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Hi, so the diagnostic test is low and doesn't change with core changes, fan plugged in or not, it's always between 1.4 and 2.6. on the initial z test the extruder two is lower than extruder 1, the OP describes fault description is exactly the same as mine. the build plate climbs slowly into the nozzle compressing it into the print head, when it reaches nozzle 1 it stops and the Z motor unloads with a load buzz. I have video but i cant upload it to here thanks for the help mike

As a quick addition to the mold thing, I downloaded their models real quick and tested the mold feature on them; it seems to work flawlessly Pre-slice: Post-slice: Specific settings: mold is on, mold thickness 3mm, mold angle set to 90°

Okay, try this: If you're using the basic settings, then set Shell Thickness for the walls to 0.4: If it's using the normal profiles for Creality printers that should be one wall. Or in the custom settings, you can go to the Walls section and set Wall Line Count to 1: That makes sure that no matter what your line width is, it will only make 1 wall. Notice how the Wall Thickness option goes grey because it gets overridden by the line count. If you want it to be one wall but as thick as possible: ignore the basic settings, set the line wall count to 1 like above, and then in the Quality section of the settings set Line Width to 0.6mm. If you can't find the setting, just search for it: 0.6mm is about as wide as you can reliably do with a 0.4mm nozzle (which is what most printers come with). If that's not thick enough, you can use a combination of the line width (don't set it below 0.25mm) and wall count to get it exactly how you want it. Try to go for a few wider lines instead of several thin ones if you can. If that doesn't get it how you want, it'd be great if you could share your Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it set up then go to File > Save Project) and we could have a look at it.

The "Mold" feature under 'Special Modes' might be of use here (it's hidden by default in the printer settings). It'll only print walls that are directly outside of your model - allowing you to literally use it as a mold for your model. Only difference is that instead of using it to cast a part, you'll be using it to cut dough. The default thickness on my end was 5mm, which may be a tad much for a cookie cutter, but you can just tweak that and the wall angle to whatever you need it to be.

Thank you for you help I will update the S5 printer with CC cores

Actually now you're wrong as well. While you are correct about the UMO, UM2, UM2+. The UltiMaker 2+ Connect runs a dual microcontroller system. The motion board is still powered by the ATMEGA but the parent controlling system and what drives the display and networking is indeed a linux based system powered by an onion module. The ATMEGA is running a slimmed down version of marlin that mostly only processes commands from the master linux system. Though regrettably, yes the boot time of the 2+ Connect is very slow, there is not much that can be done about this. Since the release of the UltiMaker 3, and to the current S7. All printers run this dual microcontroller configuration though they have all gotten faster primary controller processor upgrades/memory/etc. This is why a S series (S3,S5,S7) will boot considerably faster in most cases. This is also why its not possible to plug a modern UltiMaker S series or 2+ Connect (or even UM3) into a computer via USB. The printer no longer functions as a client but a self contained host and client.

Thank you for the answer Slashee_the_Cow. Unfortunately, that does not work. That still builds the walls towards the centre and that destroys the shape of the Cookie Cutter. Of course I can redo my cookie cutters and make them as the cutter from Tschojo but I like to learn if there is a way to co what I want with the settings in Cura. If there is a way to make a wall surrounding the item/model. Using the model as what will be the hole in the cookie cutter. I made some screen prints to try and show what I mean. First the shapes I like to make mini cookie cutters from. This is the idea MaakMijnIdee described. Then with the Thickness and the infill set to 0. This build walls inward and that destroys the shape. Last I tried the Spiralize Outer Contour and that is the closest I got only the walls will be too thin. I added a picture from Thingiverse to show a cookie cutter. I borrowed it from Tschojo. The print is Creative Cookie Cutters ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38665)

If @AdamSFX doesn't reply, keep in mind that most resellers will get back to you. It looks like you are in Canada. shop3d.ca is above average in the service department and you could probably get parts from them even if you didn't buy your printer through them. But yes, it will probably cost twice as much to get the part from UM because they will probably sell you the whole PCB with several parts mounted. Also there is a high chance the part will ship from fbrc8 in the US or UM headquarters in The Netherlands to Canada and then to you so it could take a few weeks.

