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  2. Sorry but this didn't help. I removed the 4.3 Config directory but no changes at all. A white screen appears nothing more. I attached the log for Cura just after installation, perhaps some one can help. Kind regards Willi cura.log
  3. if you don't know this video yet, it may give you some more ideas (or at least it proves that a clean print is possible on Creality printers). Slicer profiles are linked in the video description: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QRb54zVPfQ
  4. Hi, I have the same issues here. Tried several options for support with no satisfying result. This is how it's done in default "triangles support". Cura 4.1 0.15mm layer height PVA support Angle 60°
  5. Today
  6. Thanks @geert_2, your salt-method is genius, i tried it some weeks ago with success. But here it's about ABS. With wood glue and PLA i destroyed a glass plate in the fridge without any force (mixed it 1:3 - big mistake!) with aprinta pro the prints were ok, but i had to re-apply the glue after nearly every print the adhesion sheets were too sticky, the got worn out by removing after five prints on time i used bare glass and Isopropanol - worked the best results were produced using MagicGoo and z-offset: popping off after cooling down, no re-apply neccessary Since removing flat parts was sometimes quite tricky, i developed the idea of removing adhesive areas inside. To be honest, i found this technique on some printed parts by triangle labs for my Ender-3 Direct Drive Extruder and was eager to find a similar, aesthetically pleasing solution for me. Right now I'm printing and it looks promising.
  7. Okay, I understand better now, I'm on an UM2+, and when I tried to go to Marlin, it just refused to extrude the material
  8. It's maybe a bit cryptic but up to date: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/master/resources/definitions
  9. Are you on an Ultimaker 2 or 2+? That one is special because it stores the main print parameters in the printer and you have to override it. If you want to override those settings in Cura, you indeed have to change the gcode flavor to "Marlin" in the machine settings. So that is a special case because of the printer, not because of Cura. Every other printer should have the print temperature in the custom settings in Cura.
  10. Hello ! Thank you for your answer ! I will try to install on my 2Go ^^
  11. Thank you for your answer, By visibility settings, I mean for instance the visibility of the nozzle temperature setting. Even if in the options, I turn the setting to be visible, It says that I have to change some other settings to make it visible, and those settings I just don't know where to find.
  12. Hello; Sorry for my late answer. Actually, I called the seller and we found that the the small steel rod was moved during tansportation maybe, so it couldn't actuate the end of stroke switch. I think it should be okay now. I tried two prints on it, and it seems to work. The quality wasn't as good as I expected, I got better prints on the ender 3 that I have at work, but I think it's because I didn't tune the options right ? I tried the Marlin G code, but the machine just refused to extrude any material, so I came back to the UM G code The reason I went to Marlin is to have access to some options like the temperature of the nozzle and of the bed. Do you have any ideas how to activate these options with the UM G code ?
  13. You find it here: ~/Library/Application Support/cura/4.3 When you delete the whole 4.3 directory or everything lower than this number, you will start with a fresh copy. You can also try to just rename the latest (4.3) folder to something else and delete the previous versions.
  14. The "Select Face to Align" feature requires a computer & GPU with at least OpenGL 4.1. If the system does not support OpenGL 4.1, the button for the feature will not show up. No amount of reinstalling will change that.
  15. Unfortunately, that list does not seem to be up to date.
  16. Cura Configuration Folder ? Wher is this situated!
  17. Cura 4.3 runs fine for me on Catalina, so it must be something with your installation. You can try to delete your Cura configuration folder, that you can start over with a fresh installation. But be aware that you will loose all your settings.
