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Merci Alain_D de m'avoir aussi conseillé 🙂

👍

Bonsoir GregValiant, Merci pour votre réponse. J'ai imprimé 2 objets, et les impressions se sont très bien passées, jusqu'à 100 %. J'en ai tenté une 3ème mais au 3/4 de l'impression, la buse a tapé dans l'objet en passant de la tour d'amorçage vers l'objet. Du coup, mon objet s'est décollé. Le problème d'arrêt de la température à 98% de l'impression est donc apparemment résolu et cela grâce à vous. Depuis 5 mois que j'ai cette imprimante, personne n'avait su me donner LA bonne solution. Je croise les doigts pour que les prochaines impressions n'apportent plus ce problème ! Un ENORME merci à vous 🤩 Je saurai à qui m'adresser en cas d'éventuels futurs problèmes ☺️😉

I'm not afraid of the cow. (I'm far enough away!!)

Look @Slashee_the_Cow!!! I didn't say it!

I see the issue you are talking about above. Very strange. I tried your 3mf file in cura 5.4.0 and it sliced fine. I noticed 2 things: 1) Layers 158, 174, 250 were fine 2) Only top/bottom layers should be yellow and for me only top/bottom layers were yellow. But you show yellow layers in the screenshots above! For me the layers were "infill" which is orange. So something is very strange with your version of cura. I think this may be a known bug. Anyway I strongly recommend you install and use Cura 5.4.0. It's okay to have multiple versions of cura installed at the same time.

Ich möchte nach dem Druck das die X Achse auf -20 fährt. Habe schon etliches ausprobiert aber beim beenden des Drucks fährt ganz nach links, und dann auf die Position 0 Wie kann ich das ändern. Mein Momentaner G-Code G91 ;RelativMode G1 Z3 E-2 ;Fast-Einzug und anheben G90 ;AbsoluteMode G28 X0 F2400 ;ganz nach links G91 ;RelativMode G1 E-35 F100 ;Slow-Einzug G90 ;AbsoluteMode M104 S0 ;Hotend auf Null M140 S0 ;Bed auf Null G1 Y220 F2400 ;Bed nach vorne fahren G1 X-20 F2400 ;Bed nach links fahren M84 ;Motoren abschalten

Yes sorry, As it is not anymore compatible I've removed it from the Marketplace.

Hi @Cuq Cause of this message? "The given author does not exist."

You can try (I'd start trying at 0.1mm because I like nice round numbers) but I can't make any promises, it's sort of up to the printer at that point.

Hello community, I have a problem when slicing a part with an 83% lines infill. In some random layers and positions in the component, errors in the infill can already be seen after slicing in Cura 5.5.0, which are also visible when printing with the Ultimaker S5. The extruder does not move parallel to the previous line, but at an angle. Also, instead of a U at the end of a path, it makes an 8. This is perhaps easier to see in the following pictures. I have already tried to change some settings. However, the problem also occurs with other infill densities (80-90%), as well as with other components. Even a different positioning on the printer bed does not solve the problem. As the print is intended for CT imaging, these printing errors can be seen in the printed component. I would be pleased to receive ideas on how this can be prevented or subsequently corrected. In the attached file, the error occurs in layers 158, 174 and 250, for example. Many thanks and best regards! UMS5_Kegel_Druckfehler.3mf UMS5_Kegel_Druckfehler.ufp

I added a compatible Ultimaker S3/S5/S7 profile for PrusaSlicer On the PrusaSlicer profile settingsrepo: https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer-settings/tree/master/live/Ultimaker Implementation details: https://ansonliu.com/2024/04/ultimaker-s3-s5-s7-prusaslicer-profile/

Please see: Moonraker Connection - Ultimaker Cura Marketplace you add that plug-in to Cura, and connect it to the IP address of your Sonic Pad. Then, you can upload, or upload AND print right out of Cura itself. Very handy, and that's what I am using!!! Good Luck! --Mark

Starting with Cura 5.0 the "QT Controls" dialog boxes, settings boxes, buttons, etc. that Cura uses went to a different QT version. That Qidiprint plugin looks like it hasn't been updated in 4 years so the settings it tries to add aren't working and that causes an error. If you want to print via a network you would probably need to research whether OctoPrint is an option. There is a Cura plugin but it also requires it's own hardware (usually a Raspberry PI board).

