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Oh hey I just realised that if you now have the list expanded so you can see it all and you want to export it, I don't know if there's a way in Cura, but if you're running Windows, Microsoft has a program called PowerToys which is a set of tools which can be really useful for certain things. One of the things in it is called Text Extractor, you press the shortcut (default is Win+Shift+T) and then drag it over the text you want, it takes a screenshot, does OCR on it and just puts the text itself on the clipboard so you can paste it into a text editor.

Given the stringing between those, I think what @Torgeir means is to print them individually. Turn support off, print one, turn support on, print one.

@Dustin You need to wear a bell or something so I know when someone who knows what they're talking about is around so I don't have to take a stab in the dark (or anywhere else).

And here I was thinking my "paranoid" setting for acceleration of 500mm/s² (except in support and the moves before and after, I had to create a post-processing script just for that) was low. I guess it still is, in relative figures, given the E3V3SE can pull off 4000mm/s². I usually print PLA at 60mm/s, except for infill (inner walls are the same as outer walls). When it comes to speed or acceleration, there is such a thing as too low, since it can be hard to accurately control the flow rate. I definitely wouldn't go any lower than what you're using. Playing around with jerk is a great idea (okay kids, stop giggling): it's how much the speed is allowed to change instantly at a corner, because coming to a stop then moving in the new direction would leave a blob. It's also a leading cause for vibrations in the print, which can result in uneven walls (and a whole lot more, especially if you're trying to print something big). I set mine to 4mm/s. Slows down the print, sure, but good print > quick print.

You cant skip the leveling process its required on the S series. There is workarounds you can find around the forum but these are not recommended by UltiMaker.

Sounds like the pva is wet. https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667337600656

@jaysenodell, what the heck are you doing saying you need a small nozzle for thin gaps? You can have wide lines (as long as your filament isn't too gooey, and if it is, probably put it in a dryer) and tiny gaps if you want. The width of the gap is just some multiple of the printer's stepper resolution, and the gap is basically just line width (because you have half a line either side) + gap width, the two numbers are otherwise unrelated. Also, what the heck are you doing using a small nozzle? If you print two side by side with a tiny gap (having never tried, pulling a figure out of the air I'd guess start with 0.01mm) then the filament might expand enough to connect the two but have a weaker connection. Remember: small scale testing is your friend. Don't test stuff like this with two full size prints, just two rows 3-4 squares long so you're not using much filament (or time) each test. If you get the result you want there, then try it on the full size version.

I've had occasions when I've exported an STL from Cura, opened it in MS3D Builder to make some adjustments, and then saved it (inadvertently) as a 3mf model. When I open that 3mf in Cura the model comes in converted to centimeters instead of millimeters so it's 10 times bigger than expected. It's annoying, but only takes a second to fix. Wherever the problem is, whether it's something that Cura should know, or a consistency in translating/exporting utility's of other apps, if two programs are talking apples and oranges there is going to be a scale issue. I don't know that it's fixable. That being said, when I export a model from AutoCad and it was drawn in Inches, it comes into Cura needing to be scaled to 2540%. That's expected behavior. When I export a Benchy and it comes back the size of the Queen Elizabeth II it is unexpected behavior. In the case of Blender, it isn't really a CAD program but was intended for video game object design where models would not be required to be "watertight". You can use it, but you need to be careful that when you output the model it is watertight and all the surfaces are facing the right direction.

You will get much nicer results (typically but probably not in your case) if the letters are inset instead of sticking out. That may be good or not for cookies - not sure. You can definitely get those filled in. It looks like you have quite a bit of underextrusion - the flat layer below has lots of gaps. There should be no gaps there either. It may be the same problem (underextrusion). Try printing at half the speed you were printing at and/or clean out the nozzle. I think underextrusion is mostly your only issue however it may also be slicing this way on purpose. There are so many settings that can affect this. It's good to look at the print in PREVIEW mode in Cura to know if it will have gaps. Instead of me listing 30 to 50 settings for you to check, please post your project file so someone can look it over to see if anything needs to be changed in your cura settings. To do this, in Cura, do "file" "save project file" and post the resulting file here please. We will be able to see your STL file (your model), where you placed it, if you scaled it, what printer (machine) profile you have, material profile, and all of the 500 or so settings you are using.

Go through the menus. Pretty quickly you can find an option to enable/disable the filament sensor. I have an S5 but don't use the filament sensor and I have never run out of filament. It's not that hard to make sure there is filament on the printer but this a nice feature sometimes.

I recommend you learn a bit about getting things to stick to glass first but yes, there are 3rd party companies that will make various alternative sources. All of them should be able to handle a hot nozzle just fine. Some of the companies don't specifically mention the S5 but if you contact them they usually have that option for quite inexpensive prices. What material are you trying to print? Did you put anything on the glass (e.g. glue)? Oils from your fingers can get on the glass. Have you tried washing that off with dish soap or glass cleaner? Higher temp materials (e.g. ABS) are more difficult but I've printed pretty much every material out there on an S5 glass bed. So tell us more about what material you are printing. Personally I have the opposite problem - things stick too well and sometimes I pull up (spall) some of the glass off the bed. yes, really.

As someone who has never printed PVA, I can somewhat confidently say that either you have it too hot or that you have it too hot for your flow rate. @gr5 might be around here somewhere and can possibly give you a better answer.

