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Just had a nice chat with the service dept at 3DGBIRE and a very helpful lady gave me some more tips, along the lines you just suggested, they have had breaks in the sensor wires internally, the diag test will read OK but the self-levelling doesn't work. yes, I am good with electronics, I build all sorts of race car electronics stuff from scratch. and we suffer similar issues on the race cars to solve it we use very high spec wire and very careful with routing going to do as she and you suggest and test continuity on all wires. then if I have no joy and due to time constraints (jobs stacking up) I will drop it off with them, and because it's out of warranty pay the 225£ for a fix it which isn't so bad.

Are there any plans to add odd numbered nozzle sizes for the Elegoo printers? I currently use an 0.5 nozzle but Cura only lists 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 & 0.8 with no other option to change the size. Thank you!

First read through this: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667410781005 Okay madmax - I saw your video in your other thread. that looks like you have noise. Electromagnetic noise. What reading are you getting of the sensor? Follow the instructions in the above link. The higher the number, the more noise you have. You need to get that well below 8 before things can work. Lately, the common cause is the fan but there are many possible causes. After you get a number, try unplugging the fan at the rear of the head. You don't have to take anything apart. If things are right on the edge (noise is say around 6-9) then the issue may be intermittent in which case, to get through the next day you can just try several times and eventually get through the active leveling. Another quick workaround is to disable the active leveling with this tool: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39188-ultituner-a-tool-to-tweak-your-printer/ I don't recommend the ultituner - it may be more trouble than it's worth. After disabling I think you have to do the manual level two more times possibly? There is something a little weird. But manual leveling is not supported and it won't do the multipoint leveling needed for larger parts to stick to the glass bed. You could end up with a MUCH more serious problem like a head flood if the part doesn't stick well so you really need to monitor the printer quite a bit to make sure the part sticks very well. A head flood happens when a hockey-puck shaped part comes loose and the head drags the part around and filament keeps coming out for hours and the filament has no place to go except back into the head and gets all inside the print head and can take many hours to remove after it solidifies and as part of the removal you can damage things. It's a horrible experience. But if you check the printer every 20 minutes you will catch the print coming loose before any damage is done. Anyway, let us know what noise reading you get.

Is it still under warranty? It's certainly okay to take the print head apart either way. I'm disappointed they told you that. Are you handy with electronics? Are you good with a voltmeter? If not, that might be the best advice. If you tell them you aren't afraid to take the head apart and ohm out wires, they may give you more specific advice. It could just be a wire that needs to be soldered back on. That is what happened to my S5. Everytime that door opens and closes it bends the wires a little. They can get pinched as well I suspect.

Is there a Nylon Carbon fiber compatible with the Ultimaker S5 Material Station?

The people at UM Tech Support know much more about this than me as I've fixed maybe 3 printers and they've fixed over a hundred.

Décidemment, il n'y a aucune réponse pour mon problème, En vrai ça désole

Tried two new print cores today, no change , still the same problem. sensor test gives 1.68. which is roughly the same as before with the other cores it now has 1 x new fan 1 x new glass plate 2 x new print cores 1 x new silicon guard all OE ultimaker Ultimaker support replied today to say I must take it into be fixed by their UK authorized service company 😞

beadster - I see you are right - it is lifting the right printcore quite a bit! That's just as bad but the opposite problem. I'd push up on the right printcore to make sure it takes around a kg of force to lift the nozzle in the frame but I'm 80% sure that the printcore is not the problem. I'd test it anyway. Instead it is some kind of electronics issue detecting the capacitance properly. I'd contact UM tech support and see what they suggest but I think they'll have you start replacing things in the print head. I'm wondering if you could possibly have an open circuit between the circuit board and the plate in the base of the print head. There are 2 wires that run to the detection plate. The plate is a pcb. You can see it when you open the door. I'd use a voltmeter to check continuity. Or gently tug on the wires. I'd probably take the whole print head apart. There are detailed instructions with photos and such (or maybe it's a video, I forget). If your printer is less than a year old it may be free parts for you (e.g. print head pcb).

Okay madmax - that looks like you have noise. Electromagnetic noise. What reading are you getting of the sensor? Follow the instructions in Dustin's link. The higher the number, the more noise you have. You need to get that well below 8 before things can work. Lately, the common cause is the fan but there are many possible causes. After you get a number, try unplugging the fan at the rear of the head. You don't have to take anything apart.

j'ai essayé en mode admin également, et toujours le même problème, rien ne se passe.

An old post, but still very helpful. Fixed my problem. thanks tinkergnome.

For anyone hitting this post with the same error: I also got this error, but I fixed it by selecting one of the default slicing profiles like "Dynamic Quality - 0.16 mm". So I probably created the error by selecting something odd in the Advanced profile settings. Starting with a fresh profile and adjusting settings and checking regularly if it's still working seems like a good idea... I should probably post the error on the Cura GitHub repo, but I was more interested in fixing my immediate problem. Sorry, about that 🫤

Dear all, Any suggestions why my bed dose not want to touch the nozzle?

