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  2. Is there a reason you are still using 3.6? Would suggest retrying with 4.0 and see whether it still occurs. Personally, I doubt that you will still get support for 3.6. Even if someone finds a bug in this release, there will be never an updated version of it, e.g. version 3.6.1. It is normally not intended by Ultimaker to release bugfixes for older versions.
  3. Today
  4. I found out another thing, when I examined the gcode again. I know for that the last time the extruder reversed, the Z position was at 28. At that height, I saw that I have a blank line in my code, and nowhere else (except for the header). In the same block, the extruder value drops from 4158 to 0.04. Is this an error, or not? Here is the piece of code: ;LAYER:278 ;MESH:MotorConnector5.stl G0 X117.716 Y134.017 Z28 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER G1 F2400 X117.535 Y133.977 E4155.08934 G1 X115.269 Y133.493 E4155.11703 G1 X115.269 Y75.746 E4155.83718 G1 X117.816 Y75.746 E4155.86645 G1 X117.716 Y133.831 E4156.59087 G1 X117.716 Y133.832 E4156.59088 G1 X117.816 Y134.021 E4156.59229 G0 F7200 X117.916 Y134.206 G1 F2400 X117.916 Y134.207 E4156.59231 G1 X118.038 Y134.294 E4156.59461 G1 X117.857 Y134.254 E4156.59603 G1 X115.069 Y133.734 E4156.63139 G1 X114.969 Y75.545 E4157.35828 G1 X118.016 Y75.445 E4157.39503 G1 X117.916 Y134.206 E4158.12787 G0 F7200 X118.106 Y134.566 ;TYPE:WALL-OUTER G1 F1200 X114.819 Y133.934 E0.04174 G1 X114.719 Y75.294 E0.77424 G1 X118.266 Y75.194 E0.81724 G1 X118.166 Y134.518 E1.55708 G1 X118.166 Y134.519 E1.55709 G1 X118.288 Y134.607 E1.55941 G1 X118.106 Y134.566 E1.56083 G0 F7200 X117.911 Y134.523 G0 X117.962 Y134.3 G0 X117.777 Y134.032
  5. Hi Smithy Yes, the picture shown is what I export to Cura I redrew the item from scratch and i managed to export properly I think????? the problem was to do with the extrude function and using a 'new body' instead of using the 'join' function??? Its weird because Fusion 360 made the mesh ready for slicing showing the components! Thanks for your interest b
  6. So I started using Cura 3.6 and I came to some problems. Generally I was using my XYZware for printing and all as I have DaVinci printer. But you can still export the g-code and then print with the settings you like and I changed it because in XYZ there are not so many options as there are in Cura. Yet, I happen to have problems with prints and I don't know why. I attached some photos of a 2x2x2cm calibration cube. Using XYZ it prints very well and there are no round corners or anything wrong at all. But when I use Cura, even at exactly the same settings, prints came out like the one in this post. What can I do to make my printer print normally again?
  7. danke habe es dort gefunden 🙂
  8. Stimmt so. Daran hat sich in den Einstellungen nichts geändert.
  9. Is the missing part, combined with the body you export?
  10. Ich hab gerade kein Cura 4 bei der Hand, aber die Einstellung sollte die gleiche sein:
  11. It seems there has appeared a new procedure: to ensure, the lift switch ist in "down" position before rising (and so fitting in the lift switch bay), the print head moves to the backside of the lift switch bay (if it's "up" at that time, this motion will knock it to the "down" position) ?? When moving the lift switch up and down (automatic or manually via the menu options) or doing a lift switch test, does it work right?
  12. Grüße, Ich habe eine Frage zu Cura Version 4.0.0 Bei einem Bekannten habe ich die Version neu installiert der hatte vorher kein Cura, bei Ihm ist es so das der nicht Auto nach jeder einstellung Slicen tut... erst wenn er auf Slice drückt macht er das. Das hätte ich auch gerne so, weil er jedes mal wenn man zum beispiel einen Struktur Blocker einbauen möchte wie wild anfängt zu slicen. Finde aber die einstellung nicht kann jemand helfen ?!? Danke
  13. I started having this problem with my UM3E+ after the latest updates. What should I do?
  14. Hello, can you tell me your experience with the S5 + S3D? I was a fan of S3D, in the tinkering time, now i am all into the automatic workflow of Cura, but is miss some features, the speed and the interface of S3D. I just downloaded the latest verzion, but already, i see that by default the mix up the extruders (left PVA + right PLA), not like it is standard used on the S5. Many thanks, for your input 😉
  15. I'm working with FreeCAD-dailybuilds. Is there another possibility to get working the plugin than installing the stable version of FreeCAD?
