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Thank you for your answers. The mold setting did the trick. I need to tweak a tiny bit to get the print exactly as I like but on the whole that was the answer. PizzaTijd: The scull is not from that collection. I included it to see how it worked with the eyes and nose. It will not be usable in a print with the others (as I like those to have a hole straight through) but that is OK. It was only added to learn from.

From what i can tell these logs are all for Dremel slicer not UltiMaker Cura. You will need to contact Dremel for help with that. As for running UltiMaker Cura it might be possible Dremel is using the same system directories as UltiMaker Cura (this has been noted to happen with other brands) which corrupts the UltiMaker Cura files. UltiMaker and most of the community here isn't able to offer much advice for unofficial releases of UltiMaker Cura.

Sounds good. And please post the project file as I think most of your issue is with the settings.

I apologize for my stridency, it was not intended to "go after" anyone. But correcting me without understanding the platform in question was 'going after' me. Especially since the my original comment on Iron Python wasn't germane to the problem, it was intended to forestall any questions about my ineptitude in Python coding. Also, telling me that logging was on by default, when my original post said that no log files were created, meant that the original post wasn't read, completely, before commenting. And lastly, I have reported all these issues, and more, on Github. I document them, and a few days later they are closed, because "further or requested information wasn't received". This has happened several times, so I despair of that path for a remedy. I have never had to do anything special, other than install the app for "all users", to make it it work with remote desktop. So as far as I know neither explicit support nor recommendation is required from Cura to make it compatible with remote desktop. And in fact, it works fine with remote desktop, as long as the remote desktop link isn't disturbed *at all*. I do note that the installer doesn't ask if it should be installed for the current or all users, and it should, or default to all users. This is a default option presented by the Windows installer, YMMV for other installers. By the bye, I also reported that to Github, and it was "closed because further information wasn't provided". I also reported that USB connection to the printer isn't consistent. I was told USB connection wasn't supported, and the issue closed. In Windows, Device cataloging, departure and arrival via the GUID is robust, so the above response is opaque. For me remote desktop access is driven by a physical disability and access to the 3D printer. It really isn't an option for me not to use remote desktop, hence the reason I'm so eager to get it working on the Z83. Again.

The system is an Acer all in one desktop running intel i5 7th gen processor. I currently have the Dremel slicer is on the machine and runs without any issues. As I have acquired an Anycubic printer I needed to install Cura to slice files for it to use. I went with Cura for the obvious reason that the Dremel slicer uses the same engine and similar GUI to make life much easier. After installing 5.7 it does not start, not even a splash screen. I am hoping that it does not mean issues with the graphics driver of the system. Any help to get this sorted out would be greatly appreciated. stdout.logstderr.log

Je précise que tout mes pilotes sont à jours

Bonjour à toutes et tous, je rencontre un problème lors du lancement de cura version 5.7.0 sur Windows 10. L'installation se passe sans problème, mai au moment de lancer l'appli rien ne se passe. Même en essayant de lancer l'appli dans le répertoire installé dans programme sur mon disque C rien ne se passe. j'ai essayé de désinstallé et réinstaller cura.exe plusieurs fois mais le problème persiste. Quelqu'un aurait il une solution à ça? Merci bien.

Thanks for the help I did only install an OE fan, the sticker/part number was backup in case the delay continued. I have contacted Support. I will check the wire routing again, are there any images of official routing? bd