Greg speaks the truth but keep in mind there are hundreds of possible causes for underextrusion. I've listed all the 21 known ones for the Ultimaker 3 in other posts but every printer model is different and the gaps on the topmost layer appear much worse than the layer Greg highlights. steps/mm is never an issue on the UM3 as long as you are using stock feeders.

@AdamSFX My Ultimaker S5 screen is shattered but the screen works great and the touch is also working . Is it safe to remove the display first then the shattered glass ? Does the new display came with the glass screen ? Thanks for your help on this topic

Mit Cura 5.7 bekomme ich Fehler beim Öffnen der .3mf datei, die dann zu einem Absturz in der Cura Engine führen... Mit Cura 5.6 kann ich nach einem anfänglichen Slicing-Fehler das Projekt korrekt slicen, sehe jedoch die von dir gezeigten Fehler leider nicht. Versuche es mal probeweise mit einem anderen Slicer und öffne beim Cura Support eine Fehlermeldung.

Du hast dich wohl mit den G-Codes ein wenig vertan... ;TIME_ELAPSED:493.475547 G1 F2400 E566.62624 M140 S0 M204 S4000 M205 X20 Y20 M107 G91 ;RelativMode G1 Z3 E-2 ;Fast-Einzug und anheben G90 ;AbsoluteMode G28 X0 F2400 ;ganz nach links G91 ;RelativMode G1 E-35 F100 ;Slow-Einzug G90 ;AbsoluteMode M104 S0 ;Hotend auf Null M140 S0 ;Bed auf Null G1 X-10 Y220 F2400 ;Bed nach vorne fahren M84 ;Motoren abschalten M82 ;absolute extrusion mode M104 S0 M205 X20 Y20 ? https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M205:_Firmware_dependent Du meintest wohl G1 oder G0 G1 X20 Y20 um auf Position X20Y20 zu positionieren, da du noch im absoluten Koordinatensystem befindest. Edit: Und wenig später Referenzierst du die X-Achse... G28 X0 F2400 ;ganz nach links Und dann noch ein wenig später fährst du die X-Achse in den negativen Bereich (und wahrscheinlich in den Endstopp) im absoluten Koordinatensystem... G1 X-10 Y220 F2400 ;Bed nach vorne fahren War das so angedacht?

The under-extrusion is most likely the printer itself (knowing which printer we're talking about would be good). I think the first parameter to calibrate (or re-calibrate) is the E-steps/mm. That print does show some serious under-extrusion. The top skin should be nicely welded together with no gaps, and no ridges. To a great extent, that's the problem with the letters as well. If you happen to have used some sort of "single wall calibration cube" to tune the flow, throw it away and just calibrate the E-steps. With the Cura flows at 100% you should get a good print. If the gcode asks the printer to push 100mm of filament and the printer only pushes 85mm then that's under-extrusion and it's a problem. The E-steps being off aren't the only cause, but it's a big cause.

Can you explain anyway? Start from the begining please? There are very many causes and symptoms vary slightly as well. What do you get for a score when you test the sensor? Do you just get "leveling fails" or do you get the one where the height of the two cores varies? How much does it vary by (if you look in the log file)? Did you watch it happen to make sure it switched to the second nozzle (sometimes that is the cause - the lift switch). If the sensor gets a high (bad) score, did you unplug the front fan? You can do that at the rear of the head without taking anything apart.

There are 500 parameters. I don't want to go through them right now. But I will if you post your project file. There is not one obvious parameter to fix this. I have a few in mind but forget what they are called at the moment. I want to experiment. Will take me all of 3 minutes if you can just post the project file. Also you might need to switch to an older version of Cura. Because I have several versions installed, it won't take me long at all. If the STL file is top secret, then please create a custom one that demonstrates this problem so we can take a look at your project file. Please don't post the STL file, I want to see all your current settings and try to duplicate your problem before trying some changes. I need to know your current line width (usually your nozzle size) along with several dozen other things.

