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  2. Hi johnse, My test model details is various. This is Testman on Thingiverse. I created a model on 3D with different STL quality. No differences between them. Right surfaces are OK but curves show smalls over extrusions. It seems it occure on layer change. I use CURA 4.3.0 I tried : - enable retraction on layer change - heater change 190 to 210┬░C - speed change - model change I don't know what to do anything ­čś× Thank in advance for your help.
  3. Good to hear it improved, do you have a Z offset for your PETG? Ridgid INK. Matterhackers and some other people highly recommend it, some even require it to print PETG. I haven't done it with my PETG prints but perhaps it would help for you, just offset it by 0.02 MM which will keep the nozzle a little more clear of any already laid down plastic, which in turn should help reduce the blobs.
  4. Interesting, perhaps I should try that. It works great for me to start with a cold bed and glue and once it gets the first layer down, crank the heat up. But I like the idea of a no hassle type printing. Now it seems I got this problem somewhat cracked (pun intended) due to the diameter of the cylinders snapping on, the inside would have a hollow spot and due to how small or slim that hollow spot was, it wouldn't infill it very well SO I increased the wall count from 4 to 6 which then maxes out the walls in that cylinder so it's "solid" which increased the strength of that piece by a chunk, to the point where I need channel locks to snap it onto a rail now. For some reason, when I print the complete part, one side snaps, I've printed 2 different ones now and both had 1 side which snapped, so I tried increasing the I.D of the cylinders to give it a little more room, only by 0.2 MM so hopefully that does something. But it seems like it's getting there, got a whole box filling up of failed prints, lol. One thing I would like to solve is how do I get the same look and feel of the top when it's ironed (Enabled iron in Cura) on the bottom where the brim is? Is there a way to do that? I tried increasing bottom layers and changing the pattern but it doesen't do much, it's still open which I don't like. Thank you for helping me here Geert, I appreciate it.
  5. Apologies, here are the files in question. output-12.gcode output-12.stl
  6. Morning gents and ladies. Having a bit of an issue with Cura and slicing a cursive lower case 'j' from an .stl file. A bit new at using a 3D printer, but tried enough to get the gist of what I'm doing. I've tried different cursive fonts of the letter 'j' as well (all with different .stl files, just in case the file had an issue), but the result is always the same. Am I missing a setting somewhere that could cause this? The print size is on the order of about 9 cm, and thus far I've had no problems with any of the other letters with loops. Thanks for the help!
  7. Today
  8. Wow .. for me this is completely unworkable .. any print with this kind of ribbling is plain ugly :-/. Especially when you see what my UM3 was capable of (which was perfect).
  9. After a long print, the printer keep being unreachable and wont upload new document for printing. Is there a solution for this?
  10. I do see same result wit my UM S5. Unfortunately for me any attemp to fix this has not worked so far. Good luck !
  11. After adding some materials via the API you can now just load them as different types of material for now. See the attached lock out due to not having break positions etc and then the result of using a more up to date xml.fdm_material with those fields. Good news is that custom writes to the tags works and selects colour GUIDs as expected. Ultimaker you should document the schema for the xml, there is a double entry for the U3 in most profiles.
  12. With the new firmware I found that even if you select to skip cooldown, you can not "confirm removal" of the print and move on with life untill the bed has cooled down to 59 deg. This is a pain if you are printing with CPE and the bed temp is 110deg and the you about the print on the first layer and want to restart the print right away. With previous firmware versions it was faster to powerdown and power up the printer to retain bed heat, but with the new firmware this too is not possible. When the printer restarts, it still wants to cooldown.