I may be silly, but a small nozzel will let you do thin lines. Thin lines allow thin gaps. The big things in my experience will be slowing way down and running cool/cooling so that the corners stay tight and don't merge. I know @Slashee_the_Cow, what the heck am I doing using small nozzels? i don't know, but I don't like it. I do NOT like it!

🔽 Edit: please skip my post and go down to to the person who knows what they're talking about. 🔽 I know UltiMaker printers are treated specially in Cura (and I don't have one, so I don't know exactly how) but if you go into the settings for your printer, in the startup gcode, if there's a line that starts with G29 remove it.

I notice you mention blender... I use freecad. i don't get any notifications unless my models are completely unusable (which is more common than I care to admit). maybe the problem isn't in Cura?

My company has a Ultimaker S5 pro with a glass bed. we are having a lot of issues with the prints not sticking to the bed or warping badly. My printer at home uses a PEI bed with no issues at all so I am looking into converting it to PEI. Is there anything special that needs to be done to convert it over? I have seen that the nozzles touch the glass bed to probe for z height. Will this cause the PEI sheet to melt?

das ganze ergibt dann ja null Sinn. ich will doch nich 20 Druckprofile haben. ich glaube ich werde mal versuchen ob der Prusaslicer mit dem drucker umgehen kann... Trozdem Danke für die Antwort.

It could be the power brick or it could be the cpu. I suspect it's the power brick as those die more often. You can prove it's the bed by not using the heated bed. You can use painters tape on the glass, clean the painters tape with Isopropyl alcohol to remove the waxy surface of the tape (otherwise parts won't stick). Re-level as the tape has a thickness to compensate for. Try to do a print. If the computer doesn't reset then the problem was with the power supply. Make sure the heated bed temp is set to zero when doing the test! To me it really looks like the power supply. They cost about $90 USD. If you want a cheaper solution, note also that the printer is using the most power when it is heating up. You can force the printer to use less energy with some special firmware for the UM2: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1 Download the hex file about 5th blue link from the bottom. Make sure it says "plus". NOT "dual". Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2plus-19.03.1.hex You need a USB connected from the printer to your computer to install firmware. You can use Cura (or arduino ide) to install custom software. It will ask for this hex file. Once the new firmware is installed, find the "power budget" feature. I believe the default budget is: nozzle: 25W bed: 150W total budget: 175W Only mess with the total budget. Lower that by 50W (50 watts). That will reduce the power only to the heated bed.

Hallo liebe Community, ich habe ein Problem beim Slicen eines Bauteils mit einem 83 % Lines Infill. In einigen zufälligen Schichten und Positionen im Bauteil sind bereits nach dem Slicen in Cura Fehler beim Infill zu erkennen, welche ebenfalls beim Drucken mit dem Ultimaker S5 sichtbar sind. Der Extruder fährt dabei nicht parallel zu der vorherigen Linie, sondern schief. Auch fährt er statt eines U am Ende einer Bahn, eine 8. Dies ist vielleicht besser auf den folgenden Bildern zu erkennen. Ich habe schon versucht, einige Einstellungen zu verändern. Das Problem tritt allerdings auch bei anderen Infilldichten (80-90%), so wie bei anderen Bauteilen auf. Auch eine andere Positionierung im Bauraum löst das Problem nicht. Da der Druck für die CT-Bildgebung gedacht ist, sieht man diese Druckfehler im gedruckten Bauteil. Ich freue mich über Ideen, wie man dies verhindern oder auch nachträglich beheben kann. In der anhängenden Datei tritt der Fehler beispielsweise in Schicht 158, 174 und 250 auf. Vielen Dank und viele Grüße! UMS5_Kegel_Druckfehler.ufp UMS5_Kegel_Druckfehler.3mf

Weil das Druckprofil nicht mit dem Materialprofil zusammen hängt. Wenn ich jetzt z.B. im Materialprofil von PLA was anlege und dann nachher ein anderes Material wechsle, übernimmt er das nicht. Man muss da vorher entweder das richtige Material wählen und DANN erst das Profil anlegen, oder man macht alles im PLA Profil und stellt da alles so ein wie mans braucht für das jeweilige Material (wie ich z.B., ich pfeif da komplett auf eigene Materialprofile, macht null Unterschied).

Die offenen Fragen kann ich aktuell nicht beantworten. Wegen der Problematik Düsenversatzsondierung kann ich leider nichts Drucken und die Druckköpfe nicht kalibrieren. Auch ein Wechsel der Druckköpfe bracht kein Erfolg. Die Druckplatte habe ich zum wiederholten mal nivelliert. Leider erscheint diese Fehlermdeldung immer wieder.

Hi, I have got some issues printing cookie cutters, I have openings in my letters which is not what I would like to have, and I can not get it much better , thank you so much for any advice !

I really love the autolevelling of my S5. But still, hasn't anyone made a plugin or something that makes the S5 (etc) skip the autolevelling, sometimes when printing a few very small parts after each other it wouldn't be needed and could save a big portion of the time.

Which settings in Cura need to be changed in order to prevent an excessive amount of burnt black crust forming on the nozzle when printing with PVA? I am using an Ultimaker S3, and only have this buildup of black debris form when printing with PVA. How can we fix this issue without causing adhesion issues etc.?