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Go into settings and type "tower" in the settings search box. But tower can be very very useful for a dual extrusion print. So instead, go to PREPARE mode and click on the second extruder and then the second tab and then disable that second extruder. That will probably make the tower go away also and not affect future dual material prints.

thats the purge tower for dual extrusion.

Thank you, DivingDuck, I will look into the server on my tiny PC. Raspberry Pi is back to Linux, and not useful to me. So, please allow me to restate what you said to improve my understanding. The tiny PC copy of Octoprint connects to the LAN, and the 3D printer via USB. So, that would also mean that I would have Octoprint running on my laptop (where the slicer is). And that the laptop copy of Octoprint, would then send the gcode file to tiny PC copy of Octoprint, to feed it to the printer over USB? If I understand Octoprint, the copy on the laptop could display progress (and apparently camera video as well), of the 3D printer relayed by the tiny PC copy? If this is the case, it would meet all my needs.

I've included some pictures and the project file to illustrate the issue I'm having. This seems to be happening with any STL file that I open on Cura. I can't select this circular shape that generates on the corners when opening the STL file, so I have no way to get rid of it. For this example with the golf tee, it doesn't take up much space, but with bigger pieces I want to print, the extra circular piece I want to get rid of gets bigger and takes up much needed space. The STL files were made using Fusion 360 and I ensured that the only body that existed was the Golf tee as shown. Any help in dealing with this would be greatly appreciated. Golf Tee Test File.3mf

ah ok sorry

Bonjour j'ai une pièce qui a un trou mais qui n'est pas traversante et quand ce trou s'imprime côté plateau il est plus petit que prévu et quand je l'imprime pas côté plateau il est de bonne taille alors je voudrais savoir quel réglage touché dans cura pour remédier à ce problème merci d'avance

Unfortunately one test print was ok, but after I have again noise 60+, si is strange. Is the same noise even with Fab desabeld.

There are at least two ways to run Octoprint. One as a (Server-) program on a PC like in your little PC that is connected to the Printer via USB or LAN. The other way is to run Octoprint with a raspberry pi and connect this device to the printer via USB or LAN.

Ups das muss ich ändern. Dann werde ich mich wieder melden. Danke

Hello, Seems to work for me. I clean all the fans, and the plate again. Now the noise is around 10. I started a print to test. I will disconnect the front fan to see if i have any changes in noise. I will let you know.

Hello, For me the issue is solved. Seem to work. I clean again all the fans, plate etc. Thank you

I have Octoprint, as others have suggested it as well. Near as I can tell it can only communicate with printers that have an IP connection? This solution appeals to me for a variety of reasons, including the fact that the processor on the Z83 wasn't born to slice, so to speak. But, I couldn't figure out how to have Octoprint talk to a USB printer on the Z83. If this is possible, perhaps you could suggest where to start on figuring out how to do that? I have a complete wired LAN, in my house, so this would work well if I can figure out how to use Octoprint with a USB connection.

This is the UltiMaker 3d printers and UltiMaker Cura community.. Not really the best place to look for help with this kind of issue for your Flying Bear.

hi, this is the first time i write here, i hope somwon can help me and maby teach me somthing new (im new in this world) I have an old Flying Bear Gost 5 whit marlin software (2.0.9.3), and yesterday i installed TMC2209 v1.3drivers from BigTreeTech. i dit becouse i wase experiencing several problems whit the Z-axis during prints (like layer shifting or very poor quality), and i hoped this would solve them. however, afther setting the vref (following the instructions in this link: [https://all3dp.com/2/vref-calculator-tmc2209-tmc2208-a4988/](to mee result 1.7 for X Y Z and 2 for E)) and changing the drivers in Marlin, when i start auto homing or try to move the z-axis by 10mm, the Z-axis moves non stop until i turn of the power

Hello, because I wanted to replace my heater block, I had to replace my heater cartridge and my temperature sensor wire. These were stuck firmly in the block. Everything is connected as it came out, but now it won't start at all. Very disappointing of course. Who knows? Thank you in advance.

Buenos dias desde argentina , estuve imprimiendo bien todo este tiempo y hoy al generar un stl nuevo no pude imprimir mas, si cargo un stl anterior la maquina imprime pero si genero un simple cubo y lo compilo en cura ya no lo imprime, primero pensé que era un problema del archivo que modifique que era uno descargado, así que opte por crear un simple cubo en fusion 360 y exportarlo como stl ... tampoco me lo imprimió, incluso los parámetros para que empiece a imprimir como temperatura del extrusor o de la cama caliente llegan a los rangos indicados y la impresora no se mueve.

