Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Actually the CuraEngine does it after every 10000 mm³ extruded volume. More about the reason here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/14 Exceptions are single extruder machines with GCode flavors "Bits from Bytes" and "Makerbot" for reference: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/master/src/gcodeExport.cpp#L862 (dunno if this is of any help... it's perhaps easier if you fix your software... 😛)
  3. Hi Guys! I had this kind of layer separation. It coincides to the side that isn't facing the wall. I think this is due to the material cooling and contracting, am I right? Do I need an enclosure? Thanks!
  4. It was me, you're very welcome! I use 0.1mm for PETG and don't normally have any problem removing the brim. As I mentioned above, one thing that really helps with avoiding corners lifting is to use a high build plate temp. For me, going from 55 to 75 degrees reduced the corner warping considerably.
  5. Using a clamp or not, I think the most important is proper working of the magnets, that hold the fan bracket close. If that's not the case, there's a good instruction video, provided by @fbrc8-erin: However it is achieved: preventing a head flood is preventing lots of frustration. Regards
  6. Hi pra04dpc, I think the reason the print core was "stuck" was because of the broken print core wire. I have just had a similar problem and can't seem to remove the print core manually if one of those wires is disconnected. Did you ever manage to remove your print core?
  7. Today
  8. Playing the game WILL result in experience 😉. I forgot to mention that my experience is made with an UM3, 0.4mm nozzle, so the gap value may vary for other printers / nozzle sizes / materials. A higher gap value for PETG may result in what I experienced with PLA, but I wasnt brave enough going above 0.3 at all (It's just trial and error and achieving a big learning curve while playing the game 😉).
  9. Thanks for that information. I did 0.1 on PETG can’t wait to get home and see how it peels. Next time I’ll try 0.3mm. The other thing i’m a huge fan of in Cura are the tree supports. They are a game changer (not that I have much experience in the game).
  10. Hi, the brim gap was the most useful enhancement of the last cura versions. My first test after availability was printing a comb (PLA), using a 0.2mm gap. It printed perfect and the brim just separated while removing the print from the build plate, resulting in the cleanest first layer I ever got (no elefant foot). Printing with CPE (PETG), a 0.3mm gap results in a very well adhering brim, which can be removed nearly perfect, just bending up and down. Many thanks to all who were involved in the implementation of this great feature. Regards
  11. So i have a wanhao duplicator and it only accepts gcode... how exactly do you switch from the .upf to gcode in the ultimaker program? Or even when i save a obj file is there anyway to convert these files into gcode?
  12. Hi Greg, @GregValiant Thanks for your reply. Is there a way to stop the reset to zero and just have it increment past 4000? I think I understand why they are resetting around that many increments. Possibly due to Encoder constraints and rollover? I am not running Marlin firmware. I am making my own code and my interpreter doesn't like G92 unfortunately( I know really Dumb haha). I was able to print most of my part until G92 was called. Then the stepper direct drive went in reverse and kicked out my filament haha. It was pretty exciting. Best Regards, Wallfort94
  13. I guess a better test at the end would be to do: G1 Y2 G1 Y1.5 G1 Y0.5 to see if it hits the limit switch before it gets to Y=0.
  14. It may have hit the limit switch when you used the G1 command. Meaning if not for the limit switch it may have tried to go beyond 0,0.
  15. The reason I said it wasn't slipping or loosing steps was because I moved it back to 0,0 with G1 command without rehoming it. and it was right on the limit switch and M114 says it is exactly x0 y0. I am printing it again with the old gcode to make sure right now. It doesn't look like the gcode positions are off because stepping thu it in octoprint it does not look like the walls are shifting. I'll try some settings and try again when this on goes far enough to see how straight it is.
  16. Thinking some more, it seems tightening pulleys but also "travel speed" are the top 2 things to mess with. Let us know what it was. You are not the first to post about this issue for a prusa-like printer and most people fix the problem without sharing the solution.
