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  2. Yep.. that was me. 1.0mm noz for big tubes that eat entire 1kg spools at a go. I'm dumb. I found the problems to be Retraction extra prime amount - 1.5mm3 SLOOOOOOOOOOWWWWW DOOOOOOOOOOOWN ... this is for PLA Print speed - 50mm/s (my normal is 80mm/s which will make slashee call me names) ZSeam aligment - Random Outer wall wipe distance = 0 Layer height - 0.6mm I get a textured surface (ridged) but no holes in the layers. If you see underextrusion middle of a layer you may need to increase noz temp to help the booger string flow. I wound up at 200. The two biggest factors were print speed (slower is better) and the prime amounts (there is more than retraction prime, that's the only one I needed to change). Let me know if I can be of any help.
  3. I just wanted to post here that i've *FINALLY* solved all of my Ultimaker 2's warping issues. I've always had a theory that the open top was just too much for thermal management of prints. Over several years, I noticed that closing in the top with painters tape helped control warping and greatly improve bed adhesion. Whelp. I ordered one of these https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805493131735.html and installed it last night. Immediately did a print, and had absolutely zero ABS warping for the first time ever. *HIGHLY* recommended. I have no connection or affiliation with that aliexpress seller, or the manufacturer. For the price under $100, I wish I bought one years ago and wasted less of my time messing around with "free" solutions.
  4. Today
  5. I've been using the S5 since it's release and upgraded to pro bundle when that was released. I've been quite happy with it. It does sometimes come with errors especially when it becomes older (>3 years with an average of at least 60h printing per week), but after a while you will know how to fix most of them. We also have a BambuLab X1E since a few months, it does print faster, but it also comes with errors, less though. In general I really need the water soluble support material (PVA) for decent quality complex geometries, I use the "Support for PLA" from Bambulab, but it takes a lot of time and effort to get it off (if even possible) in small corners and grooves. So if I had to choose 1 printer, I'd still go for the S5/S7 pro bundle, but the second printer would definitely be a Bambulab. I've attached my findings so far, if you have questions, let me know.
  6. Ok, Great thanks! It used to work the way I described. I've done it many times.
  7. As a designer, I have always been very interested in 3D printing technology. Recently, I was fortunate enough to use Ultimaker 3 (used in conjunction with a MIRACO 3D scanner), and I have some experience with its use and problems encountered. First of all, let me say that the experience of using the Ultramaker printer is great. The printing speed is fast and the accuracy is very high. I can print complex models of my designs in just a few hours without worrying about accuracy. However, some problems were also encountered during use. 1. Material selection. Since the Ultimaker printer can use different kinds of materials, I tried several different materials to print different objects, but found that some materials were not suitable for printing complex models and were prone to clogging. 2. Print size restrictions. Since the object I need to print is relatively large, but the printing size of the ultimaker printer is limited, I need to divide the object into several segments for printing, and then splice them together. But the final effect doesn't seem to be very good. 3. Some minor problems, the printing base is not firm, the printing level is uneven, etc. These problems do not affect the overall printing effect, but it does take some time to debug. The overall experience and effect of using ultimaker3 is quite satisfactory. Of course, some minor problems also require certain experience and skills to deal with. If you have any good suggestions or sharing, please feel free to discuss~
  8. Also I just remembered that @jaysenodell (I'm pretty sure, anyway) has been working with bigger nozzles lately (even if not quite that big) and notice that mention and possibly have advice.
  9. Thank you very much. I will try that.
  10. FSR_2024-03-27 .3mfHere is the file.
  11. I agree, that API flag is likely your best bet for an alert on filament directly. Do you also have an alert for the printer status? There is a parameter exposed to the API that will tell you if a printer is stopped mid-print, such as when filament runs out. That seems like a worthwhile alert trigger as well, particularly since it would also catch other issues that require operator intervention.
