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  2. You're welcome. I've just found your YouTube channel on Google plus your patreon link. I've dropped you a YT sub too. I'll take a look at your patreon when I'm back from my night shift. Thanks again mate
  3. If I buy the heated bed from GR5 Store (is that you??) would I then change to load the HBK version? Thanks
  4. Apologies! The mock-up has finished printing. Can you see these pics? I think I can fix my immediate issue by extruding the floor down a few mm. Each square in the base will have an LED in it.
  5. Today
  6. Thanks for the kind words!!. Im putting all my stuff up there. Just lookup cloakfiend on patreon! There is only one. Not sure i can post links here! Let me know if you still cant find it!
  7. Our expert, @burtoogle, has been missing from the forum for 3 weeks. He's probably very busy with other things. This wouldn't be the first time he "disappeared" for a month. I'm in a slack group with him and ahoeben and he hasn't spoken there in a while either. Hopefully he is fine.
  8. Oops. Yes. I think I "pointed" you to an HBK version (which is what I have on my 3 um2gos) without thinking. If you load the wrong one you won't break anything. The HBK one will complain that the bed is too hot. Similarly with the dual extruder firmware - it will complain that extruder 2 is too hot.
  9. Thank you for getting back to me. I'll besure to check out your patreon! You've done a great job on it mate Edit: I forgot to ask for a link to your Patreon
  10. The teeth aren't quite connected to the pulley body. I tried the mesh fixer in Cura and it seemed to make a bit of a difference but it still wasn't forming the radius between the teeth. I think the problem is with the model as well. Instead of being part of the pulley, the teeth are just really close to the pulley.
  11. I don't see any pictures. Okay - it looks like they are hosted on google and we don't have authorization to see them. Maybe if you modify the pics so they are visible to anyone? I still don't understand what I'm seeing in the first picture. I think of jars (and tip jars) as very simple cylinders. I understand you mention led light channels but no clue on the 3d path for those. Why doesn't the bottom of the jar touch the print bed? It might help if you use "line type" for your coloring because right now it's almost all dark gray and hard to tell what is support, what is shell, what is infill.
  12. This model is one of my own. But its in my patreon if you really wanted it! I've cleaned it up a bit since these were taken.
  13. Try putting an M220 S100 at the beginning of the Gcode file. If that works then put one in the Start-Up gcode in Cura so it will get added to every file. You'll still want to chase down what is really going on with the high feed rates.
  14. Quick answer: Once in a time there was a Heated-Bed-Kit available from 3D Solex, that's what HBK stands for. That sounds correct to me.
  15. I also had this problem after updating to 4.7.1. Previously sliced prints turn out fine. To add to the confusion I had just made changes to the hot end at the same time! Will give 4.6.1 a try and see what happens
  16. Orginal : Warte der Beitrag ist zwar alt aber kann man so den umo auf 1.75 filament umrüsten ? google translate : Wait ,the post is old but can I so convert the umo to 1.75 fliament?
  17. Hi, I'm looking for the .stl of this bully trophy but I cant find it... If anyone could please help me that would be great! ...You can't beat a bit of bully
  18. Thanks a lot eldrick. Mari figures it almost can't be done. I spend 20 minutes coming up with a complicated incomprehensible solution that has a .0000001% chance of working, and you stick in a 2 line fix. I'll have you know that if Xscale <> Yscale by more than about 50% that Horizontal Expansion won't work on a reindeer. So there.😜
  19. Okay so the problem is described here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/8229 Still think the old solution was much better!!!
  20. Yes I saw that there is no m220 command but still the print is going really fast. That is why I noticed the high feedrate value.
  21. In Cura 4.7.1 all my profiles went missing and I can't import them form 4.5. (It shows a dialog box "Successfully imported profile.....!" - But it does show up after!!! ... Also creating a new profile doesn't work!
  22. Feed Rate % is set by M220 and there isn't one in either file. The problem has to be in the printer/firmware. In the second file the skirt is printing at a sedate 20mm/sec so at 800% it would be 160mm/sec which is really flying. Is that what it's doing? If it's moving relatively slowly then the display is wrong but the feed rate setting is correct at 100%.
  23. Mari

    4.7.1

    Telling us only the version will not help to solve you problem! What kind of computer? OS? What is the error you get! Most problems are easy to solve by restarting the computer or re-installing the software.
  24. Hi UlrichC-DE It seems you are right. It only happens on a large print, where there is lots of long distance movement of the print head. It seems filament was pulled bit far and I can hear noise when it retracts. The layer height setting was between 0.2 to 1 mm with 0.4 print head. I didn't change material, was using PLA (ultimaker) the whole time. Fan was on. First layer seems fine, the problem occurs duing the infil progress. I will keep observing this. Many thanks for the help.
  25. On your picture the tension of the feeder was set to max high. If the feeder has such a high tension, this usually causes a blockage of the print head. Technically: - The material builds up a higher tension in the bowden tube. - During a retraction, the material relaxes in one go - The filament is pulled too far out of the print head. - When the filament is pulled hot out of the print head, it sticks to the cold area in the print head - A plug is formed. In most cases you can leave the feeder in the middle position. All generic Ultimaker printer profiles and also Ultimaker materials do not require a different setting of the feeder. The screw is often the first to be turned if the printer is not extruding enough. But actually, this is pretty much the last step in the printing process to eliminate problems. First I would clean the print head. A few points that make life easier in the beginning - I would only print fine or normal (at least not fast) with 0.4 print head. - If I change the material with a high temperature difference, I clean the print head first - I check the fan in the front of the print head before each print (this is also a point like @Smithy suggested) - I also look at the first layer when printing. From this you can deduce if the printing will work. (At some point you get an eye for it. But only if you actually look at it).
  26. OK thanks Found the Tinkergnome 19.03.1 at https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1 I see that there are 4 files for UM2Go. Obviously I do not have a dual version (who knew that one could?). What does HBK mean? I am assuming that I load the plain/non-HBK version Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2go-19.03.1.hex I have Windows 10 laptop. Any thoughts/advice about custom printer profile in Cura?? Thanks MM
  27. Hi UlrichC-DE I have tried different tension setting for the feeder, all the way from top, middle and bottom, and I have no luck with the material grinding. However, last night I have turned off the flow sensor, it seems to print fine now. Many thanks
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