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merci pour votre réponse, Vous écrivez : C'est le M104 dans le Ending Gcode. Le prochain vers le haut ressemblera à ceci : T1 >>> C'est le dernier changement d'outil dans le gcode G92 E0 M105 M109 S195 >>> température d'impression pour T1 (extrudeuse 2) M104 T0 S0 >>> Oups - la partie chaude s'éteinte J'en fais quoi ? C'est un exemple ou vous me demandez de le trouver dans le g-code ? 😕 J'avais prévenu que je suis nulle en g-code ! 🫣😅 En ce qui concerne l'installation du plugin des paramètres de l'imprimante, c'est fait. J'ai trouvé " Partage du chauffage des extrudeuses" et "Partage de la buse des extrudeuses" et les ai cochés. J'ai trouvé aussi "Rétraction initiale de la buse partagée" qui est à 0.0 mm, je laisse comme cela ou faut-il changer les mm ? Si toutefois cela peut être utile, je vous joins le g-code entier Merci encore pour votre aide ☺️ GM_Octopus_v5.6.gcode

Well, -It's the support that's destroy your model in the first place. Rotate your model so the "Z" is pointing straight up, the turn off the support -then you will have a much better model to analyse, for the one trying to help you and for yourself. Are you sure you're using a 0.4 mm size nozzle? Or, could it be a much to high feed rate setting in your firmware? I'll ask this as the line width setting in this last model was 0.24 mm (for a 0.4 mm nozzle) Cura warn you here with "Min layer width 0.34 mm). Still your model looks like this.(?) You're using Cura 5.6.0 , Anycubic advice using Cura 5.2.0 as the profiles are made with this version, I would jump to Cura 5.7.0! Maybe you tell us a little bit more about your printer. Thanks

That is the M104 in the Ending Gcode. The next one upward will look something like this: T1 >>> This is the last tool change in the gcode G92 E0 M105 M109 S195 >>> printing temperature for T1 (extruder 2) M104 T0 S0 >>> Oops - the hot end gets shut off The MarketPlace link is a button at the top right of the Cura Workspace. Click on it. This dialog will come up. You want "Printer Settings". Install it and then quit Cura. When you restart Cura there will be a new setting section added to the bottom of the list. You must be in "Custom" to unhide it. I have marked the Custom button in red. The settings you must enable are marked with yellow. There is another retraction setting there as well "Shared Nozzle Initial Retraction".

Workaround: Support blocker, set to first layer height, expand to cover the print area, set per model settings as cutting mesh, set custom speeds. Done, for now... Lame ass it isn't updated with at LEAST this fixed by now,.