  13. Hi Echt wahnsinnig, was du mit deinem UMO+ schon alles angestellt hast! Mit den ganzen hochwertigen Markenteilen und dem Heated Chamber muss der sicher perfekt drucken. Ich bin auch am ├ťberlegen, ob ich mir das E3D Chimera+ kaufe. Das Problem ist hald wirklich, dass das nur f├╝r 1.75mm Filament ist und ich habe nicht vor, das umzubauen. Du hast es ja auf 3mm umgebaut. Wie hast du das genau gemacht? Vielleicht kannst du es nochmal ein bisschen genauer beschreiben ­čÖé So Custom-Made Titan Heatbreaks und die angeschwei├čten Bowden-Kupplungen schrecken mich ein wenig ab. Deine ganze Wasserk├╝hlung mit den Radiatoren und sogar Peltier-K├╝hlung ist auch einfach nur krass! Ohne Heated Chamber wird aber eine normale Wasserk├╝hlung mit 1 Radiator auch reichen oder? LG Jakob
  14. So I have been doing test all day and I got rid of most of it by: -Reducing the flow from 100- 92.5. -Max retractions from 25-100 -avoid parts when printing OFF I still have a tiny 'antenna' left and a couple of fine hairs but no more blobs.
  15. The PET I have does similar things: - While printing, it accumulates on the nozzle. This goo then gets brown, and sags onto the model, and is deposited as big brown blobs. The brown color is clearly visible on white, but it may not be visible on black. These blobs also tend to cause fine hairs in the print, both when the blob sags from the nozzle, and when the nozzle passes through previously deposited blobs. - When bridging, it does not pull a nice bridge. But the strand rather tends to snap like chewing gum and fold back onto itself, causing a blob under the nozzle. This is then deposited onto the next wall upon arriving there. - When traveling through air, the nozzle leaks a little bit (overpressure in the nozzle that is releasing), also causing a little blob or "insect antenna" onto the next wall. It looks quite similar to what you have. Watch carefully while printing, and you can see it happen. Printing slow and cool reduces these effects in my models, but I can't totally eliminate them.
  16. So you have two objects that you set to different extruders, set the infill extruder to not overridden and the wall extruder to a specific value? That is a good work-around for the missing infill extruder per object setting.
  17. Yes indeed. My models typically take 2...3 hours to print; I rarely have longer printing times. So I don't know how it would hold up for long prints that take a day.
  18. Hi, ich w├╝rde sagen dass die offiziellen Reseller daf├╝r zust├Ąndig sind. So weit ich weiss ist iGo3D der gr├Â├čste davon. Am besten diese direkt kontaktieren. https://ultimaker.com/resellers/de Gr├╝├če, Stefan
  19. Hi, kommt das Rattern w├Ąhrend Infill gedruckt wird oder nur wenn die D├╝se sich dar├╝ber bewegt? Ich habe das (zweite) Problem auch schon beobachtet und konnte nicht herausfinden woran das lag. Ich kenne noch die Option "z-hop during travel" oder so ├Ąhnlich, aber mir gef├Ąllt es nicht wenn das Druckbett sich st├Ąndig neu positionieren muss. N├Ąchste Frage - kommt es auch bei anderen F├╝llmustern vor?
  20. Nicolinux

    RAFT Settings

    Hi, welchen Drucker verwendest du und mit welchem Material m├Âchtest du drucken?
  21. I just found the easy solution staring me in the face in cura !!! Just switch Infill extruder to "Not overridden".
  22. I managed to slice each part independently and generate two gcodes. Then i combined the gcodes in notepad++ and it is now working. I hope the manual solution could become a feature in cura at some point.
  23. Hi, I have a brand new S5 (coming from an UM3), and was excited to start printing with it. but what a disappointment for a print I have done like 100ds of times on my UM3: Ghosting/Rippling like crazy. What I did to try to resolve the issue: - completely removed all cura profiles, and started printing with UM filament with default settings - put my UM on the floor for stability - oiled all axes - changed temperatures for both filemant and build plate The left testprint was printed at 35mm/s: As said, I have been printing with an UM3 for quite a while, and have never had such a disgusting result at 70mm/s.. . I know prints are significantly better at lower speeds, but still at 35mm/s you see some ghosting ... Any help would be greatly appreciated.. . I have the impression I have a wobly build plate, but I have nothing to compare against... could be normal.
  24. It was enabled, now I disabled it and attached the USB device causing my Problem. What should I say, everything is fine now. Thanks for this hint.
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