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  2. This has happened to me many times on various Marlin printers. The datapath to USB or SD card is not super reliable. Even though there is a checksum digit, occasionally the error and the checksum match. So what happens is a digit changes. For example: G1 X1 Y1 E1234.234 gets randomly changed to G1 X1 Y1 E1034.234 (this is the change of a single bit) So it retracts 200mm (1234-1034). Then on the next move it moves forward the same amount but it's too late if the filament falls out of the feeder. Also if you watch/listen carefully, occasionally the X, Y, or Z will move by 100mm or so and then move back for no apparent reason and this will usually leave a little noodle/string sticking out the side of the print. I fixed this for my printer by cleaning out the SD card slot. There was a small hair in there (an eyelash I think). I took the PCB out and cleaned it very well with toothpicks, alcohol, qtips. But I think it was that single hair that was the problem. I haven't fixed the other printers that do this. With one printer it was doing it about once every 3 minutes. With the other printer it's once per week so I just ignore it.
  3. Hi all, I’ve got a Anet A6 running the latest Marlin firmware, and I am using Cura 4.0.0. The last print jobs I had, after being at 80% or so from the print job, all the axes stop moving. The extruder is then retracting the filament for minutes. Then suddenly, the printing resumes. Which of course is not working, since the filament is out of the (bowden) extruder. I have taken a look at the G-code,although not too sure what I have to look for. Any ideas what to look for in the code? Or other ideas for solving this? Regards, Dick
  4. Did anyone else encounter this problem? In my print file, I set the build platform temperature to 0C, yet, the printer heats up the platform to 70C. I tried different materials, restarting Cura and the printer, nothing helped.
  5. Got mine today from Trideus. (NL/BE/LUX)
  6. Afaik the flow sensor is integrated in the feeder's housing and not in the printcore. So it does detect positiv material flow, which is correct.
  7. I'm curious what temp you are printing at. Sometimes I get that with some brands of filament and have the temp too high
  8. Would you mind sending some pictures to show the condition?
  9. I'm looking for one, please send me an email altair0319@gmail.com
  10. I have used the 3DSolex print cores since I first purchased my UM3 Ext machines with great success. Highly recommended.👍 You'll get 0.25, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzles on an AA core. They used to have an exchange program using your AA print core. Can't say that is still the case though.
  11. Hi, If there is no other way I'll do it, but I want an option to generate the g-code without the filename inside. Time is money!
  12. Does this plugin work with non-UM printers? I am using CURA 3.6 currently. Yesterday I installed the available z-offset add-on from "Marketplace". I entered 0.1mm Z offset. My reprap delta printer (Folgertech 2020) homed, moved to the bed and then rose 200mm (or so) and started printing in the middle of the air. The front panel told me it thought it was a 0.1mm. It should have said 0.28mm, .1mm higher than my first layer setting. Currently this printer is running an older Marlin version. It is possible that the g-code was not recognized or perhaps was misinterpreted by the firmware. I plan on updating to the most recent Marlin and trying it again. Thanks, DLC
  13. Thank you ahoeben! That is exactly what I was looking for. What is that long list of "plugins" I found in Contents/Resources/plugins/plugins? None of those seem to appear in Extensions > Post Processing under post processing scripts.
  14. I have been having issues with our work UM3 and PVA being left out too long due to projects starting and going. To reduce these issues we have a Polymaker Polybox to store the PVA Filament. That box comes with a rather baldy sealed pipe/filament guide tube Luckily our work has a full range of Festo, SMC, Swagelok etc parts so I have raided the bins and got a SMC 6mm PFA pneumatic pipe and screw in fittings, that i have tapped into the polybox. The issue is that at the extruder the plastic pipe just jambs up against, the back. Is there a model available for upgrade extruder casing to be better sealed and fit a standard pnumatic fittings? This will keep the filament dry as it goes into the Printer so would prefer something more sealed up. Do you think a bondtech upgrade would help? I am an engineer so don't mind getting some CAD out but thought i would ask before reinventing the wheel. Is there an anti kink tubing mod for a bowden tube to prevent the PVA filament winding itself up? I am sure i have seen something like this for a creality. This may sound like a random bit of question but i would rather not have to worry about unloading the PVA from the printer all the time and just leave it there for weaks safe in its dry box and sealed up path to the extruder.
