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  2. Yeah, I would agree, but I think most would agree. Although my prints are not usually mechanical in nature, I do sometimes make small things. A while back I printed up a series of parts for a much larger scene. This is a picture of a bunch of 'lab equipment' pieces. They may look really so-so in the picture, but that is because it is so close on such small objects. The comparison object is a U.S. nickel. Even at 0.1 layer heights, some of the objects are only 50 layers in height.
  3. Richtig. Eigentlich ziehe ich das Material nach dem Druck, wenn er auf ca. 80-85 Grad abgekühlt ist, wieder zurück. Somit brauch ich erst beim nächsten Druckstart nur in die heiße Düse wieder vorschieben... Ja, mach ich über Maintaince. Erst Druckbett auf Temperatur stellen (braucht eh am längsten) und während er dann dieses heizt, stell ich den/die Core auf Zieltemperatur(n) und lass diese ebenfalls heizen. Hab ich mir mal beim RF1000 so angewöhnt, weil die Hotends zum Nachlängen teilweise neigen. Ob das bei der Konstruktion des UM-Core auch so stark ausgeprägt ist, habe ich noch nicht getestet, aber eine gewisse Nachlängung wird immer im System sein - heißes Material dehnt sich nunmal etwas... Gruß, Digibike
  4. Today
  5. OUPS65

    line width

    Many tks for your answser with your helpfull feedback. Congratulations for yours prints..... We also have to face with the macro pictures distorsions. We are printing with an 0.15mm nozzel with a layer heigth of 0.08mm. This work well too : To fix the ideas for the duckboard : the rectangular holes are 0.36mm x 0.36mm and the solid part between two holes to a width of 0.274mm. His thickness is 0.374mm. The filament used is a PLA PREMIUM from 3DONLINE. our discussion between us was about the CURA process : Any idea how does CURA react on the flow if we reduce the line width by 10% as per their recommandations ? some said that the flow is automatically reduced by 10%, others said that Cura do not impact on the flow when changing this line width setting ? Many tks Philippe
  6. Thanks rcfocus, you are right. I however tried to print it with a Formlabs 3 resin printer, and it came out flawlessly even at its lowest resolution (100 micron)! When it comes to small mechanical parts, I feat that SLA beats FDM hands-down (and it's competitive even on price, both equipment and consumables...).
  7. Verstehe, aber dazu muss die Düse aufheizen, dann kann man das Filament rausziehen. Dabei zieht es aber meist lange Fäden, sollte die nicht entfernt werden? Gut bei 1cm verm. egal. Machst du das Aufheizen manuell, d.h. über das Maintanance Menü?, dort kann ich aber nur Bett und Hotend getrennt aufheizen 🤔
  8. Mach ich bei meinem UM3 so, aber Laden benutze ich nur bei neuer Rolle zum "Anlernen". Du hast hinten einen Kleinen Hebel - den kannst du drücken und somit die Anpreßrolle entlasten. Damit kannst du das Filament "frei" bewegen. Da genügt 1 cm zurück ziehen, damit ist es aus der Düse. Sobald er wieder drucken soll, wieder Hebel drücken und Filament in die Düse schieben und er ist wieder druckbereit. Bei PLA oder PVA empfiehlt es sich eh, es nicht allzu lange zu belassen (PVA sowieso nicht, aber PLA neigt zu "Entlastungsbrüchen"...). Wollte nur darauf hinweisen... Gruß, Digibike
  9. Ich habe mir mal den 3DJake EasyAdheasy bestellt, denke aber dass ich die Uhu Geschichte hinbekomme. Kein Filament und dann nachschieben, wäre beim Ulti nur über Filamentwechsel zu machen, das möchte ich nicht jedes mal tun müssen. Außerdem heize ich nur das Bett, beim Start vom Druck heizt er die Düse, lässt etwas rauslaufen (Raupe) und ich stelle immer einen Skirt mit 500mm ein, damit sollte auch das Hotend genug durchgeheizt sein. Denke aber dass ich diese Längungsproblem auch schon beobachtet habe, ein Druck die 1. Schicht war wie Papier und hat nicht gehaftet, was das damit gemeint? Ich werde jetzt, finde der Zeitpunkt ist gekommen, mal Werte festlegen und daran optimieren. - Druckhaftung mit verstrichenem Uhu-Stick- Standard: 50mm/s, 1000mm/s2, 1. Schicht und Wände 30mm/s- Skirt 3 Linien, mind.500mm- gemessenen DM des Filaments einstellen- mittels Testdrucke die Verarbeitungstemp. des Filaments rausfinden- 0.4mm Linienbreite, 0,15mm 1. Schicht, 0,2mm Schichtdicke; mittels Testdrucke das optimale fürs Filament rausfinden Hoffe damit mal eine Schritt voran zu kommen und weiter geht's.
