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  2. Me for example, I upgraded my UM3 and my S5 and have nearly no issues except the x/y calibration which is only needed for dual print and I don't print often dual. Just one minor issue on the UM3, that I have now (after the updated) a buzzy sound from the display. It is annoying, but I found a workaround to stop that sound. I just have to go to a submenu and return to the main, then the sound stops. Sometimes I have to jump more than one time to another view, but it works always.
  3. Today
  4. Super Danke für die Info und den Link. Gruß Mike
  5. aag

    CPE+/PVA -> awful warp

    Also, I am not sure if it has anything to do with the water. I submerged it immediately together with the glass plate. Maybe it is just the temperature shock.
  6. CPE is a little more heat-resistant than PLA (up to 70°C), CPE+ is said up to 100°C (I've not used CPE+ so far, only CPE), but with water temparature up to "hand warm" (starting temp, no heated bath) i never had problems with after-print warping.
  7. aag

    CPE+/PVA -> awful warp

    thanks - but wasn't CPE supposed to be more thermoresistant than PLA?
  8. Nein, oberhalb der Mitte ist weniger Federspannung, je tiefer die Anzeige, desto größer ist die Federspannung (siehe z.B. hier: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52504-clean-the-feeders) Grüße
  9. Hi, I've read somewhere at the Ultimaker-Homepage, that the water used to dissolve PVA should only be up to 30°C, but they recommend use of cold water. Greetings
  10. Something horrible happened. I made a large Ultimaker CPE+ print, and it came out of the printer beautifully (build plate: 110°C, UMS5 with plexiglass cover to retain heat). Then I put the model into warm water (45°C, thermostat + pump) to dissolve the PVA. And now the model warped horribly! It seems that the surface that was against the build plate has contracted and is now all bent. However, the upper surface (opposite to the build plate) is still in shape. What could have happened? How can I prevent that? Any help would be very gratefully accepted!
  11. If this hasnt be sold please contact me at stephenwillms1@gmail.com
  12. How many users have provided feedback on this upgrade? How many % is needed before you consider it relevant? I regret that you consider opinion from minority not relevant.
  13. Apparently the new firmware has only affected 1% of the UM users. Could we hear from the mute 99% that were not affected?
  14. Danke, ich beobachte die Sache und melde mich gegebenenfalls. PS. Die Feederspannung war im oberen viertel. Oberhalb der Mitte ist doch strammer oder? Gruß
  15. Hello, Hope this is this correct place to post, So my UM2+ has been sitting for a month and when I went to level the bed the rear thumb screw is soooo tight I can only move it about 2mm each way so i can not get the bed level and I don't want to break something whats the best why of freeing up the thumb screw so it will move like it use to?
  16. I'm printing everyday with UM3 and since the upgrade to firmware 5.2 the active level doesn't work anymore. In fact I even got scratch on the glass plate because the nozzle was touching the glass plate (through an UM adhesive tape !!!) The factory reset doesn't help. Hopefully I can still use manual level. As described in this forum I can't downgrade the firmware 5.2 😞
  17. Anyone selling or know of a S5 for sale in the UK ? Thanks
  18. Je viens de remettre mon UM3 en fonction, j'en ai profité de mettre le firmware à jour et cura à la version 4.0 Au moment de l'impression, elle a fait une calibration du niveau.. tout automatique. Est-il possible de désactiver cette fonction étant donné que j'utilise plus le plateau en verre mais un support en métal de Gegotek et que cette fonction de calibration (lancé par le menu à l'époque) ne se terminait pas bien
  19. I've never had anything other than 1.75 filament near this printer; nevertheless, it's something that crossed my mind so I checked the label as well as measuring the filament itself just to be sure.
  20. No i updated after actrually as i assumed it could be that.
  21. Hello @Mozella, if you use 2.85mm filament and, somehow, the old Cura thought it should be using 1.7mm filament, that would probably account for it. Just guessing, really.
  22. On the Printers pane of the preferences, go to Machine Settings and change the bed shape back to rectangular (you seem to have somehow set it to elliptical)
  23. The other thing you can do to help is to lower your flow rate for the first level by 20-30%
  24. I upgraded to 4.0 from 2.7 and now my prints start to far from the build plate. I go back to 2.7 and everything prints fine. Below is my first few lines of gcode: can someone tell me what I need to change to correct the issue. Thanks Works ;FLAVOR:Marlin ;TIME:560 ;Filament used: 0.414691m ;Layer height: 0.15 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 2.7.0 M190 S60 M104 S205 M109 S205 G28 ;Home G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm ;Prime the extruder G92 E0 G1 F200 E3 G92 E0 ;LAYER_COUNT:99 ;LAYER:0 M107 M205 X30 Y30 G0 F3600 X140.248 Y103.213 Z0.3 M205 X20 Y20 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1800 X140.916 Y102.339 E0.05488 G1 X141.342 Y101.859 E0.0869 G1 X142.069 Y101.151 E0.13753 G1 X142.547 Y100.748 E0.16872 G1 X143.514 Y100.043 E0.22842 Doesn't work ;FLAVOR:Marlin ;TIME:515 ;Filament used: 0.135118m ;Layer height: 0.15 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.0.0 M140 S60 M105 M190 S60 M104 S205 M105 M109 S205 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode G28 ;Home G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm ;Prime the extruder G92 E0 G1 F200 E3 G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:100 ;LAYER:0 M107 M205 X30 Y30 G0 F3600 X140.52 Y102.838 Z0.3 M205 X20 Y20 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1500 E0 G1 F1800 X141.497 Y101.702 E0.02818 G1 X141.946 Y101.251 E0.04016
  25. Well I'm definitely interested. Email me at pringlekeara@gmail.com.
  26. Bought an UM3 couple months ago, and the transition from higher-end hobby printers to a printer I trust ... just amazing. Earlier this week a print with colofabb nGen went wrong long enough to goop up both print heads with nGen and require me to remove them and clean them off. When I put them back, the bed was out of level and autolevel wasn't helping, so I did the manual level and tried to do the XY calibration but either the print head would be pressed so tightly against the bed that nothing came out or it just wouldn't stick. Using the original UM green, did a cura connect reset, wiped my cura profiles, no help. So I turned all of the levelling knobs a 1/4-1/8th counter-clockwise and now I get prints but the first layer is bumpy and I get elephant's foot and curling, but mostly, part way thru the first player, the print head crosses and catches on something and the print starts to come undone (yes, I have combing and avoidance enabled, I reset to defaults) I'm wondering if the honeymoon period is over now, and if from here on it will only ever print as well as lower-end/hobby printers I'd had before, or if there is a guide to restoring that factory fresh reliability?
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