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  2. Note that when printing in one-at-a-time mode, the "Printhead Settings" in the machine settings section must be correct. Those settings are used to keep the objects separated, and that there is clearance between printed parts and machine hardware. If you have custom hotend mount, or cooling ducts, etc. you will have to measure all of that out and enter the correct values.
  3. I seem to remember an issue with custom material profiles. Switch to one of the canned material profiles and see if you profiles are visible again.
  4. Well I guess I'll answer my own question. After continued playing around and no better results, I tried subtracting .01 mm from the thickness of the base. There is still the same amount of layers but the infill doesn't cross the hole anymore with the same settings. It must have something to do with a fraction of a layer height making cura do something wrong during slicing. Here are the two models with the second one with .01mm removed. Same number of total layers.
  5. Hi, I made this model with holes in the base and when cura slices it the small holes are fine but in the larger one the infill extends thru the last layer before the top layers. I have searched but have not found anything on this yet. These are the layers up until the last layer and everything is ok. This is the next layer and the infill goes right thru the walls. After that the top layers start. It has done this a couple other times and I cannot figure out what is causing it. Can anyone help me?
  6. Yesterday
  7. Having upgraded to Cura 4.7 and Digital Factory, I find that I have lost much of the Cura Connect functionality. I have a group of 4 UM-3s, which I used last Spring as a group for remote printing of student work. Now that I'm rolling into fall quarter, I can no longer remotely: -access camera -abort prints -delete prints from queue Additionally, I can no longer access the printer management page/analytics via the local ip address. Is there any way to restore this functionality to UM3 without rolling back to previous version and using C
  8. Also note that you can rotate your part and the infill won't rotate. So if you rotate your part 45 degrees then it will go one way along the part and the other way perpendicular. But you can make all the infill go along the part if you use "infill line directions".
  9. Firstly - most printers can handle the vibrations just fine. It's just the nearby humans that sometimes have a sensitivity. But to answer your question, yes. You can change the infill angle. In cura it's called "infill line directions". You can have them all the same or you can have them at 45/135 (default?) or you can do 3 angles I think every 120 degree rotation? This feature might not work with every type of infill (e.g. gyrloid?). I'm not sure. But I expect it will work with 100% infill.
  10. (Would a particular setting in "Infill Line Directions" deal with this?)
  11. I'm on v4.7.1 and am printing some models that have long sections (±100mm long) where the infill area (@ 100%) is maybe 3-4mm wide. When the infill is printed, even at relatively low infill print speeds (20-30mm/sec), the Cura-output G-Code is printing the infill (Lines) in such a back-and-forth way (crossways to the length of the piece) that the printer essentially vibrates. The area being infilled is perhaps 3mm when the vibration occurs, but can also occur when it's even thinner. Other than perhaps slowing down infill print to a much slower speed, is there any option
  12. Die Print Cores lassen sich eigentlich sehr gut mit dem Reinigungsfilament reinigen. Wenn er arg verstopft ist, muss man das sicher mehrmals machen, aber wenn man wirklich wartet bis er auf die 80° oder was auch immer abgekühlt ist, dann zieht man da schon einiges raus. Wenn man das mehrmals macht, bis die Soitze sauber ist, sollte das ausreichend sein und zerlegen muss man auch nichts.
  13. Danke für eure ausführlichen Beiträge. Ich persönlich finde es Verschwendung, wenn man die Heizung und den Chip usw. mit wegschmeissen muss, weil die Düse verstopft ist. Bei mir ist jetzt schon der 2. Kopf verstopft. Ich habe Ihn nach dem besagten Video zerlegt. Es geht wirklich, mit einer 0,3 mm Nadel von meinem Creality liess es sich unter Hitze reinigen. Mit Pla läuft der Druckkopf wieder gut, aber sobald ich das 1 Jahr alte ABS+ einlege ist wieder alles verstopft. Seltsam.
