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Hello, So the noise still persists to me also. I would like to mention the following: - Core 1 - CC 0.4 new - Core 2 - BB 0.4 new (tried with Aa 0.4 the same result) - Nozzles clean - Build plate leveled and cleaned - Weirs are correctly positioned and no damage - Lift switch calibration calibrated - Tested with front fan plugged and unplugged, no difference in noise - Fan bracket alignment correct Noise level 30-60

Here are the latest updates on this case. yesterday I replaced the Z-Nut and did a testprint. Sadly this did not solve the problem. Strange thing is, the lines are getting clearer and clearer after each attempt of making the Z-Movement smoother. they are now +- 4.3 mm appart from each other. The new linear Z bearings arrived also yesterday. So this will be the next step. Is there a guide on how to replace them? As it looks, the bearings are pressed into the bed so the risk on damaging something is high on my oppinion. Any guidance is appriciated.

I watched two great videos on 'pressure advance' aka 'linear advance' after watching videos on setting up Sonic Pad. And it seems the corner will have a radius of some significant amount. This would be a tip diameter of 0.2 mm or less in a perfect world (I imagine), or if I added a little more speed relative to the extrusion rate and temperature maybe the longitudinal axis can be stretched out a bit — by fifty percent? OR, perhaps I can machine a square orifice "tip" as the final step in the extrusion, attach a plate to a 0.4 mm tip — in a more perfect world, and get 90° corners down to 0.001 mm radii (at like 350°C 450 mm/sec). I'm night-dreaming. 😹 I'm printing the Sonic Pad test tower stl now. The printing is very quiet but it takes at least ten hours to complete (if nothing goes wrong). I'm waiting and I will probably have to print 1 - 4 more over the next few days if I'm going to be doing any crazy stuff. Thanks for all your help on this. I think I'm on the right track, the 3D printing community is amazing!

It would really help if you could share your Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project). At least knowing what printer you have would help 🙂 I'm not sure if you're using the term "purge tower" correctly 😕 A purge tower is what a multi-extruder printer prints in a corner usually to get the new extruder ready when before it starts printing with it. It's completely there for function and doesn't matter if it looks like crap. I'd be very surprised if your nozzle was able to grab or push the model with such force as to move the print bed (unless the magnetic force from the bed is so weak it couldn't even hold a paperclip). Skipping a step or two on the motor when it hits a blob is something which might be possible if you don't have your belt tensioned correctly. You might also want to check your setting for Travel > Retraction Extra Prime Amount: if it's retracted the filament, that makes it push a bit more than was retracted out to make sure there's enough pressure in the nozzle that it can start extruding as soon as soon as it's supposed to, but it can also result in overextrusion. I've never needed it, but it really depends on the printer (and you're more likely to need a little bit if you've got a Bowden extruder just because of how long it takes the filament to react to changes). Also if Travel > Retract at Layer Change is on, it'll be doing that every layer, and if it's overextruding a bit that effect can sort of build up. Without a project file or anything to go on it's really hard to try and make informed suggestions.

À gauche l'impression côté plateau et à droite l'impression de l'autre côté la taille voulue est de 12.25. imprimé avec une d12 230 cura 5.7.0

Most people seem to have issues with towers toppling over. hat's not my issue. I'm printing a piece and it has a band of a different colour mid-way up and another near the top. My problem is when this colour change occurs it's leaving big blobs of filament from the band colour on the edge of the tower, each layer in a slightly different position around the edge of the tower so eventually there's a few rings of these blobs. What seems to be happening is when the band colour comes in, the hotend pauses over the the edge of the tower, after purging the filament, the tip oozes and a blob forms, the hotend then goes on to do the new layer, the blob then cools. My problem then becomes that at some point during this repeating process the hot end catches on one of these blobs which protrude above the current layer height of the tower with such force that it either moves the magnetic bed plate of it skips a tooth on the drive belt then from that point on I have a step the alignment of print (see picture) and the print is ruined. sometimes it dislodges so much it's printing in mid air for part of the print and then the old birds nest appears. It never blobs on the primary colour, only the secondary colour. I've tried different filaments, same issue, The first couple of times it happened I had the filaments at different temperatures (only 5 degrees) and I thought the temperature change was what was causing the pause. So I matched the temperatures of both filaments but I still get the pause, the resulting oozing and the inevitable blobs which in turns results in the bed shift. My towers are solid, they don't fall over but they're still causing me a great deal of grief and many a ruined print. I tried swapping to Prusaslicer, the towers are far superior but I just can't seem to dial in the print settings to get as good a print finish as I can in Cura. I a perfect world I'd have Cura but with Prusaslicer's towers, Alas not an option, can some please tell me where I'm going wrong with Cura.