  12. If you could provide the Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) that might help, since I can look at the settings and where the Z seams are and such to see if anything strikes me as odd. Although looking at your pictures, it seems like your project has a cross section something like this? \_| |_/ You could always cheat. Since it seems to be the inner section giving you problems just do it separately in spiralize mode (no Z seams at all!) and glue it to the other piece 😉
  13. yep understand all that, perhaps I should use the material empty flag on the api as the trigger for my alert email. The printers will sit there for days until someone tells us that it is out of material, if thats mid print it can be an issue. I have a dashboard that shows us the amount remaining on all the slots across the fleet of printers, but without an accurate measure on the tag, its not very reliable.
  14. I didn't even know there was a material empty tag. The machine definitely does not use the amount remaining on the spool in any functional way. What it has is a sensor just inside the hole where you poke the filament into the material station. When the material is pushed in, it trips the sensor and the machine reads the tag to see what you just stuck in it. As the print is running, if that sensor trips back the other way, that means the tail of the roll just passed the sensor, so the machine takes that as empty and does the unload cycle on the remaining filament. The inside of the material station is such that if the machine kept printing past that point, the material could get stuck in there, so that's why it won't print the last meter or two of filament.
  15. The material remaining on the spool tag is only read for display purposes then I guess. If there is an end of roll sensor in the material station, the remaining field on the tag could be whatever you like, its only going to affect the display bar. As it is now I have a printer which when queried via the api is showing remaining amount of 0 yet is happily printing away. I guess the empty flag gets set when the end sensor is tripped. { "slot_index": 2, "material_guid": "44a029e6-e31b-4c9e-a12f-9282e29a92ff", "direction": 0, "material_selection_source": "RFID", "material_insertion_datetime": "2024-03-25T00:41:23", "status": "loaded", "material_empty": 0, "material_remaining": 0, "material_remaining_mm": 0 }, Kind of makes it hard to try and report when machines are empty.
  16. It takes well over a meter of filament to get from the spool in the Material Station to the print head, maybe even more than 1.5m, which amounts to more than a few wraps left on the spool at the end. One might hope or expect that it would just keep pulling the filament in until it actually ran out at the print head, but it does not. As soon as the tail end of the filament passes the sensor at the entry point, the machine considers the material empty and whatever is inside the machine gets pushed back and usually coils back around the spool. I don't know if the amount left in the machine comes out to 40g, but it doesn't seem like an unreasonable number. I doubt they deliberately put extra on the roll for that purpose though, particularly since you could be using the filament from the back spool holder (which has a much shorter path) or on another machine like a 2+. More likely, in a high speed filament production line, it is just easier to err a little on the heavy side, rather than risk shorting a customer and facing a complaint or regulatory action.
  17. thanks, I've taken some readings and found below. New full spool - NFC reads 750000 New full spool - scale weight 1019g Empty spool - scale weight - 229g That leaves 790g of material, yet the tag is programmed with 750g of material. Is this an extra 40g that can't be printed because of the length to feed up the bowden tubes? I'll measure a few more semi-used spools and compare scale weights to nfc readings and see if there if the 40g difference is consistent. On more than one occurrence, we have had the printers say material is empty, when there looks to be quire a few loops of the spool left.
  18. It can be hard to tell sometimes whether it's underextrusion at the start or the end of the layer, but try increasing your wipe distance to 0.4mm and see if that makes a difference. And remember, small scale testing is your friend: You don't need to print the whole thing each time. Just part of the handle, because it's visible the whole way down. The mechanics of Outer Wall Wipe Distance: It's not actually very complex. It stops pushing out more filament when it gets back to the Z seam, but then moves a bit past it so any filament left in the end of the nozzle can fill in the gaps.
