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  2. Hi Jakob! Danke fürs Feedback! Um den Chimera+ auf 3 mm umzubauen musst du schon ein paar Sachen machen. Auf der 2. Seite ziemlich unten habe ich das genau beschrieben, wie ich das gemacht habe (inkl. Bild). Hast du das schon gelesen? Um die Anfertigung der neuen Heatbreaks wirst du nicht herumkommen. Da gibt es einige Seiten im Internet, wo du das machen lassen kannst. Mit ca. 100€ wirst du rechnen müssen; dafür gleich aus Titan am besten. Die ist dann sogar besser als die 1.75mm Heatbreaks von E3D, weil die sind nur aus Edelstahl (Wärmeleitfähigkeit). Die Bowden Kupplungen habe ich zuerst mit Epoxydharz verklebt, hat jedoch wegen den hohen Temperaturen im Heated Chamber nicht gehalten. Mit Raumtemperaturen wird es wahrscheinlich funktionieren aber am besten ist, dass du die Kupplungen gleich anschweißt - ist aber auch nicht grad einfach wegen der dünnen Wandstärke. Wenn du sonst noch spezifische Fragen hast, einfach fragen. Ohne Heated Chamber reicht eine normale Wasserkühlung mit z.B. 120er Radiator vollkommen aus.
  3. Hi and this is my first post, so please be gentle! Ive been printing for about a week, printed a number of PLA object and when trying to build 2 vase's in vase mode, Cura strings the two together! Could someone advise me what I may be doing wrong? Many thanks,
  4. Today
  5. I would like an option in the Cura software to update the view of the model as the printer is actually printing.
  6. Let me first says I have zero experience with Cura pre 4.2 but In theory the scrip should work the same. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. IF AND ONLY IF that is true and there is no automatic update function, there should be a "scripts" folder where your instance of Cura is installed. For 4.3 on Windows 10 that folder location is "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.3\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts". In here you should see the script file "PauseAtHeight.py". If so, make a copy of the existing file for safe keeping. In Windows you can "right click, copy" then "right click, paste" the file and follow the above procedure to replace it. Good luck.
  7. Current state is that - more S5 printers suffer the same problem. - It's not just the STL, it's multiple STLs - It's not a certain version of Cura (had the same issue with cura 3.6, 4.2.1 and 4.3) - It's only on the .2 profile (and any change I did, didn't resolve or improve anything, except reducing speed to less than half). The only way I see it: the 6500 EUR Ultimaker S5 isn't able to print 70mm/s on a .2 layer height. ... It has been reported by at least 2 instances to Ultimaker - I hope they'll look into it.
  8. used the repair option in slic3r, now slices perfectly in cura 4.3. Strange thing is, using cura engine in repetier host it sliced ok without repairing.
  9. I bought it several months ago and it is well maintained. Used for very short time. The qualification of each products it prints are amazing and I am very satisfied with it. It comes everything with the original box. The printer is located at West Virginia, US. Asking for 2000 USD or best offer.You are welcome DM me with any questions and concerns. Thank you so much!
  10. New PS should arrive tomorrow. Will install it and after 1 or 2 days of printing i will give feedback if it did the trick!
  11. I used the Lulzbot Cura Edition. There isn't a 4.3. The current version is 3.6.21
  12. Hello, problem has been fixed in Cura version 4.3.0.
  13. Hi everyone, I bought 2.85mm PLA filament (Brazilian brand), and after printing for hours, everything is going well, but I noticed that during printing the nozzle was printing in the air, far from the piece and no filament extruding. Immediately I stopped printing, I tried to do the normal filament removal procedure, but the filament got stuck. I also tried the printer's Move function, but still the filament got stuck. So I opened Feeder and the filament was "choking" inside. I removed the filament and I did the complete feeder cleaning and also printer maintenance. As you can see in the picture, I cut this filament, and you can see that there is a problem with Feeder Tension. Currently, in Ultimaker 2+ Extended, Feeder tension is exactly in the middle and I had never changed. But for this filament I would need to change the feeder tension. In the same photo, keeping the same tension in the middle and leveling the table, I did a first layer calibration test and then I tried to print a small bust, and as you can see it's completely horrible. I would like to know from you what would be the ideal tension for this filament, the marker is in the middle of the feeder. So I have to put the mark up or down to fix this problem? Would it be clockwise to loosen the tension (raising the marker a little)? If so, how much would I need to loosen? Thank you for your help.