Bonjour, je rencontre un problème avec l'ultimaker S5. Fichier en JP. Le volume de mon objet est bien en dessous du volume mais je reçois comme problème "e fichier ne correspond pas au volume de la fabrication ". J'ai essayé: - une rotation avant de slicer, - j'enlevé le support, - Adhésion du plateau None, -Modifier le remplissage et la densité du remplissage, -L'objet est centré au point (0,0,0), -J'ai aussi essayé les paramètre recommandés il avait fonctionner avec la roue en JP, mais actuellement j'ai essayé de refaire la roue, ça ne marche pas. J'ai diminué les dimension (50x50x1,2) sur la roue Toujours le même problème. Besoin d'aide SVP J'ai le Cura 5.7 Firmaware 8.3.1 SupportPhone.stl

it sounds like you have interference despite having decent scores. Considering you have replaced the fan, i would make sure you have not accidentally smashed wires in the printhead. Smashed wires cause noise that messes with the sensor.. sometimes these need to be replaced sometimes simply correcting the routing of the wire will fix it. I understand UltiMaker was out of stock on fans for a few weeks. But if you self sourced the fan, please ensure its the same model. A similar fan for example from amazon will usually not work and generates interference with the sensor readings. Beyond that I would recommend following the final steps at the bottom and contacting support with your log files etc as they can often help find issues or errors. UltiMaker does not provide formal support via the community, but I wanted to make sure information here was accurate and not misleading. Improperly troubleshooting the issue can endup more costly than it needs to be.

How does the system know it has touched the nozzle? Is the capacitive sensor that sensitive? it appears it doesn't detect the touching and carries on up until the Z axis stalls. bd

It is an Ultimaker 3 I have 3 of those, all more or less the same problem, after trying around I will try to get a different brand of filament …. I spend a lot of time cleaning, and calibrating, and because all 3 printers give(almost) the same result with the same settings, I’m excluding a setting (for now) they all run on the same most recent stable firmware, and have the exact same file, leading to the exact same result, with the exact same material, ordered on the same time, so I’m now going to try to exclude the materials from the problem, to see if it stays consistent ….. thanks for the tips! I let you know when i switched it…

reading through the link you referenced (again 🙂 ), the only true thing I haven't fully tested is brand new cores although two of mine are very low hours. I have ordered a new AA and BB to test tomorrow I will update you on the results. bd

Looking at how dirty beadsters printhead is inside.. and the fact that the fan sticker is some reason on the outside of the printhead makes me think the fan is too dirty or even damaged.. If that fan is not running at spec it can cause issues with active leveling. A new fan is fitted ( the sticker is to remind me of the part number because I couldn't get an OE one, which eventually arrived), and I have tried that plugged in and un-plugged, the picture is of cores that have been flooded and cleared and worked perfectly after for a long time before this fault I have new cores and still have the same problem.

not sure why you replaced the capacitive board.. unless the wires were damaged or a flooded printhead damaged it.. the issue is almost never related to that part.. the true sensing is up in the printhead pcb.. the capacitive board is more of a "antenna" to over simplify it. Looking at how dirty beadsters printhead is inside.. and the fact that the fan sticker is some reason on the outside of the printhead makes me think the fan is too dirty or even damaged.. If that fan is not running at spec it can cause issues with active leveling. People often overlook the support article for this.. but statistically it resolves a significant majority of issues. https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667410781005 It is common people skip steps on this article and its usually those cases where what they skipped was the issue.

@beadster same thing happening to me . I've tried with different nozzle in position 1 and 2 . Changed the capacitive board and glass bed . plugged and unplugged the front fan without any change to the Leveling sensor test and value , they are around 1 and 2 . I've manually leveled the build plate , reset to factory and no change at all. So to make it run , i've disabled the adaptive leveling ... by connecting in SSH ... ( not recommended ) I'm waiting on a solution to make this works ... pretty frustrating to see this 9K$ printer not being able to have an adaptive leveling working when my Elegoo Neptune 4 with klipper is able to make a bed mesh and everything for 300$

Hi, so the diagnostic test is low and doesn't change with core changes, fan plugged in or not, it's always between 1.4 and 2.6. on the initial z test the extruder two is lower than extruder 1, the OP describes fault description is exactly the same as mine. the build plate climbs slowly into the nozzle compressing it into the print head, when it reaches nozzle 1 it stops and the Z motor unloads with a load buzz. I have video but i cant upload it to here thanks for the help mike

As a quick addition to the mold thing, I downloaded their models real quick and tested the mold feature on them; it seems to work flawlessly Pre-slice: Post-slice: Specific settings: mold is on, mold thickness 3mm, mold angle set to 90° Edit: and in case of that skull model you have in one of your screenshots, it should also create walls to cut out the eyes. I can't find the model for it, so I can't test it myself, but if it doesn't print anything for the eyes to attach to, move your model up a couple mm (make sure to turn off "drop down model"), and it'll create a bottom that they will be attached to.