  19. That's a Bowden extruder, this bit specifically: Those wheels control how fast the filament goes through, then the filament goes through that blue tube and into the hot end. Nice to see whoever you got it from seems to have gotten the upgraded dual wheel metal one rather than the stock one it comes with, which is plastic 🙂
  20. Ironing the top layer is just going to make it look pretty (although go for it if that's what you want). And I'm not saying go short (because there is such a thing as too short in this case) but while taller layers have fewer layer gaps, the gaps are going to be bigger and harder to cover by a method like increasing flow.
  21. That looked like it might work but throws a lot of errors and never installs.
  22. Cura uses different keywords as variable names in the StartUp and Ending Gcodes than Prusa does. Cura also uses {curly} brackets around the keywords where Prusa uses [square] brackets. AHoeben has put together the list of Cura keywords HERE. The startups and endings will be close, but because the keywords and brackets are different they won't be the same.
  23. You must have been lucky because prior to 5.7beta there has not been a way to adjust the print order in One-at-a-Time. It's been a source of aggravation for a lot of people. In 5.7beta, when you set the Print Sequence to One-at-a-Time a new setting comes up below it. When "Set Print Sequence Manually" is enabled then select a model from the object list in the lower left corner of the work space and right click on it. There will be two new options at the bottom of the right-click menu. They are basically "Move it up" and "Move it down" controls. I haven't played with it much, but it looks like it works. I don't know how much fun it would be if you had 50 models on the build plate that you wanted in an exact order. For the four I used in the example it was quick.
  24. Yesterday
  25. I had no end of trouble with PVA material and how it goes so brittle even with the material station. Ended up using some 3rd party BVOH material for disolvable support which was so much better.
  26. Woah, holy cow, first of all, thank you for taking so much time with this, I was not expecting it to be such a skull breaker, I thought it was just me being a complete n00b that doesn't know how to use this thing (which I am), but I'm starting to believe that the model itself is one of those scans made out of the real thing irl, when I opened the original one it was literally massive, I think almost a meter in diameter or something (it almost blew my computer up, I'm working without a GPU at the moment due to electrical issues with my motherboard), so I knew right off the bat that this was not gonna be as easy as I thought, but I don't tend to give up easily on things like these. A lot of what you said is simplified Chinese (for now) so I will have to open a window and work along what you say and compare it to the project and model you left for me, I have very little filament left to test, so I will have to save up, the print is merely a personal project for me to learn to print complex things (I aim to print anime figures, I know I don't have the ideal printer for it but I shot myself in the foot and bought a resin printer I was never able to use due to toxic fumes and I had to trade it for this one just to do something, I looked for supplies everywhere in my country, masks etc, to no avail so, yes, no resin for me at least for now), so it's not functional in any way, just a project to learn, which I'm already doing, even if I feel like I don't understand right now hahaha I will in due time. Here's the pictures you requested (I think) I haen't even loaded up that filament myself, the guy that brought the printer did it for me to teach me how to do it, once it runs out I'll have to do it myself, I already see myself messing up, what's that about snipping the filament? Please before I fuck up the only extruder I have, it's too early for me to pull this thing apart yet, I don't even know if other Ender 3 PRO tutorials would work for this one due to the upgrades LOL what did I get myself into please spare me. If these pictures don't work please tell me how to take better ones and I'll get them for you, I'll do the tests once we figure out what extruder I got hahaha Thank you so much again, I can't wait to be this knowledgable myself!!!
  27. Hi I print many parts in one go with the printer. Almost always I use "One at a time". I want to control in which order the items are printed, so I can optimize how many items I can fit onto the bed in one go. This didn't use to be any problem, as Cura printed them in the order I had loaded or copied them. But today I noticed in the version I am running now, Cura decided its own order regardless, and if I noted in what order Cura printed the items, and reordered them on the print bed and re-sliced, Cura re-ordered the print order, so now I cannot set the order in which the items are printed and place them on the print bed accordingly. Or can I? and if so, how? If this cannot be done anymore, it's a huge degradation for those of us who print many items in one go. I am using the latest version, 5.6.0
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