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The image you tried to attach somehow doesn't work :(. If you haven't already, I'd disconnect the printhead from the printer, so you can work at it on its own. The wires are going into the back of the printhead and are accessible from there, the outer plugs are for the part cooling fans, the inner ones go to the door, the red/white one is for the leveling sensor, the other for the front fan. you can unplug them without disassembling the head but to remove them you'll have to take the printhead apart. You can do that with the printhead attached, but for cleaning up I'd probably remove it from the printer (I haven't done a cleanup, just regular maintenance like replacing fans and a sensor wire tho). To take the lower part off, you have to remove the outer screws (above the part cooling fans), you can then carefully flap the lower part down and backwards, that should (depending on how much material is in there) give you enough room to remove the door (the sensor wire is likely to break but is rather cheap to replace, like 5-ish €). My printer is currently busy so I just googled some images that give you an idea how it looks: The connectors on the back are on this PCB: (try not to break it, it's rather expensive) The large white connector goes to the main cable, the Y rod is going through the hole in the PCB. On the other side are the spring-connectors for the Printcore contacts. If something breaks, all parts are available on their own through most resellers (if they don't have them listed, you can usually ask them and they can obtain them).

Hi @Adventurehill1, Good news, but did you use Cura 5.70, -or the previous 5.60? Your printer Positioning Accuracy X / Y / Z 0.0125 / 0.0125 / 0.0025 mm (from the user manual). Every Z micro step are 2.5 micron, so you should be able to print "some" tiny layers..

Hi @Nils_007, This is very strange. It looks like the nozzle bed height is way to high, when looking at the "brim layer". Are your printer modified in any way? Here is a link to Eirin in "fbcr8", she made this -how to remove an clean the UM2+ feeder type: https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003853603-Reassembling-the-Ultimaker-2-Ultimaker-3-Feeder Here are Troubleshooting and Advice as well: https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/categories/200330744-Troubleshooting-and-Advice I've used standard setting in Cura 5.70 and saved it as a project and from this file you can save the gcode file into your sd card for your UM2E+. Here it is: UM2E_Plus_3DBenchy.3mf However, for UM2E+ I'm using Cura version 4.13.1 (the latest version of Cura using the old slicing engine). Thanks Torgeir

Thanks. Turns out the jam went all the way up the metal inside the core... I had to remove the head, and heat gun the core while sawing it apart with a steak knife... got a new core to replace it.

Hi @Torgeir, I have a other print. I don’t know why its good at first and bad later in the print. Nils

I tried those setting sitting flat (Z straight up) and it worked beautifully. I do need a smaller layer height if I can possibly get it though.

Moin zusammen, Ich habe einen Ultimaker 2 Extended. Weil ich das Matetrial in Cura einstellen will, hatte ich bislang in den Einstellungen des Druckers Marlin eingestellt. Das funktionierte soweit super. Nun habe ich den Drucker mit einem Olsson-Block nachgerüstet und dementsprechend in Cura auch den UM2Ex mit Block ausgewählt. Wenn man nun auf Marlin ( oder etwas anderes) stellt, verschwinden alle Druckprofile (Not supported). In den Einstellungen ist unter Profile nichts mehr eingestellt und Neue können nicht erstellt werden. Egal welches Material oder welche Düse man einstellt, es ist weiterhin alles not supported. Auch ein Umstellen von Marlin zurück auf Ultimaker macht dies nicht mehr rückgängig. Mir ist aufgefallen, dass dies nur die beiden Ultimaker 2 mit dem Olsson-Block betrifft. Ich habe das mit den Cura-Versionen 5,5; 5,6 und 5,7 probiert. Habe ich hier irgendeinen Denkfehler? Oder ist das bekannt (und gewollt)? Habe leider nichts dazu gefunden 🙂 Vielen Dank im Voraus. MfG

OK! I got the printcores out - now I'm faced with clearing out the head. any ideas? i'd like to take the "door" off but there's some wires going to it. anyone have some expert advice here?

Whenever I print a round object, such as a ball, the z-seam always ends up on the outside wall, and never on the inside. From what I have seen, the seam must end up on a vertex, so if you have a box, why can't the seam be on the inner corner?