  10. I'm new to 3D printing, in fact, I don't have my printer yet. I was wondering the best programs to create projects in so they can be printed with my 3D printer. I have a Creatlity CR-10s Pro on the way. The programs I have that I think I can make projects with are Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Illustrator and I also have TurboCad Pro. I'm not sure if these programs can make the files I need for 3D printing or not, and if they do, do they need to be run through another program. Any help would be appreciated. I just need any pointers in how to create the file and then how to get it into the printer to work. Thanks, Mark
  11. Gday b-morgan I put your .py file into cura and did a restart.. It would show the file in the post process list. What am i doing wrong? I did rename it with only the .py extension. And left full name of file.. i couldnt see it. Help!
  12. The wall is 0.3mm, not 0.6mm: (4.0 - 3.4)/2 = 0.3mm That's too thin even for injection mold. You might have to change your design.
  13. Yesterday
  14. Tough pla, a wonderfull and easy to use filament, which has the ease of printing like normal pla, and the mechaical properties like abs. only downside is lower temperature resistant. I use tough pla for transport chains, coiling equipment, and a lot more... it works so good i don't even use normal pla anymore.
  15. Hello, I'm using Cura to render my stl files to gcode. After the print has been finished, I saw that I forgot to enable ironing. (The print is still in place and the bed is still heated.) Is it possible to run ONLY the ironing layer? If yes: Can somebody help me with modifying my gcode file? zigzag.gcodenozzle_holder.gcode(files added as attachment)
  16. I'm printing colorfabb xt cf20 carbon. I appeared in beta 4.1 at the end of the whole in the profile setting options. Where can I see the new form of bondtech for ultimaker 3 without touching Linux? thank you
  17. I don't see this feature in Cura 4.0. The most it can do is add some gcode but you can't update steps/mm in UM3 with just a gcode (you can on UM2). You should know however that bondtech has a new installation procedure that runs a program that updates the steps/mm for you. This is for people not comfortable with linux (UM3 runs linux). I found that the feeders are so powerful on the UM3 that there is no need for the bondtech. Unless you are printing CF. The UM3 gears aren't hardened enough for carbon fill filament but the bondtech gears are.
  18. >BTW, I created git repos in both of those directories Brilliant! I never create or store profiles. Instead I *always* save as a project ("file save"). That saves as a .3mf file. Then later when I print something new I think "let's see - this is similar to that part I printed yesterday" and I load the 3mf file for that part and then delete the old and drag in the new part.
  19. hello partners, with the latest beta, find in options of advanced profile settings of the printer as to be able to adjust the steps of the extruder, from the own cure the steps could be adjusted to be able to install a kit extruder bondtech. thank you
  20. What would be the equivalent directories under windows? I notice there are a few places, AppData/Local and AppData/Roaming. Roaming seems to be the bulk of it, but I can not seem to get my print settings to carry over. I tried placing the the AppData/Local into the .config/cura with no luck. I also seem to have a cura folder under .cache, so I have three, one is .cache, .config, and .share.
  21. Hello @bondus, try turning off the Use Towers setting, I think that creates those oddities.
  22. Hello @changedsoul, on the Linux side, Cura stores state in ~/.local/share/cura/VERSION and ~/.config/cura/VERSION. BTW, I created git repos in both of those directories which I occasionally use to snapshot my profiles, etc. Then if Cura goes berserk and trashes everything I can recover my previous state easily.
  23. Bonjour, Je me sert actuellement de cura 4.0 pour ma cr-10s qui marchait bien. Mais depuis 1 semaine quand je veux lancer Cura, il ne se passe rien et quand je vais voir dans mon gestionnaire des tâches, je remarque que le programme est en arrière-plan mais il ne se passe rien. J'ai désinstaller cura, le réinstaller, mais il ne passe toujours rien. Quand je me suis renseigné sur des forum, ça dit de supprimer un fichier en .cfg, pendant un moment c'est bon il marchait mais maintenant plus rien. Ce qui fait que j'utilise actuellement le logiciel en 15.0.4 mais j'aimerais retourner sur la version plus récente. J'éspère que vous pourrez m'aider et bonne soirée (ou bonne journée).
  24. Has anyone tried this? I dual boot between windows and linux. I hate having to boot into windows to make a print when I am currently working in linux. I copied my cura folder AppData in windows into the .local/share/cura just to see if it would pick up the settings. It seems some settings came over while others did not. Settings like which print settings I have hidden or shown did not carry over. It seems my custom print profiles got picked up. Im wondering what locations cura uses when loading so i can link them in linux to the windows locations so "I hope" I can just boot back and forth and have all my settings shared between boots. It seems cura uses more than just the location in Appdata. Has anyone tried this with success without corrupting something?
  25. So that the priming tower and model are at the same height.
  26. I’ll just quote myself, from a couple of replies above this: Also note:
  27. Liked for the thread title
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