If you're in the basic print settings view, just turn Infill Density down to 0% and the top/bottom shell to 0mm: If you're in the custom view, go to the Top/Bottom section and set Top/Bottom Thickness to 0mm: then go to the Infill section and turn Infill Density down to 0%:

Did you find a fix? I have exactly the same issue and can't get a fix, the same as you I have tried all online solutions again and again, also fitted new front fan new glass printing base reverted to older firmware cleaned and checked everything. thanks bd

Thanks ! I have been playing around with this setting in a range from 100 to 125 % remarkable difference ! not yet optimized, but at least it is a good start, I am wondering how the line thickness setting is influencing the result? does it have a lot of effect on the result product, or is it just to determine the number of lines in cura? im relatively new to this matter(as you probably noticed..)

Thanks Torgeir, A brand new print core. I'll check the terminals and ensure the wires are in properly. A

At Thingiverse I found a "reversed" Cookie cutter collection. I wonder if it is possible and, in that case, how to slice it with Cura? I print with an Ender 3 pro and using Cura 5.6.0. I copy the description from the collection to here "Print only the outline of the cutter so switch off all fill setting in your slicer. A rather rough layer height setting will do. 2 layer shells will produce a fine cutter. I sliced mine in Netfabb for Ultimaker where I added 3 extra shell layers to the bottom 3mm's of the cookie cutter (using the Regions option in Netfabb) giving it a bit more strength." by MaakMijnIdee at Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35495

does anyone of you know what pitch the z screw on an s5 has?

Habe schon kleinere Positionen angefahren aber das geht auch nicht. Ja X0 entspricht G28 Er fährt ja beim beenden auf die Anschlagposition und dann auf X0 Hier mal ein G Code vom Filamentwechsel wo er auch auf -20 fährt. Filamentwechsel Zeile 3304 AK_Schutz AHK v2.gcode

It's an old thread so sorry to reply now, but since I was directed here from google when searching about the slow boot of UM2+C, it's worth correcting the statement above. The UM2+C does NOT run linux, but just a version of Marlin. If you check the schematics of the mainboard used, the microcontroller used is an ATMEGA2560, which is WAY WAY too slow to run any operating system. It runs just Marlin, and it's also not particularly good at it, if you consider that Marlin above a certain speed starts sending steps to the motors not uniformly, but in groups of two or four. Check "marlin double quad stepping", which starts happening at 10 kHz, which means for the UM2 series 125 mm/s. So we don't know why the UM2+C is so slow, but it's not linux.

Look at the prepare tab: your model is way broken: The blue and pink dot pattern generally means faces are either missing or have their normals flipped. If you're running Windows, Microsoft's "3D Builder" app (I think it comes with Windows 10 but you need to install it manually in Windows 11) is actually great at fixing models (as well as doing things like simple cuts and a bunch of other things). And because I just made some brownies and I'm in a good mood... here you go: texas1_fixed.3mf

I think I will try printing on the 200 mm square PET tape but maybe I should start at a cooler than the previously used temperatures and heat my way up only if there are adhesion issues. I do not expect any adhesion issues: According to videos I've seen, there are no insurmountable issues with ABS adhesion on PET tape under certain conditions, eg., fan blowing air over the print, etc. I plan to try the PETG on the PET tape, as well. The strings could be an advantage. It's been argued that adhesion is too great, consequently because maybe the compression or the temperature is too high on the first layer. But the print needs to come off very easily after cooling (or whenever) without damaging it. And it needs to remain as flat as possible, like a film. It could be described as a net. [There are a lot of variables there!] I am really excited about this project! I am hoping I can get close to these parameters, and I also expect to have more of my mind blown by the technology! 😄