  14. The only difference I can find in the newest Cura fast (0.2) and normal (0.1) profiles is the layer height, wall overlap, and the speeds. All the accel, jerk, and other settings look identical to me.
  15. Failed to print as pretty as the Rifraf stuff... I stopped the print after 3 layers to save the PLA. 😕 Thoughts, Comments, Concerns... Declarations of Heresy... Thanks.
  16. Good Day! I am looking for wisdom and experience from folks when it comes to designs embedded within the base layer and first layers... I am very much so a novice and have printed mostly premade designs from Thingiverse and elsewhere, and have designed a few unique items myself. My question here today comes with trying to replicate design aspects from Srifraf on Thingiverse into my own designs. Example here. I'd like to duplicate the slight design from the base layer into my own work, but regardless of how I design it or try to slice it, Cura's preview tends to print the design on the bottom 3 layers instead of only the base layer and then a solid 2nd layer which is what happens with the designs by Rifraf... Working with the Ender 3, I've tried designing the token with a print height of .16 to accommodate the magic number (.04) and of the "infill" of the token set .20 above the print bed. Setting the base layer height at .20, and then the rest of the print at .16, the print preview still shows multiple layers before it starts laying over the design. And now, thank you Murphey, I just sliced it and the preview shows the 2nd layer beginning the complete infill 🙄 ... I'm about to go print the new slice and will report back on how it looks... I would still love to hear all y'all's thoughts and experience on this!!! Thank You! NO AP Token - 08 or 16 print height - 3 (1).stl 1-NO AP Token - 08 or 16 print height - 3 (1).gcode
  17. Awesome!! How do I add this code to my printer?
  18. It is easy to use the support blocker function. You select your model where you want to block the support. Click on the support blocker icon in the left menu or press E Then click somewhere on your model where you want to place the support blocker cube. The cube acts like a model, so you can move or scale it to fit your needs. And the area which is covered by the cube will not have any support after slicing.
  19. Yeah, that could be the power supply, too. Please give us some feedback if it fixed your problem.
  20. Someone uploaded the same problem described here power supply was defect/dead. I ordered a new PS now and hope it will solve this problem.
  21. I have had an Ultimaker 3 from when they where released great bit of kit, BUT the supporting instructions on how to use functions in the software I find very poor. by example You have a function 'support blocker' selectable from the main screen. So how do I find how to make use of it? Logic says type 'Support Blocker' in the HELP search window the answer comeback with "NO RESULTS FOUND" so I try the manual for Software No Results Found, well this is what lets a great product down. Ultimaker, if you want to see how it should be done take a look at ONSHAPE CAD and look at the tutorials on every function let alone when you select a function if you hover on it it will give the basic intro on how to use the function. You talk about widening audience and making the technology more accessible, you achieve this by brilliant supporting documentation and DIY online search tools and tutorials so someone needs to make the decision to make the time TO IMPROVE the poor support information , then and only then do you have an outstanding product. Iso I still do not know where to find or how to use the SUPPORT BLOCKER!!!!!!!!
  22. Sounds like a hardware failure or problem. But you will probably get more help in an appropriate Anycubic forum.
  23. Thanks for the info Irodriguez. Mein Dank auch an zungara. Wir haben hier schon verzweifelt. Dann warten wir mal ab. Ich werde berichten. Merci Lukas
  24. Das mit dem Kein-Material-am-Anfang hat sich bei mir durch Neuladen des Materials beheben lassen.
  25. I don't (I traded it for the S5). These are pictures of the icon that was printed the fastest as I could on my UM3: .2mm, but a modified profile.. so not completely comparable.
  26. Waldo do you still have an UM3, I would like to see how the same file is printed on that.
  27. Hi, I forgot to mention in the final Note, you also have to set, at the machine settings, the 'Z (Height)' value to 520 mm once you have a DX Plus.
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