The seam is a function of FDM printing. There will be a point on the outer wall where the nozzle starts to extrude it. The Nozzle travels around extruding the outer wall, and then ends right where it started. Those starts and ends are what makes the seam visible. There is an Inner-Wall seam, a Support seam, an Infill Seam, a Prime Tower seam, and a Support Interface seam. Even an "Ooze Shield" would have a seam. Only the Outer Wall seam is displayed because it's the only one visible on a finished print. The preview would get kind of cluttered if they were all shown.

Dont know why, other can see it.. hmmm anyway, I followed advice from monroe7 and used a solder iron to melt the mess little-by-little until it was gone. turns out the only thing the plastic was adhered to was the silicon membrane so it only took 15 minutes or so to clear it. Now I gotta remember how to put a new membrane in it 🙂

I'll just post a quick update, maybe it's useful for someone in the future :). The replacement parts just came in this week and I replaced the side panels. I initially also wanted to replace the top metal panel too, but the damage didn't seem to be too important for the structural integrity, so I decided to repair it instead. Very important: The front glass door is basically only held in place by the side panels, if you remove one it can easily fall out (and break, that's an expensive part), so I highly suggest to hold it in place with some tape. It is hold in place a little by the magnets that hold the door shut, but I wouldn't rely on that when working on the station. Also if you have no experience with repairing or at least maintaining printers, I wouldn't recommend touching that thing. To begin with, unload all materials from the station, disconnect it from power and remove the printer so you have the bare station in front of you. Place it somewhere you have some space to work and cover the area with a cardboard-sheet or something soft so nothing gets scratched. Carefully lay the station on its side, so the left panel faces up (be careful, it's quite heavy as you may have noticed). The left panel is straight forward to replace, just unscrew all bolts and lift the panel off. It might come of a little hare since the back part has some tight fit. There are bolts in different lengths used, I did just mark directly on the panel with tape where which length was used. I didn't take too many pictures with the left panel removed, because it wasn't that spectacular. The antenna of the NFC-reader is probably the most exiting thing: The right panel is a little more tricky, since there's the end-stop and dampening for the front door attached. Also remember to have the door secured. The two bottom holes that aren't present on the left panel hold the door dampening: To prevent everything from falling apart, remove all bolts that hold the right panel in place. Leave the bolts from the dampening assembly in place but loosen the screws a little (if you unscrew them completely by now the assembly will fall into the station and you'll have to rescue it. Carefully lift the panel up but leave it roughly in place, you can spot what's going on under there: The assembly should have around 2-3mm space so you can proceed. You can then carefully (somehow everything has to be done carefully here :D), rotate the loose panel around the axis of the dampening arm until you can reach into the gap to hold the dampening assembly. If there's a resistance feelable you may have to loosen the bolts a little more. In theory you can completely remove the bold heading to the back without it falling apart but I didn't have a good feeling having it just flapping around on one bolt while moving the panel. You can then remove the back-heading bolt, supporting the plastic piece with your hand and dislodge the metal arm so the panel becomes free. The panel can then be removed and the dampening-assembly unscrewed to transplant it to the new panel. To reattach the panel just do the above steps in reverse. Since the top panel was also damaged I had to do some additional steps (before reattaching the side panel): First removing the black top, it wasn't super-obvious to me first, there are two bolts on the top you have to unscrew, them the cover can be lifted upwards and be slided out the slots in the back to remove it (if you also have to do that, I'll remove the top before the side panel). The damaged part on the top panel was a threaded stand-off (the front right one) that broke away. To access that area the plastic part that holds the LED lighting and the retention levers (or how these are called) that hold the spools in place had to be removed. It's pretty easy, you have to remove five screws, four directly hold the plastic assembly, the central one also holds the magnetic sensor that detects if the door was opened. When removing that part take care for the LED-lighting wiring, since it's hooked into the metal panel. The "sealings" for the door do also have to be removed, they are just clipped in: (the picture is taken during reassembly) In case you forget that, they will just fall off (oops). To repair the standoff, I quickly designed a small block (11x30x5mm) with a hole for an M3 treaded insert and printed it as a solid ABS part on my UM2 Go. Looked like this when done and the insert molten in: I did then straighten the bent metal part of the panel, roughed up the printed ABS-part and the metal and epoxyed the thing in place: (not sure why one of the pictures is upside down) After fully dried: After the epoxy fully dried, I reassembled everything back in place. Next I moved on to removing the bottom panel to invenstigate the remaining internals I haven't inspected yet. I placed the fully assembled station upside down, be careful doing so, since the handle sticks slightly wider up than the top of the station (or probably just straight even, but I didn't want the station stand on that), so I placed it at the edge of my table. Before proceeding it's very important so secure the door, since we are manipulating both side panels that hold the door. To remove the bottom panel, the bottom most bolts on both side panels have to be removed and for better accessibility the four bolts one row above have to be loosened a little so the panels can be slightly loosened to remove the bottom, it's held in place by slots in the back and these studs on the side. Here are some pictures from the inside: Since everything was in place, properly secured and intact I reattached the bottom. Here's how it looks with the new panels: And the broken ones 🫠: Lastly I assembled the printer-setup back together and it looks nice again now 😀: (the small bottom dresser fits so perfectly, it nearly appears to be an OEM part 😅) Became a little long for a quick update but maybe it helps someone in the future or is at least interesting to someone 🙂

