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You will get much nicer results (typically but probably not in your case) if the letters are inset instead of sticking out. That may be good or not for cookies - not sure. You can definitely get those filled in. It looks like you have quite a bit of underextrusion - the flat layer below has lots of gaps. There should be no gaps there either. It may be the same problem (underextrusion). Try printing at half the speed you were printing at and/or clean out the nozzle. I think underextrusion is mostly your only issue however it may also be slicing this way on purpose. There are so many settings that can affect this. It's good to look at the print in PREVIEW mode in Cura to know if it will have gaps. Instead of me listing 30 to 50 settings for you to check, please post your project file so someone can look it over to see if anything needs to be changed in your cura settings. To do this, in Cura, do "file" "save project file" and post the resulting file here please. We will be able to see your STL file (your model), where you placed it, if you scaled it, what printer (machine) profile you have, material profile, and all of the 500 or so settings you are using.

Go through the menus. Pretty quickly you can find an option to enable/disable the filament sensor. I have an S5 but don't use the filament sensor and I have never run out of filament. It's not that hard to make sure there is filament on the printer but this a nice feature sometimes.

I recommend you learn a bit about getting things to stick to glass first but yes, there are 3rd party companies that will make various alternative sources. All of them should be able to handle a hot nozzle just fine. Some of the companies don't specifically mention the S5 but if you contact them they usually have that option for quite inexpensive prices. What material are you trying to print? Did you put anything on the glass (e.g. glue)? Oils from your fingers can get on the glass. Have you tried washing that off with dish soap or glass cleaner? Higher temp materials (e.g. ABS) are more difficult but I've printed pretty much every material out there on an S5 glass bed. So tell us more about what material you are printing. Personally I have the opposite problem - things stick too well and sometimes I pull up (spall) some of the glass off the bed. yes, really.

As someone who has never printed PVA, I can somewhat confidently say that either you have it too hot or that you have it too hot for your flow rate. @gr5 might be around here somewhere and can possibly give you a better answer.

I may be silly, but a small nozzel will let you do thin lines. Thin lines allow thin gaps. The big things in my experience will be slowing way down and running cool/cooling so that the corners stay tight and don't merge. I know @Slashee_the_Cow, what the heck am I doing using small nozzels? i don't know, but I don't like it. I do NOT like it!

I know UltiMaker printers are treated specially in Cura (and I don't have one, so I don't know exactly how) but if you go into the settings for your printer, in the startup gcode, if there's a line that starts with G29 remove it.

I notice you mention blender... I use freecad. i don't get any notifications unless my models are completely unusable (which is more common than I care to admit). maybe the problem isn't in Cura?

My company has a Ultimaker S5 pro with a glass bed. we are having a lot of issues with the prints not sticking to the bed or warping badly. My printer at home uses a PEI bed with no issues at all so I am looking into converting it to PEI. Is there anything special that needs to be done to convert it over? I have seen that the nozzles touch the glass bed to probe for z height. Will this cause the PEI sheet to melt?

das ganze ergibt dann ja null Sinn. ich will doch nich 20 Druckprofile haben. ich glaube ich werde mal versuchen ob der Prusaslicer mit dem drucker umgehen kann... Trozdem Danke für die Antwort.

It could be the power brick or it could be the cpu. I suspect it's the power brick as those die more often. You can prove it's the bed by not using the heated bed. You can use painters tape on the glass, clean the painters tape with Isopropyl alcohol to remove the waxy surface of the tape (otherwise parts won't stick). Re-level as the tape has a thickness to compensate for. Try to do a print. If the computer doesn't reset then the problem was with the power supply. Make sure the heated bed temp is set to zero when doing the test! To me it really looks like the power supply. They cost about $90 USD. If you want a cheaper solution, note also that the printer is using the most power when it is heating up. You can force the printer to use less energy with some special firmware for the UM2: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1 Download the hex file about 5th blue link from the bottom. Make sure it says "plus". NOT "dual". Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2plus-19.03.1.hex You need a USB connected from the printer to your computer to install firmware. You can use Cura (or arduino ide) to install custom software. It will ask for this hex file. Once the new firmware is installed, find the "power budget" feature. I believe the default budget is: nozzle: 25W bed: 150W total budget: 175W Only mess with the total budget. Lower that by 50W (50 watts). That will reduce the power only to the heated bed.

Weil das Druckprofil nicht mit dem Materialprofil zusammen hängt. Wenn ich jetzt z.B. im Materialprofil von PLA was anlege und dann nachher ein anderes Material wechsle, übernimmt er das nicht. Man muss da vorher entweder das richtige Material wählen und DANN erst das Profil anlegen, oder man macht alles im PLA Profil und stellt da alles so ein wie mans braucht für das jeweilige Material (wie ich z.B., ich pfeif da komplett auf eigene Materialprofile, macht null Unterschied).

Die offenen Fragen kann ich aktuell nicht beantworten. Wegen der Problematik Düsenversatzsondierung kann ich leider nichts Drucken und die Druckköpfe nicht kalibrieren. Auch ein Wechsel der Druckköpfe bracht kein Erfolg. Die Druckplatte habe ich zum wiederholten mal nivelliert. Leider erscheint diese Fehlermdeldung immer wieder.