Bonsoir, Pour installer mon imprimante, j'ai fait "ajouter une imprimante", j'ai choisi mon modèle soit la Geeetech Mizar M. Cette imprimante a 2 extrudeuses mais 1 seule buse. Par contre, je ne vois pas où trouver "partage du chauffage des extrudeuses" et " partage de la buse des extrudeuses". Où cela se situe ? Pour ce qui concernce le g-code, je n'y connais rien du tout. Je vous mets une photo de la fin d'un fichier g-code avec quelques lignes au dessus de M104 S0, si vous pouvez y regarder et voir s'il y a quelque chose d'anormal. Merci d'avance. ;TIME_ELAPSED:11972.246478 G1 F2100 E2091.76156 M140 S0 M107 G91 ;Switch to relative positioning G1 E-2.5 F2700 ;Retract filament G1 E-1.5 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Move away G1 Z10 ;lift print head G90 ;Switch to absolute positioning G28 X Y ;homing XY M106 S0 ;off Fan M104 S0 ;Cooldown hotend M140 S0 ;Cooldown bed M84 X Y E ;Disable steppers M82 ;absolute extrusion mode M104 S0 ;End of Gcode ;SETTING_3 {"global_quality": "[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Standard Quality ;SETTING_3 Personnalis\\u00e9\\ndefinition = geeetech_MizarM\\n\\n[metadata]\\n ;SETTING_3 type = quality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nsetting_version = ;SETTING_3 23\\n\\n[values]\\nprime_tower_enable = True\\nprime_tower_position_x ;SETTING_3 = 210.0\\nprime_tower_position_y = 65.0\\nrelative_extrusion = False ;SETTING_3 \\n\\n", "extruder_quality": ["[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Stand ;SETTING_3 ard Quality Personnalis\\u00e9\\ndefinition = geeetech_MizarM\\n\\n[m ;SETTING_3 etadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nintent_ ;SETTING_3 category = default\\nposition = 0\\nsetting_version = 23\\n\\n[values ;SETTING_3 ]\\ninfill_sparse_density = 15.0\\nmaterial_initial_print_temperature ;SETTING_3 = 200.0\\nmaterial_print_temperature = 200.0\\nmaterial_print_temper ;SETTING_3 ature_layer_0 = 200.0\\nwall_line_count = 3\\n\\n", "[general]\\nvers ;SETTING_3 ion = 4\\nname = Standard Quality Personnalis\\u00e9\\ndefinition = g ;SETTING_3 eeetech_MizarM\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_typ ;SETTING_3 e = standard\\nintent_category = default\\nposition = 1\\nsetting_ver ;SETTING_3 sion = 23\\n\\n[values]\\ninfill_sparse_density = 8.0\\nmaterial_init ;SETTING_3 ial_print_temperature = 200.0\\nmaterial_print_temperature = 200.0\\n ;SETTING_3 material_print_temperature_layer_0 = 200.0\\nspeed_print = 60\\n\\n"] ;SETTING_3 }

Look into using octoprint to intercept the bed heat ups and replace with the right macro. There’s a section in the octo configuration screen for just this purpose. a couple hints. * read up on storing a variable for the temp so you can put in logic to differentiate between raising and lowering temps. * simpler is better for the above… I’d lower just drop it. * alternatively play with fire and create a hardware solution that switches between ups sourced power and direct line power for bed heating. I like fires. You should probably not do that…

I have my printer (Artillery Sidewinder S1) and Rasp Pi connected to a UPS (backup battery) because I experience a lot of brown-outs and fluctuations. If there is an actual black-out, then the generator will turn on within a minute. While running, the UPS says it can sustain the equipment for about 9 minutes. The problem I am having is when the bed first starts to heat up, it overloads the UPS and after about 30 secs, the UPS shuts off. I have been manually increasing the temperature of the bed buy a degree or 2 and that works fine, but somewhat tedious. (When the printer is running, it's only using about 35% of the UPS capacity, so I don't want to buy a bigger UPS.) I have just added this code to the "Start G-Code" of my profile, and it seems to be working, but I wondered if there was a cleaner/better way to do it. M190 S15 M190 S17 M190 S19 M190 S21 M190 S23 M190 S25 M190 S27 M190 S29 M190 S31 M190 S33 M190 S35 M190 S37 M190 S39 M190 S41 M190 S43 M190 S45 M190 S47 M190 S49 M190 S51 M190 S53 M190 S55 M190 S57 M190 S59 M190 S61 M190 S63 M190 S65 M190 S67 M190 S69 M190 S71 M190 S73 M190 S{material_bed_temperature}; M104 S{material_print_temperature} T0 M105 M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0

I have a filament dryer, which I used then printed again. The results are, well, exactly like before. the last two cubes have been printed with the settings I attached. I'm really not sure what else it could be. I will print again with line width and flow same for infill and support and see what happens. StrangeCalibrationCube.3mf

Back to basics then. Start out with the bed at 50° and no fan and see how it goes. There is a new post-processor called Advanced Cooling Control that you can set "by layer". It will erase the fan settings that Cura may have put in the gcode and then enter whatever you set the fan to. Start out with 10/50 and at layer 10 the fan will go to 50%. You've paid for the filament. There should be someway to get it to stay down.

Unfortunately, I have tried that approach. They weren't particularly helpful saying 3DLAC, brim, 0deg bed temp and 100% fan was all that was needed. I confirmed that they had tried on an Ultimaker machine and they said it was fine. I tend to disagree 😞

When a material is warping that much the advice is usually to bring the bed temperature up to just below the glass temperature of the material, and to use as little fan as possible. Next step would be to heat the build volume. Colorfab recommends a cold bed (0°) and 100% fan so as Slashee says you really need to go back to them and find out what the deal is.

