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Click the fx button and it will return to being automatically calculated (which just sets it to the layer thickness whenever you change that) and save your profile.

The post-processing script button only appears at the bottom right of the window if you already have any scripts enabled. If you don't, you get to it through Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code.

*browses Creality website* Oh god, they're making it harder to differentiate between models. And the page for the Ender-3 V3 (not to be confused with the Ender-3 V3 SE or Ender-3 V3 KE) says it does run software based on Klipper. AFAIK every other Ender series printer so far has just used Marlin, with a customised (and less useful) user interface on some of the newer models. Klipper does support a subset of Marlin commands, designed to be enough to be able to print a model from Marlin gcode. Which is good, because Cura doesn't have native support for Klipper (although there is a Klipper Settings plugin available and I have no idea what it does because I'm not running Klipper). Probably. but bear in mind that the maximum build volume of the V3 is smaller (only 250mm instead of 270mm high). You could probably use Cura with a laser powerful enough to obliterate the Earth if you wanted to. But yes. There isn't a profile for the Ender-3 V3 (UltiMaker isn't responsible for profiles for third party printers, they need to be contributed by either the manufacturer or the community) but the profile for the Ender-3 V3 KE should be close enough. It's entirely possible your print profiles might not transfer over automatically. You can try selecting your S1 Pro, export the profiles, switch to the V3 and import them. Otherwise... have two Cura windows open side by side and copy them over manually. One thing I have to warn people about with most of the V3 series, this one included: Creality seems to be in a pissing contest to see who can make the fastest printer. Just because you can go fast doesn't mean you should. Most materials are designed to be printed at a certain speed, and to do stuff really fast you need special high speed PLA. You should manually set the speed to whatever is appropriate for your material.

hello guys. I wanted to give you an update on my testing. After intense cleaning the lines were getting worse (model on the left 1st picture). because of the pattern the lines had, I sugested some issues mwith the bearings or the nut. So I wanted to eliminate the nut as potential problem and removed it for cleaning. it was pretty clean from the last cleaning. but I realized, that the cover at the back of the bed was giving some friction to the guidingbars. So I removed the cover. then my printer came up with something new. as you can see in the right picture, the line problem is much less. but in the first cm there is a new linepattern which vanished after short. IT seams as if it disapeared as soon an the gap started in the model. any suggestions what that could be? this thing drives me crazy!

The PETG is very interesting. I like the UV resistance and that it can be printed semi-transparent, an important property. The temperature settings are lower, that's nice too. That it sticks to glass and breaks it off, yet nothing can be glued to it is hilarious! I watched this: The print I'm working on is less than 2 mm high or wide. It's like a flat net that must be lifted from the printer bed and then transferred onto another flat surface. What will be more demanding in the future I can imagine, will be to print adjacently with a 0.2 mm gap, or less, in between (see image below). It would be amazing if the two prints could be separated later by tearing them apart (without using too much force, that is, e.g, strings). Any idea if this is possible (see 3MF file), or a meaningful aspiration? LOL Thank you! CE5S1_28_array.pair.3mf

Excellent! Many thanks!

Thanks for listening to my rant. Morning woes when I am constantly wanting to love/utilize the program, but not become a pro at clicking notifications, aha. Anyway thanks for explaining that, and the plugin suggestion. I was going to ask/suggest... if it's not a solvable problem, then at least we can do is "help" it, in an easier way than not. I'll check out the Mesh Tools, sounds nice... I think I was somewhat aware of the unit/conversion issue, especially regarding STLs and more generic formats. Hrm, please forgive my abrasive questioning then 😉 I guess the simplest idea would be to add two int and string settings in Cura... for 'default scale', and 'default units'. Most of the time I think we're all dealing with the same in each of our projects, as we like to work. DOWN WITH NOTIFICATIONS! 😉

That's a pretty good rant. No CAD programs know anything about "units" in the sense of millimeters, inches, whatever. A number is simply a number. When you draw a single line and then "offset" or "copy" it over to the side "1.00" away, the CAD app doesn't care if it's 1 nanometer or 1 lightyear. It just knows that the distance between the two lines is 1.00. A program like Blender may have a standard unit which might be centimeters or feet or millimeters or inches. Ya just don't know what it does internally or what effect the export utility might have. When you bring a model into Cura and have to scale it to get it to the correct size, then the "scale" that the model was exported at wasn't likely millimeters but something else. If you happen to end up at standard scales like "2540%" or "3.94% give clues as to what the "units" of the imported model might be. One of the features of the Cura Mesh Tools plugin is an option for the default scale that models are imported at. After installing Mesh Tools you can find it under "Extensions / Mesh Tools" and then "Mesh Tools Settings". As for notifications, I agree there are too many mundane notices but I think there aren't enough informative ones as well. Some sort of clue as to why my settings won't allow a slice would be good.

Cool, but can you disable notifications (!) and stop scaling models like it's impossible to figure out unit conversions? Why is it that when I export from BLENDER(!), as a .stl, at "1.0" scale, in millimeters... and then go into Cura... and it can't import it worth any damn? I have to have "scale models" checked in the Cura settings... and then... it will scale the small models... too large (10x) size. Just stop scaling, but import it at the scale it's at! Millimeters... at 1.0 scale. Why is that so hard? Why is it so hard to add an option to 'disable all notifications or warnings'? So annoying.

Also Cura 5.7 does not list the Voxelab FDM Printer in the non-networked printer list, Unless It's under a different brand name that I am not familiar with..