Hi, I have got some issues printing cookie cutters, I have openings in my letters which is not what I would like to have, and I can not get it much better , thank you so much for any advice !

I really love the autolevelling of my S5. But still, hasn't anyone made a plugin or something that makes the S5 (etc) skip the autolevelling, sometimes when printing a few very small parts after each other it wouldn't be needed and could save a big portion of the time.

Which settings in Cura need to be changed in order to prevent an excessive amount of burnt black crust forming on the nozzle when printing with PVA? I am using an Ultimaker S3, and only have this buildup of black debris form when printing with PVA. How can we fix this issue without causing adhesion issues etc.?

Hallo zusammen, ich bin gerade über etwas gestolpert was ich nicht verstehe. Ich habe für ein Filament ein Materialprofil mit den Temperaturen und dem Flow angeleht soweit so gut, Material in Cura ausgewählt und dann das Fine Engineering Druckprofil gewählt. Meine Frage ist nun warum greift das Druckprofil nicht die Temp und Flowwerte aus dem Materialprofil ab sondern setzt andere Werte. Woher kommen diese Werte ? Für einen Tipp wäre ich euch Dankbar.

New price

I recently started a new job, and here we have a S5 machine. I am currently used to Prusa, as this is what I have at home. I started a print job yesterday before I left work, and arrived this morning to find the printer announce a completed job, but the printer had ran out of filament about mid print. I believe the printer should have a filament sensor to pause the print, but this didn't happen in this case. Any quick ways to test if the filament sensor is faulty or stuck? fideco

Click the fx button and it will return to being automatically calculated (which just sets it to the layer thickness whenever you change that) and save your profile.

The post-processing script button only appears at the bottom right of the window if you already have any scripts enabled. If you don't, you get to it through Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code.

*browses Creality website* Oh god, they're making it harder to differentiate between models. And the page for the Ender-3 V3 (not to be confused with the Ender-3 V3 SE or Ender-3 V3 KE) says it does run software based on Klipper. AFAIK every other Ender series printer so far has just used Marlin, with a customised (and less useful) user interface on some of the newer models. Klipper does support a subset of Marlin commands, designed to be enough to be able to print a model from Marlin gcode. Which is good, because Cura doesn't have native support for Klipper (although there is a Klipper Settings plugin available and I have no idea what it does because I'm not running Klipper). Probably. but bear in mind that the maximum build volume of the V3 is smaller (only 250mm instead of 270mm high). You could probably use Cura with a laser powerful enough to obliterate the Earth if you wanted to. But yes. There isn't a profile for the Ender-3 V3 (UltiMaker isn't responsible for profiles for third party printers, they need to be contributed by either the manufacturer or the community) but the profile for the Ender-3 V3 KE should be close enough. It's entirely possible your print profiles might not transfer over automatically. You can try selecting your S1 Pro, export the profiles, switch to the V3 and import them. Otherwise... have two Cura windows open side by side and copy them over manually. One thing I have to warn people about with most of the V3 series, this one included: Creality seems to be in a pissing contest to see who can make the fastest printer. Just because you can go fast doesn't mean you should. Most materials are designed to be printed at a certain speed, and to do stuff really fast you need special high speed PLA. You should manually set the speed to whatever is appropriate for your material.

hello guys. I wanted to give you an update on my testing. After intense cleaning the lines were getting worse (model on the left 1st picture). because of the pattern the lines had, I sugested some issues mwith the bearings or the nut. So I wanted to eliminate the nut as potential problem and removed it for cleaning. it was pretty clean from the last cleaning. but I realized, that the cover at the back of the bed was giving some friction to the guidingbars. So I removed the cover. then my printer came up with something new. as you can see in the right picture, the line problem is much less. but in the first cm there is a new linepattern which vanished after short. IT seams as if it disapeared as soon an the gap started in the model. any suggestions what that could be? this thing drives me crazy!

The PETG is very interesting. I like the UV resistance and that it can be printed semi-transparent, an important property. The temperature settings are lower, that's nice too. That it sticks to glass and breaks it off, yet nothing can be glued to it is hilarious! I watched this: The print I'm working on is less than 2 mm high or wide. It's like a flat net that must be lifted from the printer bed and then transferred onto another flat surface. What will be more demanding in the future I can imagine, will be to print adjacently with a 0.2 mm gap, or less, in between (see image below). It would be amazing if the two prints could be separated later by tearing them apart (without using too much force, that is, e.g, strings). Any idea if this is possible (see 3MF file), or a meaningful aspiration? LOL Thank you! CE5S1_28_array.pair.3mf

Hello community, I've encountered an issue while printing with my Ultimaker 2+. In the attached video, you can see the problem occurring during the printer's preparation phase. However, after turning it off and waiting for it to completely shut down, I restarted it and attempted to print again. Unfortunately, the same issue occurred halfway through the printing process, as shown in the video. Any insights or advice on resolving this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!