon Carbon fiber compatible with the Ultimaker S5 Material Station?

The people at UM Tech Support know much more about this than me as I've fixed maybe 3 printers and they've fixed over a hundred.

Décidemment, il n'y a aucune réponse pour mon problème, En vrai ça désole

Tried two new print cores today, no change , still the same problem. sensor test gives 1.68. which is roughly the same as before with the other cores it now has 1 x new fan 1 x new glass plate 2 x new print cores 1 x new silicon guard all OE ultimaker Ultimaker support replied today to say I must take it into be fixed by their UK authorized service company 😞

beadster - I see you are right - it is lifting the right printcore quite a bit! That's just as bad but the opposite problem. I'd push up on the right printcore to make sure it takes around a kg of force to lift the nozzle in the frame but I'm 80% sure that the printcore is not the problem. I'd test it anyway. Instead it is some kind of electronics issue detecting the capacitance properly. I'd contact UM tech support and see what they suggest but I think they'll have you start replacing things in the print head. I'm wondering if you could possibly have an open circuit between the circuit board and the plate in the base of the print head. There are 2 wires that run to the detection plate. The plate is a pcb. You can see it when you open the door. I'd use a voltmeter to check continuity. Or gently tug on the wires. I'd probably take the whole print head apart. There are detailed instructions with photos and such (or maybe it's a video, I forget). If your printer is less than a year old it may be free parts for you (e.g. print head pcb).

Okay madmax - that looks like you have noise. Electromagnetic noise. What reading are you getting of the sensor? Follow the instructions in Dustin's link. The higher the number, the more noise you have. You need to get that well below 8 before things can work. Lately, the common cause is the fan but there are many possible causes. After you get a number, try unplugging the fan at the rear of the head. You don't have to take anything apart.

j'ai essayé en mode admin également, et toujours le même problème, rien ne se passe.

An old post, but still very helpful. Fixed my problem. thanks tinkergnome.