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  1. Past hour
  2. go to the menu system in cura: "preferences" "configure cura..." Uncheck the box that says "automatically drop models to the build plate". Instead of moving the model by the blue arrow up and down I recommend you enter a Z value (you can do either of course).
  3. Yesterday
  4. Hallo, Das weis Cura auch nicht, da die Ultimaker Drucker nicht so aufgebaut sind Ich vermute das da ein Fehler mit G92 oder und M82/M83 sein könnte. Aber so kann man es nichts sagen, zu wenig Informationen. Vielleicht kannst du den gcode + cura Profil teilen. Gruß
  5. Hello, I'm trying to print 2 colors in a single extruder by having one model print on top of the other in 2 separate gcode files. Even though my model's z-coordinate is 4mm tall in solid view, the slicer still slices it as though it is sitting directly on the build plate at 0mm. How can I achieve printing a model on top of another model? Thanks
  6. zerspaner_gerd


    Du hast oben geschrieben als möchtest du den gcode per Text Editor händisch ändern???!!! jetzt schreibst du, du hast umgestellt, darunter verstehe ich das du eine Einstellung oder Plugin in Cura geändert hast, das ist ein großer unterschied!!!
  7. Hallo Sebastian, Zu den E-Steps, ich habe gelesen das dass nicht nur mit 100mm Filament messen getan ist, sondern viel mehr Faktoren mit einfließen (Bowdenkrümmung, Druck), habe da zwar bis jetzt noch nie was offizielles gelesen z.B. direkt von Bondtech. Ich habe am Anfang auch jedesmal meine E-Steps kontrolliert, Bondtech + (auch bei meinen UM2 und UM2+ Feedern) und überall hab ich weniger raus bekommen, so wie du (96mm Standard/ 506,77 = 100mm). Aktuell drucke ich mit zwei Bondtech und verwende die 492,45 Standard E-Steps. Und wenn ich mich richtig erinnere steht in den Bondtech Handbuch gar nichts von E-Steps kontrollieren/anzupassen sondern man hört liest es nur in Forums. Und wenn es mechanisch große Unterschiede geben würde müsste ja jeder Ultimaker (Fertig kalibrierter Drucker, kein Bausatz UM3/5) mit verschiedene E-Steps ausgeliefert werden. Was für ein Problem hast du den überhaupt wenn du die E-Steps/Feeder in verdacht hast? Gruß Gerd
  8. Hey Guys, here there is a solution at every problem with CURA and Silhouette ALTA 3D http://www.alta3dandcura.altervista.org
  9. Hey Guys, here there is a solution at every problem with CURA and Silhouette ALTA 3D http://www.alta3dandcura.altervista.org
  10. Hey Guys, here there is a solution at every problem with CURA and Silhouette ALTA 3D http://www.alta3dandcura.altervista.org
  11. Are you sure it's PLA and not PVA? So that blob must have been deep in the print core to get soft. The problem is that the teflon inside your printcore is either too short (manufactured wrong) or has decayed causing an area where pla can spread out. I recommend you just throw it out and get a new core. Maybe get a 3dsolex core from shop3d.ca (disclaimer - I sell 3dsolex cores also).
  12. @ahoeben Do you know the exact camera type and do you know how to change the resolution in Python code or in configs? I haven't found anything on it yet.
  13. Thanks for your help by the way : - I did try to turn around the build plate 180o. I got two plates, so I try both... both do the same thing... - Active leveling is on on default no, because a never change it, and It does active level everytime I print...I think...I will double check that
  14. Some thing that come to mind; Do you use the active leveling? if not I would advice to do so... A one time manual leveling to have the best leveled bed mechanically, combined with active leveling is the best. Did you try to rotate the glass 180 degrees to see if its an issue with the glass not being flat?
  15. I wrote one for Cura 4.0 its in the facebook group files @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/254753545293582/ . You need a skirt for the 1st color purge because it will not go to the prime tower and purge but works great after that.
  16. here's the wire schemematics of the um2 motors, and all other UM2 details... https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1182_X%2CY_Motor_(x2)/B1182-B2P-A.pdf Regarding running the motors, I usually use Simplify3D for manual control but there are plenty options, f.e. http://www.pronterface.com/ The board will give warnings when f.e the temperature sensors are not connected, so just plug them in..
  17. Talk to my reseller technician today. We did bunch of stuff trying to stop under extruding in the right top of the build plate. I did : - Update Firmware - Factory reset; - lift switch calibration Still having the same issue. Getting tired for this problem that last for a month now. I do not produce quality prototypes as i use to. Please somebody help me ! PS: I did redo a manuel leveling nad push the glass build plate higher on the right side screw... Didn't change much, the proble is still there, on a smaller area....is my US5 broken in some way on the Z axis or I'm not good at doing manuel leveling....
  18. I have an issue with my Ultimaker 3 extended: my PLA filament keeps getting stuck between the Bowden tube and printcore. I have cleaned the nozzle with the hot and cold pull technique with no results. Any leads on the issue and way to fix it? Picture of the issue Thank you!