The image you tried to attach somehow doesn't work :(. If you haven't already, I'd disconnect the printhead from the printer, so you can work at it on its own. The wires are going into the back of the printhead and are accessible from there, the outer plugs are for the part cooling fans, the inner ones go to the door, the red/white one is for the leveling sensor, the other for the front fan. you can unplug them without disassembling the head but to remove them you'll have to take the printhead apart. You can do that with the printhead attached, but for cleaning up I'd probably remove it from the printer (I haven't done a cleanup, just regular maintenance like replacing fans and a sensor wire tho). To take the lower part off, you have to remove the outer screws (above the part cooling fans), you can then carefully flap the lower part down and backwards, that should (depending on how much material is in there) give you enough room to remove the door (the sensor wire is likely to break but is rather cheap to replace, like 5-ish €). My printer is currently busy so I just googled some images that give you an idea how it looks: The connectors on the back are on this PCB: (try not to break it, it's rather expensive) The large white connector goes to the main cable, the Y rod is going through the hole in the PCB. On the other side are the spring-connectors for the Printcore contacts. If something breaks, all parts are available on their own through most resellers (if they don't have them listed, you can usually ask them and they can obtain them).

Hi @Adventurehill1, Good news, but did you use Cura 5.70, -or the previous 5.60? Your printer Positioning Accuracy X / Y / Z 0.0125 / 0.0125 / 0.0025 mm (from the user manual). Every Z micro step are 2.5 micron, so you should be able to print "some" tiny layers..

Hi @Nils_007, This is very strange. It looks like the nozzle bed height is way to high, when looking at the "brim layer". Are your printer modified in any way? Here is a link to Eirin in "fbcr8", she made this -how to remove an clean the UM2+ feeder type: https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003853603-Reassembling-the-Ultimaker-2-Ultimaker-3-Feeder Here are Troubleshooting and Advice as well: https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/categories/200330744-Troubleshooting-and-Advice I've used standard setting in Cura 5.70 and saved it as a project and from this file you can save the gcode file into your sd card for your UM2E+. Here it is: UM2E_Plus_3DBenchy.3mf However, for UM2E+ I'm using Cura version 4.13.1 (the latest version of Cura using the old slicing engine). Thanks Torgeir

Thanks. Turns out the jam went all the way up the metal inside the core... I had to remove the head, and heat gun the core while sawing it apart with a steak knife... got a new core to replace it.

Hi @Torgeir, I have a other print. I don’t know why its good at first and bad later in the print. Nils

I tried those setting sitting flat (Z straight up) and it worked beautifully. I do need a smaller layer height if I can possibly get it though.

Moin zusammen, Ich habe einen Ultimaker 2 Extended. Weil ich das Matetrial in Cura einstellen will, hatte ich bislang in den Einstellungen des Druckers Marlin eingestellt. Das funktionierte soweit super. Nun habe ich den Drucker mit einem Olsson-Block nachgerüstet und dementsprechend in Cura auch den UM2Ex mit Block ausgewählt. Wenn man nun auf Marlin ( oder etwas anderes) stellt, verschwinden alle Druckprofile (Not supported). In den Einstellungen ist unter Profile nichts mehr eingestellt und Neue können nicht erstellt werden. Egal welches Material oder welche Düse man einstellt, es ist weiterhin alles not supported. Auch ein Umstellen von Marlin zurück auf Ultimaker macht dies nicht mehr rückgängig. Mir ist aufgefallen, dass dies nur die beiden Ultimaker 2 mit dem Olsson-Block betrifft. Ich habe das mit den Cura-Versionen 5,5; 5,6 und 5,7 probiert. Habe ich hier irgendeinen Denkfehler? Oder ist das bekannt (und gewollt)? Habe leider nichts dazu gefunden 🙂 Vielen Dank im Voraus. MfG

OK! I got the printcores out - now I'm faced with clearing out the head. any ideas? i'd like to take the "door" off but there's some wires going to it. anyone have some expert advice here?