  16. There is a way to print in the order you want and its pretty simple in cura. All you have to do place the items closest to the "scan line" and it will print in that order. Let me explain: Cura basically "scans" your bed from left to right. Whenever the "scan line" touches an object it gets recorded to be printed 1st. To print the second object just move it 0.1 mm to the right from the first object and it will get printed second no matter where on the bed it is.
  17. There is a way to print in the order you want and its pretty simple in cura. All you have to do place the items closest to the "scan line" and it will print in that order. Let me explain: Cura basically "scans" your bed from left to right. Whenever the "scan line" touches an object it gets recorded to be printed 1st. To print the second object just move it 0.1 mm to the right from the first object and it will get printed second no matter where on the bed it is.
  18. Gotta love Ultimaker. I easily made the adjustment. Here is a video of the one I am selling before and after adjustment. Totally easy just as this video from the North America Ultimaker Help Desk says it should be:
  19. Hi not sure if this is the right place to ask this question but... Ive drawn an object in Fusion 360, sent it to Cura 4.0 (they dont talk like 3.2.1 used to) The slice resulted in some important features of the build missing altogether??? How does that happen? Fusion shows the object as I drew it, the sliced version has missing parts Cgeers n
  20. Bonjour à tous, Donc voilà, je comprends pas pourquoi quand j'ouvre un fichier pris sur Thingiverse, l'objet devient énorme avec des dimensions qui passent de genre 20mm normalement à 2000mm? à chaque fois je dois redimensionner et c'est pas toujours facile de retrouver les dimensions exactes quand la dimenion qui m'intéresse se trouve à l'intérieur de la pièce (je débute vraiment) et ca le fait aussi quand j'ouvre un fichier avec Cura depuis fusion 360... Merci d'avance
  21. Yesterday
  22. No problem. At the moment I'm about to correct an issue around the conversion process in the plugin, too. You probably noticed issues with that already. Feel free to join the general discussion all around the plugin here:
  23. @RobyRob You can find the macro (Python script) for the conversion inside the plugin here: https://thopiekar.eu:5443/cura-cad-integration/CuraFreeCadPlugin/blob/master-updating-conversion-script/CuraFreeCADPlugin/scripts/convertIntoSTL.py This is the one I use in the latest unreleased package. As far as I understand, after opening the file I should be able to get the active object via native_file.ActiveObject, no? So the differences you probably see, is that you have unsaved changes. The plugin runs FreeCAD and the mentioned macro in the background. It doesn't know anything about the unsaved changes someone made inside FreeCAD's window at the moment.
  24. I promised myself I wouldn't get into gcode or writing 3d printing tools, but then I always promise myself I won't get carried away writing "little" tools for games... After several days trying to get the print bed low enough that material *would* come out of the nozzle, a thought occurred to me: Is there a good reason to print a blob on the plate instead of purging the nozzle off the edge of the bed and wiping it? I realize you don't want to smack the delicate nozzle on the something hard and potentially sharp, especially not while it's hot. But isn't there a way to access the auto-level sensor through g-code so that a plugin could look for the edge of the bed and thus carefully move past it, purge, and then wipe the nozzle on the edge of the build pate?