  19. Hallo, Bin neu hier im Forum und weis nicht ob es vielleicht schon so ein ähnliches Thema gibt. Habe aber auf den ersten Sucher keins gefunden. Nun zu meinem Problem: Ich habe einen Creality Cr-x der in der Lage ist 2 farbig zu drucken. Mit einer Farbe funktioniert alles einwandfrei. Aber das 2 farbige drucken spinnt ein bisschen. Ich habe das Gefühl das Cura nicht so ganz versteht das ich nur eine Düse hab die an 2 Extruder hängt und somit immer beim Filament wechsel nicht weit genug zurück zieht und mit dem zweiten Filament dann auf das andere auffährt. Das Merkwürdige ist dass das nur bei den ersten 2-3 Schichten so ist danach wird das Filament immer schön weit genug nach hinten gezogen damit platz für das andere da ist. Möglicherweise stimmt auch was mit den start und End Codes nicht. Hier sind die Start und End Codes die momentan drin sind allerdings hab ich die nicht selbst geschrieben sondern aus dem Internet so übernommen. ; start script G21 ; metric values G90 ; absolute positioning M83 ; extruder relative mode M115 U3.0.10 ; tell printer latest fw version M107 ; start with the fan off G28 ; home all G1 Z0.6 F{travel_speed} T0 ; prime T0 G1 X10 Y5 G1 F3000 E140 ; undo storage position G1 F{travel_speed} M117 Priming complete ; Put printing message on LCD screen M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length ; end script M83 ; extruder relative mode G1 F3000 E-140 ; retract G1 X0 Y200 ; home X axis M84 ; disable motors ; extruder 1&2 start script G92 E0 G1 E137 F10000 ; return - 3 to keep nozzle from oozing G92 E0 ;extruder 1&2 end script G92 E0 G1 E-6 F10000 ; retract to prevent stringing G91 ; switch to relative positioning G1 Z1 ; travel +1 on z G90 ; switch to absolute positioning M82 ; ensure e is absolutely positioned G1 X24 Y15 {travel_speed} ; move to 10 0 G92 E0 G1 E6 F10000 ; undo retract G92 E0 G1 E-5 F10000 ; stage 1 of 3 stage retraction G92 E0 G1 E2 F10000 ; stage 2 G92 E0 G1 E-137 F10000 ; stage 3, this keeps from producing "hair" G92 E0 Hoffe jemand kann mir helfen bin schon am verzweifeln 🙂 Danke schon mal im voraus.
  20. No matter the extrusion pressure/amount, if you are just letting the filament come out into air and measuring that, it "should" always be the same width, which I'd imagine is the width of the nozzle. If the extrusion goes up, it'll just come out faster. It's when the line is actually printed onto a surface that the width could be affected. The speed of the hotend movement PLUS extrusion amount/rate will change the width of the line when printed onto something, whether onyo the glass or a previous layer. Pushing a lot of filament out of the nozzle onto a surface but moving the hotend very slowly will make a wider/thicker line than pushing a lot of filament out of the nozzle and moving the hotend very fast. Also, the layer height is a factor. And pushing too much in relation to height and speed of the head can cause it to pool up around the shape of the nozzle, creating a "U" shaped line instead of a flat "_" line when viewed from the line's end.
  21. Hello all, I have recently purchased an used UM2, which has a weird issue with very slow XY moves. It appears that the movement is not continuous, but stops at certain intervals. This is also causing a kinda zebra effect on surfaces. I wrote a test g-code file for demonstrating the problem. It's got only one move, G0 F50 Y100. A video with very audible movement sound is here. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thanks! //PMa
  22. yeah, here's the most recent one. I forget what I did before that made it actually find and build with arcus, but I've tried C:\dev\libArcus\install_dir\lib\cmake\Arcus and C:\dev\libArcus\build the only two cmake files you can end up with: one used the cmakegui to build, the other was built and installed with nmake.
  23. Hello all - I am trying to run Cura on my Chromebook. I have enabled LInux-based applications n the computer and (through Reddit/GitHub posts) have downloaded the Cura app and see it in my "Linux apps". I have downloaded the Linux Cura 4.0.0 and 4.1.0 BETA versions onto the computer. But when I attempt to launch the app with either of these versions, nothing happens. The constant white "swirl of confusion" is happening over the Cura app on my chromebook's menu bar. From what I've read so far, there are folks out there who are running Cura on Chromebooks. Maybe I'm wrong. But if it is possible to run the Linux versions on Chrome, I've messed up somewhere. Does anyone have troubleshooting thoughts? Cheers, Andrew
  24. thank you. although i still think something is wrong. i dont have my measurements in front of me right now, but i believe the clip is almost 2 inches long. for the sake of ease, lets just say its exactly 2" long. that would suggest it be imported into cura as a 2mm long part. its not 2mm long. its insanely tiny. i have to zoom in as much as cura will let me to select it. as previously mentioned. i confirmed the length in autocad (again, lets just say 2"). converted to MM (50.8mm), and made the changes in cura. after the part was printed and checked with a micrometer, the thickness was off. looking at the first post, the thickness was off by .040" (1.016mm). which means everything else is off as well. do you know of any guide that can help me ensure that my scaling is 100% correct? i dont mind manually changing the scale in cura. i just want to make sure i am doing it right. i have some other parts i plan to draw in autocad and they need to be held to a higher tolerance. a .040"/1.016mm + variance will not be acceptable for the outcome for said parts. im really trying to avoid printing something numerous times, just to get the scaling correct. thanks again.
  25. Thanks for responding to this. This is super helpful. Makes the printer have a much higher value to me.
  26. Now 4.0 is out for a while, does any one have a good printer/profile setup for the CR-X ?
  27. I have an issue with my printer under extruding. I have replaced filament, changed software, replaced Bowden tube, changed temps, cleaned the nozzle, readjusted feeder tension but my printer is still under extruding. It is fine on the first 3 layers and then after that is just messes up. Here is a photo of the most recent print I did. Still the same issue. At this point I am at a loss of what to do. This is the DIY Prusa MK8 extruder from ebay (yes, not the highest quality) but any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you community!
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