I found this but it looks old... no longer in the cura app store. I tried installing manually but keep getting a .json error when trying to extract to the cura folder on my computer https://github.com/alkaes/QidiPrint

For your information, the HMTLCuraSettings plugin is no longer compatible with Cura version 5.7. : https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/5axes/HTMLCuraSettings

Okay printing something different is actually helpful in diagnosing the issue. I see a LOT of heavy stringing. I don't trust your filament dryer. How hot did it get? Did you unspool enough filament for a cube? How long was the filament in the dryer? For PETG, 8 hours at 50C should be enough to dry any unspooled filament. Within a week the filament may be "wet" again - I'm not sure as I keep mine pretty dry. PETG seems to take longer to get "wet" than nylon or pva. To dry the entire spool it could take many days as the humidity may be far towards the center of the spool. I do like Torgeir's idea of maybe printing some PLA to verify your equipment (such as feeder steps/mm as mentioned). Also are your issues only when there is support material involved? Is everything printing beautifully when there is no support? For parts that have potential to string (islands of printing on each layer)?

Yes! There is a solution, but first: I haven't had any trouble getting all manner of filaments and colors. I have heard the most complaints about colors. For example in carbon and glass filled filaments there are probably over 100 to choose from. I do have one spool of very old 1.75 and I was able to print some recently using a new trick so I'll share that. It was quite simple. This works on S3/S5 but not on UM3 because the UM3 feeder just won't grip the 1.75mm filament. It was a shade of brown that I didn't have in stock and I didn't want to buy more filament when I had a spool already. I got some PFA tubing that was "4X2" meaning 4mm O.D. and 2mm I.D. I stuck it down into the printcore and marked where it stuck out the top. Then I cut the tubing there. I reduced retraction by about 2mm but the 4X2 bowden seems to stay pretty well inside the printcore (I was afraid it would slide up). It worked quite well. I also changed all the "flow" values in cura to 265% (which is 2.85^2/1.75^2). I also had to hand-insert the filament. Which I always do anyway so no change there. You might have to remove the normal bowden at the head to get the filament started into the smaller tube. I forget if I had to do that or not - I definitely removed the bowden at least one time. Other than that it worked pretty well. I printed 2 boxes that were each about 2 hours.

thanks! any idea what plugin I could use for this?

It is becoming difficult to get hold of 2.85mm filaments in a lot of cases now. Surprising that there isn't a conversion kit available from Ultimaker by now.

By default network connection usually only works with UltiMaker branded 3d printers. You generally have to use a plugin to enable support for 3rd party printers.

Thanks gr5! I went into the menu, and as soon as I enabled the sensor, the ongoing print paused. So it seems someone has disabled it due to it not functioning properly. I will look into this next week. fideco

I got on my router and opened the ports but it is still giving me this:

Hi @Torgeir, today the new pla came. The print looks not good. Nils

Attempting to repair a sweing tool for a neighbor. I feel this is a bad idea as all the ladies in her group are sitting there with "out of distribution" tools in various states of disrepair... This may be creality quality issues, but what I ran into was that a 0.4 snoz could not reduce the flow enough to prevent closing the gap. A 0.2 managed my 0.15 gap just fine. That said I am relying on "slashee speeds" of "dear god, I could carve this from stone faster!!!" to keep things straight and stuck together. I also had to make sure fans were cranked to for PETG to cool fast enough at the corners to avoid pulling/smudging. See, I've been listening and learnging. Your pontification into the dark recesses of issues pay off! At least for me 🙂

Oh hey I just realised that if you now have the list expanded so you can see it all and you want to export it, I don't know if there's a way in Cura, but if you're running Windows, Microsoft has a program called PowerToys which is a set of tools which can be really useful for certain things. One of the things in it is called Text Extractor, you press the shortcut (default is Win+Shift+T) and then drag it over the text you want, it takes a screenshot, does OCR on it and just puts the text itself on the clipboard so you can paste it into a text editor.

Given the stringing between those, I think what @Torgeir means is to print them individually. Turn support off, print one, turn support on, print one.

@Dustin You need to wear a bell or something so I know when someone who knows what they're talking about is around so I don't have to take a stab in the dark (or anywhere else).

And here I was thinking my "paranoid" setting for acceleration of 500mm/s² (except in support and the moves before and after, I had to create a post-processing script just for that) was low. I guess it still is, in relative figures, given the E3V3SE can pull off 4000mm/s². I usually print PLA at 60mm/s, except for infill (inner walls are the same as outer walls). When it comes to speed or acceleration, there is such a thing as too low, since it can be hard to accurately control the flow rate. I definitely wouldn't go any lower than what you're using. Playing around with jerk is a great idea (okay kids, stop giggling): it's how much the speed is allowed to change instantly at a corner, because coming to a stop then moving in the new direction would leave a blob. It's also a leading cause for vibrations in the print, which can result in uneven walls (and a whole lot more, especially if you're trying to print something big). I set mine to 4mm/s. Slows down the print, sure, but good print > quick print.

You cant skip the leveling process its required on the S series. There is workarounds you can find around the forum but these are not recommended by UltiMaker.