Okay, try this: If you're using the basic settings, then set Shell Thickness for the walls to 0.4: If it's using the normal profiles for Creality printers that should be one wall. Or in the custom settings, you can go to the Walls section and set Wall Line Count to 1: That makes sure that no matter what your line width is, it will only make 1 wall. Notice how the Wall Thickness option goes grey because it gets overridden by the line count. If you want it to be one wall but as thick as possible: ignore the basic settings, set the line wall count to 1 like above, and then in the Quality section of the settings set Line Width to 0.6mm. If you can't find the setting, just search for it: 0.6mm is about as wide as you can reliably do with a 0.4mm nozzle (which is what most printers come with). If that's not thick enough, you can use a combination of the line width (don't set it below 0.25mm) and wall count to get it exactly how you want it. Try to go for a few wider lines instead of several thin ones if you can. If that doesn't get it how you want, it'd be great if you could share your Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it set up then go to File > Save Project) and we could have a look at it.

The "Mold" feature under 'Special Modes' might be of use here (it's hidden by default in the printer settings). It'll only print walls that are directly outside of your model - allowing you to literally use it as a mold for your model. Only difference is that instead of using it to cast a part, you'll be using it to cut dough. The default thickness on my end was 5mm, which may be a tad much for a cookie cutter, but you can just tweak that and the wall angle to whatever you need it to be.

Thank you for you help I will update the S5 printer with CC cores

Actually now you're wrong as well. While you are correct about the UMO, UM2, UM2+. The UltiMaker 2+ Connect runs a dual microcontroller system. The motion board is still powered by the ATMEGA but the parent controlling system and what drives the display and networking is indeed a linux based system powered by an onion module. The ATMEGA is running a slimmed down version of marlin that mostly only processes commands from the master linux system. Though regrettably, yes the boot time of the 2+ Connect is very slow, there is not much that can be done about this. Since the release of the UltiMaker 3, and to the current S7. All printers run this dual microcontroller configuration though they have all gotten faster primary controller processor upgrades/memory/etc. This is why a S series (S3,S5,S7) will boot considerably faster in most cases. This is also why its not possible to plug a modern UltiMaker S series or 2+ Connect (or even UM3) into a computer via USB. The printer no longer functions as a client but a self contained host and client.

Thank you for the answer Slashee_the_Cow. Unfortunately, that does not work. That still builds the walls towards the centre and that destroys the shape of the Cookie Cutter. Of course I can redo my cookie cutters and make them as the cutter from Tschojo but I like to learn if there is a way to co what I want with the settings in Cura. If there is a way to make a wall surrounding the item/model. Using the model as what will be the hole in the cookie cutter. I made some screen prints to try and show what I mean. First the shapes I like to make mini cookie cutters from. This is the idea MaakMijnIdee described. Then with the Thickness and the infill set to 0. This build walls inward and that destroys the shape. Last I tried the Spiralize Outer Contour and that is the closest I got only the walls will be too thin. I added a picture from Thingiverse to show a cookie cutter. I borrowed it from Tschojo. The print is Creative Cookie Cutters ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38665)

If @AdamSFX doesn't reply, keep in mind that most resellers will get back to you. It looks like you are in Canada. shop3d.ca is above average in the service department and you could probably get parts from them even if you didn't buy your printer through them. But yes, it will probably cost twice as much to get the part from UM because they will probably sell you the whole PCB with several parts mounted. Also there is a high chance the part will ship from fbrc8 in the US or UM headquarters in The Netherlands to Canada and then to you so it could take a few weeks.