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I tried those setting sitting flat (Z straight up) and it worked beautifully. I do need a smaller layer height if I can possibly get it though.

OK! I got the printcores out - now I'm faced with clearing out the head. any ideas? i'd like to take the "door" off but there's some wires going to it. anyone have some expert advice here?

Whenever I print a round object, such as a ball, the z-seam always ends up on the outside wall, and never on the inside. From what I have seen, the seam must end up on a vertex, so if you have a box, why can't the seam be on the inner corner?

I found this but it looks old... no longer in the cura app store. I tried installing manually but keep getting a .json error when trying to extract to the cura folder on my computer https://github.com/alkaes/QidiPrint

For your information, the HMTLCuraSettings plugin is no longer compatible with Cura version 5.7. : https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/5axes/HTMLCuraSettings

Okay printing something different is actually helpful in diagnosing the issue. I see a LOT of heavy stringing. I don't trust your filament dryer. How hot did it get? Did you unspool enough filament for a cube? How long was the filament in the dryer? For PETG, 8 hours at 50C should be enough to dry any unspooled filament. Within a week the filament may be "wet" again - I'm not sure as I keep mine pretty dry. PETG seems to take longer to get "wet" than nylon or pva. To dry the entire spool it could take many days as the humidity may be far towards the center of the spool. I do like Torgeir's idea of maybe printing some PLA to verify your equipment (such as feeder steps/mm as mentioned). Also are your issues only when there is support material involved? Is everything printing beautifully when there is no support? For parts that have potential to string (islands of printing on each layer)?

Yes! There is a solution, but first: I haven't had any trouble getting all manner of filaments and colors. I have heard the most complaints about colors. For example in carbon and glass filled filaments there are probably over 100 to choose from. I do have one spool of very old 1.75 and I was able to print some recently using a new trick so I'll share that. It was quite simple. This works on S3/S5 but not on UM3 because the UM3 feeder just won't grip the 1.75mm filament. It was a shade of brown that I didn't have in stock and I didn't want to buy more filament when I had a spool already. I got some PFA tubing that was "4X2" meaning 4mm O.D. and 2mm I.D. I stuck it down into the printcore and marked where it stuck out the top. Then I cut the tubing there. I reduced retraction by about 2mm but the 4X2 bowden seems to stay pretty well inside the printcore (I was afraid it would slide up). It worked quite well. I also changed all the "flow" values in cura to 265% (which is 2.85^2/1.75^2). I also had to hand-insert the filament. Which I always do anyway so no change there. You might have to remove the normal bowden at the head to get the filament started into the smaller tube. I forget if I had to do that or not - I definitely removed the bowden at least one time. Other than that it worked pretty well. I printed 2 boxes that were each about 2 hours.

thanks! any idea what plugin I could use for this?

It is becoming difficult to get hold of 2.85mm filaments in a lot of cases now. Surprising that there isn't a conversion kit available from Ultimaker by now.

By default network connection usually only works with UltiMaker branded 3d printers. You generally have to use a plugin to enable support for 3rd party printers.

Thanks gr5! I went into the menu, and as soon as I enabled the sensor, the ongoing print paused. So it seems someone has disabled it due to it not functioning properly. I will look into this next week. fideco

I got on my router and opened the ports but it is still giving me this:

Hi @Torgeir, today the new pla came. The print looks not good. Nils

Attempting to repair a sweing tool for a neighbor. I feel this is a bad idea as all the ladies in her group are sitting there with "out of distribution" tools in various states of disrepair... This may be creality quality issues, but what I ran into was that a 0.4 snoz could not reduce the flow enough to prevent closing the gap. A 0.2 managed my 0.15 gap just fine. That said I am relying on "slashee speeds" of "dear god, I could carve this from stone faster!!!" to keep things straight and stuck together. I also had to make sure fans were cranked to for PETG to cool fast enough at the corners to avoid pulling/smudging. See, I've been listening and learnging. Your pontification into the dark recesses of issues pay off! At least for me 🙂

Oh hey I just realised that if you now have the list expanded so you can see it all and you want to export it, I don't know if there's a way in Cura, but if you're running Windows, Microsoft has a program called PowerToys which is a set of tools which can be really useful for certain things. One of the things in it is called Text Extractor, you press the shortcut (default is Win+Shift+T) and then drag it over the text you want, it takes a screenshot, does OCR on it and just puts the text itself on the clipboard so you can paste it into a text editor.

Given the stringing between those, I think what @Torgeir means is to print them individually. Turn support off, print one, turn support on, print one.