  25. OH. MY. GOD. I want to cry 😞 I was literally in the process of putting my UM 3 back in the box earlier this week after feeling so utterly betrayed when the printer started behaving like any-old $140 printer. But the real issue was I'd gotten *so* delighted with it, that to speed up my printing cycle, I had flipped the glass over to start a print on the other side. The first print had gone fine, and I forgot. But after that the printer went to absolute crap. The next print failed to adhere Colorfabb nGen, but not on the first few layers like you'd like. The result was a huge nasty blob of ngen which utterly covered both printcores(*). I couldn't get Printcore 1 off so I followed a guide to strip down the print head. I got most of the ngen off both heads, I survived re-assembly of the printhead with only stupid derps (I put all the power connectors back in r-to-l instead of l-to-r). But then I couldn't get any adhesion. I couldn't print the x/y calibration because either the head was too close and nothing came out, or the calibration just wouldn't stick and wound up wrapped around the print core (causing those little white pad things on the bottom of the print head to get sucked into a ball of filament while I was waiting for it to calibrate). I spent literal days messing with settings. When I did find settings that worked on the first layer, things went back to crap the instant I tried a real print - I think cura tries to wipe the nozzle on the prime blob, which used to work with the same temp/ultimaker filament but now routinely just drags the blob into the print; brim and raft are welded so tightly to the model I have to try and design them into the print because they're not coming off... The only thing I didn't think to try was to flip the god damn bed over. Fortunately, buildtak seems to have come to my rescue. But ... this is something you need to get to your users! Is there a way to permanently stain the bed? My sticker came off as I was inserting it into the printer the first time and then permanently the first time I cleaned the bed. (* They *touch wood* seem to be working now ... but there's definitely some evidence of deterioration :()
  26. See my reply here: - Make sure you check the print core, under those soft-white tabs ... and on the back of the heating element, make sure you don't have gunk; - Don't mix manual and auto; - "Some resistance" is a really terrible description of what you are looking for 😞
  27. I've just gotten done recovering with leveling issues on my UM3, my core findings being this: - Glue, even fingerprints on the bed, can affect the leveling results, - There are little soft-material covers by the print head. They're not solid, and material can get pushed up behind them. Take your printcores out and give them a thorough inspection, as this can throw leveling, - When I added a buildtak flex bed, I didn't realize just how much it would throw leveling, or that it would render auto-leveling useless, - Manual level OR auto level, don't expect both to work The auto leveling seems to have certain limitations that go out of whack the instant you touch any of the screws. There also seem to be several bugs in the manual leveling process. In order to successfully level my printer, I totally ignored the display and did my own thing, because so many of the prompts were unhelpful (and the lack of a "go back" or "cancel" option is totally frigging annoying with the U3s oops-I-dialed-when-you-clicked dial). I would recommend you do a fresh manual level: Start by turning all of the screws to make sure they don't feel super loose - don't over-tighten them either. I changed mine from being so lose I could brush one finger tip past and turn them to where I don't need to grip them but I need a fingertip on both sides for them to turn. Next, run the manual level and for the "1mm away" step, use something like a credit card. I used an old one and made sure that the raised print fit under the nozzle. No accuracy is really required for this step but I found it helped if all 3 checks were about the same height. For the calibration card check: my leveling had resulted in the nozzle being so low that nothing came out. So, I replaced the calibration card with a thin sheet of card, about double+ the thickness of the calibration card. This had several advantages, not least being that its flat without requiring any pressure which might invalidate the calibration. When you do this, you're not looking to feel like the card is being caught on the nozzle. You should be sweeping the card/sheet back and forth and then adjusting until you can *just* barely tell that there might be contact with the card. I found this so hard to judge that what I actually did was reach the original point I considered "a little resistance" and then give the screw a 1/16th turn in the opposite direction, which put me at a place that ever-so barely felt a little different than moving the card away from the nozzle. Then I did a fairly simple test print of a single-layer circular face with a rectangular cut-out in the middle (15mm diameter, 8x5 rectangle). I still ultimately wound up making a couple tiny screw adjustments, but I also discovered that running an autolevel after this made things worse again, so I repeated the manual level and I've been getting great prints again. I'm about to apply GR5's tip on setting "Combing Mode" to "not in skin" in the hopes I stop getting horrible, messed up first/top layers.
  28. That is correct. In the object tree (where you see all steps, which have been done to build your body) you will see the active object in bold letters. Normally, this is the state which you can see in the 3D view at the same time. So what you see after opening FreeCAD, should be what you get in Cura. 🙂
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