  14. OK, many thanks, very much looking forward to it.
  15. One more obscure question. The 'new to me' UM3X and its NFC cover parted ways at some point. I know I can buy one, but what fun would that be for a maker? I have the STEP file from Github and Fusion allows me to flatten this in sheet metal mode, so I can cut a new one on the waterjet. My question today is, what material is this? The github reference is greek to me. I am thinking likely powder coated steel. Anyone with specifics? Thanks. John
  16. My Ultimaker S5 is often printing throughout the night, and I have switched off its lights, because they are only rarely needed. I often use the Digital Factory to look at the progress, but whenever I want to use the webcam, I basically can't see anything because both the room and the printer isn't illuminated. It would be really awesome if I could switch on S5's lights remotely via the web interface, so that I can use the camera properly. Is there a way? If yes, please let me know. If not, would it please be possible to include this feature in a new update? Cheers,
  17. Can you tell us a bit more about your setup, which print cores do you use and which material.
  18. Ja Borosilikat ist schon ok, man verwendet dann ja sowieso noch UHU Stick oder dergleichen für die Haftung. Wie gesagt du bist der erste der das berichtet, ich könnte mich jetzt an keinen weiteren Fall erinnern.
  19. You got it! That's perfect! It was indeed a stupid mistake on my part. Thank you so much for your help. best regards, -- mike
  20. Here are the STLs to both of them. Thank you soooooo much for responding. I'm feeling so defeated. I know other people who have the same machine, same settings and they can print it fine! I just replaced the nozzle as well, and put in a new roll of filament. I already like this gray better than the black! Warp-floor_cutout.stl Warp-floor_solid.stl ForMari.3mf
  21. I was hoping that some one could help me with the settings on our Ultimaker S5 please? I want to print some parts off on the engineering profile but whenever I try to it comes up with a message bubble stating " there is no engineering profile for the configuration in extruder 2.the default intent will be used instead" If I need to do some input in to the settings if I could get a "idiots guide" of how to do it please.
  22. Ok... I've spent a couple days experimenting now and there's something going on with Tinker on a specific 3d model I am trying to print. If I go back to the original (latest) UM2+ firmware it prints fine. I now tried slicing with cura 2.5, 4.1 and 4.7 and the results are similar- the print just stops after a while as if it were finished. The same model, sliced waaaaaaay back with an early cura (2.1 I think) still prints. The weird thing is that I went back and redid the model with different topology, made it 100% error free, manifold and watertight but the result is the same. If IS a rather
  23. Ja das ist sehr ärgerlich. Habe mir jetzt nicht das Original von Ultimaker gekauft sondern bei ebay eine aus Borosilikat. Alle Käufer sind davon begeistert. Bin mal gespannt, wie die funktioniert. Ich werde die alte Platte noch etwas "ärgern" vielleicht lässt der Effekt irgendwie erklären. Mich wundert nur, dass ich anscheinend der einzige bin im Forum dem das passiert ist. Ausbrüche und andere Schäden habe ich auch schon gehört. Mein Druck ist ja fast noch "jungfräulich" und da ist das schon heftig. Vielleicht ist es ja ein Fertigungsfehler der sich jetzt erst nach der Garantie bemerkbar mach
  24. Hi, Based off of your most recent pictures it looks like you have a "Prime Tower" touching your model. It prints in the circled area. You can change the X and y position of this so it doesn't touch your model and that should fix it.
  25. Hi, Generell muß man wissen, was man tut, wenn man eine verstopfte Düse ausbauen will. Die Düse ist zwar gedichtet, aber das verflüssigte Filament wurde versucht, mit Druck raus zu drücken. Das funzte nicht. Man kann sich vorstellen, wie sehr die Abdichtung unter Druck stand. Das da etwas ins Gewinde gedrungen sein kann, würde ich mal annehmen. Was macht abkühlendes Filament? Es wird fest und verklebt. Das du da dann das Gewinde abreißt, ist nachvollziehbar, oder? Generell sollte die Düse immer im HEIßEN Zustand demontiert werden! Das sollte die Düse auch beim Festziehen sein. Sons
  26. Ist zwar ärgerlich, aber ja um eine neue Glasplatte wirst du nicht hinweg kommen. Allerdings ist das auch fast schon ein Verschleißteil, du glaubst ja gar nicht wie viele Glasplatten ich schon ruiniert habe, weil Teile ausgebrochen sind, wenn das gedruckte Teil nicht ab geht.
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