Wir haben ja mehrere Drucker die auch oft Wochenlang ohne nennenswerte Unterbrechung drucken und dementsprechend haben wir auch jedes Teil bis auf das Gehäuse mehrfach auf Lager. Neuteil habe ich direkt verbaut nur möchte ich den mit dem Lagerschaden reparieren wenn möglich. Ist definitiv günstiger als ein Neuteil. Da wir die Drucker 2015 gekauft haben und direkt als das Upgrade Kit auf + raus kam umgebaut haben, sind da schon einige tausend Druckstunden zusammengekommen bevor das Teil aufgegeben hat. Zu erkennen wäre es aber wohl frühzeitig gewesen, hätte ich mal einen Blick auf die Rückseite geworfen, das weiße Gehäuse war ganz braun weil sich das Schmierfett und das Metall als brauner Staub auf dem Gehäuse verteilt haben, sah aus wie Rost.

I've... never even heard of that, to be perfectly honest. I think your best bet might be to contact the manufacturer and ask them for advice, but maybe someone here who isn't me knows what it is and can help you :)

According to the link below, it's time in seconds. I think it's the time since you turned the printer on? If you read the post I link to below, it mentions that there are about 10 temperature samples per second.

Don't worry about the time thing. We've all got stuff to do. Unfortunately my computer is currently out of commission so I can't get to it (hopefully the cable I need will arrive tomorrow). Fortunately my mum's computer isn't so bad because it's made of my hand-me-downs and I don't even need to read my own instructions for how to do it. So here ya go. SphereInSphereDensity.3mf

Just know that that version is 9 years old.

thank you for your response, I have find a easy way to get the temerature. now I have a new question: the time make me confusing. can we change it in standard format?

Leider weiß ich auch nicht welche da passen, aber das ist das erste Mal in meiner Ultimaker-Laufbahn, dass sich ein Extruder-Lager verabschiedet und ich bin da mittlerweile 8 Jahre dabei. Ich habe sogar noch einen ganzen Extruder lagernd, den könnte ich dir eventuell günstig anbieten.

I know this is an old post, but the solution is to use an older version of Cura that allows you to set the com port of the printer. Version 15.04.6 is one version that lets you do this. You can do a Google search to find the download. Hope this helps.

You might have "Ensure models are kept apart" turned on in your preferences. I'm on 5.7, but as long as this is tick box is unticked I can just clip models through eachother without any issues.

Does anybody have any "good" experience when printing with ColorFabb allPHA? I have an Ultimaker S5 and an S7. I have tried many combinations of adhesive/build plate/flex plate combinations - Magigoo PP, ABS, PA, PC. Dimafix, 3DLac, Pritt stick, etc. on glass and flex plate. I still can't get a part to stop curling up either during the print or after the print is finished. CURA settings I have changed are 0deg build plate temperature, 100% fan speed, use of brim and the new alternate wall directions.

Hello, I just follow your steps but to be sure can you send me your file? Then I can compare them in my computer. Thank you, ps: Sorry for late answer I was not working since last message.

Anhand des Lagers, dass noch in einem Stück ist konnte ich folgende Maße feststellen: Innen 8 mm Außen 12 mm Breite 3,5 mm Offenbar finden solche Lager im Modellbau Verwendung denn für Tamiya Modelle (1280) finden sich solche Kugellager. Habe mir einen Satz bestellt und werde berichten ob diese Passen. Die Drucker haben jetzt ein Alter erreicht, bei dem diese Lager an ihre Verschleißgrenze kommen.

My cura 5.6 doesn't let me do that. It always springs the meshes apart automatically. Drop down model doesn't make a difference.

I'm not sure I've ever had a problem with that. I just open the move tool, turn off Drop Down Model and then either enter the values or just drag my objects around by the arrows: If you're going to turn off Drop Down Model, remember to manually set the Z position to 0 if you want it to be on the build plate.