Dear all, I change the AA 0.4 core to CC 0.4 core. After the change I trie to print a part, but during active leveling the build plate dose not touch the nozzle. Seems that is around 5-10mm away from it. Of course it gets error after, that the 2 cores are the same Hight or something else. Additional info: - Manual bad level - at least 10 times - Lates firmware and cure - Done - Factory reset - Done - Calibrating core changer - Done - Using older Cure - still don't work - Changing back to AA 0.4 - Still don't solve the issue I did a ticket to Ultimaker, no answer! So in this moment my production is stopped because of this. Any suggestion?

the noise isn't from the servos working, they run nice and quiet, it is when the system gives up and the full load on the servo is released. here is a video of the fault.

Hello there We're using the first version of the S5-Modell in our Company (The one with a Robot-Logo on the Side). Recently like 1-3 months ago the Connection went randomly lost. After checking the Logs, I couldn't identify the problem at first sight, so I contacted the Ultimaker-Support Team. A young Supporter was answering me 3-4 hours after my mail and wanted to see the logs, so I provided him with those. He told me afterward, that the WLAN Card couldn't connect properly, so he sent me the safety instructions to open the bottom Cover of the Printer. I've checked the WLAN card it was looking all fine, what've seen was more of a Firmware issue, since it's not the WLAN Only that is not working, it's also the LAN-RJ45-Port. When I try to turn on the Ethernet port, it just toggles back into off, with no chance to keep it on "online", so it was looking more like a firmware issue to me. I've requested the Supporter for a Recovery Image, so I could restore our company printer. Sadly, the restore was not completed (it started booting into Linux menü, but just exited without any Errorcode etc. I've provided the support a Video of that Problem, and the logs. Since then we haven't heard anything from Ultimaker support (the last contact was on 17th April). Maybe someone here in the Community knows how to fix this problem since the support seems like to not care about us anymore. (Sorry for my grammar, English is not my native language). Current Firmware Version: 8.2.0 The Image of the provided Image file from Ultimaker was an 8.3.1 Version. I've asked him to send me the outgoing Buildversion so I can install that and rebuild the Machine state, but no help from the Ultimaker team unfortunately. Thanks for helping!

Instead of running Cura over remote desktop, consider installing OctoPrint on your Z83 to connect to the printer over USB and using Cura on your main PC for slicing. It's far lighter on system resources and has a web interface which lets you upload and control prints so remote desktop isn't an issue. You can also connect a webcam so you can watch the stream from anywhere to see if your print has failed in some way (it's saved me a fair amount of filament a couple of times). I run mine from a Raspberry Pi 3B so your mini PC is more than powerful enough.

This buzzing sound doesn't sound 100% right? I guess it's quite quiet on the S5 but on the UM3 it's noisier - I forget but that seems quite possible. I'm used to the S5 noise as I turned off active leveling on my UM3 but it's still on for my S5 so I guess I've forgotten what it sounds like. Still it would be nice if you posted a 10 second video showing leveling to youtube or something. I seem to remember the S5 has MUCH quieter servos.

The way it works: The build plate (the aluminum one under the glass) forms a capacitor with the plate in the print head. The capacitance increases as the plates get closer together. I'm pretty sure there is an oscillator where the frequency changes as the plates get closer together. Anyway when the nozzle touches the glass bed the plates should stop moving closer together. Should. When that happens the nozzle is assumed to have touched the glass. If instead the nozzle moves up as you described, it will NOT stop as the plates are still moving together! This should not happen. The bed is cantilevered and pushing down on it should move it down. It's critical that the amount of force needed to push down on the bed and move it downwards 0.1mm is less than the force needed to push the nozzle up into the print head. There is a spring inside the printcore that pushes hard on the nozzle. Harder than the cantilever force for the first 0.1mm or so. So it's possible the spring in the right printcore is too weak. You can measure it. It should take about 1kg of force to move the nozzle the first mm. More likely something is wrong with the sensor. More likely the bed *does* move down slightly before the printcore starts moving up.

I don't know how well it might fulfil your needs, but for regular Cura there is a plugin for Dremel printers available in the Marketplace (button at top right of Cura).

Je n'ai pas encore essayé la 5.7. En mode administrateur peut-être ?

Hi checking my S5 tonight but i think its LM8UU and LM10UU wich are easily available trough amazon . I will post my measure here .

Thank you for your answers. The mold setting did the trick. I need to tweak a tiny bit to get the print exactly as I like but on the whole that was the answer. PizzaTijd: The scull is not from that collection. I included it to see how it worked with the eyes and nose. It will not be usable in a print with the others (as I like those to have a hole straight through) but that is OK. It was only added to learn from.