@Dustin You need to wear a bell or something so I know when someone who knows what they're talking about is around so I don't have to take a stab in the dark (or anywhere else).

And here I was thinking my "paranoid" setting for acceleration of 500mm/s² (except in support and the moves before and after, I had to create a post-processing script just for that) was low. I guess it still is, in relative figures, given the E3V3SE can pull off 4000mm/s². I usually print PLA at 60mm/s, except for infill (inner walls are the same as outer walls). When it comes to speed or acceleration, there is such a thing as too low, since it can be hard to accurately control the flow rate. I definitely wouldn't go any lower than what you're using. Playing around with jerk is a great idea (okay kids, stop giggling): it's how much the speed is allowed to change instantly at a corner, because coming to a stop then moving in the new direction would leave a blob. It's also a leading cause for vibrations in the print, which can result in uneven walls (and a whole lot more, especially if you're trying to print something big). I set mine to 4mm/s. Slows down the print, sure, but good print > quick print.

You cant skip the leveling process its required on the S series. There is workarounds you can find around the forum but these are not recommended by UltiMaker.

Sounds like the pva is wet. https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667337600656

@jaysenodell, what the heck are you doing saying you need a small nozzle for thin gaps? You can have wide lines (as long as your filament isn't too gooey, and if it is, probably put it in a dryer) and tiny gaps if you want. The width of the gap is just some multiple of the printer's stepper resolution, and the gap is basically just line width (because you have half a line either side) + gap width, the two numbers are otherwise unrelated. Also, what the heck are you doing using a small nozzle? If you print two side by side with a tiny gap (having never tried, pulling a figure out of the air I'd guess start with 0.01mm) then the filament might expand enough to connect the two but have a weaker connection. Remember: small scale testing is your friend. Don't test stuff like this with two full size prints, just two rows 3-4 squares long so you're not using much filament (or time) each test. If you get the result you want there, then try it on the full size version.

I've had occasions when I've exported an STL from Cura, opened it in MS3D Builder to make some adjustments, and then saved it (inadvertently) as a 3mf model. When I open that 3mf in Cura the model comes in converted to centimeters instead of millimeters so it's 10 times bigger than expected. It's annoying, but only takes a second to fix. Wherever the problem is, whether it's something that Cura should know, or a consistency in translating/exporting utility's of other apps, if two programs are talking apples and oranges there is going to be a scale issue. I don't know that it's fixable. That being said, when I export a model from AutoCad and it was drawn in Inches, it comes into Cura needing to be scaled to 2540%. That's expected behavior. When I export a Benchy and it comes back the size of the Queen Elizabeth II it is unexpected behavior. In the case of Blender, it isn't really a CAD program but was intended for video game object design where models would not be required to be "watertight". You can use it, but you need to be careful that when you output the model it is watertight and all the surfaces are facing the right direction.

You will get much nicer results (typically but probably not in your case) if the letters are inset instead of sticking out. That may be good or not for cookies - not sure. You can definitely get those filled in. It looks like you have quite a bit of underextrusion - the flat layer below has lots of gaps. There should be no gaps there either. It may be the same problem (underextrusion). Try printing at half the speed you were printing at and/or clean out the nozzle. I think underextrusion is mostly your only issue however it may also be slicing this way on purpose. There are so many settings that can affect this. It's good to look at the print in PREVIEW mode in Cura to know if it will have gaps. Instead of me listing 30 to 50 settings for you to check, please post your project file so someone can look it over to see if anything needs to be changed in your cura settings. To do this, in Cura, do "file" "save project file" and post the resulting file here please. We will be able to see your STL file (your model), where you placed it, if you scaled it, what printer (machine) profile you have, material profile, and all of the 500 or so settings you are using.

Go through the menus. Pretty quickly you can find an option to enable/disable the filament sensor. I have an S5 but don't use the filament sensor and I have never run out of filament. It's not that hard to make sure there is filament on the printer but this a nice feature sometimes.

I recommend you learn a bit about getting things to stick to glass first but yes, there are 3rd party companies that will make various alternative sources. All of them should be able to handle a hot nozzle just fine. Some of the companies don't specifically mention the S5 but if you contact them they usually have that option for quite inexpensive prices. What material are you trying to print? Did you put anything on the glass (e.g. glue)? Oils from your fingers can get on the glass. Have you tried washing that off with dish soap or glass cleaner? Higher temp materials (e.g. ABS) are more difficult but I've printed pretty much every material out there on an S5 glass bed. So tell us more about what material you are printing. Personally I have the opposite problem - things stick too well and sometimes I pull up (spall) some of the glass off the bed. yes, really.