The nozzle size set in Cura doesn't technically do that much anyway - mostly just affects warnings about lines being too narrow/wide, stuff like that. Whether you're using a 0.4mm or a 1mm nozzle, a (for example) 0.6mm wide line that's 0.3mm high requires the same amount of material flow. It's generally better to use the most appropriate size nozzle for your situation (it makes the output more controlled) but for setting print settings and such in Cura you can just ignore its warnings if you know what you're doing. (And if you don't know what you're doing: select the right size nozzle and pay attention to Cura's warnings)

It turns out that I'm like the 17,000th person to have the idea.

The developers are so sick of looking for this bug that in 5.7.0 they added automatic slicing error reporting. Just make sure you have the Send engine crash reports setting in the Privacy section of the Cura preferences turned on: It's almost certainly not a problem with any particular quality profile setting. Sometimes you can get a successful slice after changing a setting (almost any of them, really) to something different, slicing, then changing it back and slicing it again. Or move your model slightly on the build plate and slice again.

Best place to look is always the UltiMaker Cura Marketplace. Looks like over a dozen options. https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials?fillings=carbon_fiber&machine_variant=Ultimaker S5,Ultimaker S7&material_station_optimized=true&page=1&polymer_classes=copolyester,pa,pa_6_66,pa_6_69,pa12,pa6

Yay! I didn't know it was 3DGBIRE and I didn't know you were close by. I know a guy who works there. Great guy. 225 pounds is a steal as it will probably take them a few hours.

Here are the firmware recoveries I have. The ones with "R1" should all be for the older S5. Note the dates. Pick the oldest and newest (newest supplied from Ultimaker) This is a listing from my website gr5.org so just go to https://gr5.org/insert_image_name_here.img And it should automatically start downloading. Or create the link on a web page and right click and select to download. If there is a newer firmware let me know and I should get off my butt and add it to the below list. Why UM hides the old firmwares, I don't know. They are useful. -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 279969792 Jul 19 2023 UM3_recovery-3.7.7.20170627.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 332398592 Sep 11 2020 UM3_recovery-4.3.3.20180529.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 181449728 Nov 14 2020 gr-S5-R1.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 309789184 May 26 2021 um-restore-6.4.0-R1-gr.img -rw-r--r-- 1 grfivorg grfivorg 326318080 May 4 2023 um-restore-7.1.3-S5R1.img

You need to talk to Elegoo about that as UltiMaker won't be involved in someone else's hardware. On the other hand, the "variable line width" of Cura means that the nozzle size isn't near as important as it used to be. You can make up a custom profile of settings you use. When I print in spiralize I often kick the line width to 0.60 or 0.80 with a 0.4 nozzle. That works fine. You can't really go smaller though as there isn't enough squish. You can also add a nozzle size by editing a nozzle file (in the variants folder) and doing a Save-As. You might have to do the same thing with at least one "Quality" file for a material. Quality files contain a line that mentions the nozzle size. Between the nozzle file and a quality file there might be 3 or 4 lines that need a number changed (like from 0.4 to 0.5). When you do the Save-As make sure you use the same file naming format as the original file.

So from your description I think you probably have bad blocks in your "hard drive". By hard drive I mean the SSD chip that serves as the drives for the linux computer. The chip automatically detects bad blocks and routes them to new locations but the data in the bad block is lost so you have to re-install the software. Sometimes the bad block is part of the formatting so sometimes you have to reformat one of the 3 partitions. Sometimes the bad block is part of the partition table so you have to repartition everything. Sometimes there are many bad blocks so you have to do the above steps a few times. Always there are excessive amounts of good blocks because we use maybe 1/4 of the SSD. Most of the firmware installers are "too smart" and won't reformat or repartition unless the size has changed. So I find the easiest way to deal with all this is to install 2 different versions that had different partition sizes. That way the firmware recovery sees the partition size is different and it has to do a complete reinstall. I have links to a few of these firmware recoveries here: https://gr5.org/unbricking/ Okay I just checked the above link and for some reason I don't see very many S5 (any?) recoveries although I know I have some for sure as I've used them for my S5. I guess I'd try to get one from firmware 4.X and one from 5.X because somewhere in there they changed the partition size. Or you can get an olimex cable and see what's going on step by step. Described in the unbricking page. Unfortunately the unbricking page is a mess. I have edited it maybe 30 times and it gets more confusing each time. Sorry. If you have an olimex cable you can repartition it to random partition sizes and then run the latest firmware recovery, it will be forced to repartition. Basically - keep trying firmware recoveries. Try different ones to force them to repartion and hence also reformat each partition. With the olimex cable you can also run connman (which sets up and controls the wifi and ethernet).