  15. Hi all, I was just curious if there are any aftermarket PrintCores available for the UM3 that allow you to swap nozzles? Thanks in advance!
  16. Hey there, Working with Ultimaker s5 and Ultimaker Cura 3.6. Is the print history feature available yet? If so, I can't figure out how to access, any help would be awesome. I'm trying to monitor my prints and their times pretty closely on this machine but have a few prints that I forgot to document. Thanks!
  17. I hope you speak a bit of English. As far as I know, almost all magnets lose their magnetic characteristics at elevated temperatures, because the iron (or other) magnetic particles become looser and their alignment changes into random. For neodymium this is around 80...90°C if I remember well (but verify it, as I could be wrong). 3D-printing is done above 200°C... So, I think you would need to print a magnetisable material, and then later turn that into a permanent magnet by exposing it to a very strong magnetic field. I don't know how that is done exactly, maybe at somewhat elevated temperature? Probably you can Google how permanent magnets are made? Or maybe you could use a magnetisable material, for example iron-filled filament, and then put some very strong permanent magnets close to the nozzle (but out of the heat), so they align the freshly printed particles while still molten, during the printing? So that when cooled, they keep that orientation? Not sure if this would work, but it might be the easiest method to try. Use an abrasive-resistant nozzle for this.
  18. What is wrong with using the search&replace functionality?
  19. Hallo Forum, ich bin auf der Suche nach einem eigenmagnetischem Filament. Also nicht Eisenhaltiges Filament, sondern eben eines das schon einen Eigenmagnetismus hat. Ich habe gelesen, das ein Doktorand aus der Schweiz eines entwickelt hat. Finde aber keine Vertriebsinfos. Kann auch sein, das es noch nicht auf dem Markt ist. Sollte es kein eigenmagnetisches geben, dann würde ich einen Erfahrungstipp brauchen welches in einen hohen Eisenanteil hat und wie es sich drucken lässt. Drucker ist ein Ultimaker 3 Ext. Viele Grüße Michael
  20. You can right click the file name in cura and change it to whatever you want but not get rid of it entirely.
  21. This is the hole reason i would like to force people to NOT use the Imperial units and/or mix it with the metric system. It will result in mistakes and failures. Just a few examples: https://chem.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/Analytical_Chemistry/Supplemental_Modules_(Analytical_Chemistry)/Quantifying_Nature/Units_of_Measure/Metric%2F%2FImperial_Conversion_Errors I think the Imperial unit are so dumb that it needs to be ban all over the world till it is erased from history. Smart people who are grown up with Imperial units hate it too but acknowledge that they are infected with it and it's hard to cure from this tumor.
  22. Hello, Is there a way to remove (or better, not generate) the filename inside gcode by cura4.0.0? ex. M117 Tail_1.0 layer: 0. Tail_1.0 is my filename. (appears with each layer change) I do not want to use the search and replace plugin. Thanks
  23. Thanks for the update. I checked with our channel manager and I can confirm a significant batch has been picked up already by 3DGBIRE. I'll ask them to ensure their entire team is up to date to make sure you get the correct information as a customer. Our apologies for the inconvenience.
  24. That's what I would prefer too, but I don't think this is going to happen any time soon 🙂 I know this approach is more expensive, but it does at least work - no matter which firmware is installed, I can easily wait for some seconds/minutes if the print doesn't fail then. Btw, the difference is not THAT big (around 0,2 seconds on my current 120 layer print). I suggest to add a dropdown field named "z Offset method" or something like that, where you can decide which ob both methods you want to use, something like: 1) `classic G92 (fast but not supported by some UM firmwares)` 2) `global offset adding (slow but robust)` You could then preselect one of both types depending on the gcode flavour.
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