  18. Hi all, this weekend i updated to OSX Catalina 10.15 on my MAC. But know Cura 4.3 stays in a white blank screen and a rotaiting rainbow circle. How could I get CUra run again. I often use it because it is much better then simplify 3d. Help is realy wanted. Kind regards Willi
  19. Hello everyone! It's been another year, I've finally managed to get the designs finalized and printed, the fans ordered, and everything installed (among a slew of other printer upgrades). A problem I've run into is that, somehow, I blew the blowers within maybe 5 minutes of running them... I've tested the power coming out of the board, and that is working fine. It will drive any other fan. So the problem must be with the blowers. My theory right now is that the fans act as inductors when they're turned off, which causes a back current. What bothers me is that, to the best of my knowledge, the main board should also already be protected (after all, we don't put flyback diodes on any other fans). The fans I ordered ended up being the F00 variation of the blowers, with the built-in tachometers, as that was the only one on Mouser that could be ordered in low quantities (the non-tachometer version used in the Ultimaker can only be ordered in bulk). Perhaps the way the tachometer is internally wired requires it to be separately protected? I'm not sure how that would work, but it's the best bet I have right now. I think I've run into the bounds of my limited electronics knowledge, so if someone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you in advance! Best, nerdwarrior
  20. Hi, I've had my printer for about a 2 months now (Ender 3). Oh yes, I know this is an ultimaker form but I sadly can't afford one. I do use cura so I decided to post here. Anyway I've had issues with these odd z layer lines on my prints they always occur at the same place. Image: https://imgur.com/a/EHHjSNB Things I've done so far: 1. I checked to see if my 8mm threaded z axis rod was bent. I sat it on a table and it was every so slightly bent, maybe .07 mm of bend. I find it hard to believe that that could actually cause my issue. 2. I've checked the alignment of my z stepper with the cuppler and rod. No issues there they rod slides in and out with ease when screws are loosened. 3. I checked the alignment of my frame on my machine. Everything is square within .1 of a mm. All screws are tight too. 4. I checked the belts on the x and y axis of the printer. Both are very tight and make a medium pitch sound when plucked like a guitar. 5. I checked my rollers and all rollers are tight but not too tight. I can still manually spin them with my hands. 6. I've checked the tension on the z 8mm threaded rod, the screws are snug but not all the way tightened down. 7. I've tried printing with heat off incase my of any bed heating issues, very minimul improvement. Other info: My z 8mm threaded rod is free floating and does not have a bearing at the top. My only other mods I did was add a bltouch and a 5015 petsfang. I print on glass at 210 degrees for pla. Going back to the z 8mm threaded rod as an ending note here. If I disconnect the z stepper cable and push the x carriage down really fast, I do notice that the top of the z rod wobbles just a little bit. I think I've tried everything here, that's why I'm posting. Could that .07 mm bend in my z rod actually cause the issue I'm seeing. Is that slight wobble actually my issue. If so where could I buy a rod that would be 100% straight unlike the one I have? If I forgot anything please let me know also sorry for any typos or errors. Thanks .
  21. Yesterday
  22. I really hope you got an answer years ago, but if not - i found this link recently (for you, and others still looking for this answer): https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20510-support-3rd-party-printers
  23. aahahhahaa I agree with you, 1 waste of money in my life 🙂 I sent the company an e-mail. No one has written an answer yet. The product is very new but I can not use it at all. hope i can find a solution. if i solve the problem i will share. please wish me luck 🙂
  24. I haven't printed with PETG but I think it's similar to NEXT GEN. I use UHU glue and a Brim and make spharp corners on the base base round where possible.
  25. Thank you. Got any advice for making PETG stick to the bed? It's driving me nuts when it gets partway through the print and then starts sliding around. On a seperate note, your idea may just be the key, I tried printing a partial object with the full solid piece like it was on the original and it couldn't quite flex far enough without snapping, so now I'm printing one with your idea. One of which just came off the bed so now it's round 2.
  26. So I appear to have fixed it, though I had to go and delete all files found in the AppData Local and Roaming folders that were connected with Cura. I did a fresh install and it is launching again. I saved these files into a different space so I can go back to them. Seems to indicate that there is some form of corruption happening with the data in these files, though it is interesting as it appears to happen across all versions that are loaded side by side. Seeing as how all files seem to be segregated by user versions, except for some log files, I wonder if there was an error in log files that end up getting corrupted and causing the hang? Adam Edit: Found that there is also a set of files in the Master Area that may also contain shared files between the different versions. It could have been one of those files as well. I did not fully debug it to see. I have already spent too many hours just getting to this point, I will let the Devs take it from here to see what is going on.
  27. Those are (mostly) not “stringing”, but antennae. Caused by totally different things. Those offshoots are caused by a drop of ooze building up during the move between the columns. When the nozzle gets to the next section, the drop hits the old layer and deposits there. When it comes to that spot again next layer, the drop deposits on the previous blob. Hence the outward and upward growth of the antenna. Stringing is where the material does not leave the prior part cleanly, and a thin string connects between two sections. You see some of those between the part and antennae. Try fine tuning retraction. Too much can be as bad as too little since you don’t want to suck air up into the melt reservoir.
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