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  2. I have also tried to set up the CR-X as custom and still have the same problem so that eliminates the printer definition.
  3. Now that option is not even available for the CR-X. I had to install the S5 just to find it thinking it may have something to do with my problem.
  4. Bon le sèche cheveux c'est pas la peine trop long ça suinte non stop, par contre au four à 50°C + chaleur tournante ça l'a fait en 1h30 pour une pièce de 17 x 9 cm. C'est du PLA donc pas toxique, mais pour l'ABS ou autre je n'aurais pas osé 🙂 Aîe ! ma pièce est déformée maintenant grrrrrr !
  5. Thoughts/experience of the A4988 solder hack: I recently performed the A4988 hack of shorting out a single resistor on each A4988 chip. I had one cold solder joint on the 2nd extruder that had to be fixed, but aside from that, my zebra stripes have diminished about 90% of what they were. Am very happy with the hack. However, and I don't know if these things were happening before the hack or not, but I noticed my X stepper is about 2 to 3 times louder than the Y stepper. If it were the Y, I'd suspect it was active leveling, but it's the X where active leveling shouldn't be moving the Z at all. ie.when creating a cube and it's printing the walls, both steppers move the same speed and have the same pitch but X is noticeably louder and can be felt by touching the outside of the U3 or the gantry. My wall finishes when printing a cube are different. Front/Back flat surfaces are glossy smooth with some vertical lines (can see them, not feel them) and the Left/Right sides have a sort of pleasant noise pattern, like a tv station tuned to a non-existant channel, looking like sandpaper but still smooth to the touch (love the pattern as it masks any lines and just looks good). Again, can see that, not feel it. When I print the cube at 45 degrees, all sides have a similar noisy pattern that I like a lot. If you don't want to do the solder hack, the TLSmoother boards seems to result in a similar outcome without having to take an iron to the motherboard. You connect them between the motherboard and the steppers and can remove them at any time. For now, you can try rotating your model on the print bed to see if the lines go away. I forget the rotation %. It's mentioned a few times in the main zebra line thread. Between 15% & 45%, I believe. If you do attempt the solder hack, I would suggest desoldering the SMD resistors & cleaning the two pads of the old solder. This will make it much easier to solder a small wire across the two pads. FYI: If the resistor is gone and the two pads are not shorted, the stepper driver still works but it doesn't send enough voltage to actually turn the stepper motors. You can barely hear the stepper receiving the steps, but it won't turn.
  6. Today
  7. Yep the rare times (2 times) i have come across this problem i have cleaned the printhead out, feeders and also taken the bowden tubes out from printhead and made sure to push them back in tight again also. Keeping a printer clean makes for a happy printer, defo the front fan that sucks in a lot of fine hair like plastic that also then gets all over the print cores. This is why the printer maintenance tasks have you clean the printer every month and the print cores every 3 months. Keeping on top of them tasks @nano-l is something to try and make a habit of checking and doing if you do not do so already.
  8. The cones can not solidify because the hot nozzle (200°C) is continuously on top of it, and it keeps radiating heat, so the model can't get below 50°C. The "dummy cooling tower" allows the nozzle to be busy for some time, far away from the object, so then it has time to cool down. This greatly reduces this overheating deformation, but it does not totally eliminate it. In very small objects you might still run into it. This is another picture showing the effect: they are 20mm high. The ones printed standing (left, printed in different temperatures and speeds) are deformed due to insufficient cooling. The ones printed laying on their back (right) with several together, are okay. Try various approaches, and various temps and speeds, with and without "dummy cooling tower", so you see the difference.
  9. I am having trouble getting my Ender 3 to print what I have saved from Cura 3.6. I have tried Cura 4.0 and had the same issues. The preloaded test file on my SD card that came with the Ender 3 has no problems printing. I have tried slicing and saving gcode to the SD card from Thingiverse, personal .stls and help files but none will read on the Ender 3. In the file screen on the Ender 3 it will show an odd symbol at the end of the filename. If I pick one of those files, it will read it and "act" like it is printing but the bed and nozzle don't even heat up and nothing moves. Then after awhile it thinks it is "done." Please help. Thank you, Cam
  10. If the nozzle remains in an area too long, it will retain heat on the printed parts, thus issues with the melting shown above. Those little tiny things I printed were several in the print environment while printing. That is how I got the really, super tiny coiled ' tube on on of the lab beakers. They may look rough, but I am so zoomed into the part that it shows all the flaws. But it looks much better in real life. edit: Oh yeah, and when I am printing things like that, I am telling the line width to be 0.28 or 0.26 with the 0.4 nozzle.
