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  2. No problem 🙂 Grad to hear that it works!
  3. Hey and greetings again... do you have any news regarding the fixing of the automatic levelling problem? I still donÂŽt know what exactly is or could be wrong with the UM3... Can I take other steps to eliminate the printbed from stopping half way to the cores and then donÂŽt even touching them? It is pretty sad that I can not use the printer anymore now for almost 3 weeks and there is no clue what I could do to search or narrow in the problem.. See you and have a nice easter holiday Greetings Daniel
  4. Hi UM experts, I have a UM5 and am trying to get the best quality prints for architectural models. The larger scale models, 1/16" = 1'-0" print fine, but the smaller scale, ~1" = 50' does not. A photo is attached. Left print is at .1mm height and the right is at .2mm using pla. Are there particular setting I can adjust to stop the blobs on the piers between windows? Is the detail level/size of the piers to small and thin to get a good print? Thanks, John
  5. Today
  6. Me for example, I upgraded my UM3 and my S5 and have nearly no issues except the x/y calibration which is only needed for dual print and I don't print often dual. Just one minor issue on the UM3, that I have now (after the updated) a buzzy sound from the display. It is annoying, but I found a workaround to stop that sound. I just have to go to a submenu and return to the main, then the sound stops. Sometimes I have to jump more than one time to another view, but it works always.
  7. Super Danke fĂŒr die Info und den Link. Gruß Mike
  8. aag

    CPE+/PVA -> awful warp

    Also, I am not sure if it has anything to do with the water. I submerged it immediately together with the glass plate. Maybe it is just the temperature shock.
  9. CPE is a little more heat-resistant than PLA (up to 70°C), CPE+ is said up to 100°C (I've not used CPE+ so far, only CPE), but with water temparature up to "hand warm" (starting temp, no heated bath) i never had problems with after-print warping.
  10. aag

    CPE+/PVA -> awful warp

    thanks - but wasn't CPE supposed to be more thermoresistant than PLA?
  11. Nein, oberhalb der Mitte ist weniger Federspannung, je tiefer die Anzeige, desto grĂ¶ĂŸer ist die Federspannung (siehe z.B. hier: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52504-clean-the-feeders) GrĂŒĂŸe
  12. Hi, I've read somewhere at the Ultimaker-Homepage, that the water used to dissolve PVA should only be up to 30°C, but they recommend use of cold water. Greetings
  13. Something horrible happened. I made a large Ultimaker CPE+ print, and it came out of the printer beautifully (build plate: 110°C, UMS5 with plexiglass cover to retain heat). Then I put the model into warm water (45°C, thermostat + pump) to dissolve the PVA. And now the model warped horribly! It seems that the surface that was against the build plate has contracted and is now all bent. However, the upper surface (opposite to the build plate) is still in shape. What could have happened? How can I prevent that? Any help would be very gratefully accepted!
  14. If this hasnt be sold please contact me at stephenwillms1@gmail.com
  15. How many users have provided feedback on this upgrade? How many % is needed before you consider it relevant? I regret that you consider opinion from minority not relevant.
  16. Apparently the new firmware has only affected 1% of the UM users. Could we hear from the mute 99% that were not affected?
  17. Danke, ich beobachte die Sache und melde mich gegebenenfalls. PS. Die Feederspannung war im oberen viertel. Oberhalb der Mitte ist doch strammer oder? Gruß
  18. Hello, Hope this is this correct place to post, So my UM2+ has been sitting for a month and when I went to level the bed the rear thumb screw is soooo tight I can only move it about 2mm each way so i can not get the bed level and I don't want to break something whats the best why of freeing up the thumb screw so it will move like it use to?
  19. I'm printing everyday with UM3 and since the upgrade to firmware 5.2 the active level doesn't work anymore. In fact I even got scratch on the glass plate because the nozzle was touching the glass plate (through an UM adhesive tape !!!) The factory reset doesn't help. Hopefully I can still use manual level. As described in this forum I can't downgrade the firmware 5.2 😞
  20. Anyone selling or know of a S5 for sale in the UK ? Thanks
  21. Je viens de remettre mon UM3 en fonction, j'en ai profité de mettre le firmware à jour et cura à la version 4.0 Au moment de l'impression, elle a fait une calibration du niveau.. tout automatique. Est-il possible de désactiver cette fonction étant donné que j'utilise plus le plateau en verre mais un support en métal de Gegotek et que cette fonction de calibration (lancé par le menu à l'époque) ne se terminait pas bien
  22. I've never had anything other than 1.75 filament near this printer; nevertheless, it's something that crossed my mind so I checked the label as well as measuring the filament itself just to be sure.
  23. No i updated after actrually as i assumed it could be that.
  24. Hello @Mozella, if you use 2.85mm filament and, somehow, the old Cura thought it should be using 1.7mm filament, that would probably account for it. Just guessing, really.
  25. On the Printers pane of the preferences, go to Machine Settings and change the bed shape back to rectangular (you seem to have somehow set it to elliptical)
  26. The other thing you can do to help is to lower your flow rate for the first level by 20-30%
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