Just installed and setup the Cura 5.7 with my custom visibility settings, plugins, and printer settings.. Unless I am doing something wrong, it does not export/import the custom print settings using the Universal Cura Settings option for my Longer LK5 Pro printer.. Giving me this pop up. It does export / import the visibility settings to my second PC so I don't have to go through that long winded process.. Also it is not allowing me to save / export my printer settings as an HTML File using 5axes HTML export plugin that has worked on previous versions of Cura.. https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/5axes/HTMLCuraSettings I am including the UCP, and project file.. UCP_.3mf

Hi, I was thinking about this too to just disable acceleration or set it up to huge numbers. The thing is, I need acceleration especially on outer walls, because I get a lot of ringing\ghosting. without it. So thats kind of a problem. I usually print at 70mm/s for outer and 120mm/s for inner walls and infill. Acceleration is around 150 and 250 at max, higher values again shows too much ringing. But im thinking about trying some jerk control towers with different settings if it would help somehow. I have Artilerry Sidewinder X2

fuermi, "Display Info on LCD" is located under add script at the bottom right of Cura. You can set various items to display here.

Bumping my old thread - Re: the "Support Infill Layer Thickness" setting. I've found that adjusting this setting to match the model material layer height generally fixes the issue I was having. Is there a reason why this setting doesn't automatically adjust to match? These images show the difference in the cura render of the 2 layer heights:

Die bestellten Lager passen perfekt. Kugellager 12x8x3,5 mm für z.B. Tamiya Modelle 1280 Lager 8 x 12 x 3,5mm eBay-Artikelnr.: 283568082016 Falls der Feeder also laute Geräusche von sich gibt, besser vorsorglich mal tauschen. Jetzt ist er wieder so leise wie das Neuteil.

Hi @Adventurehill1, This answer quite a few thing. The versions of Cura before ver. 5.60 had some weird issue just with the support on certain places, but not on all print objects. This might also occurs differently caused by "some" model / profiles.. When come to the version 5.60, I've had some issues with it, -but with the new arachne version all (I've seen) this is gone. I'll think this version; Cura 5.70 are the best version I've seen from Cura. I wanted to see you printing the cube with "Z" up -just alone without any support, just to avoid the stringing from the support. This way, you may isolate problems one by one -I'd like to think.. I'll think you're right in assuming there is no under extrution. The E-step are calibrated numbers / mm you confirmed. Did you ever print with PLA with success or.(?) This will be kind of indication that your firmware are working OK. Thanks

The tooltips should explain things. There is an option to "Remove M106 lines..." so if you have cooling enabled in Cura it will pull out all the Cura entered fan lines. Then it adds what you enter. The entries for "By Layer" are "LAYER # / Fan %". The fore-slash is required. If you enter 1/100 you will get 100% fan at at the 1st layer. If your next entry is 10/0 then the fan will shut off at layer 10. If you remove the Cura fan commands and your first entry is 15/100 then the fan will remain off until layer 15 where it will go to 100%. If you were to need more on/offs then you could add another instance of "Advanced Cooling" but you would turn off "Remove M106 Lines..." because it would wipe out the entries from the first instance. There is a reason I called it "Advanced". (Some of this stuff you gotta think about.)

Here is another print I did. I plated two cubes, one with supports and one without, similar to how they are placed in the picture. The plastic is stringing, but only from the strange layer on the outside. I did a print without supports and it did the same thing. I also double checked the nozzle setting and, yes, it is a 0.4. As for feed rate settings, I assume you are asking about E steps? I have calibrated those. I just got Cura 5.7.0 yesterday, I will switch. Hopefully that's helpful.

Just assembled my new E3 V3. I believe it’s Klipper based which I have no experience of as I currently use an S1pro which I like lot. I have a lot of profiles set up in Cura, version 4:12:1 to 5.6 and many G.Code files on sd cards. 1) Will I be able to just transfer the g.code files to a USB drive and print them on the new V3? 2) Can I use Cura with the V3 ( it’s what I’m familiar with ) 3) If so, is there a machine settings profile for it that I can use? Looks a nicely built machine apart from the ‘orrible spool and feeder arrangement-only done the supplied test print 13 minute benchy so far, so lots of familiarity left to do

Indeed, as PizzaTijd already mentioned, no actual threads seem to be cut out. If you use Inventor, you can use ThreadModeler to convert the thread drawings to actual threads.

There doesn't appear to be any physical threading in your part. While I have no experience with inventor, other CAD programs tend to just create a hole and slap a texture on it to tell you "here there be threads" - which is exactly what happened on your part. Either you still have to turn physical threading on somewhere, or you have to manually make a helical cutout with the right dimensions and pitch to create your desired thread.

Thank you for your responses, Slashee. I had not read your latest before my response above, I was just adding some more info. You offer some golden nuggets of advice in there! And I will def look into using PETG! I should also mention that the 0.4 mm nozzle that comes with the Ender-5 S1 has a very long shaft, long enough for several threads. I can not yet find a similar (long) nozzle in 0.2 mm and it does have a tendency to leak. I am using way too much torque (at a high temperature) on the 0.2 mm tip. So I will use some teflon tape next time. Thermal resistance of PTFE ranges from 260 - 280 °C .

JTLYK, I purchased some 3DLAC and Warp-Pro spray adhesives, 200 grams of thermal paste that is good up to 280°C for the underside of the glass bed, bed clips, and a Sonic Pad with Klipper! All this stuff is scheduled to arrive on Friday! I received the top cover today, and it fits nicely.

Thanks. Not seen this before. You say it erases the Cura settings. If I set 10/50, then at layer 10 the fan goes to 50%. Where does it get the initial fan settings from? Do I have to set a 1/100 or 1/0 for instance depending on whether I need full fan or no fan at the start? On the subject of Post Processing Scripts, is there a set of guides somewhere on how to use them all?