  11. And on top of this: Make sure your feeder itself is not filled with filament 'shavings' as this can lead to issues with your filaments and readings.
  12. Thanks but I do not fully understand. Did the bevels collapse because the thin parts melted? Also, what is the principle by which the neighboring tower would prevent this from happening?
  13. Thanks now I got it and can use extensions thanks a ton man
  14. Sometimes taking the print core out and cleaning the inside of the print head out and putting the print core back in will fix the false empty material warnings. Had to do this myself the other week.
  15. oui mais vu qu'il faut tremper dans assez d'eau pour diluer ça ne change pas grand chose peu de PVA ? tremper juste la zone de PVA doit pas être très efficace... j'essayerais ainsi que le four et vous dis. Du coup comme toi je me dis que l'UM3 est bien en bicolor ou pour avoir 2 fils différents prêts mais sinon... je suis interrogatif finalement?
  16. Nallath, Yes and I discovered after my post there was a link via the help menu where I found the previous advices !!!! Maybe it will be interesting to open a section, only to give the same link, just to avoid the unnecessary posts like mine !!
  17. Tough pla, in fact is more flexibele, and can withstand more force before it breaks (because it flexes more like ABS) An i have several mechanical parts for more than a year in production, and they do not degrade (at least not noticable)
  18. I think I tried those steps before, and it lasted for 30 minutes or so before I got bored and tried to print something. Just to have it fail a few layers in. Maybe it was a combination of factors including me trying to print 1.75 without mods. I went ahead and ordered the PSU and it should be arriving either today or tomorrow, so I guess we'll see.
  19. Every item I print turns out this way (see photos). I have tried adjusting temps (doing that right now) and cleaning the tip, but maybe I'm still missing something? All of my prints turn out very brittle and crackly. Just very poor quality. I have the PLA in a dehydrator keeping it warm and dry. Any thoughts or help? I am new to the 3D printing community so any explanation or advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you so much!
  20. Oh that's an interesting work-around. Thanks. Still think it should say on this screen... and the app should alert you.
  21. When it gives that message, notice the position of the nozzle lever switch. If it points forward, it is happening on Extruder 1. If it points backwards, away from the front of the machine, it is extruder 2.
  22. If it works. Kinda killed one of my prints because it failed to do so.
  23. This is often done using a plugin in OctoPrint named OctoLapse.
  24. Danke für die Antwort. Gedruckt habe ich mit PLA, weiß. Ei PETG habe ich das auch, da weiss ich aber ziemlich sicher, dass es am Material liegt. Ich vermute Mal, dass die Buildplate uneben ist, wenn auch nur minimal denn egal wie ich level, ganz gerade wird nie jede Stelle des Bettes. Habe mir soeben eine neue Platte bestellt und werde dann meine Ergebnisse teilen. Bekommt man diese Spuren bei PETG aufgrund des Klebens des Materials irgendwie weg?
  25. Oh yeah I did that, that was easy to find right on the screen, but then the PVA snapped when the print was about 80% done so the last 20% had no supports. I'd prefer to have the run out sensor to detect run outs... but not trigger six or seven times when nothing is wrong. I still don't know if it was the PLA or PVA extruder it thought was having issues either.
  26. I’m my personal experience the bootup of um2 boards usually are due a bad heater. It’s easy to debug, heat bed for X minutes (same as the time needed to reboot while printing). Then turn off. Then heat hotend for the same time (or more ofc). Then finally if doesn’t fail heat both hotend and bed for X minutes, if only then fails it might be the psu, otherwise is a heater block
  27. You can certainly disable the flow sensor if you want @BRLewitt. It's in the menu system somewhere. On the other hand it can be a lifesaver. It matters how you feed the filament into the feeder - make sure you use the correct filament guide.
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