  17. It's losing steps or slipping. Oops I said it, lol. So when you go back to 0,0 it's homing and using the limit switches (or if it's not homing it still stops when it tries to go past the limit switch it just stops when it hits the switch). I believe the entire bed moves on a Prusa when you move Y so this is a common axis to slip or lose steps. The problem could be many things - the first things to check are jerk and acceleration. Make sure jerk and acceleration control are disabled in cura (one checkbox for each feature). Then there are other possibilities. Marlin (the firmware on Prusa and on Ultimaker printers) has a lot to be desired. You can exceed the steppers ability if you give it the right gcodes. So basically I'd set the speed to what you are used to on Prusa and then search for "speed" in settings and make all the printing speeds the same (by default Cura does 200% speed I think for infill for example). Most importantly lower travel speed by 50% as a separate experiment. Or just try everything and then undo each feature to see which one was the cause. Also just tighten any pulley that might be slipping - particularly the one on the stepper. Tighten the set screw - tighter than you think is enough. If you use an L shaped allen wrench and grip the short end of the L it should hurt your fingers. So tight that that wrench twists a bit. Scary tight. There are other settings that are different from prusa slicer that you don't need and might be contributing so: disable coasting disable "retract before outer wall" disable "avoid printed parts when traveling" (I doubt it's this one)
  18. Hi, das ist schon korrekt. Dafür wurde auch das Raft eingeführt. Bei den heutigen Druckbetten für gewöhnlich meist nicht notwendig, wobei bei bestimmten Anwendungen durchaus Sinnvoll und Vorteilhaft... Eine gewisse Verbreiterung der Line Width macht schon Sinn beim ersten Layer. Der Fluss läuft in alle möglichen Berechnungen ein. Line width sagt dem Slicer im Gegenzug nur, wie breit die Raupe sein soll und somit in welchem Abstand die Bahnen gezogen werden sollen. Aber beides ist, wie gesagt, keinesfalls dafür gedacht, eine ungenügende Kalibrierung zu kompensieren. Im Gegenteil: Ein unebenes Bett ist eines. Das Material kann "verdrängt" werden. Stimmt jedoch die Kalibrierung nicht, so ist es nicht unbedingt uneben, sondern der Abstand zu hoch (= misserable Haftung und Optisch sehr unschöne erste Layer) oder zu niedrig (= extreme Pressung des ersten Layers bis hin zu Folienartig durchsichtigem ersten Layer -> im Extremfall kann dies sogar zum Clogging/Verstopfung der Düse führen). Kannst aber mal nach Einstellfahrplan im Forum 3D-Druck-Community suchen. Da wird das Haarklein beschrieben. Gruß, Digibike
  19. I built my printer and have been adjusting it so far. I do have a little knowledge of printers due to making prototype parts for a printer company (DeltaMaker) on cnc lathes and mills. Now for the problem. I was using Prusa slicer and it was printing ok just didn't quite like the slicer so I am trying Cura. The first print was of a piece that was already printed with Prusa. This time with Cura it was printing and the y axis was leaning to the rear in steps. Including pics. Now before you say its losing steps or slipping, I canceled the print and immediately moved the x and y axis back to 0 position and they were still exactly at the 0,0 homing points. I haven't looked thru th G code yet but am going to. Does anyone have any experience with this problem. It only changed when I switched to Cura. I think I would like Cura better as long as I can get this stopped. Thanks for any help.
  20. yes (to both questions). All these numbers are only guesses, estimates and averages anyway. 🙂 As long as you use the default PSU and everything runs stable - just leave it at this. Good luck with the PID tuning!
  21. (TL;DR: last paragraph only) I’m still a noob been doing this for about a month. It’s been fun. I suppose I’ll start a little off topic and this may end up being a nozzle/clog thread instead. So I’ve noticed that as a print proceeds it seems to tend towards underextrusion over time. Which is fine in terms of my models. They come out just fine and strong. This is PETG at 245C. The issue is excitement to start the next print and last night this happened. I didn’t even clean the nozzle properly (Bed was cleaned properly though) and started another print. What I noticed was the first layer was super thin and since i’m printing at 0.12mm I got excited about how thin and translucent it prints and how much resolution that would yield in the final model. It was also uneven in thickness and opacity. It had cool lines though. Turns out I was wrong. That was gross underextrusion happening in front my eyes and I didn’t even realize what was wrong. In any case first layer is set to 0.2mm so it should look the same as a 0.2mm print in the first layer. This morning I woke up to the print partially torn off the bed with spaghetti stuck to the nozzle getting pushed around. I cleaned the nozzle properly and the bed and restarted. The new print had a beautiful first layer that was thick enough to be opaque with a nice clean matte finish that looks like it will adhere subsequent layers like a champ. So I got a nice lesson in what a first layer should look like and a reminder that first layer is 0.2mm anyway. My question is what am I doing wrong? Actually I know but what can I do to prevent this? My suspicion is that just sitting there extruding into a blob of melted plastic primed the extruder really well and cleared any clogs. The flow was perfect and the first layer, well I wish I took a picture of it, it was so even and prefect. So getting the point should I be extruding a certain length before I start a new print? Should I use my cleaning filament each time? Or maybe it’s because I haven’t used a cleaning filament since the last roll? I think about 500g have gone through without a cleaning filament run at least. What are best practices for nozzle maintenance? Both between prints and at certain intervals.
  22. Yes sounds like a great idea. The setting itself says the thermal benefits are preserved. I have a print running with a 0.1mm gap. Let’s see how it works. If it’s smooth I’ll reprint a screen face i’m printing. I want it to look good. I also have an upgraded fan and keep it off for 2 layers and 40% after for PETG works well. I still get some curled edges very minor though.
  23. That'd be great. We have created an internal ticket for this problem as well, I expect it to be picked up soon, but likely a firmware release is needed to deploy a fix to the field.
  24. When generating Gcode for my Creality machine (Marlin), Cura will keep building up the E value until it gets north of 4000, and then it resets it to zero and starts up again. I have suspicions as to why that is but I don't really know the reason, I just know it's true. In a large file that will happen multiple times. In your code snippet - the first Q1 after the reset is in line with the extruder having been reset to zero. It will print fine.
  25. That's right. But I think it would be better to separate the correction requests for each translation language into a separate topic. Please consider this.
  26. Danke für die Antwort. Man findet halt häufig den Hinweis, dass man durch eine verstärkte Extrusion Unebenheiten beim Druckbett ausgleichen kann. Teilweise wurde der Fluss der ersten Schicht angeführt, weshalb ich verwundert war, weshalb es diese beiden Einstellungen gibt und nicht der Fluss, sondern die Linienbreite standardmäßig erhöht war. Es macht aber für ein richtig kalibriertes Bett Sinn. Den Hinweis zum Fluss beim PLA probiere ich einmal aus.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...