There is a post processor called "Search and Replace". You would need two instances. Search = M204 Replace = M8008 and Search = M205 Replace = M8007 Those will work as long as the units are the same and the parameters are the same. Cura will use the S parameter for Accel. Other parameters for Accel would be X and Y for each axis or P and T for print and travel. You might have to get fancy with the regular expressions if there are numbers between the parameters. Jerk is by axis so it always uses X Y parameters. I think Search and Replace will start at the first layer (raft or model) but you'll need to check to make sure. Search = M204 S(\d*) Replace = M8008 P\1 T\1 Use Regular Expressions = checked would go from M204 S1000 to M8008 P1000 T1000

Versteh jetzt nicht ganz Falls es um das geht M205/M204 ist von Cura generiert, das sind die Befehle für der Ruck/Beschleunigungs Einstellung! Ich habe keine Erklärung warum er beim Filamentwechsel auf X-20. fährt und am druckende nicht. Hast du schon mal den gleichen Wert wie beim Filamentwechsel gefahren wird X-20 Y20, auch am druckende versucht, vielleicht gibt es Begrenzungen in der Firmware? Und versuch auch mal ohne G28 X0 und vielleicht einfach mal zum testen statt X-20. mal X100., fährt er überhaupt was? Mein Gedanke ist du schaltest vorher das Hotend aus, vielleicht hat die Firmware eine Funktion das bei ausgeschaltet Hotend nicht gefahren wird, bzw. in G1 gefahren wird. Du musst jetzt einfach durchprobieren, Sachen ausschließen, ich besitze den Drucker nicht daher kann ich nichts testen. So in etwa: G91 ;RelativMode G1 Z3 E-2 ;Fast-Einzug und anheben G1 E-35 F100 ;Slow-Einzug G90 ;AbsoluteMode G1 X-10 Y220 F2400 ;Bed nach vorne fahren M104 S0 ;Hotend auf Null M140 S0 ;Bed auf Null M84 ;Motoren abschalten

Hi all, Cura uses M204 to set acceleration and M205 to set jerk. My printer uses M8008 for acceleration and M8007 for jerk control. At the moment, I have to manually set global jerk and speed in the machine start g-code. Is there a way to have cura use the correct g-code commands for speed and acceleration settings in a cura profile?

Hi @Faf666, Yes, the display have this glass included, anyway here's their web site: https://www.dlcdisplay.com/ You just send a msg in this website. Thanks

Yes. No, you use your laptop for slicing and connecting to the running instance at your mini-pc via LAN and web browser. It is a bit tricky to set this up but it is possible to do if you don't want to use a Raspberry Pi (what I would suggest to do as this is how it works best. Try to find a used model 3). Maybe a good point to look at for some ideas: https://community.octoprint.org/t/setting-up-octoprint-on-windows/383 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10IZ1zE2Gww Edit: I forgot one link that is also mentioned from the community: https://github.com/jneilliii/OctoPrint-WindowsInstaller

Thank you for that. I'll take a look at 3D Builder. I appreciate your help

Je viens de l'installer (Windows 10 Pro, 64 bits), un peu long au premier lancement (analyse de l'antivirus W10), puis une fenêtre du pare-feu, mais Ok au final. Un autre membre semble avoir un problème similaire à toi ("After installing 5.7 it does not start, not even a splash screen." ):

Pas vraiment d'idée. Des photos ? Le fichier .stl ? Marque et modèle d'imprimante ? Version du trancheur ?

Go into settings and type "tower" in the settings search box. But tower can be very very useful for a dual extrusion print. So instead, go to PREPARE mode and click on the second extruder and then the second tab and then disable that second extruder. That will probably make the tower go away also and not affect future dual material prints.

thats the purge tower for dual extrusion.

Thank you, DivingDuck, I will look into the server on my tiny PC. Raspberry Pi is back to Linux, and not useful to me. So, please allow me to restate what you said to improve my understanding. The tiny PC copy of Octoprint connects to the LAN, and the 3D printer via USB. So, that would also mean that I would have Octoprint running on my laptop (where the slicer is). And that the laptop copy of Octoprint, would then send the gcode file to tiny PC copy of Octoprint, to feed it to the printer over USB? If I understand Octoprint, the copy on the laptop could display progress (and apparently camera video as well), of the 3D printer relayed by the tiny PC copy? If this is the case, it would meet all my needs.

I've included some pictures and the project file to illustrate the issue I'm having. This seems to be happening with any STL file that I open on Cura. I can't select this circular shape that generates on the corners when opening the STL file, so I have no way to get rid of it. For this example with the golf tee, it doesn't take up much space, but with bigger pieces I want to print, the extra circular piece I want to get rid of gets bigger and takes up much needed space. The STL files were made using Fusion 360 and I ensured that the only body that existed was the Golf tee as shown. Any help in dealing with this would be greatly appreciated. Golf Tee Test File.3mf

ah ok sorry

Bonjour j'ai une pièce qui a un trou mais qui n'est pas traversante et quand ce trou s'imprime côté plateau il est plus petit que prévu et quand je l'imprime pas côté plateau il est de bonne taille alors je voudrais savoir quel réglage touché dans cura pour remédier à ce problème merci d'avance

Unfortunately one test print was ok, but after I have again noise 60+, si is strange. Is the same noise even with Fan desabeld. I would like to mention the following: - Core 1 - CC 0.4 new - Core 2 - BB 0.4 new - Nozzles clean - Build plate leveled and cleaned - Weirs are correctly positioned and no damage - Lift switch calibration calibrated - Tested with front fan plugged and unplugged, no difference in noise - Fan bracket alignment correct Noise level 30-60

There are at least two ways to run Octoprint. One as a (Server-) program on a PC like in your little PC that is connected to the Printer via USB or LAN. The other way is to run Octoprint with a raspberry pi and connect this device to the printer via USB or LAN.

Ups das muss ich ändern. Dann werde ich mich wieder melden. Danke

Hello, Seems to work for me. I clean all the fans, and the plate again. Now the noise is around 10. I started a print to test. I will disconnect the front fan to see if i have any changes in noise. I will let you know.

Hello, For me the issue is solved. Seem to work. I clean again all the fans, plate etc. Thank you